idosubaru

definitely not OEM...OEM is probably just a rebranded Bosch or something anyway. you can probably search of oxygen sensor on here and get some recommendations. carb's suck, i feel your pain and would bet your problem lies there as well. i never touch carbs...i just keep running them until i can't. hate 'em....admittedly due to my own ignorance.

the HC is not definitive. i've seen EJ25 headgasket failures that pass this test. it has stumped more than one mechanic. of course a positive reading is bad...but a negative does not mean your head gaskets are good.

she's looking at the same information as the rest of them, it was never entered at the time of sale. that's not all that surprising that they won't update that information. there's any number of explanations from software to company regulations. the addage "stupid rules come from stupid people" probably applies. all it takes is someone changing or manipulating one thing to change company procedures. write it down in a few places and store it on your computer, email yourself, wallet...there's better options than relying on the dealer. they have limited hours and then your key code is technically available to anyone. i've walked in with no proof of anything and they've cut a key for me before...even for cars that weren't technically mine yet. not that anything would really happen, but there's really no added value from the dealer having the code.

Thanks, does the FSM specify which pin is the AT/MT identifier? I have a 95 FSM if it does.

in 1995 the part number for the ECU is: 22611 AB414 but there are two different engine configurations: with EGR and without. how does that work? shouldn't there be one ECU for EGR engines and one without? or can the ECU tell which it is and compensate?

EA/ER series O2 sensors are $20 at Advanced auto parts. Get the universal fit O2 sensor, very simple. Maybe your car is different and that's why no one has mentioned it yet?

you guys are right, the simplest method is to pull the entire axle out. i'll have another axle already disassembled and ready to go. pulling the rear diff...i don't think i ever have on an EJ. i've already got the driveshaft and protector plate removed. i'm not reinstalling it so once it's off i'm done at least.

is that why you fled town the day before i got down to TN last month!?!??! i'm born and raised in MD, which is south of the mason dixon line. go to the northeast and there's plenty of rudeness to go around, i guess it's not appropriate to say here but between you and me going northeast of Philly is something I try to avoid at all costs. of course i'm close and know that my attitude isn't as southern as i wish. i lived in Georgia for 8 years in college and while my experience in maryland was exceptional growing up in rural farm land i can still tell you from living so close to the northeast that the difference in people is very noticeable....keeping in mind there are huge individual variations here - this is just a gross, unfair generalization. to quote a friend that came to visit me in south Georgia "are these people for real?" if my family wasn't all from maryland i'd live in Georgia, my experience there can not be put into words.

sometimes the FWD cover is warn/dirty and not readable or even broken off. but it's right where he said and he makes the good point that it's very small, just a small black square big enough for one fuse - unmistakable once you see it. i've seen some not bolted up either....like just dangling, but it'll be adjacent to the passengers side strut tower no matter what.

no problem bill. you could post in the parts wanted forum and see if anyone has anything. if EA82 calipers work and i happen to have one it's yours for free. which side is it - although i don't think i still have them.

top notch. check out the vendor review forums as well. they stand behind their products, i've got them in a few subaru's. basically any aftermarket is a hit-or-miss affair and Subaru is waaay too expensive, so they really are the only good option for new axles. what you need to ask is how many people have had poor quality axles from auto parts stores....leaking boots, noisey, bad vibrations, broken after ONE WEEK...yeah don't get us started on how bad axles suck. it's really silly to look anywhere else. the only down side is shipping them and waiting, but well worth it to have something quality.

i see, that stinks. odd that it would be consuming that much oil at this age but there's always a bad nut in the batch. just to be informative in case you change your mind: you can get a used EJ engine installed for $1,000 or less. probably a trans too. EJ engines and trans are cheap - low demand. i bought an engine and trans for $300 last fall, both with 100k and warranties. i would bet you could get both for $500 and have it installed for $1,000 - $1,500. FWD mode will not kill the car, listen to someone with extensive experience in the subject, not arm chair people talking theory. i've driven auto's and manuals for extended periods of time like this (currently have one now). i know plenty of others that have as well, you won't find a statistically viable amount of people that have actually had problems with it. i doubt you'll find any and if you do it likely was caused by something else.

definitive thread on rebuilding the caliper in what way? definitive about what? i'm familiar with EA82 stuff, not sure about EA81. but on the EA82's it's very simple. remove caliper and keep pressing the brake pedal until the piston pushes all the way out. have a bucket handy as lots of fluid comes out too. piston will probably be caught by the boot if there's enough of it left. remove boots and piston and take note of the clips holding the boot in place. real simple. it's really easy. clean everything up, make sure the piston/caliper bore isn't damaged beyond repair and reinstall. there's just one seal around the piston, slide it back in and start compressing it (requires turning while pushing in). then install the boot and clip. that's it - one rubber seal, a boot and clip. very easy. good luck brokebill! Gary

i'd plan on enjoying more car-payment free living if i were you. that's a good car and with some solid maintenance should be good for another 100,00. most of the items you mentioned are rather minor, typical maintenance items and could be addressed over time and some yourself possibly. oil leaks are very common and not terribly difficult to address - a few seals behind the timing belt and the valve covers. worst case is maybe the valve seals are leaking? engine consumption is rare on these blocks. it's unlikely you need engine replacement. this is probably a good topic for a dedicated thread, helping you figure that out. the rear transfer clutches aren't necessarily the end of the world either. that can be fixed without removing the trans. you also have the option of driving it in FWD mode. not a bad move really to avoid payments or a large repair bill. not too mention if you really need good snow traction then snow tires are the way to go anyway. otherwise the H6 is a great motor. EJ25 head gaskets have been beat to death a zillion times, search and read up there are no definitive or conclusive answers to "when" "why" "how" on those. the later the better - 1996-2003 certainly have issues.

really - did it have the plug for the switches under the console? i don't have a plug under the console but i have not checked under the seats yet.

sorry - i'm not swapping axles here. this is new and different that what anyone else does. i converted an AWD to FWD. so i don't need the rear drivetrain parts any more. i just need the outer CV cup to remain in the hub. i'm pretty sure this can be done without removing the axles though. i'm sure there's a way to just knock a clip out...(or whatever holds that CV joint onto the axle) and remove the axle without ever undoing the axle nut or removing it from the hub. this would remove the axle but leave the outer cup in the hub. in other words - can i disassemble the axle while it's hanging from the rear hub?

i've heard of some EJ22's getting piston slap. at that mileage though a valve adjustment is not a bad idea. my EJ22 with 120,000 miles seems to do the same thing, but i haven't really looked into it yet. i'll start with a valve adjustment since that's something that should be done anyway. it's very minor so i'm not that worried about it and the wife doesn't even notice unless i point it out and it's her car.

cheap pads wear fast, but that's too fast. i've rebuilt a number of subaru calipers, it's very easy to do. i say go for it. they're so cheap that i like to go ahead and order two sets in case i accidentally rip the seal or boot (did that once). but of course if you're trying to save money that's not a good plan. if the caliper is causing these issues and noises, it may not be rebuildable. depends how scored, rusted and pitted the caliper bores are. might want to find a used one suitable to rebuild and then it'll be swappable outright with no down time? if i had an EA82 caliper i'd send it to you for cost of shipping but i think i tossed them in the trash. try a post in the parts wanted forum?

that's an interference engine and needs the timing belt replaced immediately. check for torque bind. (you can search here for descriptions, testing) the tapping is piston slap or valve noise - piston slap goes away or gets quieter when warm, is not uncommon and doesn't cause any issues. valves may need adjusted. this should be a phase II EJ25, the plus side to those is that when the head gaskets start leaking they leak externally, don't overheat (unless you let the coolant get way low) and generally can be driven for a very long time like that. Subaru adds a coolant conditioner to all Phase II EJ25's - i'd be sure to do a coolant change and add that conditioner. if you have thoughts of keeping your loyale - that might not be a terrible option. the oil seals that are leaking are probably right behind the timing belt...which you'll have to change on the new car anyway - so you're not really saving any labor there. the other common leak is the valve covers...and those only take a few minutes to replace. and with 125,000 miles it probably needs the ATF flushed, PCV valve, fuel filter, timing belts, spark plugs, ignition wires and diff fluids replaced...and the brakes will be in various states as well, as will be the CV boots, radiator hoses, clamps...etc. if your loyale is running decent you might not save much in maintenance and costs that way. but you will be getting a much larger, nicer, and safer vehicle.

awesome, good suggestion! i will definitely make sure i have that out when i go to do it. but the rear diff has to come off too so in this instance it might be just as easy to disconnect it since i have to at some point anyway.

i have a rear diff and axles on a FWD vehicle. if i drop the rear diff and remove the axles is there anyway to remove the axle from the hub side without removing the wheel - like disassemble the CV joint while it's on the car and leave the end still in the hub? cause i still need to leave that end in there anyway. make sense? keeping in mind...this is coming from a guy who has never disassembled a CV before. i can't get my finger nails dirty so i always replace them.

i think he means an Impreza Outback Sport, solidified by the comment "i don't even think they had that option". was there even a Legacy Outback Sedan offered in 96? i didn't think that was until later. that cars101 site would probably answer some of these questions.

ah that sucks - sometimes you can essentially "buy it back" and not even deal with the salvage title thing. they just incorporate it into the deal and the title never really gets transfered to anyone...just stays with you. too bad you couldn't have pulled that off. nah, i don't have a clue where that thread would be. it's only a year..."mabye" two old, seems like it was last summer?

great info and pic porcupine. is that the part that causes the shifting delays? this should be a dedicated thread if there isn't one already existing. i searched and asked about this about a year ago and no one knew exactly what the cause was.

dude that's awesome - i've got like 10 motors/transmissions....you use one dolly per engine? i need those, i'd rather keep the work outs to funner things!