idosubaru

don't diagnose the fans without the thermostat in. if the T's are staying low, it won't ever get hot enough for the fans to kick in. so you'd end up wiring in a switch you never needed. test the fans with the thermostat in place and when the engine is hot. i saw two thermosensors in my garage, i can send you one if you'd like. i've seen two different kinds, one has a small length of wire and an electrical connector and the other type has no wire and just some prongs that a plastic clip plugs into. not sure why there are two types, but it's easier to make sure you get the right one. i think i have both, if you want one of my spares, let me know which one you have and i can send one to you.

nice, looks great. they look so much better off the ground.

how many miles? the difference between 80,000 and 250,000 is a big one. with reasonable miles and in good running condition this is a great car. these will run forever and being SPFI and manual trans, there aren't really any reliability issues with this vehicle. age is a concern, any radiator or hoses that are original are over 15 years old and need or will need replacement at some point. but these are minor issues that preventative maintenance and a thorough checking take care of. it would sell for $500 - $1,500 depending on many variables. if i was looking for a good deal and didn't need it, i'd offer $200. if i had a friend that really needed the car i'd pay up to $1,000 for it if it's in decent shape...rust, mileage, etc.

that's it!!!! wow! i think i scored an XT6 cable at xt6.net so i should be golden. good info, thanks!

i'd do a search like nipper said. i've had good luck replacing the older gen stuff, but never had to do a newer gen yet (unlike HEEPS which i work on far, far less). if i did, i would look into replacing them with greaseable joints. including parts you can have all the ujoints replaced for about $200. $100 in parts and $100 in labor when i've had it done. i've done it on older generation subarus without issues. have a driveline specialty shop do it. a general automotive machine shop can do it, but a driveline shop has far more experience with these and will know how to properly set the yoke distance where a generic auto machine shop typically won't do that. maybe they could look at it and let you know what they think. the easiest solution with less downtime is getting a used driveshaft. in my oppinion they don't fail enough to warrant lots of effort and hassle. and they usually give lots of warning signs, so it won't leave you stranded if somehow it did start going bad. but even more important, if you inspect it prior to buying it you can get one in excellent condition that likely won't give you any problems anyway. find one locally so you can go feel it before buying, make sure it doesn't have any lumps in it. if the joins move freely and smoothly you're golden. if they're lumpy, stick or have tight spots, don't buy it. be selective and this will likely be the last one you buy. make sure when you replace the driveshaft the input shaft that slides into the transmission is clean and doesn't have any rust on it. they rust quickly when removed. that input shaft rotates inside a seal, so you want a nice clean smooth surface. and be careful of that rear seal on the transmission when you're pulling the driveshaft out and reinstalling, don't band it up unnecessarily. it would be hard to mess it up, but i've seen them leak before after driveshaft removal.

whoops, i was talking to connie about her cooling and other XT6 issues, i was reading and typing too fast this morning. yes it was the fusible link, in the box next to the battery. the fusible link for the power steering is the closest one to the front of the engine bay. definitely the first thing to check, and the fuse in the fuse panel box as well. for the fusible link, be sure to pull it out and look. sometimes they look and feel fine sitting there but fall apart when you go to remove them. i had glanced it over and did a quick check first thing when i started looking into this but made the mistake of not actually removing it. but if you haven't looked at anything else yet, do not expect to find your steering issues here. 95 times out of 100 the brushes need replaced or the internal pump housing needs cleaned out.

thanks dave! automatics are the same - even 3AT and 4EAT? manual and auto's are different? i thought i remembered my EA82 MT's being different, but they're in another state so i can't check.

I'm almost positive the manual trans cables are identical. anyone know if the XT6 automatic speedo cables are the same as EA82 manual trans cables?

Yes it did receive the power steering recall. i can almost garauntee that cleaning out your pump will get your steering working. a better bet is to clean it and replace the brushes ($15). if that's not the issue then the next most likely item is the power controller....but 9 out of 10 times cleaning and replacing the brushes is the fix. as for my issues - fusible link. it appeared together, but as i wiggled it, it fell to pieces. steering now works perfectly. thanks for the help all.

i have manual steering now, and it's really hard. harder than a manual steering rack would be. not a huge deal, but in town driving is less safe i feel and more importantly my wife can't drive it like that. it's not constant power. it varies power assist based on driver input (4 different modes) and speed. but i could choose a constant power assist..i would need to reduce the amps or something though. 12 volts straight from the battery all the time would ruin the pump in short order i am told.

dual port EJ22 was standard in 95, so yours is normal factory stuff. might be too late in the game, but make sure the clutch is properly adjusted, the shifter linkages aren't shot and change/check your trans gear oil. drain and refill. lack of oil in it is bad. tiny metal flakes in it is bad. chunks of metal in it is also bad. are you sure it's the transmission and not the clutch? sounds about right to me that it's the trans, but just making sure.

that would work, but the pump will fry in short order if given full access to the 12 volt system. i'll have to somehow lower the voltage or amps to the motor. i'll try replacing the controllers one more time. after that i think i'm hosed. can't see me tracing every single wire in the system.

me either, i can't follow along at all.

i'm wondering how long the pump/brushes will last if i wire it to run continuously! i'll try swapping the power controller and computer again with yet another one. and find out what the subfan relay is all about. hopefully i can test that.

i think those numbers seem off as well. problem is i replaced the power controller and signal controller and still no dice. i have other spares though, maybe there's a strange chance that i replaced it with a bad one? but i have the feeling i'm just missing something. the FSM has some strange talk about a relay and control of the sub-fan motor. i'm not sure why or when the radiator fan comes on with the power steering pump. and i'm not sure if that relay fails if the power steering is rendered inoperative or not either. FSM is vague about the integration of the subfan and power steering system...but mentions it briefly. still scratching head.....i need to start scratching something else soon, this is getting old!

will, here's the link to the XT6.net thread about stainless brake lines. lots of pictures, lengths, info on fittings, etc. there's info on two different companies, the one wants you to send the originals (http://www.bonacoinc.com - $120), the other only needs measurements (stoptech $175). http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2863&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=stainless&start=15 based on that info i would think if you gave them the total length you need and what kind of fitting is on the end they can make what you need.

The XT6 has the crazy cybrid electric power steering so response might be small but i've posted at XT6.net and i'm baffled so.... Steering doesn't work and the Power Steering light comes on immediately after start up. Replaced the pump - no change. Pump tests fine, if i give it 12 volts directly the steering works. Replaced the power controller - no change. Checked the fuses - all good. Replaced the signal controller (computer) - no change. Ran the diagnostic test - no help. The steering column sensor wouldn't cause this because the steering will work fine while moving even if this sensor fails. I unplugged it and tried and nothing changed. Everything else in the vehicle works. On the pump, with the engine On, I get 3 volts between the positive terminal and ground. And I also get 3 volts between the negative terminal and ground. Not sure if this is right, the FSM doesn't say. I'm hoping someone can tell me what they get. any ideas? At this point i think i'm going to swap another power controller and signal controller and see what happens.

check the connector plug for bent pins or corrossion, the wiring and then swap in a used one to see if that helps. to check the wiring, leave the engine running and start at the TPS. grab the wires between your fingers and gently roll them between your fingers and bending back and forth. a short will show itself by causing the engine to stall out, idle erratically or if it's running poorly it will run good when you hit that spot. if this happens you'll have to replace the wire. continue this procedure, working away from the TPS for as long as you have access to the wire. bad wiring is usually in the first couple inches. annoying, but not hard to do and very low cost. you could attempt opening up the TPS and seeing if you can clean up the contacts. i'd have an extra one on hand though in case you screw it up.

someone on XT6.net had stainless steel lines made and said the company could crank out more sets. i don't recall the price but seems it was reasonable. i'll look it up if you're interested. not sure if EA82 stuff would be the same, but you have some XT6 stuff at the hubs so might work?

got it, thanks for the help!

i ran mine through without a cat, might depend on the state and their limits, but the guys were laughing at how badly mine passed. wasn't even close. i'm surprised your low end isn't hurting with a 2.25" exhaust on a non-turbo engine of that size. the XT6 with 6 cylinders looses significant low end if you open the exhaust above 2.25". all the power moves really high in the power band, leaving you gutless at normal driving ranges. with a high flow converter you shouldn't notice anything. that's what i have, i didn't on mine. mine was very small and easy to install. price $50 - $200 depending on lots of variables.

sweet, that's the wire and thanks for the pic! i still can't see where it's bolted to on the power steering pump. can you verify which stud it's bolted to? are you saying it's the top one with the red wire, it's bolted under the rubber cap?

OF COURSE IT'S JACKED UP!!! the minute i take my power steering pump apart and need to look the wires up...>BAM!!!!! no more xt6.net!!! GRRRRRR>>>>>> it wasn't up for awhile. the powers to be were contacted an hour or so ago. but, i just got in about a minute ago, don't know how well it's working but appears to be a server glitch from what i can tell so far. if it's still shady, i'd expect it to clear up by the end of the day or tomorrow.

are you sure it's the "loose" wire that's the lone wire connected into the plug by the drivers side strut tower? it's connected to the "postitive" terminal at the 10 oclock position? that sounds odd, got a picture you can email me? grossgary at the yahoo place.

i think it matters what engine you have. turbo, non-turbo, carb, MPFI, SPFI, XT, so let us know what you have. i think some XT's (which are EA82) are high like 22 degrees or something. i would think 18 should be close if it's not running. if you have the owners manual with you, check in there. if you made it 348 miles from home with it "out of time", you'll probably make it back just fine to your chiltons manual right?