idosubaru

i'd do it, but wrong coast. even if you take it to a mechanic you should be able to have it done for $1,000 or less. first - are you sure the clutch is bad? maybe it just needs a clutch cable adjustment. when you drove it, did the clutch slip at all? if it sat awhile and wasn't driven much it might be fine with some adjustment and driving. next - the oil pan may be wet but that doesn't mean it needs replacement, i doubt it's leaking severe enough to warrant replacement. for that matter, on these motors most other small drips accumulate on the oil pan, so replacing it might not do anything. i'd avoid replacing this at the moment. that being said - if the engine has to come out for a new clutch then oil pan gasket replacement is easy with the motor out. a leaking radiator needs to be addressed immediately but they can be had for $100. are you sure it's the radiator and not the hoses or clamps? a leak needs to be addressed immediately no matter what. i'd have the timing belts, water pump, cam seals and crank seal replaced and the oil pump resealed. i just did all of this last week on the same motor you have in this car. parts are cheap, labor is expensive. but $500 or less should be the going rate for the parts and work. add $200 for new radiator, hoses and thermostat and this job should come in well under $1,000. if it needs a clutch then you're pushing the $2,000 mark and his quote is pretty close if he's including new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and PCV valve like he should. unfortunately if you did this all yourself it would run much less.

double post dang it.

bump - edit title - hoping for a picture of these fittings?

at those prices i'd buy a used hub and have a shop install it. used hubs are $35. wheel bearings don't typically blow up or fail, you'll have some time to fix it when you first start hearing the noise. order a used hub, have it installed and you're done for $100. i'm sorry you've had bad experience with subaru dealerships. other companies are little different though. they are all businesses and have profit margins as a main objective. subaru has over and over paid for peoples head gasket repairs after warranty and gone out of their way for people in many other areas. they have also left people hang dry. if you look at the big picture you won't see a huge difference between manufacturers. to assume one instance shows the tendency of a company falsley narrows down your options, makes you physically and emotionally vulnerable to chance and leaves you less happy in the long run. anytime you rely on dealerships and mechanics that you don't know very well you're really in a bad situation. i work on cars all the time for friends and family, i have plenty of horror stories about honda, Ford, toyota and subaru. if i used similar logic i wouldn't have a car manufacturer left to buy from.

i just see you're asking specifically about how to do the oil pump. it is easy to do, the hard part is removing the timing belt to get to it. if you've never done a timing belt before then you might not do this job. the timing belt isn't all that hard though. crank pulley is typically tight and hard to remove and the cam sprocket bolts are very tricky to get off too. remove valve covers and use a wrench on the cam to hold it in place while removing the cam bolt so the cam doesn't just spin. your engine is non-interference so no worries on damaging anything if you line up the timing belt wrong when reinstalling.

is this an EA82 or an EJ18? the oil pump reseal is straight forward, involves new seals and o-rings. unbolt the oil pump, replace the seals/gasket and bolt it back on with some appropriately placed sealant (i recommend anaerobic). i think yours is an EJ18 but i'm not sure, some early 90's subaru's have EA82. totally different oil pumps. can you post a picture of the spring? those of us that have torn these motors apart might be able to pinpoint it if we see it. oil pump is the only likely candidate i can think of. i can't recall the EJ18 having a spring in the oil pump, but i've never looked closely. i think you're already on the right track though, this is an oil seal spring. if it is a spring from a seal the seal would still be in place and might not necessarily leak all that much. it should be a cam seal, rear main seal or front crank seal. you have to pull the timing belts to replace the cam seals and crank seal. good time to replace all three and reseal the oil pump...and water pump and new timing belt too depending how old they are. any way, the crank and cam seals are all fairly accessible with the timing belt off. just hope it's not the rear main seal, i think chances are good that it won't be. good luck and have fun. there's some good EJ information on the board here about timing belts, oil pump work if you've never done it before. endwrench.com, subaru's site is helpful as well. good luck and have fun, gary maryland

tighten the belt, that's about all i can give you. don't know details off the top of my head.

i tried making it work. i can't see how to make the sharp cuts from the drivers side PCV fitting thingy to the intake. not much room, was wondering how the stock set-up does it so i don't have 3 feet of hoses to make it work. also - can anyone clarify if there is an adapter between the smaller AAV hose and the larger diameter of the intake port? wondering how that reduction happens in stock form?

awesome miles. that intake only has 2 hoses connecting to the intake. mine has 3 openings on the intake and three available things to attach. p/s valve vent cover d/s valve vent that goes to the F-shaped hard plastic fitting - one of those is not connected to anything and the AAV - auxiliary air valve. so i guess my real question is what kind of adapters/fittings are used? i have 3 intake opening and 3 available so that all lines up - but two of them appear to need some interesting shaped fittings to reach and the AAV hose is smaller than PCV so there must be some kind of adapter that i don't have? as soon as i get this intake fixed up i'm ready to crank the motor, thanks! maybe i should post the picture...

double post

TROGDOR, ever get pic's of this setup - i'd like to see the intake routing and possibly the vaccuum lines. i got the motor in and can't figure out the intake PCV routing. all i have is an NA EA82 inatke tube (not sure what it's from), but no accessories to go with it (like associated bits and hoses). and - i have no idea what to do with the vacuum lines.

any shop should be able to do wheel bearings. get a price quote from them. this is a fairly standard job on any vehicle, it's not uncommon for bearings to be replaced on any type vehicle so any shop would be familiar with it. on some subaru's (all older AWD EA82 models) the rears are actually much more difficult as they are stamped in and require a goofy tool or some meticulous use of a punch. not sure if the newer EJ models are the same. another option is buying the bearings yourself and calling around to local machine shops and take them your hub and bearings and have them do it for $50-$75. this is what i do. they charge $50 a hub to install new bearings that i supply. another option is installing a used hub. i have subaru's with 200,000+ miles on the original hubs and bearings so i would consider this a decent option to save a few hundred dollars. a used hub can be found for under $50. buy hub, have a shop install it if you can't do it yourself.

installed the XT motor in my XT Turbo (so now it's a non-turbo). i can't figure out anyway to get the PCV hoses routed right for the intake. can anyone post a picture of the XT PCV hose set up? particularly where the two hoses fit into the intake by the throttle body. if anyone is willing to do that, a picture of the vaccuum hoses will be needed at some point as well. i see two vaccum ports on top the intake manifold, bother are plugged with square bolts. not sure if they are used or not.

no doubt, a newbie scouring for info. awesome!

$700 for a clutch is about normal. but it can vary alot depending on who you know, dealer, city, rural areas....that's the variance. first - have it adjusted if at all possible. i'm not sure if it's clutch or hydraulic either, but i just pulled a motor on the exact same car, a 1997 OBS and i thought for sure it's just cable driven, no hydraulic cylinder involved. practice shifting without using the clutch, works fine in the older subaru's. obviously does you no good from a stop. it's tricky and seems hard at first, but once you figure it out and learn how to match the rpm's just right it's a breeze and kind of funny. won't help you much in city driving, but i do it all the time on my mostly highway trip to work. eventually the car can lock up and leave you stranded if it wears out too bad. baby the clutch and it may last awhile, although smelling it doesn't sound good.

if it doesn't get any oil supply then it is almost certainly grease. the distributor gear does sit down in the cam and is lubricated by oil, so if it gets oil routed from there some how then maybe it's open and oil lubricated? you edited your post after i replied, no matter though. thanks for the link and bearing number/size information, i can use this for other items for sure. i've tried to look up bearings before.

excellent holmes, found it: 6661K101 Precision-Plus Steel Ball Bearing -- ABEC-1 Double Sealed Bearing No. 6200 for 10 mm Shaft Dia In stock at $7.97 Each thanks!

how about a tune up? at that low mileage the engine long block (case, heads,cam) should not have any issues. you should have great compression and near new performance ben. agree on the seafoam in the gas tank comment, get a couple cans of injector cleaner if you'd like. try new: plugs, wires, air filter, PCV valve, fuel filter, O2 sensor.... those are replacement items that can affect performance to varying degrees. normally not much, but more likely than internal engine issues on a low mileage block.

they carry ABEC bearings, how did you cross reference the part you needed? i like their inventory, now to cross reference which bearings are the same as our NTN bearings. great info.

everything looks normal in the engine bay? check for spark, the heat could have fried the ignition coil. check cap and rotor. check the fusible links under the hood (close the battery on most subaru's) the heat could have caused something to fail.

awesome, nice find and thanks for the info! thought it would be a bit lower priced, but for being the only source i've ever seen i can't complain. $67.

advanced auto parts, autozone and other parts stores will read your codes for free. right down the exact code and details it spits out. sometimes the guy might say "oh it's a vacuum line or gas cap". while he might be right, better to write down the exact code then have him tell you the wrong thing to replace and then you're left scratching your head.

i'm technically in MD but 20 minutes south of gettysburg so i live only a few minutes from PA, in "the south". and baltimore guy, there are a few maryland members but not many active ones. i have a blue 1997 OBS just like you. actually three but one's a 98.

yeah that sucks. if they misinformed you, talk to the manager and maybe they'll let you have the rear diff for free? that will fix the issue and save you $60.

my XT6 with 220,000 miles always did this as well. didn't do it when i got the car at 105,000, but started some time after that. i know for a fact the cooling system was always full and everything worked fine. interesting.