idosubaru

make sure you get the new Subaru gaskets. i wouldn't go aftermarket on these.

just trying to stick to the facts before this turns into the other threads. i appologize if that was worded poorly. this is certainly a mod that should be done with caution but for those that may need it, which may be very few people, it is awesome. i've seen the 1-2 shift mentoined before, none of the auto trans subaru's i've ever driven in do it. now, i'm not saying first and second gear do not change the shift characteristics...it may somehow, but it's nowhere near the no-slip traction control that the duty C mod provides. either it's available in other models that i haven't driven or this information is incorrect...or more likely it's interpretted incorrectly from the owners manual or FSM.

it doesn't matter if you start the car with the switch ON. yes, the trans light will blink...but so what, you know why it's blinking. if you really think you have a transmission code, just quit using the switch (you won't use it that often anyway)....sooooo...all that to say you'll know when it's a "real" code or not, it doesn't hurt anything, the light flashes at start up and then goes away, it doesn't even stay on. so other than 16 blips of light, there's really no reason to worry about a way of preventing it or how to use it and prevent that light from blinking. the light blinking is entirely benign. remember, you'll rarely use this switch in a daily driver, so you'll know if the light is blinking "for real" or not. can you edit that post? i posted numerous times asking for anyone that actually had a trans failure due to this switch. not one person responded to multiple requests, so this information is purely fabricated to this point (not accusing you, just stating a fact). Andy was the only one with issues and he LEFT IT ON. that doesn't count. if someone tows an AWD car on a dolly, you don't say subaru AWD transmissions are junk...it was a mistake. noone has damaged a trans with proper usage...or they haven't responded. please edit your post or provide a link to this information, this confuses people and will only start a repeat thread of the numerous threads already out there. it should be mentioned...this mod isn't for everyone, but it is for me and is very useful. i've done it, years ago, used it many times and haven't had any issues. it's not a toy, shouldn't be used as a toy and should be done right. the switch should be hidden so that it can't be accidentally engaged and i suggest an indicator light in prominent view (i have one) that comes on with the switch, so you know it's on. it's a nice thought on an XT6 to use the DIFF LOCK switch from a manual trans..it'd look alll stock and sweet...but it's a bad idea because it's too easy to accidentally engage so i haven't done it.

this is on the loyale turbo in your profile or something else? being a later model turbo i think you have coolant and oil lines going to your turbo, they could be mixing there at the turbo. i'm not very familiar with turbo's, but they can blow seals and leak oil and coolant and i'm guessing it could mix? sounds like headgaskets though, have you tried a compression test?

one way to sort of see this visually is just to remove the intake hose and watch the butterfly plate. when you let off the foot pedal/throttle cable, it closes the throttle plate completely and the engine is forced to run on the IAC or whatever your idle air control system is composed of. less air = less fuel.

the same harness connector, interesting. that's a good one to know!

i have a transmission that may be of use to you. i'll send you a PM. feel free to contact me via PM or email.

get one with a warranty. you could try and have yours rebuilt, but i wouldn't go that route unless there's a trusted transmission specialist in town. sometimes manual trans rebuilds are actually economical (rather than auto trans rebuilds, which rarely are). but i'd trust a used transmission more than an unknown mechanic anyday....that's personal preference of course. a warranty is a good thing. if it's fine when you first install it and you give it fresh fluids, it should be fine. subaru transmissions are fairly robust and reliabke, even the automatics i'm comfortable installing used units in, but it is inherently more risky than a brand new unit, but that's why it's cheaper too. you could try posting on the boards here or calling some yards, it's nice to get one out of wrecked vehicle, that way you know the car was totalled and not sent to the yards for a bad transmission.

bulls can top that weight by a couple hundred pounds, the cows you saw won't usually top 500 or 600 pounds. but regardless, big and not a nice thing around highways. i like the keeping the antler hole idea, that's awesome.

are you verifying a timing belt failure by doing a compression test? you sound unsure "it looks like". you wouldn't have any compression on any cylinders if the timing belt broke. or did you install a new belt and get those compression readings? my friend has repaired two broken timing belt 2.5's and said he only need to replace a couple valves, the heads were otherwise fine. does it have the original headgaskets on it? if so then i'd probably plan on replacing both headgaskets if you're going that far anyway. make sure none of the tensioner pulleys are rough or noisy, they can cause the belts to fail.

if you're tempted to replacde the rear main seal, make sure you get it right. for some reason there have been multiple accounts of new rear main seals blowing out shortly after installation. and since the engine has to come out, it's one thing you do'nt want to jack up. that being said...for some reason the rear main seal on subaru's rarely fails. it's the one seal that if you weren't going to replace it, i wouldn't make a big deal about it.

attached to the coil bracket, below the coil is a resistor. it's a standard item, all late model XT's and XT6's have them. i think if it's bad it wouldn't have any spark at all, but i'm not sure about that either as i've never seen one fail myself. have you checked grounds? aftermarket coils tend to be a headache....and i know people will pipe up, there are some that use them fine but the "new" aftermarkets fail waaaay more often than the original 20 year old stock units still motoring around today. how's the battery, got enouch juice? any other recent work done prior to this happening?

OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. it's the exact parts that were original on the vehicle, basically - what you would get if you bought parts from the dealer. NGK are the plugs originally installed in Subaru's so they are the OEM part and are available from your dealer for $30-$40 per set or the local parts store for $8 a set. same part.

i think that is vehicle specific. i've never owned one, but heard of some recall or something for a kit, specific to a very few year/model vehicles. this is probably yours and is not common to any other subaru's. a search on here would clarify this. but his 1996 definitely does not have a screw on filter. i usually drain, drive around a couple days then do it again. but cycling through the gears would work as well.

nice, thanks for being honest, i'll cancel my psych appointment. that's the ones i had already gotten. once josh chimed in, i got them right off. very easy.

thanks josh, worked like a charm. got them right off and the new ones installed. i figured it was way easier than i was making it!

i picked up a 1992 Loyale wagon with a/c, MT, PT4WD, 108,000 miles, in great condition. runs perfect, clutch is tight, SPFI, everything works. blue book value for tax purposes was $1,600. cars are worth what someone is willing to pay for them...i didn't pay anywhere close to that "blue book value"...or even half of that value. but i suspect i could sell it around here for about that. i suspect most users in the older generation forum do not pay top dollar for vehicles so you'll need to define what you mean by "how much is it worth?". worth to who? me, about $200. street value.....depends on your area, i suspect soobs would sell well in maine like they do in my area, $1,200.

since i've owned about 15 XT6's and worked on others i don't need to test them. my newest daily driver i just picked up this summer is doing it too...so i'm off to do this YET AGAIN. i've seen it about 10 too many times in the past decade and this fixes it every time without buying a new sensor. and to the question of cleaning the contacts - sure try it, but it's a waste of time. it will work temporarily for sure. maybe a month, 6 months, a year but it'll come back. that's what i did the first couple times i had to deal with this. tiny files, eyeglass screwdrivers...those really tiny microscopic kind work great at getting in there. there's no way to get it all out and if the system isn't sealed, it's going to happen again..just like it did the first time you needed to clean it. maybe you can grease it somehow and that will slow or stop the corrossion, but i like my current method it's the first and last time you'll ever do it.

EA82 timing belt sets go on ebay for $50-$60 sometimes, i just picked up a set last week. includes two timing belts, both tensioner pulleys and the sprocketed idler pulley. the same sets go for $150+ elsewhere...or $200+ at the parts stores. http://www.thepartsbin.com has good prices sometimes and their listings are always correct for what i search for. http://www.rockauto.com has the cheapest prices but be very careful on the parts, they'll list incorrect parts for the vehicle you select, really annoying. dealer parts for an EA82T is a very bad idea. there are two style of water pumps, easiest way if you're not sure is to remove yours and take it in to match or buy both and return the one you don't need locally. do a search, there are threads detailing the differences.

i bought the wipers that the catalog said i need, it's the entire blade, not just the rubber insert. how do you remove them? doesn't look like they're removable but there is a small plastic tab that looks like it's to be pressed for something. the owners manual is no help at all, just mentions replacing the rubber insert only. wipers are PITA. are all cars like this, or subaru just particularly sucks at windshield wipers?

CCR may be $3k, i don't know, he should price them out. 130,000 mile motor for $2,100 or a zero mile motor with a warranty for $3,000? i'd personally go the new engine route, you'd alleviate any concerns about cracked block, etc even though it's not likely in this case. AND - blown headgasket 2.5's sell for $500+, so you could come close to not paying much more at all. what's a couple hundred for a new motor, that's what i would do depending on the actual cost....but i could install the motor myself. CCR doesn't install motors, they'll sell you whatever you want. so if he wanted a 1995 2.2 liter he could buy that (probably a good deal cheaper than a 2.5??) and install it as well. others have bought 2.2's from CCR to replace a 2.5 from CCR. they sell engines, it's up to you to decide what to do with them.

do you know if he just plug and play swapped the engines? that would be crazy information to know if the 3.0 H6 plugged right up to EJ25 connectors.

well he just covered it but i'll second the slapping of the counter guy. unless canadian vehicles were different (don't think they were in this regard), the automatic transmission won't have an external filter on it unless it's a 98+. technically you will see references to a "filter", like say if you tried to order one at a parts store they would give you one. but, it's the internal filter and like john just said it's only a screen. do not replace it. you only need to change your fluid. you can either have a shop do a flush on it, or drain and refill 3 or 4 times yourself (that's what i and many others on the board do). draining one time still leaves alot of fluid in the valve body, torque converter, etc. trans fluid does'nt drain all to the pan like engine oil, so a couple changes or a flush are necessary. and you are very wise to change your trans fluid.

check the engine harness and plugs into the ECU. if they've ever been worked on before, it's possible a pin (or two) were bent when reinserting the plugs. unlikely, but it has happened before and is difficult to nail down. have you checked the pinouts at the ECU for continuity from these two sensors?

there's a product review forum, i suppose you can try that or ask a mod if that's an appropriate place for that kind of information. at $2,100, i think you might even be approaching the point where a brand new motor from CCR would be very close to that in price. and they're local as well.