idosubaru

push your gear selector all the way forward, jiggle it, shift it through the gears and put it in park again....fiddling with it may get it to come out. is the steering wheel locked and does the key turn at all?

i'm not sure what you're asking.

best bet is to use the permatorque Fel-pro heads, otherwise the FSM suggest the headbolts need to be re-torqued. but physically those kits should have just about everything you need.

they posted some good info and pic's earlier about the vacuum lines, i'd look over those earlier posts in this thread. vaccuum on the right lines should get you out. but your push button on the stick might need to be properly depressed for it to actuate properly. i can't recall if they are momentary switches or toggle type? if it's momentary i'm wrong, but if it's a two position switch then it'll need to be "unlocked" for it to stay that way probably.

thanks dave. i saw that on your other thread post, makes sense, so this one should work. i'll mail it to him and see what happens. thanks.

the short answer, your owners manual will give you vehicle/model specific information. the long answer: that it happens on one vehicle, doesn't mean it happens on all. you will not see this kind of activity on your subaru. certain vehicles burn through wires at an excessive rate, not so with subaru's. the most likely way for subaru wires to degrade is by someone removing and reinstalling improperly or tearing/damaging the end. your owners manual will tell you how often you should replace them. 60,000 miles is a healthy time to change them assuming you have Subaru OEM wires, but they can easily outlast that if you like doing it that way. you should always use OEM wires on this engine. the EJ series engine (like your vehicle) are not good candidates for anything but OEM wires. the only other suitable alternative is magnecor. i always use magnecor spark plug wires and never replace them again, they will last the life of the vehicle and will not break-down. they are excellent, check out their website, they are a no gimmicks high quality manufacturer. no other aftermarket wire should be used on this engine. i also use magnecors on all other vehicles that have incessant wire issues like the minivan you mentioned. it solves the problem every time forever.

I broke the purge control solenoid (i think that's what it is) on my friends SPFI Loyale, the one by the thermostat housing. I do not have access to the vehicle, 'im trying to mail him the correct part. It has the little black cylinder hanging off of it, and is bolted right behind the thermostat with two vacuum lines connected to it. Rob sent me a replacement, but it looks like it's off a turbo engine, at least i found one on an EA82T in my shed. it's located behind the thermostat housing as well, but looks a little different. it doesn't have the cylinder on the side of it, it's more square looking. all this to ask, are these interchangeable or do the solenoids have to be identical? i also have some solenoids from my XT6...would those work?

the XT axles would have worked had you specified Turbo axles. play around on advanced auto parts or some other websites and try to get particular part numbers and specific info so you're armed and ready when you go to order them at your favorite local place. better yet order a set from MWE, aftermarket axles have a bad reputation. MWE is in Denver and is a high quality subaru axle rebuilder. i and others have had store bought axles blow up nearly instantly.

you won't have any problem hauling an engine in the back of your toyota pick up. i've hauled engines, transmissions in the back of my 2 door XT6 coupe, they fit in the trunk even. with one i can even close the trunk, with two i can't if they're full engine assemblies. an engine, while heavy isn't that heavy that any typical road vehicle wouldnt' be able to handle it.

crank pulley is 22mm, you're correct. i always replace the water pump anyway, but since you have leakage you definitely want to. the water pump lies behind the timing belts, so that's why everyone replaces them while the belts are off. also with the belts off it is best to replace the cam seals, crank seal, oil pump gasket, oil pump seal and oil pump o-ring. the crank seal is by far the most annoying one to replace, everything else is easy. when replacing the cam seals, do not just replace the seal. by the seal KIT from http://www.thepartsbin.com or somewhere else. it has the seal and the o-ring that's behind the cam cap. the cam cap is held on the cam shaft by a couple 10mm bolts, remove them and the entire housing that the cam seal resides in comes off the cam tower. this makes seal replacement very simple. then replace the o-ring behind it, the old one will be matted and obviously squished out of round. remove the radiator first so as not to damage it and you'll want to inspect it and the hoses as well for leakage. the water pump will come with the o-ring on the water pump pipe. be sure to clean this, i lube them up with a tacky sealant. then make sure the bolt holding that pipe is'nt stripped or loose. don't forget to make sure you get the right water pump, there are two available for the EA82. the one i bought for a loyale last week was $29 from napa, that's all i can remember and it was the right one. i picked up a $58 kit on ebay, it included two new timing belts, both timing belt tensioners brand new and a new idler sprocket. so the entire timing system was replaced new. i'd probably want to know where the antifreeze leak was first before dumping all of this money into the vehicle if you suspect the head gaskets. there are heater core hoses, throttle body hose, radiator hoses and a few tiny hoses on top the engine in various places that can leak as well. inspect those carefully, overheating an engine due to a $1 hose is annoying.

the subaru FSM and this board would be your best resource for doing the job. take the FSM with you to a parts store and compare it to a Haynes manual and see if it really offers you any crucial information, i think you'll find the FSM's all you need. if you decide on an aftermarket set, like nipper said, Haynes is the way to go over Chilton's.

average depends on where you live, what kind of driving you do and how you shift. since it's mostly driver dependent, there's really no average, but a lightly driven clutch won't have any problem making 150,000+ miles. poor aggressive driving and it won't make 50,000.

coils can fail. the mis-fire codes are usually ignition wire related. they HAVE to be Subaru OEM wires on the EJ series engines (which yours is). they are not forgiving of aftermarket wires. they also need to be securely seated and removed/installed carefully. aside from that, the coil sounds like a good place to start. if you wanted to really narrow it down you could swap plug wires around and see if the mis-fire "moves" with the wires, then you'll know it's the wires for sure.

the lever is on the passengers side, it won't just shift by grabbing it and pulling it. it's part of a stationary assembly, something must give for it to be able to move (unless something is broken or already apart). you'll have to unbolt the bracket (annoying to get to the bolts, but doesn't take long) to get it to move.

definitely do not spray WD-40 down there unless you're going to pull it apart and regrease everything (which isn't hard to do). you can rebuild the caliper if this problem seems baffling. caliper rebuild kits are only a few dollars and it's easy to do. push piston out, replace seal around piston, clean piston bore out and reassemble with the new boot. it's very easy to do. the most annoying part is bleeding the brakes after you're done. you could try just compressing the piston all the way in to free it up. or try working it back and forth a few times. i can't think of a good way to pull back the rubber boot and get in there enough to make a difference. the boot is held in by a metal clip, i guess you could try to pull that out...but heck if you do that you're one step away from rebuilding the caliper. if you are going to grease it, i think i'd way to compress the piston all the way, remove the boot and get a needle grease gun attachment to get grease all down in the bore, if it would even fit though i'm not sure.

that you're getting metal sounds and your first post referenced "moaning sounds" and have very significant amounts of play speaks of wheel bearings. that is not a ball joint. i didn't see the "moaning sounds" post reference the first time i replied, i just now saw that, or i wouldn't have mentioned ball joints. alignments are typically over-rated, people pay for way too many of them, but in this case you'll need one after the new hub is installed.

i'm with GD's price range. if your market is small, i'd say closer to the $200 range. if you have a large metropolitan market place, maybe the higher end. if you're willing to sell this thing and tout the fact that it has no timing belt to fail...someone who needs inexpensive and reliable transportation might foot $500 or so. i've found people will buy oil leaking seives and banged up cars for $500 so long as it's going to get them somewhere without breaking down.

we also have another member (in addition to the one you're speaking of), that designed a duty C controller. but he basically developed an entire stand alone TCU to do it and was very tight lipped about the entire deal. no information offered.

sounds like a wheel bearing to me. ball joints will also cause curve and speed dependent wobbling, but usually the only noise you'll hear is anything associated with the wobbling - not an actual metal sound from the joint itself. if you can't find a good and reasonable mechanic or cost is an issue, swapping a used hub is a good option as well. these guys have one in PA for $65: 1-800-358-8770. if you can't do it yourself, a mechanic can install a hub in well under an hour. depending on your mechanic, wheel bearing replacements can run quite high.

if the crank isn't marred up (like he just mentioned), it has the possibility to work. i would not have thought twice about trying it while i was in college. i would get a tap and die and make sure the threads on your "new" shorter bolt and the threads in the crank are crystal clean. i'd want to be able to spin that thing on there by hand effortlessly. then tighten that mo-fo. it's not aluminum, i use a 3 foot long pipe and put all i got into it when i tighten mine, so i'm betting it can and will hold depending how much good thread is left.

sounds the bearings/hub are all shot. but, the axle nut isn't loose is it? sometimes the axle nut can back off to the point that only the cotter pin is retaining it and it's too loose to hold the wheel solidly in place. they should have noticed that if they put it in on a lift and looked at it though. is this accompanied by any noises at all? i'd replace the entire hub like they said if it's that bad. while it's off be sure to check the ball joint and tie rod end link as well.

like nipper said, what symptoms are you having? and yes auto trans are typically high cost to open up and repair. subaru auto trans are reliable enough that finding a good used trans and installing it is a economical and a wise choice if you can find one.

you realize the bolt is stripped right? have you ever dealt with a stripped crank bolt before? the dealer will likely say "new engine needed" and if they do manage to get it out, it will be more than $80. the starter method and air tools will probably not make a difference here. maybe, but not necessarily, i think you're thinking of just a really tight crank pulley bolt...this one is stripped. though i would certainly try the starter and air tools, it is worth a shot. if you can't get the bolt head and have to go behind the pulley, get as close to the crank shaft as you can so you're pushing dead center on the pulley. build up something to leverage against with wood or metal, so you're not directly pressing on something important...oil pump for instance. crank seals are easy in my oppinion. sometimes annoying to remove, but not a big deal at all, they always come out.

it does a decent job, but that doesn't mean it can't serve my personal uses better. i drive off road in snow, mud and ice. there are times when the TCU is not sufficient for what i'm trying to do. but most people don't encounter those situations.

i'm not being hostile, i'm stating facts and posting links. i requested people who have had failed transmissions and there were no responses..except andjo who 'left it on, on the highway', a mistake, we all know that..it's been said a billion times. we at xt6.net have had this mod in place (without near the fanfare) since 2003, there are a number of users there as well that are not members or frequent here. no failures on transmissions nearing 20 years old over there. if people screw up alot of things it's a 1,000 dollar repair (changing oil, changing coolant, rotating or replacing tires, replacing thermostats...etc), it seems you stand in opposition to this modification on principle and keep quoting all of these transmissions that have failed....but i don't recall seeing them. not saying it isn't there, but i can't find it and noone is speaking up. andyjo admitted to leaving it on, on the highway...that doesn't qualify for "what came first the chicken or the egg?". again this seems like a biased oppinion. here is my situation.....i come from a board where this mod has been in place for years. there haven't been any failures. then the topic explodes over here on usmb recently, and all of the commentators are people that haven't done it. it seems to me this information is best presented in a factual manner, and for those of us that have done it properly and need it, it is well worth it. there's no hostility at all, but i'd like to see this topic remain factual for the minority that can use it, because it is awesome. this will not hose your trans, many have done it at xt6.net for years. there is a risk, yes. if anyone does toast a trans, it's because they did something wrong.