idosubaru

i've run all sorts of exhausts on the older subaru's with no CEL or O2 sensor issues. i wouldn't worry about that. the XT6, 6 cyilnder, runs nice with 2.25" exhaust. xt6.net has dyno plots and stuff about this thanks to myxphlyx (also a member here). on the EJ22 i don't know, it's different. the XT6 gets 1-3mpg better on all highway driving and i believe a 4-7 hp and torque increase going to 2.25" according to his dyno plots. EJ22 is a different beast, but i'd expect some small gains if it's not too large. i've had straight pipe on my XT6 and it definitely looses power and mileage. maybe it has more power REALLY high...like 5,000 rpms, i don't know, but it's not where i normally drive so it did me no good.

striking out searching. are the EA82 injectors and EA82T injectors different? the ones i have from an RX and XT Turbo look identical to the non-turbo JDM injectors. i just installed the JDM EA82 into my XT - so it's non-turbo. i want to make sure i'm not running turbo injectors. i'm using the N/A JDM intake, so i would think they are non-turbo but who knows, they look the same.

Myxalplyx has done some dyno and testing with fuel pressure regulators, i think he had one on the RX actually. you might want to search for his results. there's also some flow testing done by gravityman on XT, XT Turbo, XT6 and nissan injectors here: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4533&highlight=fpr

correction gas guzzling EJ22. nice wagon for sure. what happens if you remove the front sway bar? doesn't sound like a good idea.

check the fluid level in the trans, front and rear diff. or drain/refill. grinding is typical of a differential failure. not sure where to find diagrams.

if it's gear related then it's likely transmission related. if it's speed related then engine, trans, drive train. RPM related then engine or drive train. have you tried giving it throttle to high RPM's standing in front of the car with the hood open? or you already know it's only while moving?

what is up maryland guy. i can't believe all these maryland peeps i'm seeing lately. subaru steering racks have a low failure rate, so i'd say it's personal preference. i've never replaced my fluid, i've had three stock racks at 198,000, 196,000 and 220,000 miles. still have those racks actually, the body couldn't make it past all the rust. changing fluids is never a bad idea, i think i'd be more concerned with brake fluid and coolant changing though. coolant systems and brake components have a higher failure rate and more likely to have contamination.

have you replaced the blown intake gasket? can you double check the wiring of the O2 sensor?

change the transmission and rear differential oil and adjust the clutch while you're at it. traditional torque bind won't show itself when driving straight. you may have differential issues (front or rear) but that's not torque bind. i'd check and change all the trans and diff fluids and see if there is anything in the old oil. sucks the dude drove it with low tires but hopefully it's okay. might want to double check that all the tires match in size. is the engine tapping or slapping? might want to look up tapping, ticking, slapping by doing a search here and see if any of those issues sound like yours. tapping would make sense with the low oil if you have oil pressure loss at the oil pump. not an immediate concern assuming it's not loosing tons of oil and you can put up with adding it/having a few spots on the ground.

you can try a spark plug thread chaser, but like mentioned earlier there isn't likely enough metal left to work with. but it's free and something you can do yourself so it may be worth a shot. if that doesn't work you can install an insert. that requires nothing but the inserts and some tools, no engine disassembling beyond removing the spark plug. there are kits to do this, if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself...well, if you've never done it then it might be best to let a shop do it. there is chance of getting debris in the cyilnder, so this isn't the best place to start if you're not familiar with the process. a shop will charge $75 - $100 to do this. ask about the kits in an autoparts store and read the directions on the back to see if you want to try it yourself, or talk to the guys at the parts store, they may be able to show you the tool and how to do it. good luck and have fun. price the O2 sensors at an auto parts store and get the Universal type, not the direct fit type. the universal type requires removing the old O2 sensor and cutting off the electrical connector on it (you're throwing it away anyway!). then just connect the wiring harness to the new universal O2 sensor which will just have one loose wire on it. these can be had for older subaru's (like EA82 and ER27's) for 19.99. the direct fit O2 sensors are exactly the same as the one i just mentioned, but come with the wiring connector already attached. but for $40 savings you get the same thing and it only requires attaching one wire. very simple. if you can remove the spark plug, you can splice on the connector! as a side note - the car will run fine without the O2 sensor in case you're worried about jacking it up. but it's so easy i can't imagine any glitches. good luck and have fun.

are the RX and XT Turbo any different? same i'm guessing, rear discs and sway bar?

make sure they are OEM wires. anything else is problematic on the EJ series motors. on firing order - they make it sound worse than it is. just make sure you plug the wires in the right spots. that's all they saying. you can install in any order any way you want, just make sure they right plug connects to the right output of the coil pack. in other words - put the new ones where the old ones were! real simple, hard to explain in words. any gain in power/mileage would be attributed to getting the car back to stock condition and getting rid of your mis-fire. the wires won't add anything significant themselves beyond the tune-up factor which is a good one.

that's part of the equation, but there is far more involved than that. i've done a lot of number crunching on these mileage figures over the years of owning various XT6's. proof is right here, all highway miles, road trip numbers, i've owned about a dozen of these i'm fairly familiar with them: Subaru XT6 automatic AWD - 28.5 mpg roughly 3,000 rpms at 75 Subaru XT6 manual AWD - 27 mpg roughly 3,500-3,700 rpms at 75 unless you want to take the side that automatics are more efficient than manuals (which noone would do), the optimum running range for highway gas mileage for the kind of driving i do is in the 3,000 RPM range. my automatics have given me better gas mileage and that's cruising 75 - 80 mph....i may get better if i drove 65 but i'm not about to do that on a long road trip. that being said - an old FWD manual EA82 non-turbo subaru can get 40 mpg. but i don't recall the RPM's those transmissions run, it's been a long time since i've owned the only FWD subaru i had. but i got 40 mpg on highway trips. i'm not a fan of the higher gearing of manual trans either, but it shouldn't affect the motor at all, but it does seem better gas mileage could be had with different gearing on the manual trans.

as i mentioned in the other post, no issues on 5 speeds. entirely different transmissions, parts, no electronics. the 4 wheel drive system isn't even remotely similar.

what was said. thermostat. make sure fan(s) are coming on. flush radiator. water pump. all of these are more likely than head gaskets unless it's been overheated in the past.

must be a maryland thing. i have one entirely ziptied in place on my XT6, with a FREAKING EZOUT (they SUCK) still wedged in the one of the holes i was trying to get a sheared bolt out of years and years ago. looks funny, but i can't get it out. and the one on my XT Turbo is currently on with one bolt and needs a ziptie or two to get it back under the car. i don't know if i'd believe anyone that said those bolts came out without breaking due to rust. mine always do. i installed a Summit Racing pump....forget which model exactly. it would not work installed on the car? i had a thread about it awhile ago. off the car with 12 volts it ran fine. on the car it didn't???? stock pump worked fine, i was just trying to upgrade from my 20 year old 220,000 mile stock pump. i have the same pump as myxyphlyx on the board has on his XT6. he is running it with no problems. i'll try it again on my XT here shortly. nothing that interesting in the thread, but if anyone wants a look old post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40404&highlight=fuel+pump

they also sell fusible link wire. buy a roll of fusible link wire for a dollar or two and make your own fusible links with the original end links or standard electrical ones off the shelf will work too. i've done it. a handful from the junk yard for 50 cents is nice too if you have the time. they are standard across a zillion models, years, and engines.

excellent details and pics on repackings cv's here: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5460 sounds like you got a busted joint. might be a clip or something, but i'd start sourcing another axle and be prepared. others have mentioned situations like this, but i can't recall details. the information is on this board if you'd like to search for it. good luck. axle removal is fairly straight forward, though i replace instead of rebuild. you should'nt have any problems.

use NGK plugs and most importantly use Subaru OEM wires only. i use magnecor myself, but would not trust any aftermarket wires otherwise. these engines are not forgiving when it comes to ignition. you should get a cylinder misfire code though if your ignition wires/plugs are to blame, but not necessarily true all the time.

WOOO HOOOO!!!!! mucho thanks! i'll buy you a happy meal next time you're in maryland!

i don't believe so on EJ transmissions. if it did, it would be a completely different kind of failure, only similiar symptoms. auto and manual transmissions share nothing in common really. entirely different concept, design and operation. no electronics on a manual trans. older EA and ER series manual transmission subaru's from the 80's and early 90's have center differential locks that could cause similar symptoms. but not until the newer LSD center diff versions could you have any issues like that. these LSD centers are rare and i would expect few issues like this though on an LSD type center diff.

what you deserve and are entitled to and what you will get offered are different things. insurance companies don't pad profits by paying out as much as possible. they typically short change you. your best bet is to go to the hospital and get a lawyer. not that i've done it, but that is the easy way to get your car fixed properly if you don't have the persistence and aggressiveness to persue something like this yourself. attorneys carry clout and are a liability to an insurance company - an individual has niether of these to leverage. you can get whatever you want. the more aggressive and demanding you are, the more you'll get out of them. this is assuming it's your fault. good luck, hope they offer you something fair. i'd look for replacement, it's a good car that could last another 10 years. a cheap fix wouldn't be my choice. if you don't plan on having it for much longer then it might not be worth it to you to bother with that.

Awesome.

imdew i don't have an FSM or the technical info you want, but that's the Duty Solenoid C. you can replace just that solenoid. should see some wires around the rear extension housing. one would be the rear speed sensor, the other the duty solenoid C, unless the wiring is enitrely internal which i can't imagine it is. duty solenoid C is replaceable though, that may fix your problems. be interesting to see how it tests out, definitely post your results. copied from another thread: "The connector is just under the hood over the torque converter housing. There are two found in this area -its the one closest to the driver side. It is a 16 contact connector in a 4X4 configuration. To test solenoid C (AWD) electrically, place an ohmmeter between pins 4 and 11 on the connector half going to the transmission. Looking at the contact side of the connector and the locking tab facing up, the pin numbering will start 1 on the upper right corner going left and down. So 4 will be on the upper left corner and 11 will be the third row, second from the left. This should show 9-17 ohms if solenoid windings haven't burned or wire connection hasn't been severed. " you will not experience any problems. i've driven that way on more than a couple subaru's in automatic and manual form. that being said....pretty sure your Duty Solenoid C is stuck because i don't think the car is driveable with the rear driveshaft disconnected unless: in a manual - the center differential is locked in an automatic - the rear transfer clutches are "locked" via Duty solenoid C this thread has some information about torque bind... if you can sift through all the tangents or just do a search for "torque bind" you'll get a ton of info on it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48865&page=9&highlight=duty+solenoid+modification

thanks. last night i pulled apart EA82T and XT6 ECU's and they are identical except the XT6 has 3 resistors in one area where the EA82T has 2. same resistors, just one extra. the EA82T has a spot marked and labeled for one, it's just not there. i actually plugged the XT6 ECU into my EA82 and it fired right up and drove great! idled high at about 2,000 rpms, but otherwise drove great to my surprise!! all connectors were identical even. the EA82T ECU's are "bad" i believe but i didn't see any bad connections or friend resistors/transistors inside. i ordered another ECU since both EA82T ECU's i have don't run when installed. i'm still completely puzzled that the RX ECU would prime the fuel pump, flashed 2 codes but wouldn't spark. and the XT Turbo ECU would show no codes, sparked fine but would run the fuel pump. hard wiring the fuel pump i could get it to start but it wouldn't run at all. i could only keep it running by varying the gas pedal intensely...holding it steady would make it cut out. oh well, they are junk ECU's i suppose. thanks for the help guys!