idosubaru

that would work, but the pump will fry in short order if given full access to the 12 volt system. i'll have to somehow lower the voltage or amps to the motor. i'll try replacing the controllers one more time. after that i think i'm hosed. can't see me tracing every single wire in the system.

me either, i can't follow along at all.

i'm wondering how long the pump/brushes will last if i wire it to run continuously! i'll try swapping the power controller and computer again with yet another one. and find out what the subfan relay is all about. hopefully i can test that.

i think those numbers seem off as well. problem is i replaced the power controller and signal controller and still no dice. i have other spares though, maybe there's a strange chance that i replaced it with a bad one? but i have the feeling i'm just missing something. the FSM has some strange talk about a relay and control of the sub-fan motor. i'm not sure why or when the radiator fan comes on with the power steering pump. and i'm not sure if that relay fails if the power steering is rendered inoperative or not either. FSM is vague about the integration of the subfan and power steering system...but mentions it briefly. still scratching head.....i need to start scratching something else soon, this is getting old!

will, here's the link to the XT6.net thread about stainless brake lines. lots of pictures, lengths, info on fittings, etc. there's info on two different companies, the one wants you to send the originals (http://www.bonacoinc.com - $120), the other only needs measurements (stoptech $175). http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2863&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=stainless&start=15 based on that info i would think if you gave them the total length you need and what kind of fitting is on the end they can make what you need.

The XT6 has the crazy cybrid electric power steering so response might be small but i've posted at XT6.net and i'm baffled so.... Steering doesn't work and the Power Steering light comes on immediately after start up. Replaced the pump - no change. Pump tests fine, if i give it 12 volts directly the steering works. Replaced the power controller - no change. Checked the fuses - all good. Replaced the signal controller (computer) - no change. Ran the diagnostic test - no help. The steering column sensor wouldn't cause this because the steering will work fine while moving even if this sensor fails. I unplugged it and tried and nothing changed. Everything else in the vehicle works. On the pump, with the engine On, I get 3 volts between the positive terminal and ground. And I also get 3 volts between the negative terminal and ground. Not sure if this is right, the FSM doesn't say. I'm hoping someone can tell me what they get. any ideas? At this point i think i'm going to swap another power controller and signal controller and see what happens.

check the connector plug for bent pins or corrossion, the wiring and then swap in a used one to see if that helps. to check the wiring, leave the engine running and start at the TPS. grab the wires between your fingers and gently roll them between your fingers and bending back and forth. a short will show itself by causing the engine to stall out, idle erratically or if it's running poorly it will run good when you hit that spot. if this happens you'll have to replace the wire. continue this procedure, working away from the TPS for as long as you have access to the wire. bad wiring is usually in the first couple inches. annoying, but not hard to do and very low cost. you could attempt opening up the TPS and seeing if you can clean up the contacts. i'd have an extra one on hand though in case you screw it up.

someone on XT6.net had stainless steel lines made and said the company could crank out more sets. i don't recall the price but seems it was reasonable. i'll look it up if you're interested. not sure if EA82 stuff would be the same, but you have some XT6 stuff at the hubs so might work?

got it, thanks for the help!

i ran mine through without a cat, might depend on the state and their limits, but the guys were laughing at how badly mine passed. wasn't even close. i'm surprised your low end isn't hurting with a 2.25" exhaust on a non-turbo engine of that size. the XT6 with 6 cylinders looses significant low end if you open the exhaust above 2.25". all the power moves really high in the power band, leaving you gutless at normal driving ranges. with a high flow converter you shouldn't notice anything. that's what i have, i didn't on mine. mine was very small and easy to install. price $50 - $200 depending on lots of variables.

sweet, that's the wire and thanks for the pic! i still can't see where it's bolted to on the power steering pump. can you verify which stud it's bolted to? are you saying it's the top one with the red wire, it's bolted under the rubber cap?

OF COURSE IT'S JACKED UP!!! the minute i take my power steering pump apart and need to look the wires up...>BAM!!!!! no more xt6.net!!! GRRRRRR>>>>>> it wasn't up for awhile. the powers to be were contacted an hour or so ago. but, i just got in about a minute ago, don't know how well it's working but appears to be a server glitch from what i can tell so far. if it's still shady, i'd expect it to clear up by the end of the day or tomorrow.

are you sure it's the "loose" wire that's the lone wire connected into the plug by the drivers side strut tower? it's connected to the "postitive" terminal at the 10 oclock position? that sounds odd, got a picture you can email me? grossgary at the yahoo place.

i think it matters what engine you have. turbo, non-turbo, carb, MPFI, SPFI, XT, so let us know what you have. i think some XT's (which are EA82) are high like 22 degrees or something. i would think 18 should be close if it's not running. if you have the owners manual with you, check in there. if you made it 348 miles from home with it "out of time", you'll probably make it back just fine to your chiltons manual right?

good point john. i posted pictures of what happened to myxphalyx (member here), his RX rear wheels both collapsed inwards due to rusted out rear crossmember. the rear wheels collapsed in to the point they were wedged against the inside of the car. i would check those rear suspension areas, indeed i have been more discerning about that since his incident. scarry that he had just drove it an hour and a half on the interstate.

there's a single blue wire that's not part of the wiring harness (because it's part of the power steering recall) that bolts to the back of the power steering pump. looking from the drivers side of the engine bay you can see the back of the pump. this wire is either connected to the negative terminal at the 5 oclock position or the stud at 3 oclock. both of these positions have other wires connected to them, but this single wire will be exposed and running along the length of the bottom edge of the windshield, not covered or hidden in the harness. anyone with an XT6 want to help me out here? all it requires is looking under your hood.

dude that interior looks awesome. having nice interior is one of the hardest things about an older vehicle.

the cam o-rings don't come off for a timing belt change. if the cam seals, crank seal or cam oring areas appear wet, then it's a good idea to replace them. not entirely necessary, but i always do. if you don't, you're expecting them not to start leaking anytime during the next 100,000 miles.

i would guess that eventually you will have to do what you just said, remove and replace. i tried sealing one up a hundred different ways and it never worked. liquid sealant, black sealant...a dozen different kinds, inside and out and it wouldn't work. you can try some of those methods first.

might want to post in the "historic" forum, since this is an EA71. don't know if that will help at all, but those guys know the older stuff.

that's complete BS on 1.5 quarts low starving the engine.

that should be a fantastic vehicle if what they are saying is true.

?!??!? that's bizarre, that aint normal!

there's no proof, but i would guess that it's more likely they did something wrong than it randomly seized or lost oil for no reason. where was the oil changed last? did you check oil level or where the loss of oil was occurring? i would have wanted that checked before taking it in. was it making noises at all before it seized? any oil spots in the driveway/garage? any smoke coming from the engine prior to seizing? basically...any signs of oil loss before this happened? if it ran out of oil there's 3 or 4 quarts of oil to be found and that doesn't hide very easily. if they did the original repair, i would not trust their diagnosis of the failure. of course they're going to say the oil is low, anything else could point to them being at fault. low oil would be your fault or no fault...so naturally they'll point to that as the cause. it is likely they've cleaned up any possible clue as to what really happened. if you trust them then i guess you'll have to ignore my negative viewpoint, but far more people that i know get hosed than get treated well. and it is highly ironic that just shortly after a major engine overhaul it looses oil and seizes a cam...the chances of that happening right after this major engine tear down and not being related to the tear down...really, really small in my oppninion. the only one i've ever seen did not break a belt and did not skip timing so there was no piston/valve damage. in this case, replacing the cam should bring the engine back to operational. not ideal, but neither is your situation.

LF has the wrong hub in it, what does that mean? good luck will!