idosubaru

yeah, no go on a SPFI swap. i'm willing to help out but they need a car and don't have that kind of $, and i don't have the time.

trying to help a guy and his family out with a reliable soob. i'm looking at a 1986 4WD wagon. probably has a freaking carb which i've never worked on. i'll be installing all new timing belts, water pump, oil pump, seals, battery cables, etc.... but not knowing anything about the carb, what are the best options? are they fairly reliable? how expensive is a new carb, is that overkill? from the pic's can anyone verify it's a carb'ed EA82 and what 4WD manual transmission this 1986 would have?

depending on your time and what parts run in your area, price out both options (time and $) and weigh the decision. i'd probably go for the trans swap on anything over a few years old.

tank was probably overfilled at the prior pump, either knowingly or not. no way it's getting 39mpg. even an EJ FWD manual driven at 55 mph in perfect conditions would be hard pressed to get that.

so then the question becomes - do all 87 EA82's have FI?

does an 86 wagon have carb or FI? what years/models have FI EA82's? i know a family that needs a car really bad and has no cash. i'm going to pick them up a soob (probably an EA82 vehicle) and give it all new timing belts, water pump, seals, etc.

have the clutch cable readjusted or checked. probably not the problem, but i'd want to make sure before thinking it's something much worse.

Subaru can't tell you what size they are? i don't think they varied that much by model/year. i know all the EJ rear extension housings are interchangeable so it shouldn't be that hard to figure out for the dealer at least. how about getting a used extension housing from another one, that's probably what i'd do. taking care of the tires and fluid changes and they shouldn't give you any problems. you have torque bind i assume? you've tried a couple ATF changes and all your tires match?

awesome information. in the middle of moving and i have no idea where my FSM's are, i'm hoping i find them again some day as i have them on a little tiny CD.

since i know you, i know you've already done this but might check/change the trans/gear fluids since you've gotten it. i've heard of people running the manual box with ATF for a bit, but never done it myself. all the wheels/tires are the same size and spin freely when lifted (check the fronts)? do you think maybe the car sat for this extended period because of the binding?

i've bought it at advanced auto parts in Maryland. didn't see it in on the shelves in west virginia, but that doesn't mean it wasn't there.

there's also an XT in georgia (or used to be) with a rotary engine in it as well. i think there's even a picture of it on the Yahoo! XT6 group, but that's hardly used any more.

2.2 liter automatic. advanced auto parts said EGR code for the check engine light that just came on. unfortunately i wasn't there to see it and actually ask what the code number was. i'm not familiar with EGR's since the XT6 doesn't have one, should i install a new one? i'd do a search but since the search function doesn't do 3 letter words i'm kind of stuck.

that's decades old information and not the issue. manufacturers can still demand certain quality control and specifications. just because they outsource doesn't bind them to any one particular supplier and take away their control. far from it. do you think wal-mart has cheap prices because they "know where to look" and get products from some alien source that other places don't know about? no, they are directly involved in setting the prices and tell manufacturers what they want to sell stuff for. same with OEM stuff...they can dictate to some extent what quality the product is. but i'm with you, i'll use non OE stuff sometimes. i don't think it's a big deal, though i'll stick with Subaru on the interference engine timing belts and water pumps. everyone draws their lines in different places and there's nothing wrong with that. not sure why this turns into an argument? does it matter what muffler you use? not really? timing belts, maybe. where you draw the line in between depends on lots of factors and personality apparently!

really need to know if you're doing it yourself or paying someone and if that someone is willing to give you a good deal. are you sourcing and buying all the parts or can you pick up a cheap donor complete parts car as well? the parts vary greatly depending on this and also how long you have to do this project. if you want it done quick that doesn't lend itself to sourcing cheap parts. you can do a swap for very little if you're doing most of the work and are good at sourcing parts. i've done swaps essentially for free unless you count a brand new clutch kit and standard maintenance/replacement items like that. price goes up as you drift from that....

wow. TCU replacement seems like a good place to start. i'd like to know details on the failure as well....what's the fluid look like (is it full, is it circulating properly?), what kind of pieces turn up in the fluid?

the odometer thing shouldn't be an issue. once and done, you'll probably never see issues with it again. i would do everything you can to make sure it doesn't have a head gasket leak. did the accident show up on a carfax report or just by doing a visual? make sure it wasn't a major accident and the repair was done properly. probably need a mechanic to do this unless you can verify it was not a major accident. you want to make sure the structure isn't weakened (not a crap shot of a repair) and you may want to know for certain that the air bag system is up and running after the first accident. some of the air bag components are must replace items.

XT6's weren't offered in FWD manual transmissions, only the XT's. but you're headed the right direction in that the XT6's used a different final drive ratio on the AWD manuals. the turbo XT's use a 3.7 final drive and the XT6's use a 3.9 when of the manual gender.

i believe they can manipulate them to retain the non-interference design if you want. been awhile since i talked to them, but pretty sure they are flexible and there are options.

nope. non-interference. put a new belt on and you're done. if a timing pulley bearing seized and heated/busted the belt you'll need to replace that too. the 2.5 EJ25 motor is new...didn't come out until 1996. any Subaru 1995 or earlier is non-interference. after that it's a mix, depends on engine.

you do not have to move the engine at all to do the headgaskets in the car. do not touch the transmission to engine bolts...no way. is there something that says to do that? we have the FSM Subaru Factory Service Manuals available at xt6.net that detail how to do this if you want some help. those are NOT the cam orings i'm talking about. those are just the cam seals behind the timing belts, they don't require pulling the cam to replace. you need these...like i said, they don't come with gasket kits (or at least very rarely do), that's why you don' thave them: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1986&make=SU&model=XT4-4WDT-001&category=All&part=Cam%20Housing%20O-Ring&dp=false here's the part number from thepartsbin.com if that links doesn't work: #A4002-56062 more info on this o-ring at xt6.net including the subaru part. since it's common to all EA82 and EA82T and ER27 engines, i've found most dealers have these in stock. they're $2.15 at the dealers i use. they're located between the cam carrier and the heads.

sweet, even easier. the manuals are lighter than the auto's, you'll be golden have fun!

it can crush the transmission oil pump, not the filter...that would require hydraulics or explosives to seat it *that* far!

assuming you can do it right to get them out then you can do it right to get them in. is that what you're asking? it's no harder putting it back in. just be sure to be set up to carry that weight and be careful, lifting all that off the ground isn't anything to play with not to sound like you're mom, but don't get all that off balance weight swinging. that's the beauty for him, there's no wrestling anything if you keep them together. pull out, install, nothing to line up or seat. but if you did have to seat them, it's not really much easier out of the car than in the car.

yes, i've done it. definitely pull them together. it's very easy. just have plenty of clearance to go UP with your lift to get the trans over the radiator top cross support beam. which also means don't jack your car up so far off the ground that you can't clear it when pulling the trans. not that big of a deal, you could help it over....but having all that weight swinging around that high is slightly unnerving too. it's actually way easier to pull them together you don't have to worry about separating them and wiggling, jiggling, prying, getting the angle right, getting to the torque converter bolts, getting the manual trans input shaft out....that's all much easier on the ground out of the car. if yo'ure not separating, then awesome.