idosubaru

trans coolers are $30 at an auto parts store. very simple. don't attach them to the radiator like the instructions say. you can, but i prefer and think it better not to.

unless you know someone or do some work yourself it's going to run closer to the $2,000+ side of that range. of the people i know that paid to have this done, i've never seen it done for less than $2,000 (unless you're doing at least some of the work). these swaps are usually AWD swaps, i can't recall any FWD swaps, but since that may have been the transmission coming out maybe i just didn't notice. swap it while the transmission is good so you can sell it and recoupe some costs.

forgot to mention that inexpensive SVX's often have cracked glass. windshields are very expensive. used ones can be found cheaper, but you'll need to find one and go pick it up and installers don't warranty them and won't assume any liability for breakage on installation.

my XT6 is much nicer, i only install the top bolts in the fans, since i have no covers i can have the first timing belt off in 5 minutes. i read on here that the clutch fan isn't even necessary except for the a/c. the a/c is non-working as of yet, so i'm not installing the clutch fan back in place. i'll get to the a/c this summer, it's a friends car. thanks for the input. i used the two wrench method and managed the last one by hand. the long 10mm wrench is the way to go, clears the fan blades. thanks all.

i've seperated the front and rear halves a billion times and others have as well, because they've gotten just one half from me. never seen or heard of a problem. never heard of issues with the center carrier bearings being damaged, i've never seen one of those fail, but they are just bearings so they can. if it were me i'd check the rear ujoints as well while it's off and replace it if any of the ujoints are lumpy feeling, it's very obvious if they are. might want to have the entire driveshaft in hand just in case, that may be what he's thinking as well.

transmission issues are common. install a trans cooler when you get it. $1,400 is reasonable...but there are lots of variables. the svx engine bolts right up to an EJ transmission, so finding a legacy or impreza 5 speed to work is easy and cheap. but this kind of trans swap is labor intensive though, plenty possible and huck has documented all the fab work needed. there are also very expensive kits available on-line to do the swap. there's no way anyone can tell you a price on that because it's highly dependent on who you get to do it. most mechanics, if you can find one willing to do more custom work like this, will charge alot for this kind of work. you could get lucky and find someone willing to do it, but chances are more likely the price would be very high. you'd have to ask around, see if you know any mechanics...etc. or just buy the expensive kit and have it done. or maybe huck can build one for you!

you'll need to replace that bad crank pulley. i've never seen a bad pulley cause this, and i've seen a number of bad pulleys, but none on a 2.2 yet. it is certainly an obvious possibility that needs to be addressed before resorting to guesswork. the wobbling could easily be putting stress on the water pump shaft, seal and bearings.

well i hate to admit i've never noticed the shaft is square. i've always done it a different way, i'll refrain from explaining. i didn't even notice the one today that i removed!?!? too much XT6 in my blood. i will say i won't be reinstalling that four-letter-word thing.

what's the easiest way you people have of removing the 4 10mm bolts that hold the clutch fan in place?

checking the codes wasn't the problem, by now i have most of the popular ones memorized for the EA/ER series stuff. i need to know where the ECU was in the loyale. now..if the set up is different...like the ECU doesn't blink the codes like the XT's then i would be confused no matter what, search or no search. i'm headed out now to look for it.

the EJ engine won't bolt up to the EA trans. best bet is to get an EJ trans too (get a wrecked EJ), but an adapter plate will allow you to bolt an EJ up to an EA trans if you wanted too. over here EJ vehicles are fairly easy to get (depending on where you live), with some effort you can easily end up with an EJ vehicle for next to nothing, so that's part of the reason there's so much leaning that way.

don't forget to check the alternator and battery connections. bad connections at the battery won't allow the alternator to charge it properly. the end links should not be able to be turned by hand on the battery terminals. and the terminals and end links should be very clean, free of corrision and build up. same goes on the alternator end, the plastic plugs are the most notorious for failing with age, they turn to brittle plastic and short out. what thye all said. many chain auto stores will test alt's for free, have them test it. the lights on the dash typically light up. address it now before fusible links or more start to fail. bad alternators do bad things to battery's as well. it is very common to replace both within a short period of time...replace battery then within 6 months the alt goes bad or replace alt and within 6 months the battery goes bad. keep an eye on the battery after installing the new alt.

XT6 doesn't have ABS in the US. i've never noticed any changes in the trans when braking in the bunches of XT6's i've owned over the years. not saying that nothing happens, but it's certainly nothing significant. at this point the systems on the XT6 are so old that new rotors, rebuilt calipers, new hoses and complete brake fluid flush will likely do much to improve your braking.

+1 on johns suggestion. i've done that exact thing before with hubs, drop off a used hub, install new bearings and install the new hub. works great, less down time and worries.

i often refer to the entire assembly as a hub and they are often offered as such, junk yards will supply them as "hubs". terminology aside the original poster knows what he needs. those pictures posted are of a AWD EJ series, his FWD will be a little different in the rear.

me too, it's always "new" ones that do it. in the 15 or so soobs i've owned and others i've worked on in the past decade, a subaru cracked boot CV axle is more reliable than a generic store bought. been there done that, never again. all mine from here on out stay cracked or get MWE replacements.

i doubt you'll find anything by your senses. i think a lightly dragging caliper can reduce mileage without any other side affects. on the ones i've encountered the pads didn't even show any sign of abnormal wear nor did the rotors need turning. but the new pads and grease helped. it was always an after-thought, the next couple tanks would be better gas mileage.

you'll want to keep an eye on it. one or even a couple tanks worth may not show accurately what you're getting. if it's only been a week, then it's likely only been a tank or two right? that's not enough to verify what mileage you're really getting. your next tank could easily be fine...or suck even worse! towing shouldn't affect anything. the only thing i can think of is if you used your brakes alot maybe your calipers are dragging some. i've had vehicles get substantially better mileage after just installing new pads. my guess is greasing the slides helps the caliper keep the pads off the rotors better. at 138,000 miles greasing the slides on the calipers may not be a bad idea. could have just been coincidental or the extra heat from towing could have caused it to come sooner than had you not been towing. that's a very light load, i think this is mostly coincidental. i would bet your low mileage would have come had you never towed....might have been delayed a little longer, but probably would have come anyway.

the first and second gear issue is really an entirely different topic and it's been discussed before. the bottom line is that 1st and 2nd perform nothing like this duty C modification, so no matter the reasons they do not compare in function.

there's at least three on the xt6.net board as well. one in NZ, one in WV and myself....and i think derrick as well, but i'm not sure. no problems and we had this done well before anyone on usmb attempted it, although i think one person did it, but either way, well before it was documented and publicized here.

it's very simple. if you can wire a switch, you can wire an indicator light. i installed an LED and wired it on the same circuit, that's all. ground on one side, power on the other. make sure the switch that you buy has room for two circuits, that's all. wire the "duty solenoid" on one circuit, then the light on the other. that way when you turn it "On", it's completing both circuits...one for the solenoid, the other for the light. a radio shack or sound system place would likely be able to help you with it if you're having trouble picturing it.

i didn't want to turn this into another thread like all the rest, but since i'm being accused of lying.......i have yet to see a person mention any actual failures. i did a search for "duty solenoid" and the second thread that pops up (after this one), is the popular thread, that i was speaking of, with much exposure that i asked multiple times for one person that had issues and not one person responded with a non-mistake related issue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65716&page=6&highlight=duty+solenoid the people that are most concerned with proving how terrible this modification is are the ones that have never done it. i'm all about getting both sides of the information out there, so long as it's accurate. there are a number of people at xt6.net that have done it as well...no failure yet, even on 20 year old auto trans with who knows how many miles, previous owners, lack of ATF changes, and sets of tires on them.

if you had any transmission issues, i'd have the fluid changed. there's no telling when it was done last anyway.

my vote is for wheel bearings. did you try turning the wheel/hub by hand and seeing how much play or noise/roughness is in the hub?

around here EJ22's are so easy to come by for next to nothing that you might be better off starting over with a known good engine. but you do have enough experience to go in there and do what needs to be done. keep your eye out for a wrecked, damaged or bad transmission soob with the motor you want in it. they can usually be had for little $. i have a Legacy Sedan in MD waiting for free if i can go pick the freaking thing up.