idosubaru

#1 sounds like a headgasket, you should do some more checking to make sure. compression test, drain the oil and see how much is in there, is the coolant tank bubbling when overheating after you turn the car off...etc. rule out something simple like intake manifold gasket. turbo's are far more prone to headgasket problems and i'm not sure which turbo you have, but some oil/water cooled versions may allow mixture of the oil and coolant as well if they begin to fail. HUGE NOTE on previous comment, continuing to drive it like this will degrade your bearings, do not drive it any more and get that coolant/antifreeze out of there as soon as you can, and fix it as soon as you can if you want to keep the car. #2 need more info. is it loosing coolant for sure? if so, find the leak. if not then check your thermostat, water pump, radiator, etc. you have to remember these cars are over 20 years old. getting one and driving it like you would a newer car is not a good formula for reliability. you have 20 year old parts every where - water pumps, hoses, clamps, heater cores, headgaskets, seals, gaskets, radiators, thermostats....etc. some of those have been replaced, but not all. add in to that the idea that you have no idea how it was treated for 20 years and you really have a good chance that some previous owner drove it hot and compromised the headgaskets or other parts some time during those 20+ years.

no, you did the right thing. you do not want mismatched tires on any AWD, 4WD, FT4WD...basically any subaru unless it has FWD (either FWD or PT4WD). what are you looking for, we can probably answer your questions? are you thinking of combining them? like installing the center diff lock in the EJ stuff? that's all been answered and looked into. there are some really cool threads including transmission disassembly of various center diff locks, dual range, and EJ stuff, you might want to find those and read through them. cool stuff.

Gloyale is right - running mismatched tires is bad for any AWD or FT4WD transmission. manuals or automatics can be damaged this way. failed manual trans viscous packs make for nice candidates to turn into RWD! although i think GD is getting at the fact that the FT4WD transmission has an "open" center diff in like say, the XT6. in this case they can probably take quite a beating, but i don't know what those limits are. towing with two wheels off the ground and two on definitely fries the center diff so there's a certain amount of difference it can not handle. whether mismatched tires reaches that threshold i do not know, but Subaru recommends matched tires here.

a GL hatch is an EA81, a GL Wagon is an EA82. completely different engines if you want a "plug and play" swap. i guess everyone is assuming it's an EA82 and a wagon...maybe because the GL hatch didn't come with dual range? but either way it's best to specifically tell us what vehicle/engine you have. and then it would be good to determine if it's SPFI or MPFI and turbo or not. if you match all of that up it'll be a direct swap, very simple. some late 80's EA82's are PT4WD transmissions (not dual range), but yours would bolt right in. the only issue you would have is that the center consoles would differ...for a positively easy swap you'd want something that already had dual range, so the console and all are a direct swap. but if you can work around the console and PT4WD swap issues, you would broaden your options considerably. Loyale wagons are fairly easy to find, so keep your eye out for a rust free one...but they are not dual range. yes, new york isn't alone, the entire northeast is rather problematic with rust.

i don't recommend that! maybe pick up bow hunting for next year, it's much better anyway and a longer season so less time constraints. as for the oil pump - the biggest tip is this, i had never heard of this but figured it somehow a few years ago - have a 1" socket handy. put that on the rotor of the oil pump once you have it off and use that to hold the oil pump steady while your back the 12mm nut off the front to replace the oil pump shaft seal. by far the best method for removing the oil pump nut. have some grease or assembly lube handy to hold the mickey mouse gasket in place when you install the pump to the block. use anaerobic sealant (or most people use the cheaper RTV) stuff at the 12 noon and 6 oclock positions of the oil pump housing where it meets the block. just a very thing, tiny amount. if you look closely at the block you'll see the very fine markings of where the two halves of the block come together behind the oil pump. these dabs of sealant are specifically for those areas. don't over-do it and have it squishing all over the gasket.

i'd leave it.

this was a "new" factory Subaru head or a remanned head? i would continue troubleshooting the work they did if this was never present before. did they pull the engine to do this work? either way, i would make sure each and every connector pin is okay - i've seen bent connector pins. plugs are all connected, but if the pin is bent the connection is broken. and while checking those, make sure all the connectors are seated too, the engine harness connectors can be a bear to seat fully. i've seen no-starts caused by almost-seated connectors. doubt that's the case here since yours does start, but i'd want to inspect all the pins at least anyway.

did it ever have cylinder misfires before the head gasket work? to me that would almost rule out any fueling issues as they should not have touched any of that. if it never did it before i think they really need to focus on the parts they replaced or worked on, not things they did not. check the timing and tensioner, but they should have gotten that right? wow, you must have some really good connections or are very fortunate to have service like that from a dealer, that's exceptional. well, unless they're charging for all of that of course. but replacing the head twice, go subaru!?

yah, yah, glad to hear from you.

here's a thread with some mixed information, scroll down to the "interchangability" diagram, apparently there are two styles of automatic starters, one with a reduction drive and one without. i believe the one without is the one you want, from what i've heard others say: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7594&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=starter+automatic+manual&start=15

are you sure the distributor and ECU are loyable ECU's? not all EA82 ECU's are compatible for swapping. reiterating what others have said with some details: check the fusible links first. at this point it's probably best to pull them out and make sure they are good, they can look good but be disintegrated inside. there's only one that would caues your problem...memory is vague right now but i think it's the second one from the front...just a guess (i think it's the black one..maybe red, if they are in the proper stock configuration). make sure the ignition coil bracket is grounded properly. a loose bolt holding it to the drivers side strut tower or significant rust there could be a bad thing. ignitor coil that GD mentioned is a common one as well, it's part of the bracket, i do not know how to test it though but sounds like you have easy access to parts!

for instance, here are some cam specs on the first thread i clicked on after a quick search: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73786&highlight=cams+lift

did you try searching? this has been talked about before. i recall inconclusive or contradicting information on the cams. then there's also the issue of whether or not the aus spec is the same as the US market? might want to try "cams" as "cam" won't work with the search engine since it likes more than 3 letter searches. deltacams in washington state regrinds Subaru cams and should probably have some good information on them, maybe they would help if you gave them a buzz?

probably just bad connections throughout. battery is probably aged? is it a high quality battery? are the terminals and cable ends clean and tight? are the battery cables and end links original? the starter brushes are probably old and the guts are probably dusty inside. probably normal if it's starting fine i wouldn't worry about it.

hhhmmmm...i'm thinking i would just leave it hooked up..."just in case"! sublute, congratulations on staying task oriented and level headed through this, i'm not sure what i would be, but it wouldn't be good!

it's possible they wrote down the wrong amount. if they added one quart extra i'm fairly certain it would be much further than 1/2" up the dipstick.

i just edited my last post...might want to look it over again. quit checking back so quickly!

hello? we have the FSM's available over at the XT site though. you could down load them and look, but i'm sure you're not interested in all that. i would definitely search at the xt site, maybe someone else has experienced this before. it'll be identical to an 87+ XT and should be the same style set up as an EA82. check into this, see if it helps: the clips for the control arms for the heater doors. They are a white plastic that look like a CLAM shell kinda with a plug on back that snaps into the door arms. Then you adjust the control that runs off the elec motor by snapping the arm in the right place with the door. So you would push the defrost switch and the motor would move the control then you open the door and snap the arm into the CLAM style holder. FYI folks The newer styleclip which they call a connector is Subaru part number 772034290

i have seen them advertised with an EJ18 before, so i am guessing you saw one like that as well? i always wondered if that was a typo, swap or something else. as a matter of fact i saw one relatively recently, probably the same one you're asking about since you're not that far away.

i have not seen documentation on the wiring for your vehicle to tell you what wire it would be. i would imagine the Subaru dealer should give you a quick glance of the FSM. i've even had them photocopy small portions before. if that was all it took we would have this sorted by now. there are other engineers here, (Aerospace here), and we all have the ability, contacts and some even have the equipment available. and it has been done, but not shared. it's the desire and willingness to share that is lacking! the simple switch method is a fantastic solution and there is really no need to develop a controller (which has already been done) for it. what is needed is substantial indicators that this circuit is in use to avoid leaving it on. that is far more valuable than a high tech controller in my...one who has done this for years...opinion.

OH MY word is this a blast, way too funny!!!!!! don't you guys have some work to do...maybe i can assist 00111 01010 00011 01110 E343 A340B 3323B and hey BRAD (???), maybe ilan can look that up in the flight software users manual! get it straight yo - it's "Hee Haw and the dutchman", not just "Hee Haw" ilan is a critical part you know, don't leave him out.

the coolest thing you can do is run a Duty C switch allowing you to "lock" your rear transfer clutches and essentially run true 4WD, nearly identical to locking the center differential. a few of us have done it, have significant threads posted on how to do and it makes an automatic an excellent vehicle for snow or off road purposes.

no the oil pumps do not seize, that is highly uncommon for a good running engine, it just doesn't happen. physically speaking it's impossible for a head gasket to fail, timing belt to break and oil pump to seize all at the same time. there are a few possibilities: the headgasket was bad and the timing belt broke and they decided to leave the car sit and the oil pump wasn't seized, but just stuck from not running. maybe they were driving with bad headgaskets too long and the oil pump did seize due to lack of oil and the belt broke once the pump seized. frankly that's the only way to actually break a timing belt and have a seized pulley simultaneously. if this is the case then the block was starved of oil and your main bearings probably won't last long before you start hearing rod knock. they could have easily been driving it while overheating (bad radiator, leak, etc..) and the overheating weakened the headgaskets, other seals and caused all of the problems too. in which case that's bad to drive a car that much while overheating. it's hard on every component. but if you got it running, who cares!

i don't think there's a definitive answer because not every plug removal is the same. some catch, some do not. if every single one stripped when removed in a certain fashion, then yes a "definitive" way may arise, but that is not the case. i do them cold all the time without issue, try that way first. if you notice a plug getting stiffer and catching, then you may want to tighten it back down and warm the engine up to see if that helps. if that happens, chasing the threads with a hole chaser is a good idea, to keep your piece of mind. definitely use antiseize on the ones you install. NGK plugs, Subaru OEM wires only if this is for your 99 EJ25. that's a fun one to do spark plugs on (J/K).

yep, i'd take a FWD with quality snow tires any day over any 4WD vehicle with all seasons.