idosubaru

nothing about this vehicle is stock, it's a project. the vehicle has a hydraulic clutch assembly that works with a 6 speed WRX transmission, so i assume it's a turbo set-up, but don't know for sure. i'm installing a FWD transmission in it. and i believe all FWD EJ manual trans are cable operated. so there's my question - how to fit a FWD EJ trans in a hydraulic clutch equipped car. there's no need for commentary on "FWD versus AWD" that people like to offer up for no reason. i am not here to discuss that, but that seems to be the way this always goes as soon as i mention it..which is why i was trying to avoid it.

doesn't seem like the TPS and IAC are to blame. car still stalls occassionally. i wouldn't expect it, but i'm going to replace the speedo cable since it's broke and the speedometer doesn't work and see if that helps.

XT and GL have the same engine, so as long as it's a 4EAT trans which it should be in an 88+ XT it should be identical in every way. earlier XT's...say 87 and earlier i think are 3AT's...completely different POS. sounds like you're fine from what i'm reading. there are differences in the EJ 4EAT's but they are similar. for one i don't think any have a 3.7 final drive that the EA series vehicles had. most EJ stuff is 3.9 and up.

what's the cylinder? like the master cylinder? that would already be in a car with hydraulic clutch right? if i install a cable actuated trans, the hydr. clutch stuff will all be already in the car.

the spark plug tool that comes in the factor XT6 bag of worthless tools will remove the PCV valve. the metal hexagonal bolt that holds part of the a/c bracket on an XT6 will, when turned backwards so to speak, remove the engine access plugs for pulling the wrist pins.

have you verified that it's coolant and not unburned gas, condensation or something else? sounds like it may just be normal. is it still there once it's warm? if the engine was rebuilt that means new intake manifold gaskets were installed. i can't recall the EJ set up from memory but on the older soobs these have coolant passages in them that are known to leak on occassion and may have not seated well when the new engine was installed.

yes, hit it a couple times and let it soak in advance. make sure it's liquid wrench or PB Blaster. you shouldn't need a torch. axle goes throught he hub and has the large axle nut on the outside. this axle nut is often the trickiest part of the entire deal, they are VERY tight and should be. remember this fact when reinstalling and tightening it very very good. i would not get a used axle. they tend to have dry rotted rubber and don't last very long. i wouldn't replace the boot either, at this point it could start clicking at any time after installing a new boot and that would be annoying. go used on the hub and either Subaru or MWE on the axle. i would say leave the axle alone, it will not fail. i've put 50,000+ miles on busted boot, clicking CV's before. the stock subaru axles are solid. a Subaru axle with a broken boot and clicking is more reliable than a store bought aftermarket "new" axle in my book. i've seen brand new aftermarkets blow to pieces...not fun. search on the forum here and you'll see other people with "new" axles breaking. leave the one you have or get a Subaru or MWE axle.

can a cable actuated transmission be used in a car with a hydraulic clutch? i've never worked on a car with a hydraulic clutch before so i know nothing about them.

from xt6.net discussion, it looks like purge control solenoid and TPS should be addressed. i've never had any issues with VSS codes either and i've had them in a handful of my XT6's.

synthetic or regular ATF will be fine. 8.3 quarts sounds right. differential gear oil weight will be listed in the owners manual as well - 75w should be fine. that's correct. i do 3 drain and refills. don't change the filter. this car doesn't have a real filter, the filter is only a "screen" and doesn't ever need to be changed. it requires dropping the pan and is super annoying with the pan holes, gasket and such. so not only is it pointless to change the fake 'filter', it's a sucky job and prone to leak afterwards anyway.

yes, automatic XT6's all have 3.7 final drive ratio.

okay, i'll try swapping out a TPS. thanks kids!

if it's based on need you are less flexible, but that is not a good deal at all, even in excellent running condition i'd consider that a bad deal in an area with a decent soob population.

left my house and the speedometer didn't work but everything else was fine so i kept driving. the tachometer worked fine. then it stalled a couple times, usually while decelerating it seemed, but could have been a coincidence. one time it stalled, just prior to stalling the RPM's were bouncing all over the place...though the engine obviously wasn't doing that. the check engine light came on briefly then went out before i could check it real-time. since i've owned it, it's had a very random stutter. driving along at low speed, highway speed, or accelerating, anytime really. it would have a very quick 1 second stutter and keep trucking along, no check engine lights. codes from read memory mode were: 32, 33, 35, 42, 51 32 Oxygen sensor or circuit 33 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) or circuit 35 Canister purge solenoid or circuit 42 Idle switch or circuit 51 Neutral switch (manual transmission)/inhibitor switch (automatic transmission) i'll address all of these, but since i'm supposed to drive a few hundred miles tomorrow, which of these could/would cause the stalling issues? O2 and vehicle speed sensor are not likely to be the culprit. canister purge solenoid or circuit, that doesn't sound like it would either. so 42 and 51 most likely? TPS is sounding suspicious?

a 1 inch socket fits perfectly over the oil pump rotor so that you can hold it steady while breaking the 12mm nut on the oil pump sprocket, to replace the oil pump seal. a right angle screw driver, sears craftsman set, the smaller of the two piece set, works perfect for holding an XT6 drivers side timing belt tensioner. it has a screw that releases tension and must be held while installing the t-belt. i wind it up off the car, install it while holding the screwdriver still in place, then install it with the bolts hand tight and the screw driver holds tight against the engine due to the pressure of the spring loaded tensioner/screw. install belt, remove screwdriver and bam, snaps into place perfectly. i have pictures at xt6.net. very large sockets work well for driving in EA82 or ER27 crank seals.

EJ and EA stuff are incompatible, it will not bolt right up. adapter plates are available, you'll need one of those to make it work.

if you can keep an eye on your oil level and add a quart when needed, then don't worry about the seals. if you're not overheating, loosing coolant and seeing puddles under the car, the headgasket nonsense could be all lies. looking at your list, they really didn't do anything. they replaced the air filter and an oil change. everything else was an eyeball inspection at best. "checking" means they take about 3 minutes to look and make sure everything seems normal with those systems and don't do anything unless it seems out of the ordinary. they charged you $800+ for $50 in parts and about 45 minutes in labor. do not take a vehicle in for "inspection" or "annual treatment" - that's dealer lingo for "charge lots, do little". they don't really do much of anything. they make up a huge list of things that sound impressive but don't really amount to you paying for any REAL service to your vehicle. go in and tell them exactly what you want and needs to be done - change my oil, clean my battery terminals and change my air filter. $75, thank you and see you later. all that other BS is glance over nonsense that takes anyone that knows anything about cars all of 3 minutes to check. consider this a $750 hint on finding another mechanic. doesn't take a rocket scientist to tell you that you need to go somewhere else.

another reason for failure. trying to play games with materials. the mid to late 90's dodge engines (neons) with cast iron blocks and aluminum heads were a materials engineering failure. they blow headgaskets worse than any subarus.

the one motor that i saw that was driven for awhile with blown headgaskets...adding water all the time like you mentioned, had significant amount of metal missing on the head and block where the leak occured. engine held fine, i did not reuse the heads, they would have needed repaired. welded and machined i assume, but i had enough extra heads that i didn't bother even checking them out though i still have them. they probably had less then 50% of the original cross-sectional area left to seal the gasket with at the leakage point.

i've actually run an EA82 on an XT6 ECU - so they are very close. it was MPFI and it didn't run well, but did actually run and drive just by plugging in i vote for a non-interferenced EJ22. (1996 or earlier).

digital thermometer read -8 degrees this morning so i did something i normally don't do - i warmed the car up. brakes worked fine, i guess warming up freed the valve. i will wait until warmer weather to check into it. this is in my XT6, old gen but possibly same issue.

no that is not the case. you'd need to tell us what you mean by "4WD mode" since these transmissions don't have any type of selectable mode that you speak of other than the TCU controlled AWD system. the only concern on a stock subaru set up is to make sure the tires match, are rotated when needed, and the ATF is changed as needed. whether it's driven on snow, mud, off road, roads, gravel, parking lots, highways....none of that matters. not related, but interesting is that the first 4EAT's that came out in the XT6's never, ever experience torque bind. now, i'm sure there's probably one example somewhere in the world. but i've owned 15-20 of these things, been on the various XT groups over the past decade, moderator of XT6.net and have never heard of one TB issue on these 4EAT's. i've always found that odd.

relative to each other they seem good.

i've seen this same phenomenon on older generation Subaru's as well. a cause that suits a wide range of vehicles rather than model/year specific vehicles may make the most sense most of the time. can dessicant be placed inside the brake booster? i've never had to replace one but i'm guessing probably not.

yuck. that's cracked up. if it's that bad you might want to replace the entire hub. it would be cheaper to buy a used hub probably than new bearings anyway. and new bearings might be toast soon after installing them if the hub is damaged inside from the bearings failing. don't forget to specify FWD or AWD when fixing it. did the previous owner not tell you about any of these things before buying it or was it sight unseen?