idosubaru

nevermind -i think i have this figured out.

that it's a manual makes more sense, i was thinking AWD auto but i don't know why. is it FWD or AWD? i'd still be very surprised to see an EJ motor get 40mpg even FWD MT. what are the sticker specifications for this vehicle? a few select older generation soobs are capable of getting 40+ mpg. (88-91 FWD manual XT's and justy's, and probably a few others).

don't touch the a/c. i posted in your other thread. a/c compressor swings out of the way (on ALL subaru engine removals and installs, this is standard practice) so you can pull the engine and install a new engine without ever breaking or discharging your a/c. your 2.5 a/c BRACKET will bolt right up to your 2.2. when you install the 2.2 the a/c compressor will sit in the same bracket it used to sit in...just on top of the 2.2 instead of the 2.5.

don't mess with the A/C. do not discharge it. swing the a/c compressor out of the way with all the lines still connected(this is true of ANY subaru engine swap...even if you're installing the same motor), this isn't 2.2/2.5 swap specific. there is just enough slack in the a/c lines to allow you to hold the compressor out of the way and pull the engine out without ever discharging the system. what you'll want is to retain the a/c bracket off the 2.5 motor and install it on your 2.2. it'll bolt right up and your a/c compressor will fit right where it once was, inside the same bracket/holder just on top of a different motor. don't break the a/c lines!!!!! on the power steering i believe it's the same thing, keep all the power steering pump brackets and lines out of the 2.5 just in case. i forget what exactly you'll need, but best to have it all just in case.

i would never recommend replacing an internal transmission filter on a 4EAT. first, i've pulled a bunch of them and the screens have never even had a spec of anything on them and they all had over 100,000 miles that i've pulled. before you get all testy with me, realize that it's not even a filter. if it were called a "screen" like it really is, people would be less apt to replace them. your fuel pump also has a screen in it, that noone ever cleans or replaces. no need to debate with me that fuel and ATF are different, i realize this, but my point is that it's not a true filter. so for something at 40,000 it's definitely pointless to replace, particularly with the addition of the screw on filters in 1998. the screw on's i would definitely replace, it's sitting right there so why not. and a previous poster brings up a good point, the transmission pan (and engine oil pan) are tricky. it's not that uncommon for them to leak after being reinstalled. droppping the pan gives you very little. you'd have to disassemble the entire transmission to actually drain it out, that's why they use flushes. the fluid is held in large quantities in the torque converter, valve bodies and other areas where removing the pan can't address. there are two common accepted practices for ATF. either drain and refill multiple times (that's what i do) or have it flushed (either at a shop or rig up a system to do it yourself - i've done that before as well). dropping the pan is not at all necessary unless you had some serious transmission issues and want to check it out. good way to get ATF in your hair....nice!

in the USRM the 5 lug swap post has this: i'm wondering if i can get a non-turbo EA82 trans to work. based on this i can swap EA82 and XT6 axle bits to get what i want? i read somewhere that these axles weren't compatible, does someone know for sure if this is possible?

good point frank. i was still looking for some generic info like this though. i had no idea when the EA82 came out and when FI was a possibility. now i have some general idea of when the mix years are at least. i'm an XT6 man, so EA stuff is a little confusing to me sometimes.

do all EA82 carbed vehicles have the Hitachi carb's or do some come with a different and better carb? i will try to avoid them but if it's a great deal i'll get whatever i can to help these people out. thanks for the feedback matt, i'm looking for something in the 100,000 miles or less range so you're probably right i can leave well enough alone. (but i'm still going to try to avoid getting them one...)

i have a serious problem with hating carbs, i should see a doctor. if i'm giving it a complete tune up and more i'm just thinking that's one of the weak links after that...and i hate them. hate hate hate. i hate my lawn mowers, i hate my chainsaws, i hate my tillers, my tractors...sorry, i hate them! FI all the way. i'm like opposite of the old guys that always complain about "those crazy new japanese computer controller cars".

report back and let us know what you get. it's not about believing or not believing. it's about the most logical possibility. the most logical explanation is that something was jacked up and the simplest explanation seems to be the gas pump was cut off at different times for the pre and post fill ups. that is much more likely than you having the only bone stock EJ engine in the world that gets 40 mpg at 75mph.

very good points to make but i'm fairly certain they are all incorrect for this swap. don't mess with the intake manifold, drop the engine in as a complete assembly and plug it in. power steering and a/c are you main issues, and they are quite minor. search the forum here, there are specific threads and success stories with this swap, you will see that Josh is correct that the intake manifolds do not swap...but it does not matter as the 2.2 intake manifold, plugs and wires plug right in with no issues, wiring, ECU or otherwise. you are right to be concerned and these are good points, i suggest doing a search and finding specific threads about these issues and specific threads detailing a swap that was done, you will find that what i have just said holds true. i don't have the time to look over the details and think about this, but you wo'nt have any engine interchange issue -the only issue i see is with the transmission if you're planning on swapping auto's. EJ series auto trans are a pain to interchange, i'm not well versed in that except to say that's it's confusing.

yeah, no go on a SPFI swap. i'm willing to help out but they need a car and don't have that kind of $, and i don't have the time.

trying to help a guy and his family out with a reliable soob. i'm looking at a 1986 4WD wagon. probably has a freaking carb which i've never worked on. i'll be installing all new timing belts, water pump, oil pump, seals, battery cables, etc.... but not knowing anything about the carb, what are the best options? are they fairly reliable? how expensive is a new carb, is that overkill? from the pic's can anyone verify it's a carb'ed EA82 and what 4WD manual transmission this 1986 would have?

depending on your time and what parts run in your area, price out both options (time and $) and weigh the decision. i'd probably go for the trans swap on anything over a few years old.

tank was probably overfilled at the prior pump, either knowingly or not. no way it's getting 39mpg. even an EJ FWD manual driven at 55 mph in perfect conditions would be hard pressed to get that.

so then the question becomes - do all 87 EA82's have FI?

does an 86 wagon have carb or FI? what years/models have FI EA82's? i know a family that needs a car really bad and has no cash. i'm going to pick them up a soob (probably an EA82 vehicle) and give it all new timing belts, water pump, seals, etc.

have the clutch cable readjusted or checked. probably not the problem, but i'd want to make sure before thinking it's something much worse.

Subaru can't tell you what size they are? i don't think they varied that much by model/year. i know all the EJ rear extension housings are interchangeable so it shouldn't be that hard to figure out for the dealer at least. how about getting a used extension housing from another one, that's probably what i'd do. taking care of the tires and fluid changes and they shouldn't give you any problems. you have torque bind i assume? you've tried a couple ATF changes and all your tires match?

awesome information. in the middle of moving and i have no idea where my FSM's are, i'm hoping i find them again some day as i have them on a little tiny CD.

since i know you, i know you've already done this but might check/change the trans/gear fluids since you've gotten it. i've heard of people running the manual box with ATF for a bit, but never done it myself. all the wheels/tires are the same size and spin freely when lifted (check the fronts)? do you think maybe the car sat for this extended period because of the binding?

i've bought it at advanced auto parts in Maryland. didn't see it in on the shelves in west virginia, but that doesn't mean it wasn't there.

there's also an XT in georgia (or used to be) with a rotary engine in it as well. i think there's even a picture of it on the Yahoo! XT6 group, but that's hardly used any more.

2.2 liter automatic. advanced auto parts said EGR code for the check engine light that just came on. unfortunately i wasn't there to see it and actually ask what the code number was. i'm not familiar with EGR's since the XT6 doesn't have one, should i install a new one? i'd do a search but since the search function doesn't do 3 letter words i'm kind of stuck.

that's decades old information and not the issue. manufacturers can still demand certain quality control and specifications. just because they outsource doesn't bind them to any one particular supplier and take away their control. far from it. do you think wal-mart has cheap prices because they "know where to look" and get products from some alien source that other places don't know about? no, they are directly involved in setting the prices and tell manufacturers what they want to sell stuff for. same with OEM stuff...they can dictate to some extent what quality the product is. but i'm with you, i'll use non OE stuff sometimes. i don't think it's a big deal, though i'll stick with Subaru on the interference engine timing belts and water pumps. everyone draws their lines in different places and there's nothing wrong with that. not sure why this turns into an argument? does it matter what muffler you use? not really? timing belts, maybe. where you draw the line in between depends on lots of factors and personality apparently!