idosubaru

oh yeah? i didn't even think to check with them. you sholud post the price if you know it!

thanks guys, went perfect with the 3/8" as i had some of that. i just used straight transmission hose. none of the bends compromise the hose at all, so molded OE hoses aren't necessary for this application. next time i'm running straight hose from the ATF cooler all the way to the transmission to eliminate all those extra clamps in between.

nope i didn't catch that, good call. it's very confusing...there are essentially 3 different "temp sensors". (4 in an XT6 engine bay for those that like trivia). one for the ECU, one for the temperature gauge in the dash and one for the fans. the one for the fans is a thermoswitch like he just mentioned. it's the one that screws into the radiator, should be the only thing with a wire screwed into the radiator. maybe the wire is just corroded, dirty or not plugged in?

shouldn't really matter if it's JDM or USDM anyway except that you might not be able to use the intake manifold of the JDM. engine i got last summer was a 40,000 mile JDM special. can't use the intake manifold because the wiring harness is all different. colors are all different and plugs were different as well. anyway, long blocks are all the same, so not sure it really matters. mine came complete with a blown headgasket. for the cost of an EJ25, i say go with CCR every time if you're in the states, but i'd imagine international shipping may kill that deal.

i want to pick up some replacement trans hose so i can replace it tonight when i get home. anyone know what size it is for sure? 1997 Impreza OBS, though all 4EAT's being nearly identical i think most EJ's should be the same.

there should be a relay somewhere, and those fail quite often. particularly the fan relays. i have a bad one right now as well!

depends who the buyer is. if it implies some kind of warranty that you otherwise wouldn't have then maybe for some people. but probably not worth it for the high, top dollar costs associated with a used car lot. depends on the definition of "Certified Preowned" but in general i say no. for the most part a low mileage and newer subaru is going to have so few issues that this "inspection" is more marketing than anything else. it's a way for them to convince people to buy vehicles for top dollar. the benefit to cost ratio is really low for the buyer. but if you're not familiar with cars and checking obvious things then it might be worth it. OF COURSE the CV joints aren't busted, OF COURSE the tie rods don't need replaced. OF COURSE the engine and transmission run fine and the brake fluid isn't leaking, the transmission fluid isn't leaking, the diff fluid isn't leaking....that wouldn't be normal or expected on a car only a few years old, these items just typically don't exhibit issues at only a couple years and low miles. and those are easy to spot items anyway. it's easy to come up with an enormous list of "checked over and inspected items" and that's very good that they aren't broken. but it's also very unlikely for them to have been broken in the first place. so yes it's important for these things to get checked, but not worth paying top dollar for either. if you can't do a quick glance yourself of fluids and boots and stuff, don't want to bother paying a mechanic to check it over (say doing a private vehicle sale) or don't have time then yes it's worth it.

in general i'd wait for the 45,000 if you're not experiecing any issues and not going past your oil change iterval. most of those "services" end up being high dollar items where you're paying alot for minor details. for example: Subaru's Certified xx,xxx service: Check ATF, Check Brake fluid, Check coolant level, Check Brake pads, Inspect tie rods, ball joints, cv boots...... a long list of stuff that really means nothing. it's a quick glance over for $300. If i crawled under your car, popped the hood and 13 minutes later asked for that kind of money you'd call me nuts. But they make a long list and give it a label and it's all of a sudden a signature service and "peace of mind". if you need timing belts, then obviously that's important. but generic "tune-ups" and "xx,xxx" services tend to be pricey for not much if any return. if you don't know much about cars and don't have a choice and want that peace of mind of having it done then you should have it done. if you can glance over the services listed and manage these items yourself then by all means do that and only pay for the services you need. this forum can help you determine which items are "filler", which you can easily glance at yourself and which are legit to take to the shop.

your 03 engine is different than the 95...but not by much. the 03 should be an EJ25 2.5 liter and your 1995 was an EJ22 2.2 liter. same basic motor, they are even interchangeable without much effort. one main difference is that you now have 105,000 mile timing belt internvals instead of 60,000. and if it's an auto trans you now have a screw on filter that your 1995 didn't have. it should have come with a service manual, all of your maintenance and service information is in there. if you don't have one, you should get one or look it up online.

does it keep the interior cool at all? either way that doesn't sound normal. i'd test drive another one and see what it does as well. then get really PO'ed when you find out they lied to you about a car that's BRAND FREAKING NEW. you didn't pay for this kind of treatment, you paid for a warranty and service, it's time for them to honor that. if you wanted to buy something with quirks and unknown issues with no warranty or service you would have bought a 2000 subaru.

the free shipping to USMB members was a temporary promotion that has now expired, the date is on the same page.

that is not a relay. do you have an FSM or owners manual you can look at to see if it says anything. check under the hood, they usually have diagrams under the hood for vacuum routing and other information...maybe it would show a relay location, but probably not? if you take more pic's maybe we'll see it?

check your fuses on the fuse panel. in addition to the fuse panel, the XT6 has a fuse for the a/c system located in the engine bay right by the relays. it's a stand alone fuse, sitting all by itself that is easy to miss or forget about. has a black cover so it doesn't stand out either. says 15A on it (15 amps). see if yours has this fuse and check it as well. i tracked down my non working a/c problem last year and checked fuses and other stuff only to find this fuse was blown...should have checked it first! i would double check the relays. and make sure you didn't ruin them while testing (apply voltage to the wrong terminals).

i haven't seen one with one fan and no air conditioner so i'm not sure what you'll see. my guess is that you'll only have one relay there, so you won't be able to "swap" them around like i mentioned. to test one relay, you can test it with a voltmeter. also if you know where to apply the 12 volts to you can give it 12 volts and see if it "clicks". if you're not sure, post a picture of that area and we can probably tell you which one is the relay you need to check. it's usually a square looking black item with 4 contacts and 4 wires connecting to it.

the p/s is "passengers side". the relays for the fan are just in front of the passengers side strut tower...at least in the US they are. not sure if they flopped things around in countries where they drive on the other side of the road. anyway...the a/c relay and fan relay should be together in front of the strut tower. how many fans does yours have? two or one? here's how to test it. unplug the relays until the a/c doesn't work, this will tell you which one is for the a/c and you'll know that relay is good. then swap the other (one or two depending on your vehicle) relays into the a/c relay socket. best to turn the a/c on-off, don't just leave it on while plugging in your relays, to prevent ruining them. one of the relays you insert in the a/c will not work, the a/c won't come on and you'll know that relay is bad and that relay socket is for the fan that doesn't work. sorry to make that so long, it's really simple. just swap the relay's out to narrow down which one is causing the problem. if it's just two relays it should be very, very easy to verify. relay's often start working if you move them, knock them or beat them around a little, so don't be surprised if it starts working when you go unplugging and moving them around. but don't plan on it working for long, they'll eventually stick again very shortly.

i'll add to this since i have experience. i've done it as emergency repair measures before - bad driveshaft, bad diff...etc. no difference at all.

FREAK!!!! i was 7 miles from you guys, had i known that i would have stopped by when i was there.

the cheapest and best alternative is to get an entire vehicle. it's not hard to get an entire EJ vehicle for next to nothing. i've passed up one free one already this year and it wasn't even wrecked. to get one wrecked or with a bad transmission for chump change is also very easy to do. EJ22's can be found really cheap as well. the other important question is if you're doing the work yourself. if not then the cost of a swap could be considerably more than an EA82 rebuild. finding a random shop (assuming you have no connections or whatever) willing to do this around this area is nearly impossible, if you do the prices are insane. around this area it would be cheaper to pay someone to rebuild an engine than do a custom swap if you're paying someone to do all the work and don't have contacts/friends/people helping you.

they rebuild subaru axles and have an excellent reputation. there is a link to them through the CCR website. do an internet search for MWE axles and they'll come up. they have also posted their information here on USMB. he just finished 4 for me today. here's the USMB link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49775&highlight=marshall he now has XT6 axles in stock and ready to go.

sweet, makes sense. i edited my first post. that explains why there always seems like less when i go back in there the next time!

it's because the emergency brake is on the front calipers (as opposed to the rear setup like many others).

the front calipers need to be turned in just like a bolt. clockwise to go in, counter to come out. they are on a threaded spindle, trying to press them in won't work or will break them. most auto parts stores carry a $3 tool to that attaches to your ratchet. one of the sides of the "box" (that's what the tool look like) will fit your calipers. or you can make one out of an old socket. just grind/cut off most of the socket and leave "ears" sticking out to grab the forms in the top of the calipers piston.

actually i have a couple spare racks anyway, so there's really nothing against using the stop leak stuff in this one before i take it off and trash it right? unless it could affect the pump? i've shipped parts to New Zealand, Germany, Holland, Australia, Canada...and other odd places, international shipping isn't too bad unless you need it super fast.

what makes it internal (like a piston ring) to the point that it has to be completely torn down, unlike an external cam seal that's easily replaced individually? that seal isn't accessible from the side, where just removing the tie rod and boot gives you access? this question might be beneficial to the original poster anyway since he can't source new or used racks. that link was interesting but it's only argument against replacing those seals was corrossion and mileage. i don't necessarily have either of those. i would rather have a reasonably priced new rack, but that's not going to happen on this older gen stuff. i'm not one for additives, but if you're considering replacing the rack due to a minor leak anyway, it's low milage and has no other issues, are "stop leaks" worth a shot? i can't wait until i have all of my extra parts with me so i can look at this stuff and see it.

some members of xt6.net posted very recently issues of leaking grease and other issue from cvaxle.com, i'd avoid them. i would choose MWE...he has 4 of my axles as we speak.