idosubaru

i'd use heat and the poundthecrapoutofasocket method paul mentioned. in this case though you'll need to heat and then let it cool, just trying to break it loose. expanding the bolt won't help it come out in the way you typically use heat - trying to break it loose while it's hot. don't do that here. just heat and let it cool back down. chisel/grind/drill the head off, but that shouldn't be necessary.

i'd call some glass shops, some specialize in auto glass and can install lots of things. they can be very cheap too, at least in my limited experience they were. i've never had to do a sunroof but it's worth a couple phone calls....if they can't get the glass ask a few if they have experience and will install a used one for you if you buy it. i'd be tempted to do it myself...sounds reasonable, but i know nothing about them so ignorance is bliss you know. can't be that hard to find one in a yard...just needs to be close i guess since shipping is probably risky.

for the most part it's not worth it. very minimal gains to be had. turbo's can create significant gains with simple modifications, but NA cars can not. if you're still wanting to do it - then just go by some intake, exhaust and whatever stuff you want on the car and put them on. it won't matter too much what you do really. the EJ22 isn't that difficult to turbo....but that's another can of worms. your best bet is probably nasioc for stuff like this.

OH MY! you just made this even more confusing. i didn't even consider that. if the wiring is different...then how do people get away with swapping 95 EJ22's into later models but retaining the later models different O2 sensors and later model wiring? i suppose the answer is simple and the ECU sees only what it needs to but man that seems like unnecessary complication.

the life of a subaru hobbyist means dealing with stripped aluminum bolts holes! the first and easiest step is to clean the threads out with a tap and install a longer bolt. don't go with a bigger bolt, start with just a longer bolt of the same thread pitch. the holes are typically drilled and tapped deeper than the original bolts in them. so a longer bolt reaches new and unused threads at the bottom of the hole. be careful, if the bolt is too long and bottoms out, just put some washers under the head to space it out. i like the chase the threads in the hole and the threads on the longer bolt just to be sure it threads perfectly smooth and grabs tight. this works most of the time. otherwise helicoil isn't that hard really. but you have a few options if that first one doesn't work (but i've gotten it to work quite a bit).

on one hand i'm with the take it easy notion, but then again i'd be tempted to push it to see what that knocking was. if you're dumping $1,000+ into head gaskets you're expecting it to take subtantial shifting, driving, and regular duties into the future. if you have bearings going out i'd hate to spend all that cash on headgaskets only to last a year. depending which bearings it is (main or rod) it will get progressively worse or could stay relatively the same. maybe some engine guru's can offer suggestions on checking internal bearing condition? maybe it's jumping the gun but you are describing a knocking noise.

WHAT?!?! i'm totally confused. In 1995 the Legacy EJ22 has the same O2 sensors front and back: 22690AA220 But the 1995 Impreza EJ22 has different O2 sensors listed front and back: 22690AA220 FRONT 22690AA640 REAR I know that people swap these motors all the time...including ECU's and such. So if you're running a 95 ECU in a swapped car...which do you go with? It's also odd that 97 Imp EJ22 front O2's are the same part numbers as 97 Legacy rear O2's...and there was no EJ22/EJ25 legacy distinction.

check out my notes above, that's not always the case. easily interchangeable with very simple issues though.

yes it'll drop right in and bolt right up. some notes below: there are some minor issues. the EJ22's usually have single port heads and the EJ18 has dual port heads (don't know if there are any single port EJ18's but i've never seen one). 95 automatic EJ22's are the only ones with dual port exhausts and EGR. if you use a single port exhaust EJ22, that's no big deal, you can just swap an EJ22 exhaust manifold with it as well. that opens up your options to 95 automatics and 96+ EJ22's. and maybe even early EJ22's, but i'm not as familiar with those. or you can ignore the EGR issue (i hate the EGR system anyway, it's like installing and increasing unreliability - so i intentionally install blocks without EGR or remove the EGR altogether). so you'll need to decide what you want....retain the EGR, or not? the easy way is to install the EJ18 intake manifold to the EJ22 block, it bolts right on then retains all your original wiring and plugs right in - plug and play. personally the EJ18 intake manifold is an ugly beast and it would be nice to swap the EJ18 wiring harness onto an EJ22 intake manifold, since those are much simpler and cleaner. but i don't know if that's possible, i have gone the opposite direction and end up with a clean EJ22 manifold anyway. EJ18's don't have a knock sensor and the EJ22 will. since you're installing in an EJ18 vehicle that doesn't mean anything except you'll have an unused knock sensor in the top of the block. leave it or remove it, you can't use it. the Ej18 will also have a bizarre contraption on the passengers side exhaust port in the head. there's a pipe that's bolted to a hole in the head there. the EJ22 will not have this port (well, maybe some really early one's do, but i've never seen it). so there's no place to install this EJ18 contraption. there does not appear to be any sensors associated with it (like the EGR has) so it seems like you can just remove it. i've removed it on my swaps and block that EJ18 port off, but i'm going the opposite way and an EJ22/EJ25 vehicle doesnt' have this set up anyway, so it's a no brainer.

i think my solution is to just take a set of hubs into a machine shop and let them do it. i've seen quotes of $400 - $800 for both side wheel bearings. and $50 - $85 for a shop to press them in. i have an extra legacy i can pull hubs from so i can have them ready to go. i've seen spare hubs for $40-$60 each, so buying those seems like a reasonable option as well. i was going to do that until i realized i have a spare legacy, duh!

Baffled: 1997 Impreza O2 sensor: 22690AA220 1997 Legacy O2 sensor: Front: 22690AA290 Rear: 22690AA220 I'm confused in a number of ways. First, does the Impreza only have one O2 sensor? And is the Impreza front sensor the same part number as the rear Legacy sensor?

Looks like 2003 Impreza and 1997 Legacy rear hub assemblies/knuckles (entire hub, bearings, housing assembly) are interchangeable? Does that mean the rear bearings and seals are all the same?

i'm hesitant to do this...mostly acting like an old dog that can't learn new tricks. i need to do rear bearings in my legacy but bearings seem difficult. how/where do i press them? how hard is it to pack them properly and resinstall them to the right depth or alignment or whatever? i do have the FSM's, so i suppose that's a good start. i'll need a hub tamer to make this simple? bearing and grease recommendations? i should use Subaru updated roller bearings in the rear? Am I wrong in making the "observation" that it seems like a fair number of EJ vehicles need wheel bearing work? seems like i see more wheel bearing stuff on the new gen than old gen?

is that 4WD? sedan or wagon? i've heard the FWD's can get close to 40 on all highway miles?

EJ25 head gaskets are strange, they do not fail like other..even other subaru...head gaskets. i've worked on and diagnosed a number of EJ25's and having them overheat one trip, run fine for a few trips, then over heat is no big deal. most motors don't do this...but the EJ25 will. i've seen it and others here have too. so don't think it's weird. it will progressively get worse if it's the head gasket. but...there are other components that could fail. it would be odd for a water pump to fail on you at that low mileage and age but it is possible. so hopefully the shop can diagnose. in general the head gasket is more likely statistically to be bad than the water pump - but who wants to gamble with $1,000 - be sure to thoroughly check things out. at only 115,000 miles you still have a great car with plenty of miles. diagnose and fix it properly and you should be golden. the "noise" you heard is very odd and troublind. that's bad to run that low on oil but you still had 2 or 3 quarts in there, so it should not have damaged it. but the noise you heard is scary. bearing issues/internal block issues are bad...so test carefully and keep your ears peeled. but the noise may have been something timing belt related - timing pulleys, tensioner or water pump. they probably need to be inspected and will have to come off for a water pump or head gasket job anyway.

i'm up for buying a wrecked one and dropping the diesel in an XT or something. so it'll be a few years out for me. 52 hp...wowsers, i think i'd rather have a ride in your car than an STi, that would be an interesting and hard to come by experience. seriously.

high idle - no big deal. probably just the IAC needs cleaned. $1.00 of carb or brake cleaner should fix that. very common. boots cracked and not clicking. if you want to be cheap just replace the boots. even if they start clicking in a year or so they'll be fine, won't fail, and shouldn't get noisy for a very long time. or spend the $200 for MWE axles (after markets suck). power steering pump probably needs brushes. they're only $20, most common power steering issue. could be low on fluid and need new fluid. that's about $20-$30 a quart for the cybrid fluid. replace the one hose and clamps before you do, so you don't risk loosing that expensive fluid over a $4 hose and clamp. i also don't see the blue power steering recall wire, but maybe it's just not showing the pictures. no big deal, but Subaru had a recall for the power steering system that required running a blue wire from a harness by the drivers side strut mount in the engine bay over towards the power controller and pump. might just be hiding. the rust will be the biggest issue. without crawling under it there's no way to tell how bad the main structure is. rotted fenders are unfortunately normal around here and don't really tell you anything about the main structural components. if it's not overheating, loosing lots of oil, runs and drives good, the rust isn't terrible, and the clutch isn't bad it's a great $500 car. and of course join us on the subaru forums at subaruxt.com!

there aren't any easy answers to your questions. so you're really asking us to write essays on all your possible options. i'd spend some more time searching. this really isn't a simple answer...check out the USRM as well. right now i see the USRM acronym on the screen, top right corner in the blue banner at the top. click on it and read up about 5 lug conversions...and brat information. and most of the experience on this board is EA82 related....brat information, being EA81 is even harder to come by. i know nothing about brats. i don't think XT6 stuff was offered over there either, i've sent at least one...if not two sets of 5 lug conversion stuff to Norway.

CCR doesn't make them, although they are right next door, they give MWE space on their website. grab MWE's phone number from the site and call him.

if it's banged up like you say then i'd probably go the EJ18 route. you already have the motor and it'll drop right in.

yes come to think of it - the 2" difference is too much, more than the difference i'm referring too. so yes one isn't extended, or the other isn't compressed enough. the axle probably will work. sometimes new axles are very tight and hard to move though, so work it around and i bet it drops right in. strange that a mechanic messed this up, you'd think he's familiar with the play in CV axles.

older stuff i believe goes around $200-$500, my comment was a general subaru comment....for newer stuff i go with Subaru (because you can get really new EJ axles for $30). for older stuff i'd go with MWE. but another option if you want to fool with it is to get a used Subaru axle and install new boots on it, or install new boots when the old ones break. i don't do axle work, it's not worth my time, so i just buy from MWE.

perfect timning. this came up on another forum in a different way but it seems there are different length EJ axles. so far our best guess from the XT forums is that FWD EJ front axles are a tad shorter - and i believe this is even spelled out in the FSM's. but i'm not sure how they could be. someone mentioned they seem to remember the FWD axles actually being thicker as well...so if yours appear to have that characteristic??? i just installed a FWD EJ22 transmission in an originally AWD vehicle and used the original AWD axles. maybe the hub side is where the difference is though???

1997 Impreza OBS EJ22 automatic - all stock, synthetic oil. 24-27 highway that might not make a difference. maybe it's vehicle/model dependent but i've found that empty or loaded (couple/few hundred pounds even) an XT6 or impreza OBS gets the same highway mileage.

do a search for new axles that are bad....there's dozens of posts...it's almost a bi-weekly event now that someone buys an aftermarket axle and it has problems. there's been plenty of problems with NAPA axles too....so research if you decide to go that way, maybe there's certain brands better than others. axle quality sucks bad, it's not worth my time so i stick with MWE or Subaru axles only.