idosubaru

used axle $35 - $65 international air shipping - $100 for a good axle. or add a few dollars for a remanned unit. saves yourself tedious work and hours fiddling around...and still having a jacked up axle.

try a post in the "parts wanted" forum here, EJ stuff isn't all that hard to find. i've mailed steering racks before, not that hard..takes a long box though.

probalby best to remove the old glass and glue if you can. to remove glued/taped items, you can put them in the oven and heat them up. usually comes right off then. can't say if the heat will hurt the paint, i can't imagine that it would, you don't need to make it all that hot to soften the tap/glue.

there's been a few threads about making an XT6 into a convertible and one person has done it....there are some decent discussion, structural, reinforcing type information over at xt6.net. probably on the internet as well. if you didn't want it and it's a FWD 5 speed i'd probably take it. i may still take it if it's AWD.

it's not nearly as scientific as you would think. it starts out that way, but in the end there are marketing, reliability, and safety factors that contribute just as much to the final answer. sounds like they're final result is 1,000 miles per month..which is 12,000 miles per year which is a figure that's been around for decades in the automotive industry. it's best to stick with a quantifiable result...no matter how convoluted that "quantification' process was! so, they stick with 1,000 miles per month as a guide. realize that risk is a very "loose" term....yes you are putting yoruself in risk....but it's a very small risk and the risk would increase over time...it would be a curve, non linear for sure. that subaru chooses to pick a point on that curve that's very conservative shouldn't be that surprising. a "low" risk..pick a number...isn't likely to affect you personally, but could easily affect their reputation, sales, warranty costs...etc when multiplied out by thousands and millions of vehicles on the road. so subaru choose to manage that risk in a certain way....of course most of the time a belt it replaced it's not close to breaking. but that's the mark of a well designed product and maintenance schedule. if you owned a company that relied heavily on your reputation you would certainly err on the side of caution...particularly when it adds money to your bottom line! most (the fact that i said most should be nearly humerous) people don't make decisions based on maintenance intervals, so there isn't a huge incentive to make them as long as possible. they would rather make the intervals shorter and add a little to maintenance costs...which most don't look at anyway, than even come close to maxing out the change intervals at the expense of high expensive engine work or replacement of an interference engine. also...maintenance adds significant revenue. also...the more often they are in there, the easier it is to spot leak, find a failed tensioner...etc. maybe the belt is okay for 10 years and 150,000 miles...but that's assuming the belt is a stand alone item, unaffected by anything else. not the case, engines are very dynamic. what one part does isn't independent of every other. and in reality if you're making a one-size-fits-all product...speaking of maintenance schedules, there will certainly be lots of safety margin in the figures. people running in very hot or cold climates may not be the majority but those environments make a difference as well. after 8 years i'd want to replace a timing belt and check everything else behind it. if i get a subaru that's 8 years old or more and the timing belt was "recently replaced", i'll still pull it apart to check the tensioners and seals since many mechanics and all dealers aren't very prudent in checking/replacing those.

if you known someone with a welder, that would be time well spent to ask him to have a look and find out what kind of experience he has. this is a very easy welding job...it doesn't have to look good, it's not a finished product, it just needs to come out. with a welder this job becomes a very easy 2 minute fix. i've done it numerous time, weld a bolt or nut to the end and then use a socket to get it out. you could literally be done in 2 minutes. that certainly beats spending all that time centering the bit, grinding, tubing, drilling, drillling again, tapping, bolting, locktite...etc, etc.... if it were me, i would go this route, but i have a welder and have done it before. it is the single best method for removing a stuck fastener. good luck, look forward to hearing good news.

are you sure they are turned in all the way and emergency brake is off? most likely you just need to line up the back of the brake pads with the pistons. 'im not familiar with brats, but pads and pistons aren't typically flat. they have ridges and such in them, the pistons have to so they can be turned. and pads often have little nubs on the back. those nubs need to fit in a recessed portion of the piston so they don't stick out very far...if they don't, then exactly what is happenign to you will happen. you will have to tighten them a little more or actually loosen them, turn them back out just a 1/2 turn or so until the nubs on the pad line up with a recessed portion of the piston face. did you turn the pistons on both sides? compare them and make sure they are retracted to the same depth. if they are at different heights, then they aren't compressing properly. which means they need new seals (couple dollars) or you need new calipers. aside from that, is it possible you got the wrong rotors or pads (or they gave you the wrong ones)? it's obvoiusly rare, but i've seen the wrong parts come in the right box...in other words order "XT6 something" and get the wrong part even when the box says XT6 and has the right part numbe ron it.

thanks guys, i appreciate it. i dont have any temperature gauges, but i got two hands and 10 or so fingers. anyway and i don't have a vacuum gauge but probably should. if the temp to the touch and feeling out the exhaust pipe are indeterminate i'll probably get a vaccuum gauge. where do i hook it up???

i mentioned welding a long time ago, he does not weld and wasn't interested in pursuing that option, i think it's time to move on unless he informs us otherwise. i would feel very confident of this bolt coming out based on the observations made thus far. i've had very good success getting out corroded, seized and very difficult bolts, i don't think this one, not even being under load or seized will be all that bad. i had materials engineering course and understand yield very well and agree that won't help, but i think it's not a huge obstacle if you proceed slowly and pay attention. and good points about the tap...read up or ask about using one if you're not familiar with using them. lubricate, allow it to cool, and thread, reverse, thread reverse to break up chunks as you go. remove to clean at intervals.

i didn't know how long you had those cars, just making an observation. you only had one for a long time, mileage is more important than time and one or two is still anecdotal at best. i'm not saying it won't work...as a matter of fact it will. not trying to poke you, only suggesting that percentages and mileage is much better if it's machined..like nipper said, for flatness and finish. it's not about "right or wrong" so much as percentages. i like a high percentage success rate and many on this board have a %100 success rate on a lot of headgaskets, not just a few. there's your mistake and the cause of your confusion, that's not what happens. like i said, there are threads discussing the failure mode and how it works. a complete loss of coolant isn't the case, as is the case in other types of head gasket failures. it's more about pockets of air in the wrong place. if the technicalities interest you or you don't believe what you read here, then search this forum or the internet for subaru specific info. then read up on fluid flow, pumps, cavitation and all that fancy jazz and it'll make more sense. i'm not an expert so i won't try to describe "exactly" how it happens, but the information is out there. in a similar way, some systems will overheat, if when filled, they do not have all air pockets out of them...they overheat for the same reasons. same failure mode, but different causes.... this principle isn't "subaru-specific". if you run any engine with underfilled amounts of coolant and see how they respond, some will do the same exact thing...depending how the coolant settles, circulates and where the air pockets end up.

there are explanations posted on here, but it's quite common for subaru head gaskets to do that. they don't really "blow" in the typical sense, they are really minor leaks compared to a fully "blown" head gasket. what you're experiencing is not weird or abnormal, it's typical EJ headgasket stuff. nipper said it best, that you got away without milling it the first two times was fortunate. use subaru gaskets, have the heads milled and you're likely to have the good results everyone else has. also..if you've done it twice before, but don't still own the cars, there's no telling they really held for 100,000 miles like they should if done properly, so those "successes" are really anecdotal at best.

the 4EAT thing is not the problem. i've swapped numerous manual and 4EAT ECU's, never seen a problem on that end.

good point, that means maybe you should just use a very small bit only to start the divot, not actually drill a hole of any depth. i have another idea...as if you needed another.. i was wondering....if you drilled a hole all the way through the remaining crank bolt and tapped it ...then threaded a very long bolt into it...long enough to bottom out, and kept turning it after it was bottomed out, since it is only threaded into the remaining crankshaft bolt it will never tighten and it will keep rotating the crank bolt. the remaining crank bolt will either go further in the hole, or come out. i just can't picture which way the remaining crank bolt will go. but if it goes further in, then you'll just need to get a left handed threaded tap and bolt. i think this is the method i would try first. given that the bolt isn't actually torqued or seized in, i believe it'll come right out and you avoid any ez outs or the like. make sure it's not a little tiny hole and bolt, make it large enough to handle the job. i'd say 3/16" would be golden...but i don't have any to look out in front of me.... actually the left handed tap might actually draw it out, the only down side to this is that a right handed tap might "screw it in", you'd have to keep an eye on it. i'm betting the left handed tap would pull it right out, it's tight work threading a hole. use a large tap...a broken tap is about as suicidal as a broken ez out, but i've never broken one yet. be sure to use the correct size bit and work the tap properly and it shouldn't break, that's what they are made for.

yes, i know this is old...but rather than start a new thread: my legacy barely idles, cuts out unless i give it gas and won't hold RPM if i hold the gas pedal in one position, it will die unless i'm varying the gas pedal position. barely moveable if i try to drive it. i had the exhaust off and was banging it, jarring it, slamming it to get a tool out that fell in it....nipper suggests i might have a fouled up converter. car/engine ran fine before the engine swap and this exhaust "work". if this is the cause of running this bad will the lack of pulses out the tail pipe be obvious? don't think i can get it idling long enough to check though. can i unbolt it from the headers and run it without the exhaust to test? i know the older generation soobs run fine like that..very, very, annoyingly loud, but you can at least drive them a mile without any exhaust just to check. same with the EJ stuff? i know all that abuse i gave it could have knocked the converter loose, but would that really cause it to "clog" like this right away?

don't bother with the JB weld, it'll be a waste of time. DO NOT USE AN EZOUT. you break that off inside you're crank and you're really in for a world of hurt. please don't use it, yes it might work. but they are very, very brittle and break easily. seen it happen many times, and getting a stuck EZ OUT removed is a PITA. do not follow anecdotal advice on this one, just because it "has" and "can" work does not mean the risk is worth it. EZ outs are horrid, i personally think the things should be illegal. if the EZOUT works, the method below will work as well, i gaurantee it...and without the risk. ALSO...the twisted style EZ outs suck also because they make your job harder if they don't work. as you tigthen they force the remaining material "out" and make the bolt tighter inside the bore of the hole...making further efforts more difficult if it doesn't work. spend the effort and time waiting for a left handed cobalt drill bit (or a couple in different sizes). that bolt isn't in there very tight, it might just back it out. any drill should have a "reverse" setting, you don't need a special drill to drill "left handed". all you need is a basic drill, a right angle attachment (or just a right angle drill) and the left handed drill bit. so long as the drill has a reverse on it...which all of mine do, never seen one that doesnt, you're golden. a right handed bit would work fine and that's the route i would go, i wouldn't wait, but being your first time dealing with this i'm trying to be cautious for you. as a last resort...you can always continue drilling out...drill one small hole, then one or two more sizes bigger until the bolt literally falls apart...that will always work. i would save time by doing one of the following below though. i would drill a hole, then insert needle nose pliers into it...then "open" them while they're in the hole and see if they bite enough to turn the bolt. if that doesn't work i'd plan on threading a bolt inside the hole with some locktite. let it set and use a socket to turn it out. i think that's the easiest solution and won't be prone to causing trouble if something goes wrong. just don't use some high grade steel bolt that's difficult to drill or anything just in case. here's the best method for keeping it centered: get some tube the same diameter as the crank shaft hole. drill a hole in the center of it for your drill bit. fit this in the crank bolt hole and drill the crank bolt through it....this will keep it centered. or....use a dremel tool if there's room, to grind a flat area to keep center. or use a punch to create a center divot to start the drilling. or use a very tiny drill bit to start the hole.

H6 engines are very expensive. i'd expect $2,000 minimum for a used one in good condition, low miles. also - being a 6 cylinder, a completely redesigned engine i'm guessing the electronics are not interchangeable. in other words you can't just drop it in, the wiring, and ECU would need work most likely. i'm not positive though, i know of only one H6 swap and i don't know the details on it. the easier option is probably a turbo, but i don't know how good of an idea that is on your 2.5. those are known for head gasket problems, so all that additional pressure and heat probably isn't a good thing. the non-turbo 2.2's are very easy to install a turbo on though with great results as well.

so long as you have a working center differential lock it will work fine. a PT4WD trans or locking center diff full time 4WD box will do it.

are you sure his is rod knock and not just the oil pump, valve train noise? a few dollars in oil pump seals and tightening the screws on the back of the oil pump may fix it. the backing screws typically loosen up. other than that, you can swap 95 2.2's. the only issue you may have is the EGR valve. the automatics have an EGR while the manuals do not. if yours doesn't have an EGR valve but you find a block that does, you'll just have to screw a plug in the EGR port in the head and use your existing intake manifiold. easy. this should be the case if your current vehicle is a manual trans and you use a 95 EJ22 from an automatic. if yours has an EGR valve then you'll likely want to get a 95 EJ22 from an automatic with EGR stuff on it for a direct swap. technically you could use a non-EGR valve EJ22, by using your intake manifold and probably drilling and tapping the head for your EGR pipe. if you're willing to remove your EGR altogether, you can really do whatever you want. if you want a very direct swap, check notes above. if you want to use the EJ25, just reuse the existing EJ25 heads and have them checked and milled at a machine shop. find a local shop that's done some subaru heads and they'll be very familiar with subaru heads. given this type of work, if you can do it, the machine shop doesn't charge much to check and mill the heads. as a last resort, just get a set of EJ25 heads from somewhere and use those.

XT ECU's and wiring suck. try a non XT ECU? i've had trouble getting my swapped XT "turbo" to run right. maybe the ECU is bad? does the fuel pump prime with the turbo ECU? plug the test connectors in and see if you can hear the fuel pump prime, it should prime everything 3 seconds or something like that, it's easy to hear.

wow, that is crazy. im really sorry to hear that. i don't even use a torque wrench i know i go way over the 125 mark with my 3 foot breaker bar...and i've never seen one break. i would imagine the stresses that it has been through weakened it. well this isn't the end of the world, you can do this. doesn't require anything major and i gaurantee you this bolt will come out. actually it's not even seized, old or rusted, this won't be bad at all. i've extracted seized, 2 decaded old, rusted, weaked, bolts before and gotten them out. this won't be bad. i agree with mike, i would immediately try to back it out. if you have any metal to grab on to you can use vise grips or a monkey wrench. you might try grabbing it and turning it with anything you can. maybe you can JB weld something to the end...let it dry and see if that holds enough to back it out? needle nose pliers maybe? those ideas probably won't work. there are a few options. remove the radiator and get as much room to work as you can. like he just said, it's not in there all that tight with the head sheared off. the easiest way and what i would do is tack weld a bolt onto the sheared off end. let it cool down and back it out with the bolt you just welded on. this is by far the quickest and easiest method and will work every time here as the crank and bolt are easy to weld on. if you can't weld or don't know anyone else that can, then it's time to get a cobalt drill bit (available at any home improvement store). drill into the sheared off crank pulley. then tap it and thread a smaller bolt into the hole with some locktite or JB weld. yo'ure trying to permanently fix the bolt to the remaining crank bolt. let it dry and then back it out with a socket wrench. you may also drill two holes big enough for needle nose pliers to fit in, insert them into the two holes and turn the bolt out. you will have to order one as they rarely have them available locally unless you have good supply stores, but i would get left handed cobalt drill bits. in this case it will be worth it to you as you want this to be as simple as possible. often just drilling with a lefthanded bolt will cause the bolt to back out since it's drilling while turning it "out". be sure if you do any drilling or welding to let it cool down, as the bolt will be expanded and probably harder to get out when it's hot. you'll probably also need a right angle drill or right angle drill attachment (that's what i have for the front of the engine stuff like this and it works fine).

wasn't trying to knock your methods, but in my experience JB weld is a very low percentage fix. yes, i've seen it work too. but i've seen it fail as well. in areas that experience any type of load or vibration i would not use it. it is strong, but it's brittle as well.

i always mill the heads, it's not that expensive and worth the increased success rate...particularly on that motor. might be worth having the head checked. if it checks out bad but isn't out of tolerance for milling this engine may be fine. his statement inferred that 2.2 and 2.5 stuff wasn't interchangeable and that's not true, so i wanted to clarify that before anyone started asking questions.

that's not normal and will only confuse the original poster. he's wanting to put a 2.2 in a 2.5, the wiring and ECU will not be an issue. drop in an EJ22 and it will fire...assuming everything is working properly.

this is probably salvagable and you can do it yourself. DO NOT use JB weld or locktite thread goop on this. i don't care that it "might" work or that anecodotal cases were successful, this is a low percentage solution given it's your oil pump. please do not do that, at least not yet. there is no need to remove the engine and you can do this yourself. here's what you really should do: first get a tap and die. a tap creates threads, use it to clean the original threads in the block. just take a bolt into the store and check the size/thread. get the right tap and die. use the tap to chase the threads in the block. run the tap in and out a few times, making the threads squeaky clean. turn it a bit, back it off, turn it in more, back it off, it's a gradual process. this will gaurantee your bolt and holes have identical threads and that they are clean. now...find out how deep the holes are, i've done this a number of times and while i've never done an EJ22 oil pump hole, every other one i've ever done, the hole is deeper than the original bolt. so....with clean threads, figure out how deep the holes are and buy bolts that are the right length. you want to use bolts that are longer than stock, but don't bottom out. you'll reach new, unused threads that way...as well as using the original threads that you just chased and cleaned up. you might need to buy some that are too long and cut them to size or use washers under the heads for extra clearance. a dremel, sawzall, or cutting wheel works fine for cutting the bolt...then after cutting chase it with the die so the threads are nice and cleaned up. i've done this numerous times, it saves a ton of effort and works perfectly. no drilling the block or using a helicoil and no shady attempts at getting locktite to work. in the event the holes aren't any deeper than the original bolts (keeping in mind some of the length of the bolt is taken up by the thickness of the oil pump), then you can do all of this, chase the block and bolt threads and still try to use those. you might get lucky. but....i'm guessing the holes are at least a little bit deeper....the've always been on water pump bolts, timing pulleys...etc. i know that sounds long, but it's not all that difficult. you also might be able to find a standard size bolt/thread option that can be tapped within the size of that hole. i've done that before as well. you'll looking for a size that's just a little bit bigger than what the current size is. you can probably even go up one metric size bolt...if it's a 6mm now, go to a 7mm. buy a tap for the 7mm and tap each hole. buy new bolts and go to town. those are two methods that don't require any drilling into the block and you can easily do yourself. if for some reason you can't pull this off there are other options...helicoil isn't all that bad and can be done with the engine in the car. rent a right angle drill or get a right angle drill attachment (preferably a very short one for clearance). i've had to do this before and it will work as well. you don't need to drill much, just enough to get one insert in there, not the entire bolt depth.

uhhh...you'd probably just replace the bearing while it's apart. given that they aren't that expensive, the labor will be the high cost and you'll have to buy new seals anyway. while it's apart and paying the labor, i'd just install new bearings. but technically...they probably could regrease and reseal the old bearings.