idosubaru

i would rather have a mechanic that i trust then a no name "Subaru" specialists. a subaru timing belt isn't that hard, i'd have him do it, there's nothing tricky about it. $200 labor does seem really sweet deal. for your information the dealers where i live charge $699 for a timing belt change - that includes ONLY the timing belt. so they're charging $600+ for an hour or two worth of work...just the timing belt. so yeah, $200 is a steal. the geared sprocket pulley (the only one with teeth of the timing components), usually is the noisiest pulley of them all and tends to "wear out" first. i think i've always replaced that one at least when doing EJ22 and EJ25 timing belts. in addition to nippers list you'll want to replace the cam o-rings. on the EJ stuff i see more seapage (wetness) there than on the actual seals. there are two on the front cams and i think there's a rear on the passengers side as well...i think all EJ's have that o-ring (it's the same part number as the front) if so, that one is super easy to replace. 2 10mm bolts and that's it. on the cam seals you can visually look and decide if you want to replace them or not. the cam sprocket bolts are very tricky to remove if you don't have a good assortment of tools and such to work with.

you'll want to fix that, i would not leave it. they can do nasty things once they let loose.

those intake bolts do suck real bad. while pulling the head isn't necessary, if it were going in a car i planned on driving i would replace the headgaskets probably. unless i knew something about the engine and was confident it was in great condition. i've posted a number of very in depth times about tricks on getting the intake bolts out. and i know it doesn't matter now since yo'ure done, but if you care in the future: soaking in a penetrant can help, even more so with some other tricks. first one is to loosen a little, then retighten, loosen a little, retigthen. keep doing it to help loosen them up. if you can get the bolt up at all, get a pry bar underneath the head and pry up while turning. these two tricks help very much.

BUCKET OF HORSE SNOT!! that's insane...or a typo! how do places like that even stay in business? wow.

hey, how dare you post here before xt6.net. just kidding joost! i'd expect a vaccuum leak somewhere maybe? i would want john from KY on xt6.net to see this, i bet he'll reply at xt6.net, he's the subaru turbo genious.

is this an EA82? what year/model? carb, FI? the EA82's and ER27's i've worked on only have one wire to the oil sending unit. the ends are always black on the ones i've seen...but being another country and cut on top the engine that doesn't really mean anything for you. trying touching them and see what happens when you turn the key to "ON". right now, with nothing connected, does the "idiot light" light up when you turn the key to "ON"? if not, then just touching the wires should show you which one works but trying that. i wouldn't think it would light up though if it's not plugged in, so that may work. then again maybe i'm cracked up and you need both for some reason. a better bet might be installing a more useful device, like an aftermarket oil pressure sender rather than just the "ligth".

you can always offer less, keep contact with them and often you'll get the car for next to nothing. it's very difficult to move an undesirable vehicle that doesn't run, they will not sell it and if they do it will be for less than that.

yes, swap away. if you want to check a possible item, yours should currently have an EGR valve, make sure the 96 does as well (it should, i think they all do in 1996). it'll plug and play, no computer issues at all. no matter what, i guess you'll have a shop do the install, make sure they keep all the accessories and brackets for the a/c and power steering. just mentioning that in case they yank the motor before getting the new one in.

maybe you could call the place you're getting it from and ask them if they have any particular shops they have a relationship with? you'll be hard pressed to find a place wanting to warranty all of the parts and labor on an engine install. i know people that have had brand new engines installed and still had to eat labor costs (or go to court in one case..though it never went anywhere) when the "new" engine had issues. no mechanic will want to do free labor. it'll end in a "he said", "she said" type deal where the mechanic says the motor was bad, he's not eating the charges and the supplier (of used or new) will balk and not do anything, or best case they supply another engine but won't pay the re-install fees...because the warranty is for the engine only.

an engine install isn't that difficult for any mechanic to do. you don't need a "specialist" of any sort to do it. seating the torque converter on an automatic is the only tricky and dangerous soob specific part.

do you mean the driveshaft where it slides into the rear of the transmission? it slides in and out 1/4"? that sounds excessive if that's what you're talking about. but the carrier bearing allows for some play there, so maybe it's okay, i've never really paid much attention to it. good trans, good driveshaft and everything always seems to work. do you have reason to believe there's an issue with something? what exactly are you looking for and why did you find this? are you trouble shooting something in particular, or installing a transmission or something?

subaru transmissions overall are very reliable. even the automatics have a very good track record. i'd go used and always, always change your ATF often. if torque bind scares you, ask the yard what their policy is and print out some pages from here documenting the prevalence of it in case they ask. just ask what they'd do if you install the trans and it has torque bind....this might help negotiate a lower price as well. junk yards don't have set prices like someone already mentioned, they can flex. keep your tires matching and change your fluid often. make sure your mechanic knows the trickiness of seating the torque converter that final 1/4" when installing the trans. it's very easy to miss and bolting it up like that will ruin your trans...that has happened a number of times. not good.

an EJ22 ECU will run an EJ25 just fine and an EJ25 ECU will run an EJ22 just fine...the engines are interchangeable without messing with any wiring or computers. ...but i do not know that the pinouts are identical at the ECU wiring harness, that would be the thing you need to know. NASIOC might have some better information since they play with that stuff more if you don't get anything solid here.

that has rarely worked for the engines i've worked on. another northeast thing?

use the search button under the newer generation forum. you'll find all sorts of information. look for links to the "endwrench" site, that's Subaru's website for technical information and they offer excellent timing belt change details.

i'm not really familiar with the older EJ22's like you have, but the newer ones have a rear cam seal/o-ring. if yours has this, then it could be the culprit. the next possibility is the rear main seal. what do you mean by "rear of the engine"? can you not tell if it's coming from between the engine/transmission or if it's coming from one side, like passengers side or drivers side.?

he probably won't have rusted bolt issues. you're in the northeast, that's much more prevalent there/here. and also that's more prevalent with 80's or early 90's stuff. particularly EA/ER series older generation stuff. even being in the pseudo northeast where i am i've yet to have any problems getting the timing covers off any EJ vehicle.

i don't have a chain wrench. there's a notch on the cam shaft that a crescent wrench fits on...curious what size wrench that is as 24mm is the biggest wrench i have.

i always tighten the axle nut as much as my socket and 3 foot pipe will allow. i do not use torque wrench on the axle nut. i know that's not recommended, but i get it as tight as i can and i've never had a problem.

did you do it yourself the first time? first time always takes..or should take much longer, particularly on an interference engine like this. what else are you replacing? just the timing belt? since your next belt change after this will be nearing the 300,000 mark, you'll likely also want to replace the water pump as well and most likely some of the pulleys. buy them all and replace the ones you don't need or be prepared for some downtime figuring out which ones you need. i think i always end of replacing the geared idler pulley, those seem to degrade the fastest. what all your replace will make a difference on time. figure on 3 hours and up depending what else you get into. more if you're not comfortable around this kind of work.

are you sure it's the trans? could it be something else? it could be the pilot bearing or throw out bearing? were those replaced at some point, when the trans was replaced before? also - check your trans gear oil level. you already tried a used unit? they have so few issues, i always recommend used over rebuilds. but...manual rebuilds aren't as bad as automatics at least. i know a good shop in Westminster, MD about an hour and a half from you. they are not cheap, not over the top expensive either, but they do good work and are straight shooters. i have a friend that's a mechanic and he does complete engine rebuilds, not sure if he does transmissions. i can call and ask if yo'ure interested, i've recommended others on this board to him. again an hour and a half. the last guy i recommended to him was over an hour away.

the XT is like any other EA82 vehicle. the pump has a sock in it, but there shouldn't be any need to mess with that. the fuel filter is easy as cake to see, get to and replace. it's at the fire wall on the drivers side, up high with a hose on one side and a hose on the other, and it clips in a metal bracket.

what size wrench is needed to hold the cam in place while loosening the cam pulley bolt? been searching for awhile and got nothing.

right on nipper. i've always driven XT6's and have never read or paid any attention to safety, air bags, side impact blah blah blah. wanted to check it out as i get ready to put a legacy on the road too. actually the publication my insurance company sent was an interesting read, that's what got me thinking about it. thanks for the links.

my insurance company sent out a comprehensive list of vehicles. it showed the actual injury claims per accident per vehicle...adjusted somehow. unfortunately i don't have it any more. it created a base number of 100 and anything under that reflected a lower number of injury claims for that vehicle relative to others. i'd like actual statistics like that better than stars. maybe i'll call my insurance company.