idosubaru

dude you're almost there....same thing now except missing one step. tighten strip make-something-work

i thought about that as well but i'm almost certain it wouldn't work. with some customizing you could use EA82T injectors on the XT6, the EA82T ECU to drive them and just duplicate the signals for the other two injectors, but then you'd have to time them properly anyway....which is a MS-like process. extra injector and stock XT6 ECU is the way to go without getting into stand alones. but hey.....there's always one way to find out! do it! when i get the turbo on mine i'll swap in an EA82T ECU and see what happens.

or....the TPS screws strip. so you end up drilling them out. another favorite of TPS fun.

good point. tire companies would have you believe that if you buy new tires and don't get an alignment at the same time the tire will detread and separate within minutes. i'm a little peeved at the hundreds of needless dollars i spent in the past, trying to make up for lost time and save others. let me say it this way....proper alignment is very important. but that doesn't mean it needs to be done with every tire change. i will also correct myself based on your comment on another point, most cars (newer ones for sure) should definititely be inspected closely or aligned after suspension work. the older subaru's (that i mentioned before) don't have all the degrees of alignment so they may not be as susceptible as most vehicles. EA and ER series subaru are missing one of the three adjustments, it's not possible.

not true. they are replaceable...sort of. if you know how to do it and get the right parts. they are not designed to be replaceable. they are designed as a part of the driveshaft without the intention of greasing or replacing. it can be done, but it's not a typicaly u-joint replacement on the EA82 and ER27.

listen to 1 lucky texan. alignments are not necessary. i've put 100,000 miles on a car, had the suspension apart multiple times, driven off road, and never get alignments. even after the repairs that "require" alignment. i replace ball joints, hubs, struts, tires....never get alignments. my tires have always warn perfectly even. until they start to wear uneven i'm not dropping money on an alignment (or more importantly letting someone else touch my car).

i'm still stuck at "fog lights never made sense to me". i've yet to see them make any difference driving in the fog. inspection is like any other system, lots of things to pick apart, but you gotta play it. the title of this thread is really the beginning and the end of it.

make sure they are OEM Subaru wires. that can cause problems similar to what you are describing. the newer EJ22 (your 2.2 liter) and EJ25 motors are not very forgiving and don't work well without OEM wires. NGK plugs should also be used. the ignition coil pack would also be a good thing to look at. but a used one for a couple dollars and swap it in.

it's easier to talk in terms of your circumstances, what is happening? to try and answer....it could and it is designed to do that. but that doesn't always happen. it is possible to have a bad sensor but not throw the CEL. that shouldn't happen, but it can (though rare).

the ujoints are not replaceable. they are staked in ujoints and there is no replacement. but - rockford does make a ujoint that will work in place of the OEM design. requires a little work to install them, but afterwards they are greasable and replaceable. i rebuilt my XT6 driveshaft this way. forget how much the ujoints cost, but they charged $50-$100 to install all new ujoints that i purchased, i forget exact price. well worth it for a new driveshaft.

i highly doubt you'd have to remove the steering rack to remove the inner tie rod. i've never done it, but i've removed/installed a number of steering racks. i would be very surprised to hear differently. should be a fairly straight forward process. the outer tie rod is only attached by one bolt, so once you remove that it will dangle down freely and you should have access to the inner rod and boot as needed.

from NAPA? the ones i've bought before suck hardcore. i'd imagine a good stainless variety that doesn't rust should work. the ridges arent' good for flow, but we're not talking high performance here and is a great way to do it yourself. how long has he had it on his truck? lots of miles/use on it? so...this has 2 O2 sensors and you're worried about removing one of them? can you reinstall the sensor somewhere else? O2 bungs are 2 dollars at the shop, maybe you can just install one in your new exhaust setup. guy gave me one free when i stopped in the muffler shop and asked for an O2 plug. or as a last resort, let them install it for you in the pipe you're going to use. let us know how it goes.

this is a board members RX now sitting in my driveway. the rear wheels are collapsed in due to rust and the wheels are resting on the inner fender well. they are mighty picky though with inspections...funny thing, this car passed inspection last year!?!?

i thought that SPFI and MPFI all had the same fuel pumps. all non-carbbed EA82's have the same fuel pump. do a search, there was a great thread just yesterday about fuel pumps, lots of pic's and aftermarket fuel pumps discussed there.

where your arrow points and says "here i use my hand to shake"...that's the inner tie rod. it connects to the rack underneath the boot. here is a picture of a set on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-XT-Coupe-Turbo-85-87-Front-OEM-Inner-Tie-Rod-Set_W0QQitemZ8043773358QQcategoryZ33593QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem you'll notice the threaded ends that extend beyond the boot. the other end is the part "inside" the boot where you seem to have some play.

it's not that uncommon to hear the fuel pump. either that, or all mine are louder than normal! i've never had to replace a fuel pump except when i first bought a subaru...seems letting them sit rusts the fuel pump to the point of leakage. otherwise i had 198,000 and 196,000 on 2 XT6's with the original pump (same pump as EA82 subaru's). my most recent daily driver is around 220,000 with i believe the original fuel pump. i did remove it once to test it or swap it into a non-running vehicle temporarily, but pretty sure i reinstalled the same one. never had one fail on a daily driver over the past 15 years of owning subaru's.

outback/legacy alloys look great and are the 15" variety. impreza WRX wheels look excellent and come in 16". got no pictures of mine but that what i had before i started reconstruction.... for XT6 pic's and info go to http://www.xt6.net

edit..

i have nothing to add to the rebuild stuff, but on pulling a seal, i like the method of drilling a small hole and using an appropriately sized self tapping screw to thread down in the seal. then pull it out with the screw head. racks are fairly easy to replace and don't fail too often, might be easier to replace used.

i was picturing this thing lying flat and bending over to use it!

the vent for the transmission is usually at the top, but i'm not famliar with yours. that could be a drain tube, most subaru's have one down in the area. it's not vacuum related or anything.

no. be sure to include your year/model to help with answering ?'s.

too little exhaust in place is a bad thing - it can damage your exhaust valves. but no worries there, large exhaust won't cause that. a lack of one or very radical changes would cause that. if the exhaust is too large i would suspect a loss of low end power. on the various exhausts i've tried on the XT6, anything too open, no cat and large pipe is sluggish at low RPM's and wants to downshift all the time going up hills. not my cup of tea. i would expect similar results on the EJ22. 2.5" seems like the upper limit for normal use. my experience is minimal, but i'd probably stick with 2" or 2.25" unless you find yourself driving in the high RPM range often. if you're staying under 4,000 rpm's most of the time going over 2.25" might not offer you much. looking forward to some results on this as well, post back what you try and what you get.

flex pipes suck. i've seen some that are stainless steel and might be better but the ones at the local stores i've seen and used rust out in less than a year. maybe if you verify that it's stainless or something, paint it or coat it to prevent it from rusting away. otherwise how long they last is not worth the time or money spent fixing it. i'd rather ride around with an open exhaust until i can fix it right. (like i'm doing with subeman's old XT Turbo right now). advanced carries bolt on exhaust parts. price them out, XT mid-pipes with the converter and flanges all on them are only $90. what i do is take the old pipe to a shop, have them bend the tube like stock then weld on flanges as needed. post in the parts wanted forum, might be able to find one for sale. i have a 1997 OBS that i'm not going to need the mid and rear exhaust parts for. 2.2 motor, exhaust should bolt up to yours. PM me quick though if you want it soon, i won't have internet access all weekend.

of course. but, they used one platform to create the other so similarities could be enormous and that was proved when the XT6 (6 cylinder) ECU worked on my XT (4 cyilnder) engine. the other two were fried ECU's. the XT6 ECU ran great, perfectly smooth. i agree, i would think it would cause issue. i can't believe i didn't get any IAC valve (a component only on the XT6 ER27 engine) or other issues....but i didn't. car ran great. idled high...which confuses me since the throttle plate is closed and the AAV valve wasn't connected. ran great, that's all i know. you're crazy 1989 XT non-turbo i agree, probably best to have the right ECU and one is on the way.