
idosubaru
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Everything posted by idosubaru
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what's the feedback on these guys? we need a thread for these guys in the feedback forum. anyone with experience on these axles, post in the feedback forum about them.
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cool pic's, never seen the difference in the guts before.
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the crank pulley is the easy part - insert a heavy duty extension or screw driver (remember - heavy duty and dont' let it fall down) into the flex plate through the bellhousing access hole (remove the rubber plug for it under the throttle body/intake hose). this is for an automatic. if it's a manual, put it in gear and have someone press the brake pedal. the hard part is the cam sprocket bolts, they are rather difficult to get off. i have a large and very heavy cast iron tractor part that works well to just jam it through the holes in the cam sprocket while i back the bolt off. get creative with what you have, or remove the valve cover and put a wrench on the cam as it has a square part to it. or buy the expensive tool.
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if you find any info on those GCK's, post a link in this thread. !&*(*@(&(*!!&!!!**B!*! *!*!&*& ing *!!!&*
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cookie brings up a headache saver for you....if you're doing the valve adjustment, read up about it alot...again, back to that website i mentioned, he details that process fairly well and goes into all the details about how hard it is to come up with the right shims at the dealer. read up and look into it ahead of time and check your local dealer what they have in stock.
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the cam seal is pressed into the cam "cap", it's a housing that bolts to the engine, holds the cam seal, the cam shaft passes through it and the cam sprocket bolts to the cam. it's about 2 inches 'high' so to speak. between this cam cap and the engine is an o-ring. they are brittle and hard as a rock by now typically. i see more seapage behind these than the cam seals on EJ motors. remove the cap sprocket on the drivers side, the rear timing cover and you'll have access to 3 10mm bolts that hold the cam cap to the engine. remove those to access the oring. on the rear passengers side there's a rear cam cap as well, remove 2 10mm bolts to remove that cap and replace the o-ring. that one is really easy. other than the air intake tube, there's nothing to remove to replace that one, super easy. same part number as the front one. i've never actually replaced that rear passengers side one on an EJ25 though that i can think of, only on EJ22's...but i think they're still there on the EJ25 as well.
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is your engine fuel injected now? if it's carbbed, then you can't just drop in a fuel injected engine, there is no computer or wiring harness to run it.
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what do you mean by "the heater stops"? it doesn't stay hot, or it shuts off altogether? "heater stops" sounds like the fan quits running...but that doesn't make sense, so i'm thinking you mean you just don't have heat? how is the coolant level? is that okay? how old is the thermostat - is it a Subaru thermostat? i'd replace the thermostat and keep an eye on the coolant level. no leakage anywhere?
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$1,500 includes sending the heads to a machine shop and having them tested and milled. that step should never be skipped, your heads will be fine and won't require much work. the $200 in parts figure you mentioned is probably a little light. i don't know the history of your car but while you're in there it is likely you'll want to address the water pump, probably at least the geared sprocket timing pulley if not another one and maybe the tensioner as well. they add up fast at $50-$80 each. then add in a new timing belt, rear separator plate (get a metal one and replace yours if it's plastic), thermostat, cam seals and possibly some shims if you do a valve adjustment... you'll want to visit the head gasket replacement website i mentioned. he documented 48 hours of work, but he took a long time...i only say that so you know which website i'm referring to. he lists all the parts and prices and how to do the job and the valve adjustment nonsense too. you will want to read through that, it's very comprehensive and to the point. you will not need much more than that website alone.
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his 96 is not under the fluid additive or extended warranty options. that's for the later generation external leaking EJ25's. the torque converter of the 4EAT in your car is tricky to seat. seems like it is and it's really close, but the last 1/4" is hard to tell and bolting it up like that will break things. knowing is most of that battle, like you said, don't force it. i was looking at buying a "pristine" Legacy GT sedan..like right now... with a headgasket "prone" EJ25 motor in it that has 273,000 miles on it and it runs like a dream. second owners and they don't believe the headgasket was ever replaced. they aren't the 2.2 EJ22 engine, but they are quite capable if the headgaskets hold. replacing the headgasket is typically a $1,000 - $1,500 job. follow up failures are rare, plenty on here are running with replaced headgaskets.
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yes, you have the torque converter seal right. it looks like you might be right on the ring seal, but i'm not sure. i can't seem to positively identify it on those sheets. the ones i've ordered have always been called "ring seals" based on the dealer parts look up software. you shouldn't have a problem...i have not and noone else that's tried to get one has either...getting the "ring seal" from the dealer. it can be tricky to find on those parts explosions and it didn't immediately pop out on those diagrams though. it may be the part you mentioned. it is a graphite (best way i can describe the material) type seal that's a complete circle that's been cut. it is not a clip. i've seen some mangled (twisted and wrecked) and very brittle ones, i like to replace them if i'm taking the trans out. be sure to look at the old one and remember where it goes, i do recall being confused one time on where it was supposed to set on the shaft.
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i'm betting it is not fuel related. how's the CTS? check your cap and rotor, i've seen new ones off the shelf turn to crap fairly quickly (in a matter of days), it's worth a quick peak. do you have an extra distributor to swap in place? i've seen a couple of these fail and every single time it was while the engine was down and apart for head gasket work...my speculation is that corrossion messes with the CAS if you have that style disty. every time the disty tested fine and no check engine light too...but car wouldn't start at all or only for a couple seconds in those cases. does it do this all the time? maybe it's exhaust related, catalytic converter? maybe when the headgaskets blew the first time the coolant and overheating toasted your converter? just a WAG.
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Can Anyone give advice on a brake job?
idosubaru replied to beataru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i did not pour through the pages of replies, but if you're bleeding and bleeding and still getting lots of air bubbles that don't go away and have a mushy pedal then i agreew with MJDC - replace the master cylinder. seen it before, it's the only thing i've seen cause this situation. yes i'm sure there are other things, but that's the experience i've had. subaru master cylinders rarely fail, i've never actually had to replace one on a soob..other cars yes, soobs never. i'd be perfectly content installing a used one if price is an issue. they are very easy to install and you can probably score one from the group for free or next to nothing. if you needed one from an XT6 and i was in MD (with all my parts), i'd send you one for little to nothing. -
i think he just wanted to swap the trans. either way that seal pipe is an interesting read and even more interesting that the dealer mentioned it, i had never noticed that before. got me wondering if my ER and EJ FSM's are similar to that SVX info. should be identical on that part. wouldn't you ask the parts guy about for the parts? they don't always the service side all that well. kind of hit or miss, but they aren't actually the guys out there turning wrenches so he might have been confused about what you were doing or something?
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get a turbo vehicle. even if you could get it to work, the ECU isn't going to allow you to boost much....then you get into all the electronics and boost controllers...and cost...money you could just put towards a vehicle that already has a turbo in it. your non turbo isn't set up to control the boost, if you can control the boost, the ECU won't let you take it up very far and your ignition timing will likely destroy your engine unless you start monitoring your EGT's...$$$$. and, your engine doesn't support coolant and oil flow for the turbo, so you'll have to do some custom oil pump, oil returns, tapping and welding your heads or oil pans.....etc to have those oil and coolant supplies and return lines. and after all of this work you'll end up with a high compression turbo..which sucks. turbo engines have low compression pistons...so even if you did "bolt it on"...to do it so you can actually use the boost you need to swap pistons in the block so you can actually get some good useable boost levels going. that's why everyone is saying to get a turbo subaru and do it right, otherwise it's really not worth it and you end up with an unreliable vehicle that isn't very fast anyway.
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there are two seal pipes listed, on page 4 and page 25. it is possible it's the same part, but it only mentions replacing the seal pipe when rebuilding the transmission. i don't know that it's considered necessary, even by FSM standards when swapping the trans. that might be a "only when rebuilding" thing, i don't know. i have not and would not replace it. never seen that done before and i've never heard of it causing issue.
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there is a ton of information on that page. there are two "seal pipes" mentioned, from what i saw...i'm not loading it again to check, ADOBE SUCKS..anyway, i've never replaced it and dont know anyone else that has either. i'd be more worried about the retaining clip that holds the pipe to the torque converter than the pipe myself...but i've never had to replace one of those either.
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what's the history on this car? was it running fine then it just quit one day? is the gas old, been in there for a few month? if you don't have spark, the gas won't burn and yo'ull get the gassy smell you're indicating so sounds like i'd still be tracking down a spark issue. the igintion box is really easy to replace. if you get another one you can test it in about 3 minutes, pull 4 wires and install them on a new box.
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i would suggest contacting CCR. they are even a member of this board (emily). they are highly regarded in the subaru world. that's a very good option to take. comes with a warranty, highly regarded people and work, very few questions, low down time, no worries about a cracked block, etc. and you're right there in CO. if you're competent yourself, buy the engine and install it yourself. if it's an automatic, just be sure you know the trick to seating the torque converter so you don't hose your trans. there's plenty of info on the boards here including a site dedicated to the process of doing this job yourself, search for it and yo'ull find it. i printed that web page out and have it at home for reference. he claims 48 hours of total time into the job...but admits to taking his time. consensus seems to be it can be done in half that time or less. a shop can have it done in a day.
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i don't know what the "seal pipe" is. i would replace the torque converter seal and the ring seal (along the shaft) and leave it at that, that's all i've ever replaced on the auto trans side of things. i've never heard of anyone replacing anything else either. while the trans is out, it's easy to replace the rear output shaft seal as well that the driveshaft slides into. they are old and brittle and can seap ATF at this point. but they are also replaceable in the vehicle. if you're driveshaft has been removed for a couple days and sitting, make sure it's not rusty or dirty when you reinstall it. you know about the trickiness of seating the torque converter right? not doing it right will ruin your new trans. it's easy to mess up if you haven't done it before or don't know.
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if it's the RE92 tires that came on many late 90's and early 00's soobs, most people hate those but im' not a tire expert. that does sound too soon. did you check the tire pressure? i usually bump the pressure up 5 psi more than recommended, they'll wear better that way in my experience. too low, or even at the recommended levels and they tend to wear on the edges more from what i've seen. sounds like something is out, should be under warranty and they should do a free alignment. yes the camber is adjustable via the top strut mount bolt, it's a cam style bolt that changes the orientation of the hub based on where the bolt ends up. have the struts or hubs been messed with at all?
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i don't know from memory, but i have worked on that wiring before as well. you could pull the hose from the pump. if nothing comes out, switch the wires and try again. if it comes out then, you're golden. be advised, this is very dangerous running wire like that, it should be run on a protected line at least. make good, clean, tight connections.
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yes it can be done. it's a large job, but having a complete donor car is definitely the way to go - because you know you'll have everything you need. trying to piece it together is NOT the way to go. there are some FWD to AWD swap threads...there's a very detailed one with pictures started by mr.radon over at http://www.xt6.net, you might want to look through a couple of these threads to get an idea of what's involved with the swap. keep in mind that the justy is a bit of a freak among the subaru world. the engine and nearly everything else is completely different than all the older generation EA and ER stuff and the newer generation EJ and EG stuff. amongst all subaru's some parts are interchangeable, but the justy is the true subaru freakazoid. you probably know that, but just throwing that out there.