idosubaru

no resistors, hard wired and no chewing up on clutch packs here and i'm fairly certain i was one of the first to do this on this board back in 2003. that car had 220,000+ miles on it when i retired it due to rust this year...transmission ran and shifted perfect and i pulled it to keep as a spare for my new daily driver, probably had about 50,000 miles with the switch installed. i'll keep saying it so long as "chewed up clutch packs" are propogated....only ONE person has responded to say they had an issue and they left the switch on, clearly not intended usage. i'll say it again...has anyone had an actual failure? still only response is from someone that left the switch on....noone is going to recommend that!

hello...hello...anybody there? type of driving, city/highway, condition of motor...etc all make a difference. EA82's are capable of 40+ mpg (XT models running all highway miles). EJ22's are capable of 35 mpg...are capable of..note the language, no stock V8 driven normally is going to come close to that. all soobs don't get that, depends on transmission, condition of vehicle, how it's driven and what kind of driving is being done. but the bottom line is that a V8 can't get mid 30's or better. if gas mileage is a concern...get a soob that gets good gas mileage, they exist. V8's that do that do not. that there are soobs getting under 26 mpg means what...nothing. it means there are people driving there cars short distances, city driving, driving them hard, they aren't in good tune. your buddy with the V8 isn't getting 26 mpg driving in stop and go traffic or off-roading a 15 year old motor with 200,000 rough miles on it...that's likely his best, highway mileage and an engine in excellent condition. compare apples to apples...or at least something round next time you're trying to make a point. yes a V8 was put in an XT6....barely.

that's situationally dependent. it's correct in his situation because he's not using it. it's an added load on the system that isn't being used. if mythbusters ran one without an a/c system at all and the other with an a/c system...everything else being equal, the one without the a/c would have ran out of gas last. remove the power steering too and install a manual rack or an XT6 elecrical power steering rack. you'll need a belt for the alternator and water pump and that's it.

i guess this is semantics and depends how you define "similar" but if you can pull one motor out and stick another in without any engine or electrical modifications at all...i wouldn't call the engines "very different". the 2.5 was designed from the 2.2 as the starting point and many things are interchangeable. on a similar note you can have the engine rebuilt with OEM Subaru over sized pistons. increasing combustion chamber size does not effect the ECU's ability to monitor incoming air and adjust fuel supply accordingly. read up on ECU's to understand that concept and that ECU's don't care what the engine is...is all about the ECU's ability to monitor air and control fuel. that's how megasquirt works...on any engine, use the same sensors and it's applicable to almost any engine. he states his mileage is 23 mpg. read up on all the gas mileage threads. i don't know your driving style, conditions, engine condition, etc but that's well in EJ range depending on all the possible variables. that's about what i get in my daily driving 1997 OBS with a 2.2.

where did you get the bushings and how hard was it to do? did you have much problem getting the old out or new in? was it just one rubber bushing per side or were there more pieces to replace than that?

i didn't see this rebate? did you get it?

yep, even the first gen 4EAT in the XT6's do this (at least mine does). holds gears longer by design. get a remote start and warm it up, that's one way to prevent it from doing this!

well put nipper. i would think it goes without saying that's certainly not a toy, very rarely needed by most people and i even rarely use it. normally the TCU does do a fine job. when i do use it, it is needed and i'm always on ice, snow, mud, streams. the worst is low speed or sitting in very slick/steep terrain where the intial spinning (just before TCU detects slip and does anything about it), starts a rut or sliding that you don't want. in those kinds of conditions it is very helpful. or when pulling someone out of snow/mud, for the same reasons you don't want to even start slipping, as you won't have the traction to get them out. of course i'll try first without it in those situations, stop and lock up if necessary.

that does suck, but that's not failure due to normal and intended useage though. if i improperly install subaru plug wires and they give a CEL right away, i don't say that Subaru wires cause problems. not saying you installed anything wrong but the mod failed, either wiring, connections or the switch wasn't up to the task? i just used an off the shelf radio shack switch. i used it once for about 50 miles, but that was in some serious doo-doo of the white variety, no road to speak of. i have a light installed so i can see it light up if it's accidentally hit (which has happened). so i can turn it off. i thought about wiring in the manual XT6 diff lock button since it would look stock, but went against that notion because it's so easy to accidentally turn it on.

if the oil pan gasket is needed, do it before it's installed. they require the engine to be unbolted and lifted...it's a real PITA to do in the car. it's not that bad but is time consuming and requires lifting/supporting the engine for clearance. i've always reused flexplates, assuming the right one is used and they are installed properly and the bolts are properly torqued there shouldn't be a problem.

i don't recall any failures resulting from this modification. can we link to actual threads or will someone post about failures? i haven't had any and i've actually done this mod years ago and know others that have actually done it as well. my experience is mostly with first gen 4EAT's in the XT6 which never have torque bind, DS C, or clutch pack failure. the newer gen 4EAT's have these issues no matter if you play with the wiring or not! do a search and see all the threads that come up....without any switches being installed. more interesting is that the first gen 4EAT's (like in the XT6) experience far less issues with TB and other clutch pack/duty solenoid C issues. actually i can't recall any in my history of owning 15, working on others, being on the XT6 boards for like a decade. being older and more prone to have been abused they should experience more issues...but instead they have none? the TCU is not adequate for my usage and does hinder functionality for me, so there's no need to debate whether or not this mod is necessary, that's rediculous.

why do you need a pan seal? as the past several posts have suggested, it is pointless to remove it under normal circumstances. if it's to replace the screen (which is not recommended to do and i promise yours will be spotless), the new screen will come with a new pan gasket. otherwise subaru should supply that.

well yes, it is second to not finding a good deal on an FI soob. every carb problem i had was fixed by just disassembling, cleaning and putting back together so i can't complain too much. but i still hate even doing that and of course those weren't cars and were probably more likely to get clogged and dirty with debris unlike an underhood carb. he needs the car quickly so the issue will mostly be 4WD/2WD and he'd like a wagon or OBS of some sort for space. i have overcome my fear and will get a carb if available.

yep, i already admitted that. if i wanted to debate i might suggest it's lack of time, i like to learn but just don't feel like putting the time into carbs.

nevermind -i think i have this figured out.

that it's a manual makes more sense, i was thinking AWD auto but i don't know why. is it FWD or AWD? i'd still be very surprised to see an EJ motor get 40mpg even FWD MT. what are the sticker specifications for this vehicle? a few select older generation soobs are capable of getting 40+ mpg. (88-91 FWD manual XT's and justy's, and probably a few others).

don't touch the a/c. i posted in your other thread. a/c compressor swings out of the way (on ALL subaru engine removals and installs, this is standard practice) so you can pull the engine and install a new engine without ever breaking or discharging your a/c. your 2.5 a/c BRACKET will bolt right up to your 2.2. when you install the 2.2 the a/c compressor will sit in the same bracket it used to sit in...just on top of the 2.2 instead of the 2.5.

don't mess with the A/C. do not discharge it. swing the a/c compressor out of the way with all the lines still connected(this is true of ANY subaru engine swap...even if you're installing the same motor), this isn't 2.2/2.5 swap specific. there is just enough slack in the a/c lines to allow you to hold the compressor out of the way and pull the engine out without ever discharging the system. what you'll want is to retain the a/c bracket off the 2.5 motor and install it on your 2.2. it'll bolt right up and your a/c compressor will fit right where it once was, inside the same bracket/holder just on top of a different motor. don't break the a/c lines!!!!! on the power steering i believe it's the same thing, keep all the power steering pump brackets and lines out of the 2.5 just in case. i forget what exactly you'll need, but best to have it all just in case.

i would never recommend replacing an internal transmission filter on a 4EAT. first, i've pulled a bunch of them and the screens have never even had a spec of anything on them and they all had over 100,000 miles that i've pulled. before you get all testy with me, realize that it's not even a filter. if it were called a "screen" like it really is, people would be less apt to replace them. your fuel pump also has a screen in it, that noone ever cleans or replaces. no need to debate with me that fuel and ATF are different, i realize this, but my point is that it's not a true filter. so for something at 40,000 it's definitely pointless to replace, particularly with the addition of the screw on filters in 1998. the screw on's i would definitely replace, it's sitting right there so why not. and a previous poster brings up a good point, the transmission pan (and engine oil pan) are tricky. it's not that uncommon for them to leak after being reinstalled. droppping the pan gives you very little. you'd have to disassemble the entire transmission to actually drain it out, that's why they use flushes. the fluid is held in large quantities in the torque converter, valve bodies and other areas where removing the pan can't address. there are two common accepted practices for ATF. either drain and refill multiple times (that's what i do) or have it flushed (either at a shop or rig up a system to do it yourself - i've done that before as well). dropping the pan is not at all necessary unless you had some serious transmission issues and want to check it out. good way to get ATF in your hair....nice!

in the USRM the 5 lug swap post has this: i'm wondering if i can get a non-turbo EA82 trans to work. based on this i can swap EA82 and XT6 axle bits to get what i want? i read somewhere that these axles weren't compatible, does someone know for sure if this is possible?

good point frank. i was still looking for some generic info like this though. i had no idea when the EA82 came out and when FI was a possibility. now i have some general idea of when the mix years are at least. i'm an XT6 man, so EA stuff is a little confusing to me sometimes.

do all EA82 carbed vehicles have the Hitachi carb's or do some come with a different and better carb? i will try to avoid them but if it's a great deal i'll get whatever i can to help these people out. thanks for the feedback matt, i'm looking for something in the 100,000 miles or less range so you're probably right i can leave well enough alone. (but i'm still going to try to avoid getting them one...)

i have a serious problem with hating carbs, i should see a doctor. if i'm giving it a complete tune up and more i'm just thinking that's one of the weak links after that...and i hate them. hate hate hate. i hate my lawn mowers, i hate my chainsaws, i hate my tillers, my tractors...sorry, i hate them! FI all the way. i'm like opposite of the old guys that always complain about "those crazy new japanese computer controller cars".

report back and let us know what you get. it's not about believing or not believing. it's about the most logical possibility. the most logical explanation is that something was jacked up and the simplest explanation seems to be the gas pump was cut off at different times for the pre and post fill ups. that is much more likely than you having the only bone stock EJ engine in the world that gets 40 mpg at 75mph.

very good points to make but i'm fairly certain they are all incorrect for this swap. don't mess with the intake manifold, drop the engine in as a complete assembly and plug it in. power steering and a/c are you main issues, and they are quite minor. search the forum here, there are specific threads and success stories with this swap, you will see that Josh is correct that the intake manifolds do not swap...but it does not matter as the 2.2 intake manifold, plugs and wires plug right in with no issues, wiring, ECU or otherwise. you are right to be concerned and these are good points, i suggest doing a search and finding specific threads about these issues and specific threads detailing a swap that was done, you will find that what i have just said holds true. i don't have the time to look over the details and think about this, but you wo'nt have any engine interchange issue -the only issue i see is with the transmission if you're planning on swapping auto's. EJ series auto trans are a pain to interchange, i'm not well versed in that except to say that's it's confusing.