idosubaru

i'm betting it is not fuel related. how's the CTS? check your cap and rotor, i've seen new ones off the shelf turn to crap fairly quickly (in a matter of days), it's worth a quick peak. do you have an extra distributor to swap in place? i've seen a couple of these fail and every single time it was while the engine was down and apart for head gasket work...my speculation is that corrossion messes with the CAS if you have that style disty. every time the disty tested fine and no check engine light too...but car wouldn't start at all or only for a couple seconds in those cases. does it do this all the time? maybe it's exhaust related, catalytic converter? maybe when the headgaskets blew the first time the coolant and overheating toasted your converter? just a WAG.

i did not pour through the pages of replies, but if you're bleeding and bleeding and still getting lots of air bubbles that don't go away and have a mushy pedal then i agreew with MJDC - replace the master cylinder. seen it before, it's the only thing i've seen cause this situation. yes i'm sure there are other things, but that's the experience i've had. subaru master cylinders rarely fail, i've never actually had to replace one on a soob..other cars yes, soobs never. i'd be perfectly content installing a used one if price is an issue. they are very easy to install and you can probably score one from the group for free or next to nothing. if you needed one from an XT6 and i was in MD (with all my parts), i'd send you one for little to nothing.

i think he just wanted to swap the trans. either way that seal pipe is an interesting read and even more interesting that the dealer mentioned it, i had never noticed that before. got me wondering if my ER and EJ FSM's are similar to that SVX info. should be identical on that part. wouldn't you ask the parts guy about for the parts? they don't always the service side all that well. kind of hit or miss, but they aren't actually the guys out there turning wrenches so he might have been confused about what you were doing or something?

get a turbo vehicle. even if you could get it to work, the ECU isn't going to allow you to boost much....then you get into all the electronics and boost controllers...and cost...money you could just put towards a vehicle that already has a turbo in it. your non turbo isn't set up to control the boost, if you can control the boost, the ECU won't let you take it up very far and your ignition timing will likely destroy your engine unless you start monitoring your EGT's...$$$$. and, your engine doesn't support coolant and oil flow for the turbo, so you'll have to do some custom oil pump, oil returns, tapping and welding your heads or oil pans.....etc to have those oil and coolant supplies and return lines. and after all of this work you'll end up with a high compression turbo..which sucks. turbo engines have low compression pistons...so even if you did "bolt it on"...to do it so you can actually use the boost you need to swap pistons in the block so you can actually get some good useable boost levels going. that's why everyone is saying to get a turbo subaru and do it right, otherwise it's really not worth it and you end up with an unreliable vehicle that isn't very fast anyway.

there are two seal pipes listed, on page 4 and page 25. it is possible it's the same part, but it only mentions replacing the seal pipe when rebuilding the transmission. i don't know that it's considered necessary, even by FSM standards when swapping the trans. that might be a "only when rebuilding" thing, i don't know. i have not and would not replace it. never seen that done before and i've never heard of it causing issue.

there is a ton of information on that page. there are two "seal pipes" mentioned, from what i saw...i'm not loading it again to check, ADOBE SUCKS..anyway, i've never replaced it and dont know anyone else that has either. i'd be more worried about the retaining clip that holds the pipe to the torque converter than the pipe myself...but i've never had to replace one of those either.

what's the history on this car? was it running fine then it just quit one day? is the gas old, been in there for a few month? if you don't have spark, the gas won't burn and yo'ull get the gassy smell you're indicating so sounds like i'd still be tracking down a spark issue. the igintion box is really easy to replace. if you get another one you can test it in about 3 minutes, pull 4 wires and install them on a new box.

i would suggest contacting CCR. they are even a member of this board (emily). they are highly regarded in the subaru world. that's a very good option to take. comes with a warranty, highly regarded people and work, very few questions, low down time, no worries about a cracked block, etc. and you're right there in CO. if you're competent yourself, buy the engine and install it yourself. if it's an automatic, just be sure you know the trick to seating the torque converter so you don't hose your trans. there's plenty of info on the boards here including a site dedicated to the process of doing this job yourself, search for it and yo'ull find it. i printed that web page out and have it at home for reference. he claims 48 hours of total time into the job...but admits to taking his time. consensus seems to be it can be done in half that time or less. a shop can have it done in a day.

i don't know what the "seal pipe" is. i would replace the torque converter seal and the ring seal (along the shaft) and leave it at that, that's all i've ever replaced on the auto trans side of things. i've never heard of anyone replacing anything else either. while the trans is out, it's easy to replace the rear output shaft seal as well that the driveshaft slides into. they are old and brittle and can seap ATF at this point. but they are also replaceable in the vehicle. if you're driveshaft has been removed for a couple days and sitting, make sure it's not rusty or dirty when you reinstall it. you know about the trickiness of seating the torque converter right? not doing it right will ruin your new trans. it's easy to mess up if you haven't done it before or don't know.

i don't think they're adjustable, did you check your owners manual? i'd probably snag another clock from a yard and swap it out, i haven't seen or heard of this happening before so my assumption is that you got a screwy one.

if it's the RE92 tires that came on many late 90's and early 00's soobs, most people hate those but im' not a tire expert. that does sound too soon. did you check the tire pressure? i usually bump the pressure up 5 psi more than recommended, they'll wear better that way in my experience. too low, or even at the recommended levels and they tend to wear on the edges more from what i've seen. sounds like something is out, should be under warranty and they should do a free alignment. yes the camber is adjustable via the top strut mount bolt, it's a cam style bolt that changes the orientation of the hub based on where the bolt ends up. have the struts or hubs been messed with at all?

the left and right timing covers are attached with only a couple 10mm bolts, remove them and check the timing belt. did you check for spark at all plugs or just one? ignition coil (DIS), wires, cam sensors, crank sensors. probably lies in one of those items.

i don't know from memory, but i have worked on that wiring before as well. you could pull the hose from the pump. if nothing comes out, switch the wires and try again. if it comes out then, you're golden. be advised, this is very dangerous running wire like that, it should be run on a protected line at least. make good, clean, tight connections.

yes it can be done. it's a large job, but having a complete donor car is definitely the way to go - because you know you'll have everything you need. trying to piece it together is NOT the way to go. there are some FWD to AWD swap threads...there's a very detailed one with pictures started by mr.radon over at http://www.xt6.net, you might want to look through a couple of these threads to get an idea of what's involved with the swap. keep in mind that the justy is a bit of a freak among the subaru world. the engine and nearly everything else is completely different than all the older generation EA and ER stuff and the newer generation EJ and EG stuff. amongst all subaru's some parts are interchangeable, but the justy is the true subaru freakazoid. you probably know that, but just throwing that out there.

i would rather have a mechanic that i trust then a no name "Subaru" specialists. a subaru timing belt isn't that hard, i'd have him do it, there's nothing tricky about it. $200 labor does seem really sweet deal. for your information the dealers where i live charge $699 for a timing belt change - that includes ONLY the timing belt. so they're charging $600+ for an hour or two worth of work...just the timing belt. so yeah, $200 is a steal. the geared sprocket pulley (the only one with teeth of the timing components), usually is the noisiest pulley of them all and tends to "wear out" first. i think i've always replaced that one at least when doing EJ22 and EJ25 timing belts. in addition to nippers list you'll want to replace the cam o-rings. on the EJ stuff i see more seapage (wetness) there than on the actual seals. there are two on the front cams and i think there's a rear on the passengers side as well...i think all EJ's have that o-ring (it's the same part number as the front) if so, that one is super easy to replace. 2 10mm bolts and that's it. on the cam seals you can visually look and decide if you want to replace them or not. the cam sprocket bolts are very tricky to remove if you don't have a good assortment of tools and such to work with.

you'll want to fix that, i would not leave it. they can do nasty things once they let loose.

those intake bolts do suck real bad. while pulling the head isn't necessary, if it were going in a car i planned on driving i would replace the headgaskets probably. unless i knew something about the engine and was confident it was in great condition. i've posted a number of very in depth times about tricks on getting the intake bolts out. and i know it doesn't matter now since yo'ure done, but if you care in the future: soaking in a penetrant can help, even more so with some other tricks. first one is to loosen a little, then retighten, loosen a little, retigthen. keep doing it to help loosen them up. if you can get the bolt up at all, get a pry bar underneath the head and pry up while turning. these two tricks help very much.

BUCKET OF HORSE SNOT!! that's insane...or a typo! how do places like that even stay in business? wow.

hey, how dare you post here before xt6.net. just kidding joost! i'd expect a vaccuum leak somewhere maybe? i would want john from KY on xt6.net to see this, i bet he'll reply at xt6.net, he's the subaru turbo genious.

is this an EA82? what year/model? carb, FI? the EA82's and ER27's i've worked on only have one wire to the oil sending unit. the ends are always black on the ones i've seen...but being another country and cut on top the engine that doesn't really mean anything for you. trying touching them and see what happens when you turn the key to "ON". right now, with nothing connected, does the "idiot light" light up when you turn the key to "ON"? if not, then just touching the wires should show you which one works but trying that. i wouldn't think it would light up though if it's not plugged in, so that may work. then again maybe i'm cracked up and you need both for some reason. a better bet might be installing a more useful device, like an aftermarket oil pressure sender rather than just the "ligth".

you can always offer less, keep contact with them and often you'll get the car for next to nothing. it's very difficult to move an undesirable vehicle that doesn't run, they will not sell it and if they do it will be for less than that.

yes, swap away. if you want to check a possible item, yours should currently have an EGR valve, make sure the 96 does as well (it should, i think they all do in 1996). it'll plug and play, no computer issues at all. no matter what, i guess you'll have a shop do the install, make sure they keep all the accessories and brackets for the a/c and power steering. just mentioning that in case they yank the motor before getting the new one in.

maybe you could call the place you're getting it from and ask them if they have any particular shops they have a relationship with? you'll be hard pressed to find a place wanting to warranty all of the parts and labor on an engine install. i know people that have had brand new engines installed and still had to eat labor costs (or go to court in one case..though it never went anywhere) when the "new" engine had issues. no mechanic will want to do free labor. it'll end in a "he said", "she said" type deal where the mechanic says the motor was bad, he's not eating the charges and the supplier (of used or new) will balk and not do anything, or best case they supply another engine but won't pay the re-install fees...because the warranty is for the engine only.

an engine install isn't that difficult for any mechanic to do. you don't need a "specialist" of any sort to do it. seating the torque converter on an automatic is the only tricky and dangerous soob specific part.

do you mean the driveshaft where it slides into the rear of the transmission? it slides in and out 1/4"? that sounds excessive if that's what you're talking about. but the carrier bearing allows for some play there, so maybe it's okay, i've never really paid much attention to it. good trans, good driveshaft and everything always seems to work. do you have reason to believe there's an issue with something? what exactly are you looking for and why did you find this? are you trouble shooting something in particular, or installing a transmission or something?