idosubaru

There are no comprehensice charts. Hopefully someone knows but I’ve never heard of anyone swapping between 00-04 and later ATs you could compare FSM wiring harnesses pin outs for the TCU or trans harness. I wouldn’t make much about the EJ25 and EJ253 designations. “EJ25” is used ubiquitously to refer to various flavors of 1996-2011 EJ25s I have my doubts about 2007 CANBUS accepting an earlier model

Sometime the grille needs to stay with the bumper. Verify the grille or keep it if you keep the bumper. +1 to fog lights. Purely aesthetic or to keep up with the neighbors.

No, if by “lock in place” you mean do they require a special tool or procedure to remove. Do you have the FSM?

They are not torque to yield. Reuse them If they’re not damaged. Clean bolt holes well and lube the head bolts and you’re done. If you’re staying NA then converting to studs will offer no advantage. If you’re building some other than NA that’s out of my skillset and experience.

You’ll probably need to run it to see if it’s still leaking. or check the items mentioned above for signs of front engine seals of OP switch. I didn’t think it had an oil cooler but just checking. with engine swaps frequently in those years due to HGs and people just adding them, it wouldnt be a surprise to have one. Oil filters leak if the oil filter seal is compromised or double stacked because the previous one stuck to the engine and wasn’t noticed before the new oil filter was installed.

Subarus are fairly simple, straight forward and no special tools needed. loosen inner tie rod to outer tie rod lock but with a large wrench or plumbers wrench. Do this first so you’re not trying to loosen it from a floppy disconnected outer tie rod Remove outer tie rod nut and tie rod from knuckle. If you’re in a rust prone area or maybe just age related - they can be very hard to pound through the knuckle. Don’t go easy on it. I’ve had the thread ends smashed and mushroomed out when they finally come through. If you can put the wheel of the car on the wheel/jack stand so the strut isn’t absorbing the pounding. If you have a torch use it Remove inner tie rod boot clamp - the small one and just leave it dangling on the tie rod. unscrew outer tie rod from inner. There’s flat spots to use on the tie rods, one is 13mm and the other 14mm maybe, WAG. Or use a plumbers pipe wrench - excellent for this. remove inner tie rod boot clamps/holding springs and remove boot. get a wrench back there and remove the tie rod. There isn’t much space but they’ll come out with regular wrenches and tools. install in reverse, paying attention to order. inner tie rod, boot, boot clamps, then locking nut, then outer. Assemble in that order since the Boot and clamp can’t go past the locking nut.

Those are fog lights. There’s so many of them and they’re so old, very little is hard to find. Are you looking for parts to sell or keep? The answer may differ depending what you’re trying to do. Leather and in particular black leather interior Seats: power drivers side, heated, heated mirrors - VDCs do, I forget if GTs have those in that gen. Cars101 would delineate that. Similarly I don’t think GTs have them but the tweeter speakers on the front doors. Dual cup holder center console. Center console rear seat fold down cup holders, they’re often broken. Front and rear head rests. Headlights but they’re nothing special, only due to yellowing/fading, having an extra set to polish and have ready to swap. Wiper motor linkages with good bushings. There’s an easy DIY fix from auto parts stores but keeping a good OEM set for personal use isn’t a terrible idea. Front door gussets if they’re not noisy.

what up thesid, hope you're thawing out well.

yes you can swap the heads. you'll need a single port exhaust manifold and can just block off the EGR valve and ignore the check engine light (it's benign in that case) or reroute vacuum lines to get rid of it. did you look at the 97 heads or are using online information for EGR determination? this is mostly pointless since it doesn't matter, but 97 is a weird year with EGR and timing tensioner - I'd expect that one to be non-EGR but I also wouldn't be surprised if you got an odd EGR one in 1997. i would just get 95 heads and keep it all simple. i think you can use 91-94 heads as well. pistons changed in 1997 making it interference but i haven't messed with 90's EJ's much in the last 5 years as they all rust away here and some of the details are foggy. warn camshafts - says who and why? they shouldn't be the first thing to be wearing out in that vehicle. i'd wonder if the main or rod bearings are about to let loose if the cams are actually warn. i'd cut open the oil filter and see what kind of debris it's collecting or get UOA to see if there's bearing material present before opening it up.

Headgasket. Rather than where the oil ends up - Post a picture of the source of the oil leak and the HG mating surface area or larger area in general. I don’t think that has an oil cooler but if it did, those leak at the oil filter to engine gasket. Replace oil cooler gasket seal. $5 and 30 minutes. But I don’t think that car has one.

That’s a good point. Count how many wheel weights, or Markings from previous weights, are on them. I’ve seen bent rims with like 8 weights on them. Rotate them front to back or have a tire shop balance and tell you. Ive never seen a bent rim cause a shake that was problematic or seemed like something other than a wheel but haven’t seen many bent rims either.

USDM SOHC EJ22's there is (my tooth count could be off, but they're different): 1. 99-01 223 tooth belt, same as Phase II EJ25. and 2. 1998 and earlier 211 tooth belt If hes using a 2000 belt on a 96 engine as his post says then he's using the wrong SOHC belt

No. The difference is small small it's basically negligible, on the same order as the tire change from new to old. Technically the answer is both "yes" and "no". "No" - speedo's often read 1-3% lower than actual speed. The new tire size will be 2% off, which will basically eat up up that 1-3% low margin in the speedometer from the factory and make it read the same or closer to actual speed: Here's the scenarios depending how low your current speedo is: 3% low and gain 2% = 1% high (speedo reads high). 2% low and gain 2% = 0% dead on 1% low and a 2% gain = 1% low 0% low and a 2% gain = 2% over...which in this case is minisicule. at 100 you'll be going 102 mph.

Good call, i've had that happen before - test fit a tire and have another brand/new one rub. stock 2000 outback tires are 225/60/16 and have less clearance than the 15's you mentioned. i think 96 and 00 outback struts are the same perch height clearance up front, so there should be no problems up front. the rear struts are totally different between 96 and 00 though.

check that front control arm rear bushing i mentioned above. and tie rods.

Can of worms youre opening. bare minimum is: belt, toothed pulley and pump gasket. Add pump if needed/wanted. water pumps have a short no visible shaft so they’re not axially loaded like long shaft pumps which are prone to fail more often (at least OEM pumps don’t) ideally they’re subaru parts but it’s a noninterference engine and the cheaper aftermarkets May look too appealing to pass up. The other stuff has low failure rates and isn’t necessary. That probably has the old style tensioner such rarely fails, I never replace those and almost always replace the new style.

that pic is the overhaul section so it’s going to include more steps than you need. You want just the timing belt section if it exists. After that the water pump is only like 6 more 10mm bolts, bypass hole and clean the block surface. Done. I’m sure I missed something but what I just wrote is fairly comprehensive and detailed. You’re also using a fanatic forum for getting help. Very talented and experienced folks on here. I’ve never seen this high of a density of shop owners/workers who generously help others. Very cool folks on here.

You don’t need to remove cam shaft pulleys or sensor or any timing pulleys. The sensor is 1 10mm bolt and pulleys are one 14mm bolt each so they’re not hard anyway. line up your timing belt marks before you remove the belt just in case it’s an inference engine. It shouldn’t be being a 96 but that engine is a plug and play swap for 97 and 98 engines which are interference and it’s not altogether impossible to have an interference 1996. remove rad fans - 4 10mm bolts, 2 top and 2 bottom And electrical connector. Passengers side pulls out first then drivers remove hoses remove drive belts for air and power steering all 12mm bolts. Remove the AC belt tensioner bracket - 2 12mm bolts. remove 22mm crank bolt remove 10mm timing cover bolts. line up timing marks on can and crank sprockets. remove lower pass side timing pulley 14mm. Remove drivers side tensioner pulley (14mm) and tensioner bolts (12mm) remove water pump bypass hose pull belt. Remove 10mm water pump bolts And pull water pump off scrape and clean off old gasket, get a clean finish on the mating surface of block install gasket dry on pump. skowly compress timing tensioner with a clamp or vice and place Allen wrench through holes to hold it retracted. The wrench needs to be flush on the engine side and stick out towards you standing in front of the engine so you can pull it once the belt is installed. install in reverse order. ensure timing marks are exact and keep all slack out of the belt except for the last pulley you’re wrapping it around. Don’t install the lower passengers side pulley until the belt is installed. I usually aim for installing it’s last around the install lowered toothed pulley then install the Lower pass side timing pulley. that lower toothed pulley is by far the most failure prone part of the timing components that will strand you. I’d buy a new one for $30 from Subaru. Well worth it.

No special tools are needed, but a noob that’s never held a wrench before would certainty get frustrated. remove radiator fans, but not the radiator. Radiator gives you more room and you’re already puking coolant. and less chance of damage if you’re a first timer or tend to go crazy. But it’s easy to do without pulling the radiator so I never do it. Loosening the crank bolt is one of the trickier parts. the engine turns over so you gotta stop it form turning. If it’s an automatic, Place a large screwdriver in the bellhops if access cover through one of the 4 rectangular holes in the flex plate. Hold that with one hand while loosening the 22mm crank bolt. if it’s a manual - put it in gear, have someone smash the brake pedal and smack a long breaker bar fast with a hammer = ghetto impact wrench. or place breaker against frame rail and crank engine for one second to use the starter to loosen the bolt. Be careful but it worms. or if you can weld or can hack things - make your own pulley holder. Just need a king stout metal object with rods that insert into the empty holes in the crank pulley and leaves space for a socket wrench. turn the cams with a 10mm 6 point socket. paper water pump gaskets routinely leak - would be no surprise to see a paper aftermarket gasket in there. Get a Subaru OEM gasket and install it clean and dry. I have some extras I could mail you one for whatever Subaru charges. if you’re trying to save a dime you could just try to replace the gasket and not the pump. But I’d be hesitant and worried that maybe it is the pump and you can’t tell if it’s coming from the weep hole or not. I’d replace the pump with Subaru OEM but I understand circumstances dictate otherwise sometimes. If it’s an OEM pump just leave it and replace the gasket. They fail but not often enough I’d be worried about it in a situation you’re describing. Just for scope - ive changed those belts in 45 minutes before. They’re easy. You’ll take longer first time just like I take forever when I work on something non-Subaru. But it’s not bad. Pump is another hour to remove and mainly clean surfaces. Have good scrub pads ready for aggressive cleaning.

You never said what year or model? front control arm bushing. or I guess since you don't want to guess any more - jack it up and pry REALLY hard from a bunch of different angles, trying to get all the bushings to budge. Sometimes they're hard to tell if they're bad or not. The front ones can be bad too but it's often the rear: 00-04 it's usually the front control rear bushing that can be bought separate and replaced easily as a housing/unit. or you can just replace the bushing too. i can mail you a new entire bolt on aftermarket part for like $30. https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/18998-01044604.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=2000-2004+Subaru+Outback+Control+Arm+Bushing+Genuine+W0133-1652598+Front+Left+Rearward+00-04+Subaru+Control+Arm+Bushing+2001&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=412523790879%3A%3Apla-412523790879&kid=412523790879&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqNOAt7ms6AIVCZ2zCh3RXgRQEAQYASABEgIYmPD_BwE 05+ the rear is pressed into the control arm.

If you’re getting a code then that circuit is compromised. It doesn’t mean the sensor is bad - but rather the circuit which supports that sensor. It could be, and often is, a sensor. But in this case there’s additional stuff we know. Disclaimer - speed sensor issues are rare and I’m unfamiliar with specifics if the same thing has happened with two transmissions then speed sensors seem unlikely. Because the speed sensor is in the trans so you essentially swapped speed sensor with no change in symptoms. Subaru speed sensor issues are extremely rare anyway. I would be inclined to suspect anything that is: A: related to the speed sensor circuit B: but not part of the transmission (because those sensors are in the trans and swapped with the trans). which means: 1. start following the FSM Procedures for that code with special attention to the wiring measurements - resistance, continuity, etc 2. connectors And wiring - follow and inspect for damage. Rodent damage or prior accident damage would be most likley. * any prior accidents? * did it sit for an extended period or was it around urban chipmunks or farm field mice ? 3. the TCU itself. Not sure how to test those but I don’t think you can just plug and play swap that 2005 like you can a 2004.

*** You have the wrong belt, a 2000 won't work. You need to buy a belt for the year of the engine you own and ignore the tensioner. 96, 98, and 2000 are mentioned, yet we don't know what engine or vehicle you're working on? If it's a 1998 then there's significant risk of bent valves. The tensioner has no bearing on which timing belt you choose. 1996 with old style tensioner and a 1998 with new style tensioner uses the same timing belt. The old and new style tensioners, with their accompanying bracket, are interchangeable. Make sure you're using the correct timing marks, it's not uncommon to use the wrong ones.

let’s assume during the trans swap the battery was disconnect for awhile. Disconnect it again for awhile to reset all the systems and see if the issues go away momentarily again. replace the trans filter and cut it open to inspect for debris. I would verify all your transmission fluid lines are not damaged, stock, and not clogged. It couldn’t have been the tires. No surprise there i can’t imagine the rear diff causing issues without noise and going away a bit after the trans swap sounds like the rear diff is just leaking. Not a big deal. Pull the rear diff cover or plug and check for debris and swirls. Jack up the rear of the car and spin the rear tires - listen for noise/feel for binding. I highly doubt you’ll have any. Subaru rear diff failure is so rare most people needlessly condemn them.

Anyone that’s used it knows exactly what you mean! Bad descriptions. Generic photos. Wrong years/models/interchanges listed. Convoluted or unhelpful reviews and shipping information. Declining seller protections, shady people returning things on your time/dime....

Great. *** are these symptoms similar to before the trans swap or distinctly different? 1. if they’re different then maybe it’s something related to the swap work/new trans. A. Check fluid level. I know you have but verify it’s right and not loosing fluid B. Is the AT light flashing 16 times at start up? C. Make sure the front CV axles are fully seated. They need seated all the way. if the symptoms are absolutely 100% Identicial we need to consider what non-trans item could be a culprit.