idosubaru

Unbolt and drop the exhaust manifold down and make sure there’s no signs of coolant leaks into the exhaust. This is what happens if the cracks are bad and extend into the exhaust. But this isn’t likely on nonturbo engines which weren’t abused or had ignored overheating. Normally, replace headgaskets and move along. I’ve seen countless dozens of cracks, I’m sure it happens but I’ve never seen a non-turbo EA or ER head crack all the way through. Nah, EA82s and ER27s crack and are benign, not EJs.

you got it. The order of assembly is BLOCK - HEAD - CAM CARRIER. Headgasket goes between block and head. Sealant and metal reinforced oring goes between cam carrier and head. #10 In your previous attaches diagram is the carrier. And # 11 is either the metal reinforced oring itself or a good illustration for where it goes. That diagram is already showing the head assembled to the block and no parts or numbers or labels so you don’t see both mating surfaces. It seems like your current progress is spot on, but decades old overflow tanks are usually grimy and nasty even on perfectly running engines. A one time observation isn’t a confirmation unless the tank was previously known to be very clean top to bottom. It seems you have enough symptoms, and know what you’re doing, but thought I’d mention it in case there was any uncertainty.

I'd work off the Subaru FSM and call it a day. I assume the alldata stuff should be similar or the same? The NA Subaru's aren't that tricky, don't require special tools or processes, if you're already accustomed to a shop environment then this won't be hard except that it's all new and maybe a relatively steep learning curve and totally unfamiliar if you're used to another brand. I guess you might want crank and cam hold down tools but Subaru's are routinely easy to work around and get off without them. If the CVT is like previous Subaru transmissions, make sure the torque converter is fully seated. If the engine is installed and the converter isn't fully seated the auto trans oil pump will crack. But maybe you're already familiar with that in toyota world? Anyway it's probably the most common costly goof up.

What he said, many things aren't the same. If you don't care about ABS then the front axles and knuckles swap. The ABS is different as Numbchux said, but the parts all physically bolt up and work fine, so the ABS just won't work depending what you're doing. If the later 2001 tone ring taps onto the 98 axles then you can reuse those 98 axles with the 2001 tone ring, in the 2001 outback. I've never checked but they look like that could work and it's routine to remove the tone ring to use 2001 axles in 1998 vehicles. The 2001 axle boots have better materials and design and are newer, so most folks are going that way, not using 98's on 2001's. Front struts and front and rear brakes can swap. PCV valve is the same. That's about it. Nothing engine, trans, computer, body, rear suspension wise.

There were adjustable cam gear threads on here with pictures years ago. Good chance it’s the same person.

1998 and earlier 2.2 outback or Impreza OBS.

the good news is nothing can really be done to that car so you can do whatever you want and have the same end results...or a little worse...or imperceptibly better. Not worth it. that is One of the best cars Subaru made for reliability. Use that for experiences (hobbies friends road trips), build a career, learn basic mechanics, save cash and pay cash for everything later and later you’ll be miles ahead of throwing away money on upgrades now. A car doesn’t make a person cool, no matter how much it may look or seem like it. There is no shortage of cool a55 people not defined by a car. There’s infinite ways to get a thrill which are more interesting than pushing a gas pedal. Wow, a person can push a gas pedal - that’s cute. LMAO

The center diffs fail regularly enough there has to be a write up and video for that. That requires removal of the rear extension housing. search for manual trans VLSD replacement or center diff replacement.

Ah you meant front axles. Got it, I thought you meant rears.

That's confusing - there's no need to do all that rear axle juggling. Once the rear driveshaft is disconnected the rear wheels are out of the transmission equation. Just like you mentioned towing with a tow dolly and the rear driveshaft disconnected but with no mention of rear axles there.

Yeah rust starts to make things a loosing battle, choose carefully. There's not too much that's problematic for what you need, the exhaust but those typically have rusty/seized fasteners.

same deal. they're basically the same transmission with different final drive and some tweaking for VDC. a couple times i've towed them in neutral with the engine running to circulate ATF. not ideal or repeatable but might work in some situations.

pads installed backwards. pictures might help - take pictures of both sides of the rotor before you pull the pad from the caliper bracket so we can see what it's doing.

https://www.sjrlift.com/collections/ea81/products/4-ea81

You’re fine - just bleed them waaaaay more. I’m talking 64 ounces of fluid sometimes I’ve seen 32 ounces not be enough. Just keep going. When that much is drained and introduces air throughout the entire system, it can take way more fluid to drain them than other brake work.

Double check timing marks make sure they're dead on for both sides. That make a much larger difference than tensioning the tensioner pulleys, so if it's that bad i'd expect that. If it's not idling right then check the throttle plate for sticking and the idle control valve for operation or clogging. It's been awhile since I looked at the EA's but the ER's by this age frequently need replaced or cleaned. They gum up and stick and need cleaned or just fail with age. Get the FSM and follow the tensioner procedures. I attached one side shown here. Put tension on the cam sprocket as you tighten the tensioner pulley bolts. Do both sides. I don't think this should be causing low power and/or idling issues though. I've installed them without tensioning the cam's and they run just fine...but there's more things at play here so who knows.

AT or MT? That appears to be MT but something about the angle or left over/missing parts is confusing me. If it's an AT you can potentially swap in a new rear extension housing without dropping or replacing the trans. And a new driveshaft of course. You can't put an MT in FWD. If it's an AT, If the back is busticated then it's going to puke ATF and not be able to run without fluid. If somehow you put tourniquet on your AT then yes you can force it into FWD mode. Either by installing a FWD fuse (if equipped) or forcing it into "locked" 4WD (disconnect power to the rear solenoid or give it full voltage, and driving it like that with the driveshaft missing it'll only drive the front wheels (assuming the garbage rear can handle it. If it's not too far away just pull it with a tow strap/chain/rope late/early when there's no traffic.

It looks like 2010+ FSM's no longer carry the body sections - they are a separate "Body Repair Manual"? Has anyone ever seen these or bought them?

Hard to say. probably driveshaft but better diagnostics are in order driveshaft will get worse and is troublesome if it does.

If you’re in rust prone areas lean towards newer over miles, etc. Another option - look for one that needs headgaskets and have them done on your watch. Can get a better deal and better end product. Then you can verify reputable shop, warranty,Subaru gaskets, heads resurfaced, valve cover gaskets, plugs, PCV valve, complete Subaru timing kit and you’ve got a good 100,000 mile maintenance free engine. $3,000-$4,000 car then $3k-$4k for work and you’re in budget.

It could but practically, no. the system senses incorrect pressures and shuts down. A stock, working system shouldn’t overpressurize to the point of causing issues. Reconditioned compressor is most likely problem. Used OEM is better than aftermarket here. Subaru AC systems are robust and simple enough I wouldn’t install any aftermarket or reconditioned unit. Install a $35 used a Subaru compressor, replace the two Compressor side orings, add two cans of refrigerant and it’ll last until you’re done with the car. www.car-part.com for used compressors. They all ship. why was the compressor replaced anyway ? It’s often replaced due to the two $1 orings I mentioned earlier. I see it all the time. “I was quoted $500 for a new compressor”......Bring it to me - here let me replace those two $1 orings in 15 minutes and dump in 2 cans of refrigerant and you’re out $30 instead.

you can but it's kind of a waste of time. simpler to sell the 99 and buy an MT. if you have the skills to do that swap, then you can simply sell and buy and be years/miles/$ ahead and it'll take less time. swap the trans, driveshaft, shifter assembly, hydrualic clutch hoses/reservoir, pedal cluster, and rear differential. and if you want these to work, or match then cruise, instrument cluster, and center console trim. 98 is Phase I DOHC and 99 is Phase II SOHC so the engines aren't interchangeable. the MT i think should swap but i think speed sensors may have changed, maybe went from cable to electronic. i dont' think it's a deal breaker but been awhile since i've been into 90's stuff.

No. Reuse them. Subaru says so in the FSM. Subaru gaskets and reuse the bolts. head prep, cleaning and lubricating threads and proper torque is where you want to pay attention. If you don’t want to clean the old ones or they’re pitted and damaged, get new ones. I’ve never replaced head bolts, I did like once 10 years ago on some outlier engine

Verify. Originally that had a single port exhaust, but you're thinking dual. First task is to look and take a photo or verify this. Could have easily had an engine swap....or three.