idosubaru

really need to know if you're doing it yourself or paying someone and if that someone is willing to give you a good deal. are you sourcing and buying all the parts or can you pick up a cheap donor complete parts car as well? the parts vary greatly depending on this and also how long you have to do this project. if you want it done quick that doesn't lend itself to sourcing cheap parts. you can do a swap for very little if you're doing most of the work and are good at sourcing parts. i've done swaps essentially for free unless you count a brand new clutch kit and standard maintenance/replacement items like that. price goes up as you drift from that....

wow. TCU replacement seems like a good place to start. i'd like to know details on the failure as well....what's the fluid look like (is it full, is it circulating properly?), what kind of pieces turn up in the fluid?

the odometer thing shouldn't be an issue. once and done, you'll probably never see issues with it again. i would do everything you can to make sure it doesn't have a head gasket leak. did the accident show up on a carfax report or just by doing a visual? make sure it wasn't a major accident and the repair was done properly. probably need a mechanic to do this unless you can verify it was not a major accident. you want to make sure the structure isn't weakened (not a crap shot of a repair) and you may want to know for certain that the air bag system is up and running after the first accident. some of the air bag components are must replace items.

XT6's weren't offered in FWD manual transmissions, only the XT's. but you're headed the right direction in that the XT6's used a different final drive ratio on the AWD manuals. the turbo XT's use a 3.7 final drive and the XT6's use a 3.9 when of the manual gender.

i believe they can manipulate them to retain the non-interference design if you want. been awhile since i talked to them, but pretty sure they are flexible and there are options.

nope. non-interference. put a new belt on and you're done. if a timing pulley bearing seized and heated/busted the belt you'll need to replace that too. the 2.5 EJ25 motor is new...didn't come out until 1996. any Subaru 1995 or earlier is non-interference. after that it's a mix, depends on engine.

you do not have to move the engine at all to do the headgaskets in the car. do not touch the transmission to engine bolts...no way. is there something that says to do that? we have the FSM Subaru Factory Service Manuals available at xt6.net that detail how to do this if you want some help. those are NOT the cam orings i'm talking about. those are just the cam seals behind the timing belts, they don't require pulling the cam to replace. you need these...like i said, they don't come with gasket kits (or at least very rarely do), that's why you don' thave them: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1986&make=SU&model=XT4-4WDT-001&category=All&part=Cam%20Housing%20O-Ring&dp=false here's the part number from thepartsbin.com if that links doesn't work: #A4002-56062 more info on this o-ring at xt6.net including the subaru part. since it's common to all EA82 and EA82T and ER27 engines, i've found most dealers have these in stock. they're $2.15 at the dealers i use. they're located between the cam carrier and the heads.

sweet, even easier. the manuals are lighter than the auto's, you'll be golden have fun!

it can crush the transmission oil pump, not the filter...that would require hydraulics or explosives to seat it *that* far!

assuming you can do it right to get them out then you can do it right to get them in. is that what you're asking? it's no harder putting it back in. just be sure to be set up to carry that weight and be careful, lifting all that off the ground isn't anything to play with not to sound like you're mom, but don't get all that off balance weight swinging. that's the beauty for him, there's no wrestling anything if you keep them together. pull out, install, nothing to line up or seat. but if you did have to seat them, it's not really much easier out of the car than in the car.

yes, i've done it. definitely pull them together. it's very easy. just have plenty of clearance to go UP with your lift to get the trans over the radiator top cross support beam. which also means don't jack your car up so far off the ground that you can't clear it when pulling the trans. not that big of a deal, you could help it over....but having all that weight swinging around that high is slightly unnerving too. it's actually way easier to pull them together you don't have to worry about separating them and wiggling, jiggling, prying, getting the angle right, getting to the torque converter bolts, getting the manual trans input shaft out....that's all much easier on the ground out of the car. if yo'ure not separating, then awesome.

first what engine? if it's an interference engine i always go with Subaru only. if it's a non-interference engine then i'm open to more options. if this is for your Baja, then go with Subaru for sure. i've used them with no problems, but don't know mileages i got out of them. i think regreasing or replacing your timing pulley bearings is more important than what brand belt you use. belts break all the time from failed bearings, new or old, soob or not. i'll go ahead and tell you that there are plenty of people on here that will swear you must use subaru belts or your engine will kill you. they're coming....

yep - that's the claimed axle that makes it possible to swap a non-turbo EA82 trans into an XT6. that was discussed and voiced with benebobs transmission swap thread. probably some good 5 lug and suspension information at xt6.net for the people doing swaps and stuff

do they have the same 5th gear ratio's and final drive ratio's? i'm going to convert my 4WD XT into a FWD. if loyale, XT's, GL's are all the same gear ratio's then it doesn't matter where the trans comes from. i have leads on a couple different FWD EA82 trans. one is 1990 Loyale FWD trans then other is a 1987 GL sedan FWD trans (that's EA82 i think right?). i know the stock 88 XT FWD manual trans get awesome gas mileage, so i want to get a trans close to that in gear ratio.

even if you got a less than 100k motor you'd still want new timing belts, water pump, oil pump seals etc. 145k vs. 100k on a 2.2 is really nothing, where as on a turbo motor or EJ25 you might think differently. the blocks are likely to be in identical physical condition. i'd keep looking too, but wouldn't rule that one out and would feel perfectly comfortable installing it in my vehicle (with new belts, pump, seals, etc) .

to remove the engine you have to unbolt it from the transmission. if it's an automatic you have to remove the flexplate bolts from the torque converter though the access hole in the bell housing (the little rubber plug under the intake/throttle body). if it's a manual, just separate them. gradually using a wedge, chisel, heavy duty screw driver, work your way around the bell housing and pry them apart. have the engine lift hooked up and take the pressure off the engine mounts as much as possible so the engine will come loose and float out ahead of the transmission. and remember the head gaskets are easily done in the car. it'll take a good 2 hours at least to remove and reinstall the engine if everything goes smoothly (good luck). that's enough time to get the timing belts and cams off. most gasket sets i don't think come with the cam carrier o-rings at the bottom corner. they are reinforced and have to be that way, a regular o-ring is not acceptable. the only place i know you can get them other than Subaru is http://www.thepartsbin.com. this is a must replace item when reassembling. pretty sure you're a member there, but you know about xt6.net right?

shop around for exhaust, they can vary wildly whether they want to rip you or be nice. the cheapest way to get exhaust done is to have what you want in the trunk - have the muffler and converter you want (which can be bought really cheap) and stop by a place whenever it's convenient and ask how much to install them. since you have the expensive stuff already it's only a few dollars in parts and doesn't take a shop long to install them. so get a nice guy with some down time and they should throw it on for not more than $50. i had mine installed for $35. small mom and pop shops are the best. look outside of town, away from big cities as well, they are usually busy enough that they can charge higher prices. what do you mean by "brakes". you want them all done for piece of mind or they're all bad? i'd do brakes first if they have issues. price will vary by whether or not they start telling you stuff like "you need new calipers and your rotors can't be turned"...$700. pad slap them and you'll get it under $100.

i have a contacts in the auto world that allows me to go to the dealer only auctions, those are the ticket if you know someone or get access. sometimes they have public auctions as well, PA is well known for it's auctions. otherwise keep your eye out on here, ebay, etc for wrecked vehicles. they're typically not available often enough to snag when you need it, but they come up sometimes and i buy them as parts car. took me a few months to get the wrecked EJ parts cars i wanted. junk yards will sell entire vehicles, just have to see what they want for it. it's definitely not as simple as saying an auto is a 4.44 and a manual is a 4.11. Subaru tried to confuse the entire world when they went with the EJ stuff and final drive ratios...and they succeeded. there's a good list out there for nailing down the manual trans gear ratios but EJ stuff is harder to figure out, no good charts or anything that i've seen. probably the biggest PITA in dealing with transmissions.

something to ask the machine shop next time i have anything done. i've never had any problem blowing head gaskets but i've only done one turbo motor...haven't heard back from him yet?!

your state Motor Vehicle Administration or Department of Transportation...whatever they call it in your state would elaborate. if it's for legal purposes, that's the "horses mouth" so to speak. enjoy the white stuff!

seeing that it's wrecked is a big plus, you know why it was taken off the road.

yes and yes. i don't know why you would think an AWD subaru isn't considered 4wd. if it's just for the semantics of the local regulations then okay, you're fine. if it's for maximum traction you're falling far short of your vehicles capabilities by only concerning yourself with those regulations.

plenty of older soobs have both manual and automatic FWD transmissions. and some had AWD - or FT4WD. there is a BUTT LOAD of information on the subaru all wheel drive, from subaru and their Endwrench website. i'd read up on this and also search this forum. this topic has been gone over many times. the newer EJ manual trans don't have center differential locks like the old school EA manual subaru's. for automatic trans you can add a duty C switch to lock your rear transfer clutches on an automatic (i've done it to mine). an excellent modification for offroad and snow/ice conditions. but you need to understand how it works and when NOT to use it to reduce the risks to your transmission. AWD is good for 4WD conditions. the manuals will have a center diff that isn't locked and the auto's will have a TCU that controls slip. slippage starts to occur and then it locks up. i don't like that for snow/ice/mud...gets the ruts started too quickly. i like being able to control it myself which is why i use the switch, makes for awesome AWD control in offroad, snow, mud, etc. i'd rather not wait until slip starts to gain traction, so screw the TCU in bad weather and offroad.

if you need exact numbers, then ignore me. if you're looking for ballpark then 135 pounds.

i have a security clearance, so at least PM or email me!