idosubaru

on the older pre-EJ series vehicles you could access the studs enough from the rear to get them out and install new ones. not sure of EJ off the top of my head with no FSM to look at either. if it's like on the older ones - you just pound the old stud out. spin the hub just right and there's just enough room to get it out without removing anything but the wheel. beat the old one out. slide the new one in from the back side too. hold it in place while you thread a nut on the end that's sticking out. use the tigthening of the nut to fully seat the new stud. it needs to be pressed in, but using a nut will "pull" it through and fully seat it. after that, remove the nut and you're done. for what it's worth i drove on 2 front studs (out of 5) before...and 3...and 4...all for hundreds of miles. no i don't recommend it, but missing one wouldn't scare me a bit. i actually had 4 out of five shear off on me one time on a highway road trip, all 4 on one wheel. i found out that a brake caliper mounting bolt is the same thread pitch has a lug nut. i remove one and installed it in my hub to hold the wheel on, tightened the remaining one real good to finish the road trip since it was 1 in the morning and got new ones the next day from subaru. fun stuff.

ask for them to apply the $500 to labor and this motor will go beyond the honda accord mileage almost garaunteed. at what mileage should they quit honoring warranty work? taking one incident and completely writing off any brand is not in your best interest. that kind of operational philosophy really does you harm in the long run. dealers are dealers, to think honda and chevy are the holy grail of manufacturers and don't make good financial decisions that in the end piss off consumers is completely rediculous. but like nipper said, to each his own. i mean this in a constructive way....if this is how you're affected by poor consumer decisions and an unwillingness to deal with issues, then i'd suggest changing the way you make decisions. don't buy an engine or transmission that hasn't been in production for at least 7 years, and do some research on the vehicles you're buying. honda, chevy, dodge, toyota...have all made mistakes in car designs and all have good and bad reputations from consumers. talk to people that know alot about cars, have worked on alot of cars and you'll find this out. anecdotally make judgement calls based on personal experience and you don't help yourself at all.

seen this posted before, did you try a search? not sure what you'd search on, but i've read others having this before.

go with CCR for any new engines. an alternate and cost effective solution is to swap a used low-mileage 2.2...lots of info in other threads about this, no need to rehash here, but those are your best options.

you're in california, they probably are considered contaminated out there! actually, you should also be able to drop them at a scrap yard/junk yard, they'll recycle them.

mike is right here. if you bought a Subaru with two different tire sizes on it - what is the most likely explanation? that Subaru made one special vehicle different from all the rest, different from the FSM, different from the owners manual and never mentioned it? no, that someone installed the wrong size tire. if you noticed a difference in sprockets on an EA82, it would more than likely be due to someone previously working on it.

agree with GD - fix codes then proceed. wow, that's awesome! that sounds nice, but that's too idealistic, to expect only people that know XT's, or EA, or EJ, or Legacy to post to a thread....alot of things cross over and the experience/info is applicable. nipper contributes daily here and helps numerous people every day. being perfect is not the goal, helping is and nipper does that dozens of times a day. and yes there were a number of models with non-EJ engines in 91.

okay, what do you need? locking rear diff? LSD center diff? how can we help?? okay..serious, any damage? doesn't look bad enough that occupants have anything to worry about. hopefully that rear fender is okay?

should be fine. at 200,000 my biggest concern would be the timing pulleys. they are not as smooth as new...eventually they start killing timing belts and this is an interference engine. i'd want new ones with that many miles.

you can not swap sensor types. yours must stay flapper style and hot wire style must stay that.

same here, the tool i had was made by someone specifically for this application. in with the local dealer at all? i know people have borrowed tools from local dealers, if they would even have it of course. have you searched at all? i'd imagine others have figured out how to do this without the special tool but my memory on this is vague. the pistons won't pull all the way through, they have to come out the top (head side). that's why you can't just split the block. although you could try and see if there's room to get to the rod bolts like GD said.

i haven't had tons of warped rotors, but the ones i have had you could tell just by rotating the tires by hand. now, i'll admit that it was very small differences, but you could feel the tire "drag" at one point while turning it by hand. try to use the same stroke and speed/force and method of spinning while going around so you're sure to notice, mine was that light. but it was there. and typically you can tell which one it is in the fronts. the front drivers side will be obvious...if you "can't quite tell" it's probably because it's the other side. not sure on the rears, don't recall tracking those down though i did replace one before.

nope, that's not the idea. there are plenty of threads about that already, i wouldn't need to start another! typically far more than $1,000. thank you, that's exactly my point!!!!!!!!! copy that, good point to remember the FWD fuse is always there for towing, mismatched tires, etc. excellent, good to know. with the trans changes in 99, that complicates things.

the AWD rear components are no issue for me, that's not an issue at all. now, if FWD trans weren't available in 1999 then that's an issue, i did not know that.

neat thread kayakertom - has it driven fine since them? no reoccurences?

you could ask questions rather than assume you're right, in this case you are wrong. good luck finding a similar late model, low mileage honda/toyota FWD for $1,000 in excellent condition. i am not versed enough in those makes to do that, with Subaru's i can. i'm not looking for something "salable", i'm trying to help out a friend and he doesn't want to deal with torque bind, towing issues, matching tires and will never need AWD. i didn't know that. is that true, all 1996 and up auto's are AWD only?

well i'm of no help here, but how did the loose shifter cable cause this? i'm trying to understand what happened, since i'm a little weak on manual trans stuff.

thanks for the TCU input-output Josh. is that for 1999 model years? i'd likely stick to a FWD 1999 trans to make sure there's no surprises. it's up to my friend, since it's his car. but i'll be doing the work so want to make sure it's possible. for now i think he's staying AWD though. but i'll keep the mount in mind if he changes his mind. thanks for the wiring info, awesome! from those diagrams it doesn't appear the electronics is really much different at all? it doesn't differentiate between FWD and AWD? was that just for the AWD or FWD or is that for both like i think it is? thanks!

the bolt on receiver/hitches, they at least spread across the bottom of the car and bolt in place. you could bolt this on and add to it if necessary. weld it to the vehicle or weld more metal to the receiver/hitch and bolt that to the vehicle. someone just posted hitches on XT's at xt6.net and they have all sorts of metal extensions going back and being bolts under the car for extra mounting points. and they used *that* to tow other cars with, so using a receiver hitch seems much safer than that.

the EA82 is easy to work on. if it's a 3AT transmission then i'd avoid it like the plague. if it's a 4EAT trans then maybe. in the end...take the info and decide. i'd never want someone else to decide what im' driving!

i never mentioned gas mileage. this has nothing to do with gas mileage. for the record, the rear bits are easy to remove. the entire cross member, rear diff and driveshaft can be lying on the ground by removing less than 10 bolts, it's very easy. that's what i'm wondering, if the TCU's, like the ECU's are interchangeable? but if that's not the case i'd still need the wiring to be compatible between the two. i may swap in a FWD TCU in one of my AWD vehicles and see what happens just for giggles. i have a 1997 impreza OBS FSM, hopefully i can find it (it's on CD and i just moved) and compare the wiring diagrams.

EA82 is fine if you can get parts for it and work on it. it has timing belts and a number of timing pulley bearings that can all fail. the EA71 doesn't have those. so if parts are hard to get, then you may want to consider the EA71 since it doesnt' have all of that to worry about. the EA82 is a fine motor. auto trans is a bad idea too if parts are hard to find.

my friend had one shipped GA to california for $500 a few years ago. i think prices have jumped significantly since. another friend did about the same price...maybe it was $600 for FL to CO this past fall. is it driveable at all?

Is it possible to swap an auto FWD trans into an AWD vehicle? My buddy lives in Georgia and would rather not have AWD. Was wondering if this could be as simple as swapping trans or swapping trans and TCU? (don't care about the rear components, that's all easy).

you made a very, very good decision here. aftermarket cause lots of problems on all EJ series engines.