idosubaru

the rear input shaft seal is just like replacing any other seal. it's very easy but it is annoying to get to. on your back, under the vehicle with limited space. but otherwise not bad. all you need to do is drop the drive shaft, just unbolt the covering if it has one over the driveshaft, then unbolt the carrier bearing, that's the center support for the driveshaft that's held by maybe 2 17mm bolts to the underside of the car. that should give it enough play to pull out of the transmission. as a last resort even pulling the driveshaft out isn't hard at all, just a couple more bolts. once the drive shaft is pulled out, just carefully remove and install a new seal with properly oiled and greased like you would any other seal. take care not to scratch the metal surface when pulling the old one out and seat the other one perfectly straight. make sure the driveshaft end that slides into the trans is in good shape - no rust or anything that would damage your new seal.

that is the proper derivation of "dino". i find that oil from the carnivorous dinosaurs makes my car hard to start.

don't know specifics for your issue, but a loyale is an EA82 vehicle and would be placed in the "Older Generation" forum.

on an XT model, you don't do anything. if the CEL is on, you pop the trunk and the LED in the computer flashes the code, without connecting anything. the loyale doesn't work like this? do i have to use the connectors to be shown the code?

picked up a 92 loyale for a friend of mine. the CEL is on, where do i read the code? i'm always used to the computer being in the trunk, but this is a wagon. i'm guessing EGR code.

i am a drum brake moron, i'll have to defer to others on this one. my advice is swap to rear disc brakes.

thanks emily for putting in words what i knew to be true. i can not understand how this is such an issue? i've never had a problem installing these things, they've always been obvious i just can't recall from memory what makes it obvious.

i'm not sure what yo'ure asking. is your trans bad or you need 4WD? are you doing the work yourself or paying someone to do it. if yo'ure paying someone then get another subaru that's what you want. if you can do it yourself then get a donor vehicle for the swap. first is this a 3AT or a 4EAT? if it's a 3AT then swapping is going to be a very bad idea if you want to retain the auto trans. the 3AT is junk, the 4EAT is much better. the 3AT doesn't have wiring, computer and all that junk that the 4EAT has so swapping from a 3AT to a 4EAT would be a tricky task. assuming you currently have a 4EAT trans: swapping FWD to 4WD is labor intensive but possible. you'll need to swap the entire read end, axles, rear diff, crossmember, driveshaft, center carrier bearing (including drilling the two necessary holes for mounting if they aren't there). sometimes the fuel tanks need to be swapped as well for clearance of the 4wd bits. if it's an auto, the TCU may or may not be capable of working. my guess is yes it would work but i have no proof and you may need to swap a FWD TCU in place.

the impreza Outback Sport (OBS) is available with a 2.2 until 1999 or even later.

timing belts are easy. an independent shop can easily do this job. request a subaru timing belt and water pump if the independent shop is doing the job. they or you can order the parts from 1stsubaruparts.com or other online OEM parts retailers. follow nippers thoughts above.

vehicle, year...are you talking drum or disc brakes? drum i presume??

this comes up all the time and never gets good results, just oppinions and a few good links, that's why you didn't find anything. if you want info on oil, search google or bobistheoilguy and similar sites. you're asking the wrong question, what you're asking doesn't matter. the EA82 has HLA's in the valve train, the most important thing you can do with your oil is change it often. that is far more important than what brand you use. if the history is unknown, keep an eye on it and change it more often than you might normally do.

keep your eye out, there are really cheap deals out there too. i found Paraut water pumps at $8 each for the XT6 so i bought a ton of them. emily nailed it with the translations, they are fun!

get the EJ22 - 2.2 liter motor. type in "headgasket" on the search function rather than rehash all of that here. check for torqe bind when you're buying the car. after you get it, replace the ATF. do those two things and you got a stellar car. don't do those and you probably still have a stellar car, just a little more risky. you'll also want to take into consideration when the timing belts were last changed. if you end up with a 1997 or newer 2.2 liter motor or any 2.5 liter motor, they are interference engines, which means if the timing belt breaks very bad things happen inside the engine. and even for reliability you'll want to know when any motor has had the timing belt replaced. if the owner doesn't know you'll want to plan on that expesne right away - timing belt and possibly water pump depending on mileage. timing belt jobs can run up to $700 depending who's doing it and what all is being replaced.

look up headgasket or EJ25, use the search button and you'll find some information that's worthy of knowing prior to looking. modifying a non-turbo subaru engine for power is functionally a waste of time. if you want to spend alot of money, effort and time working on it to gain very minimal increases for fun and as a hobby then tear it up, but if you really want more power get a turbo. the EJ25's i've ridden in pull very nicely for daily driving duties.

new oil pumps solve this problem often. your HLA's may be sticking....just a guess of course. some ATF, MMO, seafoam in the oil may help. do a search on TOD, tick of death or seafoam and read up your options. if that doesn't work they'll need to be replaced. never use RTV on the oil pump. there are two tiny spots where the block halves come together...it's a zig-zag patter at 12 noon and 6 oclock behind the oil pump housing. it is a little "rough" here so that's why you put a dab of sealant there. technically you use anaerobic sealant, but these spots are so small RTV would certainly work. they require only a tiny amount of sealant - a pin drop. at each spot only.

and when was the last oil change? is it clean or dirty? changing the oil can quiet them as well (don't get your hopes up, but it can help).

read my post on the other oil pump TOD thread....a new oil pump can solve issues as well...i believe and explain that in the other thread. resealing is a good first step. and yes the ER27 uses the same pistons, HLA's and other parts as the EA82...it's just an EA82 with two more cylinders slapped on the end and some minor modifications. the internals are interchangeable.

i also think the oil pump housing can cause issues. some people have repeated instances of the mickey mouse gasket failing even after cleaninga nd installing a new one. it is only a guess, but i believe the aluminum housing of the oil pump is so thin that if it warps even a tiny amount it could prevent the housing from seating even a new gasket properly. my last two XT6's i've installed new oil pumps on and no issues at all. and as GD said - HLA's can be the culprit. if the sound is isolated to one cylinder, or one HLA then that's a solid indicator that it's possible HLA related and not oil supply related

was it proven to be original gaskets though?

calipers are soo easy to rebuild. it's a dust boot, circlip and seal for each piston, very simple. if it's only sticking, greasing the slides of the caliper may be the issue and not the actual caliper/piston itself. all you need is to clean the slides and regrease, have you checked that?

you need to fix this as soon as possible or look for another engine. i have pictures of heads...i lied, i have the heads in my garage, but no pic's..but heads that are run too long while leaking...they show significant..i mean chunks of metal missing at the leakage points and the block didn't look much better. it's not worth the risk considering how long and well this engine will run if fixed properly and timely.

try searching the forum "gas mileage" threads are everywhere...they creep up regularly. at the bottom left of this screen you're looking at is a "similar threads" list...check those out. then wear out that search button....

i agree entirely. but knowing is a good thing and the 03 and later models seem solid with few issues. it is annoying not being able to recommend 96-2002 soobs, i don't either - not without explaining the risks involved.

might want to try one higher grade in gas to keep that pinging down...but i'm not a "pinging" expert either. how old is the air filter? are you letting it "warm up"?