idosubaru

EJ22s are really easy to do. External head bolts, small heads. Knock that cake walk out.

1996 = old style tensioner. you have two options: All parts should be Subaru OEM: 1. old style timing kit. reuse the tensioner as kits usually don’t include it. 2. New style timing kit and buy the $20 tensioner bracket from Subaru, eBay, or someone on here. These come with new tensioners, unlike option 1. Option #2 may actually be cheaper depending on source. old style tensioners were more reliable than the new, so reusing was seen as an option. But it is a quarter century old, interference engine, and you’re putting a lot into this so a new tensioner makes sense. If youre considering aftermarket parts, i would favor reusing the original old style tensioner over an aftermarket new style tensioner if you’re looking at cheap timing kits

doubt i'd run that. i'd be hesitant to trust that product and long distance warranty.

Probably 1998 DOhC EJ25D kit but we don’t know what parts you have. DOHC belt and match the tensioner to the bracket you use (single piece or two piece). There are two DOHC tensioner styles, one piece is early usually 1996 and some 1997s, which is what HLAs usually are. Two piece is 1997+. you don’t tell us what parts you have or if you have both complete engines. You can use either tensioner style, they’re interchangeable. The tensioner bolts to a bracket so swap bracket to swap tensioner. Two bolts and $20 from Subaru or use what you have. Easy. Probably use the 253 bracket and newer one piece tensioner since it’s a complete kit. Assuming you have the bracket too.or just buy it from Subaru they’re cheap the older style kits only come with the pulley so if you don’t have the tensioner you have to buy a timing kit and tensioner.

Check for piston slap that’s benign and can be remedied without splitting the block. classic symptom is loud at start up and quiets as it cools down. Why do you say rod knock?

Hmmm. That’s smart. I have friends who ignore social media and have no accounts. I say “no accounts”, they create minimalistic, unidentifiable accounts to perform some basic tasks here and there. They don’t friend request or communicate with anyone they normally talk to, I don’t even know they’re account “names”. Might be an option for a one off project if you have to.

You probably know this but I think unfortunately the facebook XT6 group has the most traction of any online XT6 presence.

Nope. I'd plan on it being gone unless/until we get lucky.

Absolutely reputable. I, and many others, buy from them all the time and they post discount codes on this forum regularly. they’re a reseller of product, they don’t make anything. So they’d have the same parts any local store carries, and much more. They can’t verify or QC all of their suppliers so any issues with a supplier could be seen through rock auto just like any other store you buy from.

Ah. 1/2 quart is nothing and entirely benign. Good job. What you’re describing is common, keep checking and topping off just like you’re doing, oil loss over time isn’t a big deal if kept topped off and many oil leaks don’t progress quickly or cause immediate concern. I would take a peak so I know what it is. Probably valve cover or head gaskets on that car.

You know it's overfilled so you can correct it easy enough, drain or remove some oil, maybe it's frothing and bubbles in the oil reduce the efficacy of the switch. dump the contexts of the oil filter a couple of times, that's easier than trying to drain via the plug without dumping too much. Overfilled Subaru's don't get that code. The code is routinely fixed by replacing the switch. If overfilling freaked those switches out then two codes would be likely, not one. So my guess is it's not related to the oil change. or I would guess it's more likely that the oil change precipitated the failure of an already compromised switch. You can diagnose via the FSM or swap sensors from passengers to drivers side and see if the code moves with the sensor or stays in the same location. That being said - you didn't say how overfilled. if you dumped in 10 quarts...

a shop here welds that for $45 for the typical subaru breaks there. but most local shops (and i totally understand why) quote hundreds or 4 digits to replace the entire exhaust . you have to call or ask around for the guys willing to just toss it up on the lift for 30 minutes of welding and call it a day. it might be harder if you're in the PNW, around here every normal daily driver has this happen so it's common.

Replace the pressure switch. They're $20-$30 from Subaru and super easy - but don't over tighten them or you'll crack the receiving end threads. Yes the code references the solenoid, which is adjacent to the switch. Replace the switch first. The switch is a just a one wire harness plug and it screws into the engine directly. that's the part you want to buy and replace. The solenoids are held down by a 10mm bolt and are like $150-$250 from Subaru. These fail much less frequently than the switches, so it's not a good guess to blindly replace them. The code is often remedied by the oil switch - additionally it's only $20 instead of $200, easy to replace, and they're prone to hemorrhage oil all over the engine bay so it's just smart to replace them first or even preventatively. So there's almost no reason to not replace it unless you're competing for the guiness book of world records for being frugal. If that doesn't work - then test or replace the solenoid...after making sure you don't have rodent wiring damage, prior accident in that area damaging connectors or wiring, or it wasn't a shipped replacement engine (which are prone to having those solenoids and respective harnesses damaged during shipment due to location). If you still have a question - reread this post.

1. For my XT6’s I use the OEM pulleys and inject grease into them with a needle fitting on the grease gun. Lack of grease is the only failure mode. So give em new grease. 2. if I was doing an EA82 I’d buy whatever looks reasonable, check them annually and replace every 50k. 3. I think the EA82 pulleys all have common bearings - just install new bearings or have a shop (bearing shop, machine shop or some mechanics will do it) for you.

ignore the gunk. took years to build up, no symptoms, who knows what it is. nonissue. covers - fill the crack with epoxy or sealant. if one is rubbing then remedy it or replace it. you could file, drill, or cut the area that's rubbing out. if you're about to ditch it and get another one anyway - then you could try to locally heat it up and see if it becomes locally malleable...but not too much as you don't want to warp the rest of it. again - last ditch effort if you're about to throw it away anyway. replace the cam cap orings - they are for sure to be brittle and crack when you remove them. they always do by now if they've never been replaced which is common.

funny, 05-09's are all interchangeable but the kit says only 05-07. that could mean additional replacement/rebuild options for OEM 08-09's as well.

I don’t think 05s have rebuild kits. 99 is simpler than 05s and has fewer overall issues. 05 power steering pumps are garbage and replacement options are still worse than OEM theres a cheap option on amazon right now with a few good reviews. I bought one - it leaked and steering comes and goes and they sent another one. I just got it and and haven’t swapped it yet. If this one works, then great. If not then OEM used or new is next.

Subaru’s are easy. alternator 10 minutes. AC compressor 20 minutes Starter 30 minutes. Timing belts less than an hour. Headgaskets aren’t hard to do int the car at all - but there are two of them. Anyway it’s all easy - engine pulls straight out like an old full size truck, no transverse mounted squeeze shoehorn job. The wheel bearings suck sort of but they’re not prone to issues besides just being old of course. comes down to personality - if you’re averse to learning new then yeah, you’ll have ample room to dislike it. Otherwise they’re rather simple and there’s very few situations that requires a special tool, and none of those are in the engine bay. Everything except a valve job and full on rebuild in the engine bay is done with basic garage sockets and such. in the US an 87 loyale would be an EA82 with timing belt. Don’t know about CA. I think they’re carb until 87 and 88+ is SPFI. these don’t have headgasket “issues” but at this age, mileage and unknown history anything is possible. Look for new cooling parts as a sign of recent repair attempts chasing headgaskets. EA82 Headgaskets are easy to do in the car, not a big deal if you’re into wrenching. Who cares, you’ll be doing doing the clutch anyway. 33 year old car with high clutch getting dumped for cheap - adjust it but I’d be planning a clutch job and I’d wonder if that’s a main reason it’s on the market Carbs are trash. Just wait for a newer FI EA82 engine. a carb rebuild, replacement, or thorough adjust will get it working if you want to keep that archaic useless trash. Convert it to SPFI. springs - get aftermarket. Cheap and those springs are simple diameter length and spring rate type springs. Often Subaru springs don’t need replaced though they may be trash at that age if the struts and general abuse are all bad. I just bought a set last summer. Very inexpensive A quarter century ago those engines were great for inexpensive, predictable reliability (even if they are gutless dinosaur tech engines). easy to run high mileage reliably with them. Full timing belt job with new pulleys and crank/oil pump/cam reseal and plugs/wires/cap/rotor and they run 200,000 miles predictably with 50-60k timing belt changes. but they’re nearing 35 years old with unknown history so you have no idea what you’re getting. The 35 years of history and maintenance are more of the question mark than the car/engine. It’s a worthless 80s subaru, they rarely sit and get pampered for 35 years. And parts availability is worse - around here nowhere will carry things in stock. Which isn’t a huge deal if you’re on top of missntennace but few folks are that particular over inexpensive 1980s cars. So again - odds are stacked against it - but there’s definite possibility if you’re game depending what you’re after. B

If you live in a rust prone state or buying from dealers who source from rust free states (steady stream supply source and volume are primary concerns), then aim for newer. If rust isn’t an issue then age is largely immaterial. i suggest to friends an H6, or 2015/16 or newer due to the previous mentioned items as well as valve spring issues on early Crossteks...etc But I’m not sure when the cut off dates are for oil control rings and CVTs, and valve spring issues - so I’ll look more closely at years once someone I’m helping decides on a model and year.

Bearing. If needing backing plates suggests rust, have the blue wrench ready or sell tickets for your own personal WWE.

I too owe him beverages or cookies! He’s the bomb!

I remember you saying that...you mentioned taking them out later and looking fine I think. Maybe aftermarket split the difference and "XT6" kits were still suitable for EA82. I'll slap this thing up to an XT6 flywheel when I get home and see what it looks like.

Hmm, over the years forum members discussed machining EA82 flywheels to accept XT6 clutches...does that imply there's a difference in the clutches? This kit has Japan stamped on the parts and is 15 years old (maybe more), so if current offerings are one-size-fits-all, this may not be?

Is this an EA82 or XT6 clutch kit? It's 225 mm or 8 7/8" which is EA82/XT6 specs. I googled USMB but didn't see a way to differentiate them except the step difference on the flywheel - does that transcribe into a difference I can measure on the pressure plate? It came in a Rhino Pac 15-009 XT6 labelled box. Anyone know?

I printed that in font size 60 and hung it over my door way this morning. LOL That's exactly what happened. First Subaru in highschool. There were quite a few, but John and Huck taught me a ton 2 decades ago on old yahoo forums. Now they're members here and I've met them and been to their homes. I paid for college on my own and couldn't go anywhere if the subaru wasn't fixed inexpensively myself. Those guys helped me and i ended up enjoying working on subarus.