idosubaru

yes NA motor. turbo stuff all gone. update - i solved the ECU issue. this is twice in a row that i've swapped motors (last time on my XT6) and had multiple parts failing...really pissing me off. the RX ECU would not spark - but gave fuel??? the XT Turbo stock ECU would spark - but no fuel. so i hard wired the pump with a switch inside the cabin that i can turn on/off for now. car started right up. i guess that ECU has issues of some sort with the fuel circuit cause the RX ECU worked fine with the pump. i'll source another ECU for now. new issue is that the car won't idle at all, i have to keep pushing the gas pedal in and out to keep it idling. intake/vaccum hoses maybe? still not sure if the waste gate or turbo pressure device can cause any problems with the idling/running. getting closer, thanks for the heads up.

elec will definitely be the tricky part, i don't know what to tell you on that. can you just swap the block and leave everything on the turbo in place? the carbed block will swap fine with no issues at all, no intake, no exhaust, no ECU, no issues. you'd just need new head gaskets. install the turbo heads to the carbed block.

here's the part in question zoomed in. there's a dropping resistor here and i can't make out the picture too well as i zoomed in on his larger pic. but ther'es also something else here....waste gate controller. but i have a non turbo EA82 in it, so what do i do with this thing? plug it in or not? will it affect starting/running? i don't have any FSM with turbo stuff in it.

yes, the silver box bolted to the strut tower. i have two parts there - the dropping resistor which is fine and all plugged in (tested resistance and all, all good). the other thing connected to it, i believe is the waste gate controller, but i can't verify it and it's hard to see in the picture of the entire engine bay. it has two vacuum lines and two other lines...i guess that go to the turbo, but i don't remember pulling it off. i don't have it plugged in. do i need it for a non-turbo engine? do the lines need to be hooked up to anything? i'll play with it when i get home i suppose. what does it do? can it affect starting/running?

i just swapped in an XT MPFI into an XT Turbo. having issues - did you ever get pictures of this setup? what did you do with the waste gate controller...that thing bolted to the droping resistor on the passengers side strut tower behind the air box? it has two vaccuum line connections and two other fittings that i guess are turbo related. i have no idea what this thing is and if it will effect starting, but mine won't start and this aint hooked up! curious what you did with yours.

i'm going to check out this waste gate nonsense and check for fuel at the injectors. i won't have access again until monday.

hey, welcome to the board from maryland. when your timing belt service is ready, email me. and hey! i'll pour fuel cleaner in your tank for only $50, and no tax!!!!!

some dealers gouge you..this is why i hate dealers....they are making money off of you and offer you nothing. my cousin has an outback and gets it all dealer maintained. CRAZY....every single time she goes in it's about a $200 bill at least..sometimes closer to a grand, i can show them to you. it's insane what all they've charged her for...thousands of dollars extra on a 2002 wagon. 90,000 miles and she's had so much stuff done to that car you'd think it's a POS if you looked at the stack. then you see it's all unecessary when you look at the bills. they quoted her $699 for timing belt change, i did it for cost of parts. fuel cleaner - no way. at 63,000 that's crazy talk. if you want to pay them $109 to add $4 worth of fluid that isn't necessary and you can do yourself, then it certainly won't hurt your car. 105,000 mile timing belt for you. have fun at the dealer, as for me they can kiss my backside.

no dressing needed on any subaru gasket. water pump gasket could use some of that tack sealant and that's all you should need. thermostats too...but i think you will find an o-ring on your thermostat so nothing needed there.

i knew that was you bouncing around between forums. you could have someone mail you parts you need. there are top hats, bushings and stuff up there, i'd try to get someone to mail you everything.

if money is an issue, i'd leave the projects on the back burner. no point in creating possible problems and costs that aren't necessary. get on top of things then start playing. i'd vote for you to keep two running vehicles as is for now. sorry to sound like your mom. you could get a swap done in the weekend if you don't run into issues. have all the stuff out of the donor car and ready to go before you pull the one on your daily driver.

on older subaru's you reuse the head bolts, 99 percent sure the newer EJ models are the same. no gasket dressing neccessary or recommended on the head gaskets.

i think clutches, throw out bearings and flywheels only differ from AWD to FWD, but are still interchangeable. you need to keep everything FWD or AWD for the clutch parts. but i'm not familiar with carbed models at all.

the XT front struts i've seen have much larger diameter springs on the front than in the back. are you buying parts individually or can you buy the entire strut assembly? i'd get XT FWD or EA82 FWD struts and install those. for future refernce, on the rears you can remove the top plate and flip it upside down to lower it another inch or something.

what did you hold it in place with when you started welding? "to the left john" "a little higher" "okay, don't move!!!!" fire up the welder.....

those revolutions will not cause oil loss you're describing. i've got 150,000 mile motors that are "geared too low" in my oppinion as well. the old manual trans motors are similar in the XT6. you won't see oil loss on these motors at 50,000, 100,000, 150,000...etc. you should have that kind of oil loss inspected and corrected. i've heard others have similiar oil loss issues on some newer soobs.

cool, can anyone verify what this thing does. how to bypass it on a non-turbo car and what it plugs into? anyone got a pic of the hoses for it?

i just posted a couple threads this week about gaskets and such. pulling the engine if it's an EA82 is way over kill. by the time you have the engine out i can have the timing belts, cams and heads laying on the work bench....well, depending how rusty those timing covers are, but i break them off anyway. even the head gaskets are easily done with the motor in the car. pulling the exhaust, vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, radaitor hoses, throttle cables, clutch cables, hill holder, cruise control, wiring, motor mounts, transmission mounts lining up the transmission, splitting the case. it's all easy and straight forward but bottom line is that it takes time. definiltely nice working on a motor on the ground, but unless you need clutch/rear main seal work everything else is easy with the motor in the car. timing belts, pulley bearings, water pump, oil pump seals are all great items to consider if you like reliability. good luck.

i doubt the engine is permanently seized. if it never ran that would be hard to believe. piece of plastic won't keep an engine from turning over...at least not right away.... 22 mm crank bolt. remove plugs and turn it over by hand. look for fluid (gas) in the cylinders when you pull the spark plugs.

crank sensor is fairly common, very easy to replace. i'd guess it can cause starting issues and definitely the check engine light. they don't fail that often so i'd consider a used one if new is expensive. i wouldn't be too concerned with starting issues if the car runs okay - starter, battery, battery terminals or cables. all really easy stuff to figure out. sounds like a good deal.

thanks boosted balls, looked at the RX at my place and it's the same. so i'm assuming same part, been searching for a pic. DANG IT - i was hoping this was my issue. that would explain the code 44 i'm getting. why do i get the 44 code on the RX ECU but not the XT Turbo ECU? RX gives a code 44 and primes the fuel pump. XT Turbo ECU does neither one of these....sounds bad but i'm confused at the moment. got compression. got spark. got air. seems like i get fuel on the RX ECU...but who knows.

EDIT - will an NA motor run fine on a turbo ECU. car was originally turbo, i put in a non turbo motor. well crap...what is this thing bolted to the dropping resistor on the passengers side right behind the air box? i don't have it plugged in? maybe that's my issue.

44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models) 45 Pressure Sensor Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models) could either of these turbo items cause a non-turbo motor to not get fuel? anyone know where these items are located? will an NA car run fine on a non-turbo ECU? i think they will.

dang it, that's what i have. i was hoping that was my problem.

yep, it's all good. was thinking about that, but that it runs fine with the RX ECU really has me baffled? what is the thing bolted to the dropping resistor on the passengers side? has an elecrical plug, two vacuum attachments and two other hose fittings and i have no clue what they are for? i assumed this was a turbo gizmo....