idosubaru

there's a resistor pack, usually located next to the blower fan. you will find your problem there. there's a small chance that the selector contacts are malfunctioning, but that's very unlikely.

at 200,000 miles you better hope the head gaskets have been replaced if a $1,500 repair would annoy you after purchase. that car has the 2.5 liter engine with headgasket issues, there's no need to cover it here, just type in "headgasket" using the search button on this forum and you'll see it all. i've seen a couple outback wagons with 200,000 miles for $1,000 very recently, so seems over priced but it's certainly dependant on your area and need.

those diff end caps are supposed to be set precisely from what i've heard john in KY and others that know what they're talking about say. MDJC just posted on the older generation forum about replacing the seals inside of those caps, so you might want to check his thread out. he's the only guy i've heard of that's actually removed them before to replace his seals. gotta roll, but i've seen a few others talk about this too, but it's been awhile.

that very rarely works for me. northeast rust and weather, i don't know, but i tried that. didn't even come close to busting them loose even while adding pressure to the already tightened belt. pulley just spun inside the belt.

the one without studs in the picture CAME with studs, they're just not on it in the picture i took so the "stud" versus "non-stud" variety just confuses me at this point. they both have studs. what do you mean by "long pump" and "shorter pump"? they are both the same overall length. does "long" mean, longer shaft? it's a1992 loyale with the A/C condensor between the alternator and P/S pump - Dealer installed air. So based on that, you're saying i need the "longer pump". which is what i "thought" i was buying. the funny thing is that the auto parts store lists them by "hub height", i bought the one with the higher hub height. 4 5/16 or 4.320, i bought the larger one and it's not right...so that's why i was asking what the "Hub height" exactly is since that's how the store designates them. hub height has to be the length...4"+.....not making sense.

complete non-issue to you. 2006 is way beyond the headgasket issues, fixed circa 2003. i have word from a source close to subaru that can't be named, but is highly respected and affluent in the ways of soobs, that the confirmed date of affected vehicles ends in 2003. he assures me that there are significant numbers of 2003 models with issues hitting the dealer shop floors.

i attached a picture of the removed 1992 Loyale Water pump, next to the other water pump. The disc the pulley bolts to is in a different position, so i need the *other* pump. i read elsewhere, but didn't seem to sure about it, that either pump can be used if the correct pulley is used with it.

if they're working properly then time is probably not that important. as long as possible, as long as they're out of the engine probalby isn't a bad idea. but i've never noticed that 5 days buys you any more than 2. if you take your heads in to get done, the machine shop might just hot tank them for you. there's a place that sells rebuilts for $5 each, you could search for them on the older generation forum. Mitpah Engineering...but i always spell it wrong. search for "engineering" maybe.

having new hoses and clamps or at least checking them is very helpful for driving without issues. after 20 years clamps are iffy. throw extra parts somewhere, alternator, coil, fusible links, water pump, necessary tools.... before an SHO is road-trip worthy it needs to have the cam gears welded in place, the one that wobbles loose. this is a very common SHO problem, check google for more. and it causes massive damage when it comes loose.

i went through multiple searches and threads reading about this, and it didn't cover some things. when specifying which EA82 water pump you "think" you need, what exactly is the hub height refering too? is it the distance the shaft extends from the face of the part the pulley mounts to? and why doesn't any of the parts stores around here carry the longer hub height one for a 1992 loyale and it takes them 3 or 4 days, special order to ship it in? are they that uncommon? they have the other one in stock or can get it the next day. if you get the associated water pump pulley can you use either one on any engine?

don't force them. if they get hard to turn while loosening them, tigthen them down a bit. work it back and forth, back and forth. this will free up the corrossion down in there. if you're lucky enough to get it to come up even a millimeter off the manifold, spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (not WD40) down the shaft of the bolt. the point is to get some down inside the bolt hole, not on the bolt. this works most of the time. and yes it's a serious pain to work with them once they shear off. i would also suggest not trying to remove them when the car is hot...although maybe that's a good time to try for some reason i'm not aware of.

trans coolers are $30 at an auto parts store. very simple. don't attach them to the radiator like the instructions say. you can, but i prefer and think it better not to.

unless you know someone or do some work yourself it's going to run closer to the $2,000+ side of that range. of the people i know that paid to have this done, i've never seen it done for less than $2,000 (unless you're doing at least some of the work). these swaps are usually AWD swaps, i can't recall any FWD swaps, but since that may have been the transmission coming out maybe i just didn't notice. swap it while the transmission is good so you can sell it and recoupe some costs.

forgot to mention that inexpensive SVX's often have cracked glass. windshields are very expensive. used ones can be found cheaper, but you'll need to find one and go pick it up and installers don't warranty them and won't assume any liability for breakage on installation.

my XT6 is much nicer, i only install the top bolts in the fans, since i have no covers i can have the first timing belt off in 5 minutes. i read on here that the clutch fan isn't even necessary except for the a/c. the a/c is non-working as of yet, so i'm not installing the clutch fan back in place. i'll get to the a/c this summer, it's a friends car. thanks for the input. i used the two wrench method and managed the last one by hand. the long 10mm wrench is the way to go, clears the fan blades. thanks all.

i've seperated the front and rear halves a billion times and others have as well, because they've gotten just one half from me. never seen or heard of a problem. never heard of issues with the center carrier bearings being damaged, i've never seen one of those fail, but they are just bearings so they can. if it were me i'd check the rear ujoints as well while it's off and replace it if any of the ujoints are lumpy feeling, it's very obvious if they are. might want to have the entire driveshaft in hand just in case, that may be what he's thinking as well.

transmission issues are common. install a trans cooler when you get it. $1,400 is reasonable...but there are lots of variables. the svx engine bolts right up to an EJ transmission, so finding a legacy or impreza 5 speed to work is easy and cheap. but this kind of trans swap is labor intensive though, plenty possible and huck has documented all the fab work needed. there are also very expensive kits available on-line to do the swap. there's no way anyone can tell you a price on that because it's highly dependent on who you get to do it. most mechanics, if you can find one willing to do more custom work like this, will charge alot for this kind of work. you could get lucky and find someone willing to do it, but chances are more likely the price would be very high. you'd have to ask around, see if you know any mechanics...etc. or just buy the expensive kit and have it done. or maybe huck can build one for you!

you'll need to replace that bad crank pulley. i've never seen a bad pulley cause this, and i've seen a number of bad pulleys, but none on a 2.2 yet. it is certainly an obvious possibility that needs to be addressed before resorting to guesswork. the wobbling could easily be putting stress on the water pump shaft, seal and bearings.

well i hate to admit i've never noticed the shaft is square. i've always done it a different way, i'll refrain from explaining. i didn't even notice the one today that i removed!?!? too much XT6 in my blood. i will say i won't be reinstalling that four-letter-word thing.

what's the easiest way you people have of removing the 4 10mm bolts that hold the clutch fan in place?

checking the codes wasn't the problem, by now i have most of the popular ones memorized for the EA/ER series stuff. i need to know where the ECU was in the loyale. now..if the set up is different...like the ECU doesn't blink the codes like the XT's then i would be confused no matter what, search or no search. i'm headed out now to look for it.

the EJ engine won't bolt up to the EA trans. best bet is to get an EJ trans too (get a wrecked EJ), but an adapter plate will allow you to bolt an EJ up to an EA trans if you wanted too. over here EJ vehicles are fairly easy to get (depending on where you live), with some effort you can easily end up with an EJ vehicle for next to nothing, so that's part of the reason there's so much leaning that way.

don't forget to check the alternator and battery connections. bad connections at the battery won't allow the alternator to charge it properly. the end links should not be able to be turned by hand on the battery terminals. and the terminals and end links should be very clean, free of corrision and build up. same goes on the alternator end, the plastic plugs are the most notorious for failing with age, they turn to brittle plastic and short out. what thye all said. many chain auto stores will test alt's for free, have them test it. the lights on the dash typically light up. address it now before fusible links or more start to fail. bad alternators do bad things to battery's as well. it is very common to replace both within a short period of time...replace battery then within 6 months the alt goes bad or replace alt and within 6 months the battery goes bad. keep an eye on the battery after installing the new alt.

XT6 doesn't have ABS in the US. i've never noticed any changes in the trans when braking in the bunches of XT6's i've owned over the years. not saying that nothing happens, but it's certainly nothing significant. at this point the systems on the XT6 are so old that new rotors, rebuilt calipers, new hoses and complete brake fluid flush will likely do much to improve your braking.

+1 on johns suggestion. i've done that exact thing before with hubs, drop off a used hub, install new bearings and install the new hub. works great, less down time and worries.