idosubaru

NOTE - this is a very old bumped thread

$450 was about the going rate. i guess you know, but messing with the front diff is nothing to take lightly either. there are preloads, back lash, bearings, and measurements to be set. a little off and things wear out very quickly. someone more knowledgeable can help.

i've searched but everything i've seen is wagon related swaps. I want to install 99 OBW struts from a board member on a friends 1997 Legacy sedan. They do not come with front springs/coils, so I'll have to get those. Any recommendations on keeping the car level? I'm thinking SUS springs since that's a sedan. Hopefully the rears aren't too different?

that sounds pretty bad, i've only ever seen one that bad and it was a turbo that completely self destructed. gaskets blown to pieces, oil everywhere, even in the MAF and the MAF screen was torn as well. i didn't bother with it, i replaced the engine. you might want to start a new thread about burnt oil smell? some of the more knowledgeable folks might have some comments on that. i'm from the DC area where prices are about like you're going to see then. they charge a minimum one hour/$50-$75 for anything. this place out here has actually billed me for exactly $12 for one head, bizarre. and it's a full on NAPA place that does the work for the local Subaru dealer. they just don't warranty their work if you only mill the head without pressure testing it...ooohhhhh.

SHHHH!!!!! this is not the time to cut into automotive manufacturers profits!!!!! i replaced a rear bearing on my legacy this summer and it's still growling back there, not loud, but noticeable. my wife can't even tell she says something funny like "well i'm so used to all the noises your XT6 makes, this seems like outer space". so it's either the tire (never checked, but they are very low mileage) or the hub/bearing is out of whack. if it's not the tire the next step will be installing another hub or living with it.

doesn't work on gen2? what's the difference? i have a friend that was talking about getting a lift kit for his legacy i got him a couple months back.

sorry to prompt another option, but with all the unknowns it's hard to know which is best for you. if you have time, you could gasket slap it and see how it runs/compression tests. you'd only pay for the gaskets and motor might run great. there's some notes on USMB about prepping heads yourself. if you live in a really inexpensive area like i do a simple head mill might be cheap, my local shop charges $12, which almost freaks me out! i've gasket-slapped a few cars without doing anything to the heads. not my recommendation, but sometimes friends just don't have the cash (which i why i'm doing the jobs free!). and they held.

yeah, drew they are out there and available for the automatic and manual transmissions. that thread linked above is a great read. you're talking $300-$600 for the part plus installation. you'll also want to decide what kind you want - clutch type, viscous or other. VLSD's are virtually useless for offroad and nasty traction. i looked into this, the reason i didn't go for it though is because i never got a warm fuzzy about the reliability of them. i did some searching and found them failing. of course i don't know if that's from abuse, poor installation, that's just what i found or what, but i wasn't about to dump that kind of effort into something less reliable. particularly something that tricky to replace.

i guess this has already been asked, but is the hub identical? i'm wondering if it's a different hub that's offset a bit more or something? not that i can think of what hub would do that though. and you're sure it's just not the axle being compressed? this is really strange for sure. after market axles are junk, you're best to go with MWE, Subaru used with new boots, or Subaru new. avoid others like the plague. just do a search here and you'll see thread after thread about new axles going bad, causing problems, being junk right out of the box, and even exploding in 10 miles after installation. over and over, after market axles are junk. not to discount experience with NAPA stuff, but my guess is the "N", i.e. sampling size and mileage, just isn't big enough to show it yet.

that would mean the corollary is true - that you can add any amount of weight to the crank pulley (200 pound crank pulley) without effecting performance at all. that isn't true either. now, the effects may be small and he may have worded it improperly, but it does affect something.

i'm wondering if part of this is kind of like the noise after an engine build? maybe the trans just needs to run a bit to get all the air out of the system and get fluid running properly through all the nooks and crannies? kind of like engines being really noisy after a rebuild? that's what it sounds like. no kidding, the gen 1 stuff is aluminum? that's good to know, i've never actually worked on the first gen EJ stuff. is that a curly pube or a straight one, that might make a big difference?

i don't think there's a way to verify the condition of the bearings for the long haul. if they're not making any noises now then there's not much you can do except hope and change that oil like a champ. a leak down test might show signs of ring wear if the head gaskets aren't too horribly blown. i'd attempt two things first. i'd try and talk to the person you bought it from and find out how many miles this thing was driven like this and how long it was driven overheated. let them know they're doing you a favor on the rebuild by telling you the truth. the second thing i'd do is price out EJ22's. it's not terribly difficult to pick up good, low mileage EJ22's for really cheap. a proper head gasket job is going to cost $300 probably for machine shop work and parts. deck the heads, pressure test, and valve job. i think i'd be able to find an engine for less than that around my area. i'd rather have a known good, previously running engine than one that's been overheated and is questionable. also - the EJ22 head gaskets are easily done in the car if that matters to you at all. good luck.

right, that's unlikely to solve this issue. i was only recommending cleaning it as prevenative maintenance if you were going to do the same to the IAC. are you still getting a code 35 from the ECU? even after replacing those parts?

the fan motors actually don't fail all that often, very rare really. best to just get a used one, they're super cheap. someone on here would likely even have an extra one (i probably do for instance). new would be like burning cash. you could try and crack the motor open and just clean it and replace brushes, but i've never heard of anyone doing that. or have an electrical shop do that for you (any place that does starters, alternators or any other electric motor rebuilding). the Legacy is a New Generation vehicle, so that's the forum you'd want to post in for this car. good luck!

the AIC's or idle control valves typically don't need replaced, they need cleaned. a used one might be worse than the existing one since it's been sitting around for who knows how long and in who knows what condition. generally idle control valves very rarely fail, they just need a good cleaning. buying new is flushing green backs down the toilet. while you're in the cleaning mode, clean the EGR valve as well. might want to have a new gasket handy to do that. make sure no vacuum hoses get left unseated, cracked or bumped off. replace the PCV valve? over all tune - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, mileage?

not sure on the earlier EJ22's. i think some of the pulleys/tensioners are different but not sure. timing belt and water pump i believe are the same though.

did you check the timing belt? the quick cheezeball fuel test i do is to just pull the fuel line off the fuel filter in the engine bay and turn the key over. if fuel comes out, your engine has fuel at least. could be low but i'm used to seeing far more pumps that don't work than ones that have low output.

take your seafoam and set it on the ground. then dance around it while chanting incomprehensible grunts. then rub it on your belly and pour it in your oil......okay for real this time: buy seafoam - follow directions on the bottle. which are to pour the can in the engine oil.

any 1996-1998 EJ22 will work. legacy, impreza, auto or manual. an EJ22 from a 1995 automatic will work as well but you'll have to also swap the exhaust manifold (easy, because you have to unbolt it anyway to remove engine). i've owned one 1998 OBS auto that didn't have EGR on it at all, but that's really weird. so if you can, just check to make sure the new engine has EGR because yours will. 15 years ago or so i overheated my first subaru until it wouldn't run any more. it was running hot but i didn't know/care and just kept driving it. got to the point it had no power and had to down shift to 4th, 3rd...then 1st....which i kept driving it and it just died. ended up replacing the water pump and driving it for a long time after that, though it did start loosing coolant a couple years later. knowing what i know now i would assume that car was dead and probably wouldn't believe my own story.

there's another thread similar to this. i've done crazier things with my car but as far as hauling goes. in an XT6 (2 door) i've had: 5 deer (trunk wouldn't close, i have pictures) a 20 foot ladder like 5 foot in the car and 15 out for 200+ miles. (got pulled over for that one, though he let me continue on) an EJ engine and transmission at the same time "in" the trunk - meaning the engine was basically sitting on the trunk lips and strapped in place. the "self leveling" air suspension didn't hold up to that one. 2 squares of siding and my wife for 300 miles (she's awesome)! guys told me i needed to bring back a truck, i said no it'll work. had to hand load every piece but it made it.

foaming = bad. i'm not a trans expert but probably problems with the oil pump or seating the ATF "filter"/pick up tube going into the trans. i assume you installed a new "filter" and new oring?

No - 1999 or 2000 (depending on which model) is the beginning of Phase II engines.

i don't know crap about your car connie but what i've done in the past is just switch them around if they're the same relays (often times are). often the fan relay may be identical to the a/c relay or something like that, so swap em out. or even just tapping them, they can stick like a starter and some kindly taps might get them working again. of course if they're hard to access none of this helps. good luck.

how nice of you to help jeff out, the way he's always needing help pushing his car after a blown hole in the block, burnt clutch, lost second, grenaded trans....etc..... he'll appreciate you looking out for him! my post count is longer than yours GD! eleven thousand ten nine thousand two hundred fifty six

yes, i use the ebay kits almost every time. it's not impossible for those pulleys to be from the OEM manufacturer, keeping in mind Subaru does not make pulleys. anyone know for sure out of curiosity? I'm still using them either way, but would be interesting to know. i won't pay those amounts to Subaru and the friends and family cars i maintain aren't interested in all of that cost either. so, i'd rather have all new pulleys and tensioner rather than replace only the ones that seem noisy or rough now and hope the others make it to 210,000 miles.