idosubaru

thanks michael, i'll be sure to have a look at this, literally.

very few oil pumps exhibit significant wear, resealing them has always worked for me. but i have a new one in mine just for giggles.

graphite lubricant. i've been told by people more knowledgable than me that cables should be lubed with this type, not other types of grease. as for it not threading in, if you've tried multiple cables then it's likely your threads are jacked up or dirty on the transmission side. this is now in the USRM as well.

the float in the tank is likely faulty. i'm not very familiar with them, but they are accessed through an access port in the trunk (remove cover to get to the sending unit) under the carpeting in most soobs.

this is for an XT6, i'd imagine most EA82's are very similar if not identical. if you think you might want to regrease your speedo cable to avoid it failing or smooth out your speedometer, skip down to the bottom as i believe there's an easy way to do it that requires very little time/work. the end that threads into the transmission is plastic so use a 17mm wrench to get it out. very easy from the passengers side to unthread, don't even have to remove anything. pliers or channel locks can be used, but the end is made of plastic so squeezing it will deform it and not allow you to use a 17mm wrench in the future. if you're removing a bad one, then who cares. if you're removing a good one to regrease i'd stick with a wrench. once that is out, the cable just pulls out of the firewall and back of the instrument cluster. so it only requires one tool to remove. installation is the same. install the instrument cluster side first, thread it through the fire wall. this is the tricky part. you can't see the back of the instrument cluster, so if you want to play hit or miss it will take probably 10minutes to an hour depending how lucky you are getting it to hit and seat properly without being able to see or feel anything. lucky for us, there's an easy way. if you remove the bottom gray, metal cover plate that's held on by 4 phillips head screws you can actually see the receptor behind the instrument cluster very easily. look up and there it is, makes installing the speedo cable very easy. this is XT6 specific, but check your vehicle for covers/plates that are easily removable underneath to give a visual aide in seeing behind the speedo cluster. it offered no access as there's too much in the way, but it was very easy to at least see. guide it, seat it and you're done. including removing the cover plate it can be done in about 3 minutes. 1 minute to remove the 4 screws and cover plate, then 2 minutes to guide the cable in place. install the transmission side and you're done. regreasing is really easy. it's just a cable slid through a sheath. once it's out of the car you just wipe it clean and spray graphite lubricant all over it. it sprays on as a liquid but coagulates as a thicker lubricant as it dries. spray the cable down and spary some inside the sheath and run it back and forth a little bit to get everything covered. for those that might want to regrease: since i pulled this one out, i did it out of the car. but what i found is that the cable pulls out of the sheath from the transmission side. so you should be able to just disconnect the transmission side with a 17mm wrench, pull the cable out and reinstall it without ever messing with the instrument cluster side of things. i would highly recommend this for any daily driver that i plan on keeping for any lenght of time. i think this would take about 5 minutes to complete.

i replaced the speedo cable yesterday...it was actually twisted and seized instead of snapped. anyway, car hasn't stalled since. so either i haven't driven it enough yet or the speedo cable solved the stalling issue. time will tell. my last auto AWD XT6 i put 20,000+ miles without the speedo hooked up and never had any issues, so i can't imagine this would solve it?

here's the question - there's no way to convert a clutch style transmission to a hydraulic style clutch set-up? never seen one, so i don't know how the transmission side differs. can i install a hydraulic fork on a cable style transmission? that will not be an issue, that's very easy to deal with. the car was originally a cable style, so converting back isn't an issue either, but i'll attempt to retain the hydraulic clutch if i can. and for the same reason the return spring won't be an issue either if needed. trans crossmembers, axles and such are not issues, you're looking too hard. that's not relevant to the question. the more info i offer, the more the thread gets derailed...which i don't need to explain as the last two posts have proved that. for you it is, but this car is not for you. that it's a step backwards for you does not mean it is across all possible circumstances and users. i have a ton of subaru's and all the rest are 4WD.

it made this with or without the belt installed? the cam shafts are spring loaded by the lifters and cam lobes, so the forces cause lumpy turning and snapping movements at certain points in their rotation. is it more than that?

doubt it's cold enough down there, but doors can freeze shut as well. it would have to get wet and freeze shortly afterwards so i'm guessing in GA this wasn't the cause. sitting out in sunlight or warming up the vehicle for a significant amount of time may be the only fix in these situations. not being able to get it open makes it tough to remove the door panel and have a peak doesn't it? since i've chased no short of 3 theives in atlanta, one trying to steal a car, i think i'd leave it in the stuck but locked position over trying to fix it and find it won't lock. at this point you just need the door opened so you can remove the panel and have a look. i'd start pulling apart what you can from the inside, the door handle trim should be removable at least right?

i don't know the exchange rate and i'm not going to look it up but the timing belts are $59.95 in the states ordering on-line or from a nice dealer. those prices all seem very high on the parts. i would not buy the parts and ask them to install them, most places do not like doing that and many refuse. often they refuse saying they can't gaurauntee it or verify the proper parts, etc....they usually make up some excuse, but the bottom line is they make money on the parts too (as you can tell in this case). The local dealer quoted my cousin $695US for only replacing the timing belt.

yes makes sense. the only thing i didn't understand was the "bell crank". i'm guessing it'll make more sense once i get in there and figure out all the hydraulic gizmo's since i'm not familiar with them yet. last resort i'll have to swap to clutch cable, but i'm hoping to avoid that. with the transmission out, is there anyway to swap the EJ hydraulic clutch fork for the cable fork? or are the input shafts/transmissions actually different?

nothing about this vehicle is stock, it's a project. the vehicle has a hydraulic clutch assembly that works with a 6 speed WRX transmission, so i assume it's a turbo set-up, but don't know for sure. i'm installing a FWD transmission in it. and i believe all FWD EJ manual trans are cable operated. so there's my question - how to fit a FWD EJ trans in a hydraulic clutch equipped car. there's no need for commentary on "FWD versus AWD" that people like to offer up for no reason. i am not here to discuss that, but that seems to be the way this always goes as soon as i mention it..which is why i was trying to avoid it.

doesn't seem like the TPS and IAC are to blame. car still stalls occassionally. i wouldn't expect it, but i'm going to replace the speedo cable since it's broke and the speedometer doesn't work and see if that helps.

XT and GL have the same engine, so as long as it's a 4EAT trans which it should be in an 88+ XT it should be identical in every way. earlier XT's...say 87 and earlier i think are 3AT's...completely different POS. sounds like you're fine from what i'm reading. there are differences in the EJ 4EAT's but they are similar. for one i don't think any have a 3.7 final drive that the EA series vehicles had. most EJ stuff is 3.9 and up.

what's the cylinder? like the master cylinder? that would already be in a car with hydraulic clutch right? if i install a cable actuated trans, the hydr. clutch stuff will all be already in the car.

the spark plug tool that comes in the factor XT6 bag of worthless tools will remove the PCV valve. the metal hexagonal bolt that holds part of the a/c bracket on an XT6 will, when turned backwards so to speak, remove the engine access plugs for pulling the wrist pins.

have you verified that it's coolant and not unburned gas, condensation or something else? sounds like it may just be normal. is it still there once it's warm? if the engine was rebuilt that means new intake manifold gaskets were installed. i can't recall the EJ set up from memory but on the older soobs these have coolant passages in them that are known to leak on occassion and may have not seated well when the new engine was installed.

yes, hit it a couple times and let it soak in advance. make sure it's liquid wrench or PB Blaster. you shouldn't need a torch. axle goes throught he hub and has the large axle nut on the outside. this axle nut is often the trickiest part of the entire deal, they are VERY tight and should be. remember this fact when reinstalling and tightening it very very good. i would not get a used axle. they tend to have dry rotted rubber and don't last very long. i wouldn't replace the boot either, at this point it could start clicking at any time after installing a new boot and that would be annoying. go used on the hub and either Subaru or MWE on the axle. i would say leave the axle alone, it will not fail. i've put 50,000+ miles on busted boot, clicking CV's before. the stock subaru axles are solid. a Subaru axle with a broken boot and clicking is more reliable than a store bought aftermarket "new" axle in my book. i've seen brand new aftermarkets blow to pieces...not fun. search on the forum here and you'll see other people with "new" axles breaking. leave the one you have or get a Subaru or MWE axle.

can a cable actuated transmission be used in a car with a hydraulic clutch? i've never worked on a car with a hydraulic clutch before so i know nothing about them.

from xt6.net discussion, it looks like purge control solenoid and TPS should be addressed. i've never had any issues with VSS codes either and i've had them in a handful of my XT6's.

synthetic or regular ATF will be fine. 8.3 quarts sounds right. differential gear oil weight will be listed in the owners manual as well - 75w should be fine. that's correct. i do 3 drain and refills. don't change the filter. this car doesn't have a real filter, the filter is only a "screen" and doesn't ever need to be changed. it requires dropping the pan and is super annoying with the pan holes, gasket and such. so not only is it pointless to change the fake 'filter', it's a sucky job and prone to leak afterwards anyway.

yes, automatic XT6's all have 3.7 final drive ratio.

okay, i'll try swapping out a TPS. thanks kids!

if it's based on need you are less flexible, but that is not a good deal at all, even in excellent running condition i'd consider that a bad deal in an area with a decent soob population.

left my house and the speedometer didn't work but everything else was fine so i kept driving. the tachometer worked fine. then it stalled a couple times, usually while decelerating it seemed, but could have been a coincidence. one time it stalled, just prior to stalling the RPM's were bouncing all over the place...though the engine obviously wasn't doing that. the check engine light came on briefly then went out before i could check it real-time. since i've owned it, it's had a very random stutter. driving along at low speed, highway speed, or accelerating, anytime really. it would have a very quick 1 second stutter and keep trucking along, no check engine lights. codes from read memory mode were: 32, 33, 35, 42, 51 32 Oxygen sensor or circuit 33 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) or circuit 35 Canister purge solenoid or circuit 42 Idle switch or circuit 51 Neutral switch (manual transmission)/inhibitor switch (automatic transmission) i'll address all of these, but since i'm supposed to drive a few hundred miles tomorrow, which of these could/would cause the stalling issues? O2 and vehicle speed sensor are not likely to be the culprit. canister purge solenoid or circuit, that doesn't sound like it would either. so 42 and 51 most likely? TPS is sounding suspicious?