idosubaru

this vehicle is AWD? if so then you need to get some matching tires on there soon. even if that isn't the cause of your noise it will likely be the cause of something shortly if your tires aren't matched. tires can cause noises, i'd check them out carefully. might need a shop to see if any wheels are bent or balance is off, tires are warped....etc. does it at 30 but not under? in that case i'd guess driveshaft ujoint but that's rare on a vehicle that new. how many miles? any recent repairs, accidents, important history?

i installed a new passengers side tie rod on the drivers side. was brinding the wheel when turned. whoops...forgot i did that while i was in there. thanks all....

the above ideas are awesome. i agree with attempting to pound out the drill bit first by using a smaller punch/drift from the opposite side. whether or not that works the final blow will be nailing it the opposite way, like GD said it WILL come out.

finding a 2.5 block in that price range is difficult and not common. 2.2's can be had on the cheap, but 2.5's command a much higher price tag unless you're lucky.

check fluid level and ATF lines to make sure fluid is flowing freely through them and the radiator.

nope, scrap yard.

i tried spary on 3M adhesive i saw recommended by others. didn't work a lick. i don't even think it lasted a month. dont have that car anymore so i don't know what to tell you. back in the day i had dowel rods pinned between the trim on p/s and d/s moulding to hold it up. looked real nice (nope, just kidding!).

always remember, you are only unbolting the intake, not removing it. so there's no need to disconnect all the goodies associated with it. once it's unbolted you only need to lift it enough to clean the old gasket off and slide the new ones in. there's no need to take all the stuff off of it. like he mentioned, be prepared to make sure nothing gets down the intake ports. if the intake manifold has coolant passages (i think it does..i know the older EA and ER series do), then you may want to drain the coolant some so coolant doesn't pour down into the cylinder when you lift it off as well. very simple to do.

nah, it very gently settled on the ground. the ground was soft and gave way as the car jack (a very large one) gradually tilted sideways. wheels were still on and didn't have far to fall. fell very smoothly actually. my old XT6 never would move when i jacked up one side. someone on the xt6 boards says it's because i had an LSD rear diff in that one and i haven't installed that yet in my "new" one. or maybe it was just dumb luck or bad memory? plan is to try the FWD fuse and see what happens. then jack the car up and see what i can find in terms of tire rotation/feel. what else can i look for/check? i'm almost positive it can not be simple binding as i had the duy solenoid C swithc installed in my other one and this is much worse. it nearly grinds to a halt and does not move with serious peddle and much noise/convulsions. doesn't sound too good huh? just what i need...a trans swap!

my cousins wagon with the 2.5 has more power than our 2.2 impreza OBS. unless you'll be towing alot of very heavy loads the 2.5 power difference shouldn't matter. if power does matter, turbo is the way to go.

i have a parts car i'll be removing axles from soon as well....look forward to replied.

that is awesome! interesting, i didn't think about that. the car is already "front high", i'm wondering if i just unbolt the trans if it will slide down under the car? i doubt i'll go through the trouble of pulling the entire engine/trans since i have another 4EAT, but i'd like to keep it since i know it was perfect. unbolt everything and use a come along to yank it out and support underneath?

another way is to drill a tiny hole in the face of the seal and use a self tapping sheet metal screw. screw the screw into the hole and use a hammer or pliars to pull. don't get anything near the machined sealing surfaces. don't want to scratch those.

yes i've had it done before. i've used rcengineering. much more expensive than the guys you used, but someone at XT6.net used them and felt service was good as well. the older injectors, approaching 20 years and 200,000 miles are well served by getting cleaned/rebuilt. pre and post testing can show dramatic differences.

$1,000 - $1,500 to have someone replace the headgaskets. add additional costs if including a new clutch at the same time. years with known issue are supposed to be 1996 - 2002 with 96-99 and 99-01 having different symptoms/failure modes. i avoid 2.5's but that's just me. there's *another* one for sale locally with a bad headgasket. i've yet to see any 2.2's for sale locally with bad headgaskets ever, but a little better than one 2.5 ever two months...and that's from the honest people, what about the ones that aren't telling you? the problem is very tricky to isolate when it first starts occuring, very few and random, intermittent problems (overheating). it's not a standard and easy to diagnose issue. there is not one test that absolutley confirms the headgaskets are fine.

i have a good auto trans that's attached to a seized engine (still in the car) socket and long freaking pipe - engine will not turn over at all so i can't remove the flexplate bolts. only thing i can think of is cutting the bellhousing and that's not worth the time.

can you rent the truck and tow the car? or are you trying to do this on the cheap? if you do tow with your automatic subaru, definitely install an aftermarket transmission cooler. also - if you're pulling a hill and the transmission is searching for a gear (downshifting, upshifting, downshifting) because of the incline, go ahead and manually put it in the lower gear (3rd) just for pulling the hill. when you get to the top, switch it back into Drive. just avoid the searching and constant shifting of the trans. one time is not a big deal, avoid traffic, drive slow and be very careful. ideally don't plan on doing it in one day. best to be alert and take it seriously, not being pressed for time. your car can definitely handle it, it is far more risky than not towing though. this is a question of statistics. you are much more likely to wreck the vehicle while towing, and even more so while towing such a large weight. but it can surely be done without harm to the vehicle. if you plan on doing this more than once, get the vehicle wired for electric brakes and tow trailers that are equipped with them. you can get away once without them, be overly cautious though. other people do not drive any different because you're towing something. you have to drive differently.

i'm not too optimistic. the horrible timing of it all will make for building some excellent character! i doubt it's the CV, i can't imagine that much force/binding and noise without the CV joint just blowing to pieces.

if it still fails the stupid safety inspections then i'd remove the fog lamps entirely, have it inspected and reinstall them afterwards.

hey thanks derrick. that's good to know that it can do that and it's not always an indication of a bad trans. it's a parking pawl. i only know that cause john on xt6.net mentioned it like 10 years ago on the old board and i had no idea what it was back then. i'm hopeful that 3 year old rusted cv that's been sitting for who knows how long is bad. probably not...but maybe i'll get lucky?

1991 XT6, AWD Auto. car drives fine straight, no noises at all. when i turn the wheel it grinds to a halt and if i try to go anywhere makes terrible grinding noises and barely goes with lots of shuddering and noises. at first it seemed like either way, now it only seems when i turn right. it's much more than binding since it just won't go and makes noises/shudders, it's not that the tires need to slip, it just won't go without a fight. bad front diff? could this have something to do with it: when i was swapping out wheels i jacked up the drivers side of the vehicle. as both wheels came off the ground (passengers side both still on the ground), the car rolled forward and the jack toppled over. i thought that was strange since it was in park? how could it roll forward if the gear selector was in park? didn't think anything of it and pulled the e-brake. i had left the e-brake off because i was installing new pads while i had the wheels off. after getting it back on the ground i had the problem immediately (but no problems at all before), so it seems like they are more than likely related. i'm wondering if the diff is bad or something with the parking? i had the drivers side suspension all apart last week as well, replaced the cv axle on the drivers side with a used one off my parts car. could the axle itself break internally and cause binding?

if the years are the same i'd bet you'd have dave's experience and it'll work fine even without swapping the TCU (but you can give him that too and that may work better). the farther apart the trans are in years and the closer you get to any changes in wiring, then you might have issues. i don't know when those changes took place though. i believe 1998 or 99 was a big change (screw on filter type 4EAT). and then the late 80's/early 90's 4EAT differs from the ones installed in the EJ series as well, but i don't know by how much.

copy that. i like the screwdriver best...i'm thining large chisel/digging bar/crow bar. probably better to put the tension on the sprocket than them dinky 6mm bolts. i've used old timing belts before as well, wrap them around the sprocket and hold on tight. the new gen guys use vice-straps as well.

yep mismatched front and rear final drive ratios.

(10mm) i use one of the bolts to hold it in place while i loosen the others. when you get to the last one you'll have to hold one that yo'uve already loosened and it'll tighten as you loosen the last one. but it'll tighten less than it was before...keep going until you can break the last one without holding any of the other bolts. on newer EJ engines the cam shaft itself has a notch on it that is perfect for fitting a wrench onto and holding it in place while knocking the cam bolt off (one bolt on the newer motors). never looked to see if the EA series has those but might be worth a look.