idosubaru

wrong belt. Use a 1996. If it was too tight it wasn’t being installed correctly or the make/model/year of vehicle or engine/parts is incorrectly stated. Tensioner has nothing to do with it.

I googled “torque converter Noise Subaru” and there are some videos of noises and symptoms listed that seem very close to what we are describing. I didn’t click on any links but you could give it a try. If it is, we then need to know if other issues can cause torque converter noise (bad solenoid, wiring or valve body, poor ATF flow), or if noise always means the torque converter is bad?

If it’s what I’m thinking, I’ve heard that sound before. I don’t know what it is though but it’s been on running driving cars that did it for quite a few thousand miles and some would shift funny until you turn the car off then back on and that would usually fix it until the next drive. My current XT6 is one of them, so far I’ve driven it like 10,000 miles making that noise with no issues. But I’d love to know what it is. my suspicion is the torque converter. But that’s very much a guess. I don’t know they’re failure modes enough.

I don’t know how long or aggressive it was driven but I highly doubt low fluid caused any damage that quick. I’ve seen lots of subarus without ATF or low ATF and no immediate failures. it would be far more likely that al the issues are related to the same pre-existing failure modes which are compounding over time and getting worse.

1. Did the trans have any symptoms at all before the first code showed up? I'd go back in and inspect the solenoids, the solenoid orings (if equipped), the internal filter and it's corresponding oring as well. a. Solenoid replacement fixed the code, and temporarily the drivability problems - suggesting an issue (but maybe not all) was definitively fixed. b. "New" symptoms presented after the work...maybe suggesting something that was touched is amiss. Maybe another problem is causing debris to foul things over time (hence the slight reprieve), but given a & b above I'd be interested to double check some things.

https://www.sjrlift.com/collections/all-others that's who i use, been around a long time and a long time member here.

Look for an online discount code and buy the one from AZ. I've done that at Advance Auto Parts about 100 times, though they have cut back on the real good ones in the past year. Search for the autozone part number - someone is supplying them and likely they're available somewhere else. Unless it's just one of those listings that you'd eventually click on only to find out it's no longer available. Previous suggestions are really good as well.

A guy I worked with had his worthless 80's Volkswagen totaled by someone else. He had rebuilt everything in it. He said since it wasn't his fault, he was going to get all the value out of that car and enough money to rebuild another one. He of course had to rebuff the $800 offer to total it. He told the insurance all his work, documented what he could, and told them he expected to get back what he had in it. And they reimbursed him significantly. I've done the same thing a few times, once for myself, and a couple times helping out friends. If you can talk to an adjuster in person and actually point things out and show them - so they know you're not BSing, they've been very helpful in my 3 cases. You do have to get through the initial work of convincing them you actually did a lot of work to this car, above and beyond just repairs and inspection costs and break downs - I'm sure they hear that all the time, so don't just expect them to believe or trust that what you say is above and beyond everyone else they talk to. Once they realize you're not average Joe, they've been really helpful to me. and I think avoiding a lawyer (which I've always done) is helpful too. But none of those incidents involved medical issues, so that simplified things. I'm sure I got lucky with the company and person I talked with to some extent. But try to get face to face and point out and show you're not like everyone else just trying for a money grab and maybe you'll get lucky. I've always had it in mind that if they tried to not play nice, I may have to drop hints that I might have to escalate or get some help settling this (lawyer hints), but I've never needed to do that. They let me keep my totaled XT6, without totaling it so i didn't have to juggle the title/DMV reinspection, and also cut me a sizable check for far more than the "total" value, when a lady hit me. They're generally limited to totaling a car, or not, but they have ways of going above and beyond that if it's in their best interests which I would guess it is if we're avoiding a lawyer.

1. Was the 0758 present continuously (it never went away) before you started replacing the solenoids? 2. Did the 0758 go away when those solenoids were replaced? 3. Has that code, or any others, come back again with the new round of issues? 4. Is the pan dented, damaged, previously repaired or deformed? 5. What was the condition of the old fluid in the pan and the screen at the bottom of hte pick up (essentially the "filter) when you pulled the pan?

that post is spam/clickbait.

Get a used pulley or fix it I’ve seen that happen before as well but always had extra pulleys so it’s a no issue. Seems like there has to be a way to reattach that ring. I’d try to weld it. All it would need is three tacks, it’s a light duty application, don’t run a full bead. if you’re uncomfortable with that or uncertain of the materials like Dave said, ask a local machine shop. They should be able to figure it out real quick.

I wouldn’t recommend it. Im sure the engine could be raised and twisted enough for the heads and bolts to clear the frame rails. It’s just a matter of how much. I haven’t attempted it so maybe I shouldn’t say. But I’ve done EJs/EAs and 6 cylinder subarus (ERs) HGs in the car and the 4 cylinders aren’t that bad considering the scope of the task to begin with. I wouldnt do an EZ like that. Potentially rusty timing chain cover bolts and raising and twisting an EZ with less clearances and larger parts than an EJ seems overkill for avoiding pulling the engine. Itll basically require pulling it or doing all the similar labor to do so anyway if it’s attempted insitu.

Yes, drain it. If you're trying to be speedy-mc-grab-a-part at the back holler pull a part that doesn't drain the coolant first....you don't have "have" to drain it. Pull the intake manifold and the coolant rages out of the intake passages, all over the top of the engine, into the head ports/valve seating area and drips into the combustion chambers.

Coolant crossover orings hoses and sensors should be double checked first too, good chance you’re just missing one of those. But if it’s really hard to locate then crossover pipe coolant orings are likely.

They’re all about the same. They have different price and shipping structures so it’s not necessarily accurate to say “one is cheaper”. subarupartsforyou subarugenuineparts subarupartswarehouse libertySubaru have been around and common for years but now there’s a bunch more too. Check for melted plastic sensors like knock sensor, etc. If there’s any oil in it you could have it sent to black stone or UPA company for testing as well. if anything is melted or has warped surfaces then I’d assume it’s trash from severe overheating. I’ve seen engines like that knock right after install. I get it, hoping for a cheap engine, but it can be an enormous waste of time and money too. JDMs for those can be had for $600, not a bad deal.

Online Subaru dealers. Pull the oil filter and cut it open and see if there’s any debris in it.

Change the PCV valve with a Subaru one to maybe help mitigate that oil loss. easy and cheap. another user with an H6 that had all 6 misfires, had three dirty injectors on one side. Cleaning the 3 on one side alleviated all 6 misfires. its loosing oil, usually past the rings, but this is fairly common without causing all the cylinders to misfire.

Yards take anything. If someone is picking it up they’ll take it free or charge a few dollars depending how far and current rates. Scrap rates are so low its unlikely to get paid unless you’re lucky. it’ll be chump change even if you’re paid.

FSMs are readily available online for free. Get one of those. With that “custom” work done to it I wouldn’t put it past the previous owners to do something wonky to it. Make sure all plugs are seated and parts are in their original place and wiring looks unmolested. were there any attempts to install that “turbo kit” yet? That’s a good place for something to go bad. Probably best not to install that kit, good chance of blowing up the engine. The cam and crank sensors are so easy to replace I would swap those with used ones. Or test them if you don’t want to guess. On this uncertain car they probably won’t be an issue but they’re often easy to get inexpensively or “free”

bell housing access cover, completely benign, they’re frequently missing or out of place. They sort of push into place but get hard with age and often don’t fit well.

Problem existed before and after spark plug change so unless the details described aren’t accurate it’s almost inconceivable to get 12 different plugs all which have the same symptoms. it might be worth asking the condition of the old plugs and pull one or two of the new ones to check their current condition.

H6s occasionally have 6 misfires caused by carbon deposits/fouling of the intakes/heads.

Not all ujoints failure modes are the same. Some lock rigidly tight, some have play, some show externally visible damage and others do not. I assume symptoms can also vary. it’s been awhile but I’m fairly certain I’ve seen them vibrate while coasting. I seem to recall driving one where I was trying to keep it under load.

when you replaced the plugs and gaskets were there any oil leaks in the plug tubes or issues noted with plugs? I don’t think this is possible but could the COPs be on the wrong plug? How about the suggestion that never solves an issue - bad gas?

More vibration before they were replaced - so repacking then changes the vibration? Maybe the old ones vibrates and the new ones vibrate too, but a little less. Rear shaft: not sure about 05 Impreza but in general you can sometimes get them out without removing any exhaust bolts. unbolt it then try to squeeze it around the exhaust. You can remove a exhaust hanger or two so it moves more readily. Just ample warm dishwashing soap for the rubber hangers.