idosubaru

attached to the coil bracket, below the coil is a resistor. it's a standard item, all late model XT's and XT6's have them. i think if it's bad it wouldn't have any spark at all, but i'm not sure about that either as i've never seen one fail myself. have you checked grounds? aftermarket coils tend to be a headache....and i know people will pipe up, there are some that use them fine but the "new" aftermarkets fail waaaay more often than the original 20 year old stock units still motoring around today. how's the battery, got enouch juice? any other recent work done prior to this happening?

OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. it's the exact parts that were original on the vehicle, basically - what you would get if you bought parts from the dealer. NGK are the plugs originally installed in Subaru's so they are the OEM part and are available from your dealer for $30-$40 per set or the local parts store for $8 a set. same part.

i think that is vehicle specific. i've never owned one, but heard of some recall or something for a kit, specific to a very few year/model vehicles. this is probably yours and is not common to any other subaru's. a search on here would clarify this. but his 1996 definitely does not have a screw on filter. i usually drain, drive around a couple days then do it again. but cycling through the gears would work as well.

nice, thanks for being honest, i'll cancel my psych appointment. that's the ones i had already gotten. once josh chimed in, i got them right off. very easy.

thanks josh, worked like a charm. got them right off and the new ones installed. i figured it was way easier than i was making it!

i picked up a 1992 Loyale wagon with a/c, MT, PT4WD, 108,000 miles, in great condition. runs perfect, clutch is tight, SPFI, everything works. blue book value for tax purposes was $1,600. cars are worth what someone is willing to pay for them...i didn't pay anywhere close to that "blue book value"...or even half of that value. but i suspect i could sell it around here for about that. i suspect most users in the older generation forum do not pay top dollar for vehicles so you'll need to define what you mean by "how much is it worth?". worth to who? me, about $200. street value.....depends on your area, i suspect soobs would sell well in maine like they do in my area, $1,200.

since i've owned about 15 XT6's and worked on others i don't need to test them. my newest daily driver i just picked up this summer is doing it too...so i'm off to do this YET AGAIN. i've seen it about 10 too many times in the past decade and this fixes it every time without buying a new sensor. and to the question of cleaning the contacts - sure try it, but it's a waste of time. it will work temporarily for sure. maybe a month, 6 months, a year but it'll come back. that's what i did the first couple times i had to deal with this. tiny files, eyeglass screwdrivers...those really tiny microscopic kind work great at getting in there. there's no way to get it all out and if the system isn't sealed, it's going to happen again..just like it did the first time you needed to clean it. maybe you can grease it somehow and that will slow or stop the corrossion, but i like my current method it's the first and last time you'll ever do it.

EA82 timing belt sets go on ebay for $50-$60 sometimes, i just picked up a set last week. includes two timing belts, both tensioner pulleys and the sprocketed idler pulley. the same sets go for $150+ elsewhere...or $200+ at the parts stores. http://www.thepartsbin.com has good prices sometimes and their listings are always correct for what i search for. http://www.rockauto.com has the cheapest prices but be very careful on the parts, they'll list incorrect parts for the vehicle you select, really annoying. dealer parts for an EA82T is a very bad idea. there are two style of water pumps, easiest way if you're not sure is to remove yours and take it in to match or buy both and return the one you don't need locally. do a search, there are threads detailing the differences.

i bought the wipers that the catalog said i need, it's the entire blade, not just the rubber insert. how do you remove them? doesn't look like they're removable but there is a small plastic tab that looks like it's to be pressed for something. the owners manual is no help at all, just mentions replacing the rubber insert only. wipers are PITA. are all cars like this, or subaru just particularly sucks at windshield wipers?

CCR may be $3k, i don't know, he should price them out. 130,000 mile motor for $2,100 or a zero mile motor with a warranty for $3,000? i'd personally go the new engine route, you'd alleviate any concerns about cracked block, etc even though it's not likely in this case. AND - blown headgasket 2.5's sell for $500+, so you could come close to not paying much more at all. what's a couple hundred for a new motor, that's what i would do depending on the actual cost....but i could install the motor myself. CCR doesn't install motors, they'll sell you whatever you want. so if he wanted a 1995 2.2 liter he could buy that (probably a good deal cheaper than a 2.5??) and install it as well. others have bought 2.2's from CCR to replace a 2.5 from CCR. they sell engines, it's up to you to decide what to do with them.

do you know if he just plug and play swapped the engines? that would be crazy information to know if the 3.0 H6 plugged right up to EJ25 connectors.

well he just covered it but i'll second the slapping of the counter guy. unless canadian vehicles were different (don't think they were in this regard), the automatic transmission won't have an external filter on it unless it's a 98+. technically you will see references to a "filter", like say if you tried to order one at a parts store they would give you one. but, it's the internal filter and like john just said it's only a screen. do not replace it. you only need to change your fluid. you can either have a shop do a flush on it, or drain and refill 3 or 4 times yourself (that's what i and many others on the board do). draining one time still leaves alot of fluid in the valve body, torque converter, etc. trans fluid does'nt drain all to the pan like engine oil, so a couple changes or a flush are necessary. and you are very wise to change your trans fluid.

check the engine harness and plugs into the ECU. if they've ever been worked on before, it's possible a pin (or two) were bent when reinserting the plugs. unlikely, but it has happened before and is difficult to nail down. have you checked the pinouts at the ECU for continuity from these two sensors?

there's a product review forum, i suppose you can try that or ask a mod if that's an appropriate place for that kind of information. at $2,100, i think you might even be approaching the point where a brand new motor from CCR would be very close to that in price. and they're local as well.

i don't know if this SPFI has the hot wire style MAF or not, i think it does? if the car runs bad, hesitating and backfiring, remove the MAF and look at the hair thin wires. if one is broken, this will be your problem. if one wire breaks an XT6 will still run, but badly, i would assume other models would perform similarly. while you're in there, have a can of MAF sensor cleaner handy and if the wires are good, go ahead and clean them anyway. as for the idle air control, on the XT6, the IAC is always remedied by a simple cleaning. drench it internally with brake cleaner and it'll free right up. i've never seen one actually fail...i'm sure it's happened, but it's very uncommon.

WOW. that is definitely scrap, glad you didn't try to fix that!

if this is indeed a CTS code 21 issue then your contacts are at fault. dirt and corrossion is your problem, not the sensor. no need for any electrical measurements, this is a real easy fix. replacing the sensor is not the solution, though it may temporary alleviate it. i have a permanent fix to this recurring problem posted here: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=coolant+temperature+sensor+fix read through it and do as you see fit. i recommend the solder technique as there is no solid way to get the 20 year old stock harness connector back to acceptable condition on the ones i've seen.

i'd at least change the fluid and replace the filter (screw on filter for your model). doesn't cost much and has probably never been done. people often neglect ATF changes...they'll change their engine oil too often and completely neglect everything else! i can't promise anything but fresh ATF can make a big difference. are you sure the hesitation is transmission related? could be plugs and/or wires as well, it's possible they are original as well. be sure to use Subaru only wires and NGK plugs, the EJ25 is a sensitive engine.

very easy job...time escalates quickly if you have rusty bolts, sheared bolts or mess with the timing covers. rip the timing covers off and don't reuse them and your job gets lots easier. if you insist on retaining the timing belt covers, take some zip ties along so you don't have to reuse the stupid bolt/insert combo's in the covers. get skinny ones that can pass through an 8mm hole. if you're planning on doing the timing belts just to get home, you could install new belts and take a case of oil along. it's an easy job but start getting into a first time oil pump, water pump, cam seal, crank seal job and it's going to take you awhile most likely. if oil leakage is significant you'll want to address the leak right away, it will be the oil pump seal, crank seal or cam seals. you'll want to replace the crank seal, two cam seals (and o-ring, buy the cam seal kit, not just the cam seal), water pump, oil pump seal, oil pump gasket and oil pump o-ring. all of this stuff resides behind the timing belts and is fairly easy to do. also - a more common cause of timing belt failure than oil is a bad timing pulley bearing. check them all while you're in there and see if any are noisey or seized, i almost garauntee that none will be tight or feel anywhere close to new. this heats the belt and causes breakage very often as well. you can at least figure it out while yo'ure in there and source new pulleys or bearings or repack them at a later time. i just picked up a timing belt kit that came with 3 brand new pulleys (two tensioners and one sprocketed idler) for only $60.

search around and get one that's the same part number. the problem is pricing, it might be hard to find exactly the same part number for a reasonable price, if that's the case then i'd start experimenting. and post in the Parts Wanted Forum, someone may have the ECU you need. i wouldn't worry about the auto/manual issue, that won't end up being ECU specific issues. the reverse light deal is always an issue, but has nothing to do with the ECU. on the XT6 the ECU's are completely interchangeable across FWD, AWD auto and manual. ECU's have a billion different part numbers, but don't all have to match. they do need to be close though, but it's annoying figuring out which ones are compatible by part number. you will be very limited by part number, subaru likes to changes the numbers if the color of one screw is different. i would imagine an SPFI ECU will work. you could post here once you locate one and ask if there are possible EGR or other differences, but i think you'll be fine, but that's guesswork too as i don't have any specific SPFI ECU experience. for what it's worth an XT (4 cylinder) can run on an XT6 (6 cylinder) ECU...not very well but it does drive!

yep that's the part you're talking about. i wouldn't worry about it. might want to paint/prime/cover it to prevent rust.

i don't think it's a heat shield. i don't think you'll have a problem with that. it's probably related to reducing splash, spray, mud from going other places but i think the effects would be minimal.

i would address this pinging noise first before going over board on tune up and fluid changes. obviously...ignition stuff and oil is important, but i'd focus on the pinging first before spending lots of money on unneccessary items. i'm not a pinging expert, so i can't comment, but i'd start asking what is pinging and how can you get rid of it. it can ruin your engine. Fram's do indeed suck and any rebadged Fram is still a Fram. no need to mention my preference, it's already been mentioned and nearly all others are decent quality.

sounds like they know what they are doing with headgasket issues. they are replacing the water pump and cleaning out the radiator which are wise to do in this case. sounds like they have good experience and good workmanship, i'd go for it as well.

sweet deal, then get the 97 if it has the 2.2. i thought only Legacy Lsi had the 2.2. is the Legacy L something different, or only the Legacy Outbacks had the 2.5?