idosubaru

you're in the right forum. nothing will swap for you easily. the radio has a different plug on it as well, nothing that can't be rewired of course. wheels won't swap, not much will without modification. the front seats may, seats are usually interchangeable with a little work but i've never heard of it being done with SVX internals. 46,000 miles, that's insane. probably a toasted transmission. have fun, another gary

i installed the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate while using the clutch alignment tool. i attached the throwout bearing to the clutch fork with new spring clips. i hope i'm not pulling this motor out again, i'll use my rationed number of 4 letter words for the month. i do not have any return spring - what is that? i know what it is, but don't recall seeing one. does the "hill holder" cable provide that function? i've heard of people removing those, i was plannign on the same. maybe i should install it for now to get the return spring function back.

i installed an engine in an 87.5 XT with all new clutch stuff. bolted new flywheel and clutch to the motor. new throwout bearing and clips. slid motor onto transmission. i installed the clutch cable and the pedal just goes to the floor and doesn't return? this was the first time i've reinstalled an engine in a manual transmission. is there any trick or just slide it onto the output shaft of the trans? somethign doesn't feel right i hope i'm not pulling the motor back out!

yetiman, you are resilient to say the least. hope you get it figured out. i'm having mad issues with mine as well.... it's 20 years old and i did a turbo to non-turbo conversion.

175 won't cause any issues. that light-load/heavy-load stuff is way overkill. you won't notice a difference assuming the 175's are decent tires, speed ratings, and all.

dylan, don't know if you're already seen it but here's a friend of mine that painted his car with wal-mart paint: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=paint+job EDIT - you were posting when i was. crack on the 87.5. good job figuring that out, where'd you get those diagrams?

now that's rediculous. the dealers don't discriminate, they try to ho$e EVERYONE! i'm not familiar with this part either, but the above statement about cleaning sounds fair to me. there are a number of sensors in older subaru's that are remedied by cleaning, i wouldn't be surprised if this one can suffer the same issues. that being said - the dealer will never clean something for you. that would take 7 minutes and not have enough labor and expense room to pad the charges. they'll replace it for $200. i bought a subaru that the owner took to the dealer and was quoted a $1,200 repair for the power steering pump at Annapolis Subaru in maryland. i offered to fix the car for the lady but she was so disgusted with it, she sold the car to me very cheap. i fixed the power steering for about $20 in parts. that's how the dealers work, they don't fix anything, they replace expensive parts!

i asked this same question within the past year and don't recall getting any feedback from anyone who's used Topline.

that someone else (me) agrees with what he said. sounds plausible. although i've found diagnosis and mechanical suggestions from "sellers" to be less than reliable. not always bad, they just don't know or transfer info well from the source (their mechanic). autozone or advanced auto parts (and others) will read the codes for free. if there's one close to the place you're picking it up from you could probalby have the codes pulled. they can check the codes in memory to verify. and yes, crank sensors are a dime a dozen. i picked one up for a couple dollars just in case. bought two subarus last year that both came 'pre-diagnosed'. both were wrong. one was a "small coolant leak, probably a hose". wrong - it was the head gasket which i fixed. the other was a major oil leak - a 4 dollar seal. i like those kinds better.

dylan - there are green and black connectors in the trunk by the ECU. i can post pictures. these are for read memory mode and diagnostic mode and clearing the memory - are those the same functions the connectors you posted serve? there are also two other harness plugs in the engine bay that i believe to be diagnostic but they are completely different. one is brown, forgot to take a picture of them last night. and HEY get to work, that still looks like an automatic pedal assembly!!! ha ha.

i believe the ECU is bad. it won't provide fuel (i have the fuel pump wired to a switch). it'll start that way, but runs bad. i disconnected the purge solenoid and AAV and the car runs the same (barely) and the ECu spits out no codes, i think it's bad. i don't have a vaccuum leak but things could be hooked up wrong. i only have the 4WD solenoid hooked up right now. i'm trying to figure out the routing of all the vacuum lines but it's not in the FSM. there's limited info, for once it's not complete on what i need!

i've used ultra grey stuff in the past with no problem. like svxpert said, use the right amount in the right places and you're fine. now i always use the anaerobic stuff, it's expensive but it is nice and is the "proper" stuff to use, no worries about using too much or getting in some passage you don't want.

the later models like you have typically get the stop leak treament from subaru. dealer says $2,400 - that's is BS. standard prices on this board are $1,200. they're trying to rip you off. the original mechanic is not to fault really...he's probably not familiar with the quirky head gaskets of the 2.5. on any other car just about i'd assume water pump, timing belt replacement as well just like he did. new tensioners...he treated you right. might want to let him know about the nasty 2.5 headgasket issues, maybe he'll offer you a deal since he missed it the first time? at least mention it to him, he'll know for the next 2.5 he sees and you'll save someone else from having the same thing happen.

got the XT running. it's an XT Turbo but i swapped a non turbo EA82 in it. now i finally got it started but it won't idle or run right. have to keep pressing the gas pedal down/up to keep it going or it sputters out. maybe the idle needs adjusted since i went from turbo to non-turbo intake and motor? could the turbo waste gate thingy or the turbo pressure thingy cause this, i don't believe so? pretty sure the vaccuum lines and air intake are all solid. car cuts out before i can play with the idle adjust screw though. any tricks to get this thing running at least? the AAV - auxiliary air valve - how does that thing work?

yes NA motor. turbo stuff all gone. update - i solved the ECU issue. this is twice in a row that i've swapped motors (last time on my XT6) and had multiple parts failing...really pissing me off. the RX ECU would not spark - but gave fuel??? the XT Turbo stock ECU would spark - but no fuel. so i hard wired the pump with a switch inside the cabin that i can turn on/off for now. car started right up. i guess that ECU has issues of some sort with the fuel circuit cause the RX ECU worked fine with the pump. i'll source another ECU for now. new issue is that the car won't idle at all, i have to keep pushing the gas pedal in and out to keep it idling. intake/vaccum hoses maybe? still not sure if the waste gate or turbo pressure device can cause any problems with the idling/running. getting closer, thanks for the heads up.

elec will definitely be the tricky part, i don't know what to tell you on that. can you just swap the block and leave everything on the turbo in place? the carbed block will swap fine with no issues at all, no intake, no exhaust, no ECU, no issues. you'd just need new head gaskets. install the turbo heads to the carbed block.

here's the part in question zoomed in. there's a dropping resistor here and i can't make out the picture too well as i zoomed in on his larger pic. but ther'es also something else here....waste gate controller. but i have a non turbo EA82 in it, so what do i do with this thing? plug it in or not? will it affect starting/running? i don't have any FSM with turbo stuff in it.

yes, the silver box bolted to the strut tower. i have two parts there - the dropping resistor which is fine and all plugged in (tested resistance and all, all good). the other thing connected to it, i believe is the waste gate controller, but i can't verify it and it's hard to see in the picture of the entire engine bay. it has two vacuum lines and two other lines...i guess that go to the turbo, but i don't remember pulling it off. i don't have it plugged in. do i need it for a non-turbo engine? do the lines need to be hooked up to anything? i'll play with it when i get home i suppose. what does it do? can it affect starting/running?

i just swapped in an XT MPFI into an XT Turbo. having issues - did you ever get pictures of this setup? what did you do with the waste gate controller...that thing bolted to the droping resistor on the passengers side strut tower behind the air box? it has two vaccuum line connections and two other fittings that i guess are turbo related. i have no idea what this thing is and if it will effect starting, but mine won't start and this aint hooked up! curious what you did with yours.

i'm going to check out this waste gate nonsense and check for fuel at the injectors. i won't have access again until monday.

hey, welcome to the board from maryland. when your timing belt service is ready, email me. and hey! i'll pour fuel cleaner in your tank for only $50, and no tax!!!!!

some dealers gouge you..this is why i hate dealers....they are making money off of you and offer you nothing. my cousin has an outback and gets it all dealer maintained. CRAZY....every single time she goes in it's about a $200 bill at least..sometimes closer to a grand, i can show them to you. it's insane what all they've charged her for...thousands of dollars extra on a 2002 wagon. 90,000 miles and she's had so much stuff done to that car you'd think it's a POS if you looked at the stack. then you see it's all unecessary when you look at the bills. they quoted her $699 for timing belt change, i did it for cost of parts. fuel cleaner - no way. at 63,000 that's crazy talk. if you want to pay them $109 to add $4 worth of fluid that isn't necessary and you can do yourself, then it certainly won't hurt your car. 105,000 mile timing belt for you. have fun at the dealer, as for me they can kiss my backside.

no dressing needed on any subaru gasket. water pump gasket could use some of that tack sealant and that's all you should need. thermostats too...but i think you will find an o-ring on your thermostat so nothing needed there.

i knew that was you bouncing around between forums. you could have someone mail you parts you need. there are top hats, bushings and stuff up there, i'd try to get someone to mail you everything.

if money is an issue, i'd leave the projects on the back burner. no point in creating possible problems and costs that aren't necessary. get on top of things then start playing. i'd vote for you to keep two running vehicles as is for now. sorry to sound like your mom. you could get a swap done in the weekend if you don't run into issues. have all the stuff out of the donor car and ready to go before you pull the one on your daily driver.