idosubaru

in general you should be good to go for 100,000 miles. i'd have new timing belt and water pump installed if you want to keep it that long and the pulleys checked/replaced. if it's a japanese engine with unknown history/condition/miles and has a pre 2000 2.5 headgasket in it, i wouldn't trust it. i bought a JDM engine this year and it had be headgaskets. all they'd give me was new headgaskets, i'd have to install them...but i never even received the gaskets. another regular member of xt6.net bought a JDM engine this year and also has a bad headgasket right now. i will not buy another one, but people on here have success stories and i'm sure they'll pipe up. i'll rebuild my own, buy CCR or get a used one first next time.

i can't find anything on "PG", who/what is that? i guess it stands for some company i've never heard of? searches give me nothing but page of the 2007 WRX BS.

yep, i've swapped inhibitor switches before, they are very simple. just go easy as there are some plastic parts i believe (though they could vary across models).

sucks real bad but you have some options. the ideal option is just to have a leak down test done to verify where it's leaking - heads or rings. if it's just the head gasket/valves then replace the head gaskets and have a valve job done. it will run great and run forever once that's done at least. the cheap option would be to look for a used engine. i haven't looked into the details of the EJ22T but i know on the EA82 series engine (older generation subaru's) you could just buy a non-turbo EA82 block and install it in the EA82T turbo vehicle. there are some issues, but basically it can be done fairly easily. the benefit to doing this is that the non-turbo blocks are a dime a dozen, very cheap, easy to find and typically don't have many issues. and you could just buy a long block (block, heads and all) and drop it right in. the EJ22T may be hard to score in good condition and for a decent price, but it's worth looking around. once it's said and done, make sure your radiator is golden, replace the water pump and hoses clamps and turbo gaskets to make sure you won't loose any coolant and overheat the engine. if you keep this thing from overheating this motor will see 250,000 miles easy and you'll be happy you kept it 5 years from now.

gear grinding is not common. i've seen a number have the minor grind going into gear from 2nd to 3rd that nipper mentioned, but that doesn't cause issue, i've seen them go 100,000+ miles like that. in general you'll have to replace less manual trans versus auto. but subaru auto's are very very good in the durability department, if you get one that hasn't been abused and take care of it, it is unlikely you'll have to replace it. manuals are nice but still require maintenance and if you drive them hard you'll likely go through at least one clutch replacement. resurface flywheel, new clutch, new pressure plate, new pilot and throw out bearings...it's not a cheap job. auto trans are not hard to find at reasonable prices used either, so i wouldn't hesitate to install a used one (i've done it before), not that that is rarely a problem though.

the engine is probably fine. maybe new headgaskets to inspect and replace any valves and you're done. did leak and run out of oil or anything? did you shut it off quickly after the accident, if so it's fine and plenty fixable. like shawn said, replace the bad valves, slap on new headgaskets and on your way.

oh yeah, that's a smoking deal. can't do that with an XT6......

can you post pictures, i didn't see an easy way to get the seal off and feel comfortable getting it back in tight enough that it wouldn't come off. what retains it once you remove and reinstall? it's just pressed on? i'll give this a try, i have enough extras to play with that's for sure!

easiest way is to replace the pulleys with new. a cheaper alternative is to have a shop press in new bearings. the cheapest alternative is to repack the bearings, which i have documented here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50430 i would not do this on an inteference engine so i typically don't post this link in the newer generation thread. the interference engines are newer and worth new stuff anyway. as for not being any benefit to this, that couldn't be further from the truth . if you've done the process i've demonstrated above, the bearings feel brand new after you're done. i'm no bearing expert but with greasing at every t-belt change i feel the bearings will last the life of the vehicle. they loose grease and the grease gets old/dirty. regreasing helps tremendously. now...that it's done properly and doesn't all blow out or bust the seal...this is all assuming it's done right of course. i have never attempted to remove the seals as edrach posted, didn't know that was possible, from the disassembly that i've done of the pulleys i wouldn't attempt any more than you have to. they are robust and well built, just give them fresh grease and move on.

on an interference engine it isn't a bad idea to replace all the idlers and pulleys. if you don't want you have a few options. buy them all but only replace the ones that aren't tight and feel like good pullies. having new pullies is a good idea if you've never had one before, to tell how tight and smooth and soundless they are. return the ones you don't need. the last option, besides not replacing any, is to at least have on hand or replace the cogged pulley. those tend to be the first ones to start making noise and loosing their smoothness in my experience (and others i've talked to as well).they are expensive but if you don't replace them, you're expecting them to make it to the next timing belt....250,000 miles. another option that few take is to take your pullies to a shop and have new bearings pressed in them, much cheaper that way but requires taking them to a shop and little extra work. on the EA82's, ER27's i regrease the existing bearings but i wouldn't do that on an interference/100,000 mile timing belt engine. your list looks good to me.

no, i still get the TCU error flashing, but i don't care for a number of reasons. first of all i have my shift resistor pack unplugged to firm up the shifts and lesson the lag between 2nd and 3rd gear. shifts much better that way. i could splice in a resistor there but i don't care too. some companies sell the $50 "shift kit" that basically does the same thing but probably eliminates the light and actually "disconnects" the stock pack only at certain times. i say just unplug it, but that's me. i can always plug the existing resistor back in if i need to see if there's a "real" code. so mine already flashes, having the duty c switch doesn't make a difference. it only flashes 16 times at start up and no more. if it was like the CEL and stayed on all the time, then i'd do something about it. actually it was replaced at 150,000 miles, but that was before installing either the duty C switch or disconnecting the shift pack or messing with any transmission electronics, didn't know anything about that back then. i'm guessing that my time in college spent buying used tires wasn't good on the AWD trans (whoops!). the used trans took 70,000+ miles and the shift pack and duy C switch without any issues and still works great. i have it as a spare now. is someone going to document, post a link or post here about an actual failure due to this mod?

no resistors, hard wired and no chewing up on clutch packs here and i'm fairly certain i was one of the first to do this on this board back in 2003. that car had 220,000+ miles on it when i retired it due to rust this year...transmission ran and shifted perfect and i pulled it to keep as a spare for my new daily driver, probably had about 50,000 miles with the switch installed. i'll keep saying it so long as "chewed up clutch packs" are propogated....only ONE person has responded to say they had an issue and they left the switch on, clearly not intended usage. i'll say it again...has anyone had an actual failure? still only response is from someone that left the switch on....noone is going to recommend that!

hello...hello...anybody there? type of driving, city/highway, condition of motor...etc all make a difference. EA82's are capable of 40+ mpg (XT models running all highway miles). EJ22's are capable of 35 mpg...are capable of..note the language, no stock V8 driven normally is going to come close to that. all soobs don't get that, depends on transmission, condition of vehicle, how it's driven and what kind of driving is being done. but the bottom line is that a V8 can't get mid 30's or better. if gas mileage is a concern...get a soob that gets good gas mileage, they exist. V8's that do that do not. that there are soobs getting under 26 mpg means what...nothing. it means there are people driving there cars short distances, city driving, driving them hard, they aren't in good tune. your buddy with the V8 isn't getting 26 mpg driving in stop and go traffic or off-roading a 15 year old motor with 200,000 rough miles on it...that's likely his best, highway mileage and an engine in excellent condition. compare apples to apples...or at least something round next time you're trying to make a point. yes a V8 was put in an XT6....barely.

that's situationally dependent. it's correct in his situation because he's not using it. it's an added load on the system that isn't being used. if mythbusters ran one without an a/c system at all and the other with an a/c system...everything else being equal, the one without the a/c would have ran out of gas last. remove the power steering too and install a manual rack or an XT6 elecrical power steering rack. you'll need a belt for the alternator and water pump and that's it.

i guess this is semantics and depends how you define "similar" but if you can pull one motor out and stick another in without any engine or electrical modifications at all...i wouldn't call the engines "very different". the 2.5 was designed from the 2.2 as the starting point and many things are interchangeable. on a similar note you can have the engine rebuilt with OEM Subaru over sized pistons. increasing combustion chamber size does not effect the ECU's ability to monitor incoming air and adjust fuel supply accordingly. read up on ECU's to understand that concept and that ECU's don't care what the engine is...is all about the ECU's ability to monitor air and control fuel. that's how megasquirt works...on any engine, use the same sensors and it's applicable to almost any engine. he states his mileage is 23 mpg. read up on all the gas mileage threads. i don't know your driving style, conditions, engine condition, etc but that's well in EJ range depending on all the possible variables. that's about what i get in my daily driving 1997 OBS with a 2.2.

where did you get the bushings and how hard was it to do? did you have much problem getting the old out or new in? was it just one rubber bushing per side or were there more pieces to replace than that?

i didn't see this rebate? did you get it?

yep, even the first gen 4EAT in the XT6's do this (at least mine does). holds gears longer by design. get a remote start and warm it up, that's one way to prevent it from doing this!

well put nipper. i would think it goes without saying that's certainly not a toy, very rarely needed by most people and i even rarely use it. normally the TCU does do a fine job. when i do use it, it is needed and i'm always on ice, snow, mud, streams. the worst is low speed or sitting in very slick/steep terrain where the intial spinning (just before TCU detects slip and does anything about it), starts a rut or sliding that you don't want. in those kinds of conditions it is very helpful. or when pulling someone out of snow/mud, for the same reasons you don't want to even start slipping, as you won't have the traction to get them out. of course i'll try first without it in those situations, stop and lock up if necessary.

that does suck, but that's not failure due to normal and intended useage though. if i improperly install subaru plug wires and they give a CEL right away, i don't say that Subaru wires cause problems. not saying you installed anything wrong but the mod failed, either wiring, connections or the switch wasn't up to the task? i just used an off the shelf radio shack switch. i used it once for about 50 miles, but that was in some serious doo-doo of the white variety, no road to speak of. i have a light installed so i can see it light up if it's accidentally hit (which has happened). so i can turn it off. i thought about wiring in the manual XT6 diff lock button since it would look stock, but went against that notion because it's so easy to accidentally turn it on.

if the oil pan gasket is needed, do it before it's installed. they require the engine to be unbolted and lifted...it's a real PITA to do in the car. it's not that bad but is time consuming and requires lifting/supporting the engine for clearance. i've always reused flexplates, assuming the right one is used and they are installed properly and the bolts are properly torqued there shouldn't be a problem.

i don't recall any failures resulting from this modification. can we link to actual threads or will someone post about failures? i haven't had any and i've actually done this mod years ago and know others that have actually done it as well. my experience is mostly with first gen 4EAT's in the XT6 which never have torque bind, DS C, or clutch pack failure. the newer gen 4EAT's have these issues no matter if you play with the wiring or not! do a search and see all the threads that come up....without any switches being installed. more interesting is that the first gen 4EAT's (like in the XT6) experience far less issues with TB and other clutch pack/duty solenoid C issues. actually i can't recall any in my history of owning 15, working on others, being on the XT6 boards for like a decade. being older and more prone to have been abused they should experience more issues...but instead they have none? the TCU is not adequate for my usage and does hinder functionality for me, so there's no need to debate whether or not this mod is necessary, that's rediculous.

why do you need a pan seal? as the past several posts have suggested, it is pointless to remove it under normal circumstances. if it's to replace the screen (which is not recommended to do and i promise yours will be spotless), the new screen will come with a new pan gasket. otherwise subaru should supply that.

well yes, it is second to not finding a good deal on an FI soob. every carb problem i had was fixed by just disassembling, cleaning and putting back together so i can't complain too much. but i still hate even doing that and of course those weren't cars and were probably more likely to get clogged and dirty with debris unlike an underhood carb. he needs the car quickly so the issue will mostly be 4WD/2WD and he'd like a wagon or OBS of some sort for space. i have overcome my fear and will get a carb if available.

yep, i already admitted that. if i wanted to debate i might suggest it's lack of time, i like to learn but just don't feel like putting the time into carbs.