idosubaru

copy that. the gearing within the transmission is to be paid more attention to for milage considerations. so he should be concerned about swapping his 5th gear for the best mileage and leave the rest as is if he wanted to get that far into the trans. or look for a trans with the best 5th gear ratio for mileage.

get a can of starting fluid or whatever people recommend and use the long piece that comes with the can, looks like a thin straw. use that to direct the spray while the engine is running. when it hits the leak the engine will rev and sputter. i saw a guy at the shop i take my stuff to get inspected with the exact same car and issue. pretty sure it was an intake manifold gasket leak. but each instance can be something different. just get a can, start spraying and ask if you have any questions. won't learn until you try it. it's really simple, point and push the button.

there's a substantial difference in the XT6...sort of. XT6 automatic AWD 3.7 final drive - 28.7mpg max highway mileage XT6 manual AWD 3.9 final drive - 27 mpg max highway mileage note the auto getting higher mileage than the manual, due to the better gearing for highway cruising. *edit* as dxrflyboy mentions below this is due to overall gearing in the trans and final drive (small percentage). i've owned quite a few of these and done lots of highway driving. the automatic runs about 3,000 rpm's at the same speed the manual is running 4,000 rpms. worth it for the noise factor as well. cruising at 4,000 rpms is loud. lots of power if needed, but noisey.

there's a chance, but it's a small one. you can also leak coolant through the intake manifold gaskets. they have water jackets running very close to the intake runners. these can leak. this would be your best hope for a cheap and easy fix. does the car continue to bubble through the radiator after the engine is turned off? can you see any coolant in the cylinders if you pull a spark plug? on an EA82T it's hard to not think it's head gasket. how many miles before it needs coolant added. does it get hotter than a normal EA82T (even if it doesn't overheat). i would guess it's going to get worse. from what i've seen external leaks tend to stay about the same and dont' get worse after even 50,000 miles or more of driving. internal leaks not so lucky. speaking of very small leaks, if it is head gasket related and you drive the car for awhile with a small leak it can damage the heads. it will gradually wear into the head wherever the leak is, but this takes substantial mileage and driving like this on an internal leak. i don't know why, i suppose it's some kind of localized heating at the very point of the leak. no matter the reason, it does happen as i've seen it. external leaks that i've seen wont' do anything, but internal leaks will damage the head as i mentioned earlier. it can be repaired though.

you say the alternator broke? how, what happened? do you mean the drive belt that runs the alternator? you say it "wrapped around the cam belt", what does that mean? did it wrap around and do any damage or just wrap around? you didn't mention that the cam belt was affected in any way. but the crank sensor is driven by the cam belt, so need to know exactly what happened to the belts. are the timing belts timed and working properly? make sure it's plugged in. easiest test would be to swap another distributor in. there's a recent thread about buying the crank angle sensor. search for distributor rebuild or something like that. the crank angel sensor in the distributor is sold for $67 i believe, link to the place it posted in the thread.

those are some sick headers man, awesome work yet again. we'll need a new forum soon "Boostedballs sick work Forum"

i've put different size tires on subaru's. if you currently run 205 70 then 215 70 shouldn't be an issue. one size in either direction will fit on the rim. you can use on-line tire size calculators to figure out what ratio is best to keep overall diameter and speedometer in synch, but the difference will be minimal for the little change you're looking for. be advised too that different brands/model of tire can look much "wider" than others regardless of the official "size". wider is worse in the snow.

i'd get a look at the bolts, on the ones i've done the bolts are rusted terribly and it's easier to install new bolts than try to reuse the old ones. other than that it's super easy, just annoying working from under the car. unbolt two bolts, clean up, install new gasket and two bolts with nuts and you're done.

antietam automotive in maryland area. i found it hard to locate suppliers as well, they should have that info more available. i have a set at home and a set of Fel-Pro or OEM subaru, i'll take pic's if i remember.

copy that, i thought all impreza's were EJ but get confused on which had the EA in the early 90's. thanks for the clarification.

there are local suppliers. the local guys knocked off $70 from their price to match on-line prices for head sets. doubt they have older subaru stuff in stock, so in that sense it's mail order no matter what.

the oil sump hangs quite low into the oil pan. i would think for gains worth the effort you'd need to shorten the oil sump as well. the baffles are quite low in the pan, so you could cut off a good deal "up top" relatively easily. what to do after that in terms of oil capacity i can't say.

corteco

your location says international so i can't tell where you live. each market is different. around where i live i would not get that vehicle. maybe in other areas you have fewer options and can only take what you can get/find. if you plan for the head gasket repair - can fix it yourself, have the $1,100 available for someone else to do it, have a spare motor or are willing to swap in a 2.2 if/when they fail then it becomes a better option. in which case you can usually just find a 2.5 subaru for $500-$1000 with a bad gasket to begin with and save yourself $2,000, then do the work. unless the head gasket was replaced i wouldn't buy a 2.5 for that much even with half that mileage. i wouldn't believe the seller unless they can absolutely prove the head gasket was replaced. note comment by previous poster, be very careful. it's not that all 2.5's are bad. but think about it....which 2.5's are most likely to be dumped by their owners....the ones that run great or the ones that are starting to show signs of failure?

i'd do it, but wrong coast. even if you take it to a mechanic you should be able to have it done for $1,000 or less. first - are you sure the clutch is bad? maybe it just needs a clutch cable adjustment. when you drove it, did the clutch slip at all? if it sat awhile and wasn't driven much it might be fine with some adjustment and driving. next - the oil pan may be wet but that doesn't mean it needs replacement, i doubt it's leaking severe enough to warrant replacement. for that matter, on these motors most other small drips accumulate on the oil pan, so replacing it might not do anything. i'd avoid replacing this at the moment. that being said - if the engine has to come out for a new clutch then oil pan gasket replacement is easy with the motor out. a leaking radiator needs to be addressed immediately but they can be had for $100. are you sure it's the radiator and not the hoses or clamps? a leak needs to be addressed immediately no matter what. i'd have the timing belts, water pump, cam seals and crank seal replaced and the oil pump resealed. i just did all of this last week on the same motor you have in this car. parts are cheap, labor is expensive. but $500 or less should be the going rate for the parts and work. add $200 for new radiator, hoses and thermostat and this job should come in well under $1,000. if it needs a clutch then you're pushing the $2,000 mark and his quote is pretty close if he's including new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and PCV valve like he should. unfortunately if you did this all yourself it would run much less.

double post dang it.

bump - edit title - hoping for a picture of these fittings?

at those prices i'd buy a used hub and have a shop install it. used hubs are $35. wheel bearings don't typically blow up or fail, you'll have some time to fix it when you first start hearing the noise. order a used hub, have it installed and you're done for $100. i'm sorry you've had bad experience with subaru dealerships. other companies are little different though. they are all businesses and have profit margins as a main objective. subaru has over and over paid for peoples head gasket repairs after warranty and gone out of their way for people in many other areas. they have also left people hang dry. if you look at the big picture you won't see a huge difference between manufacturers. to assume one instance shows the tendency of a company falsley narrows down your options, makes you physically and emotionally vulnerable to chance and leaves you less happy in the long run. anytime you rely on dealerships and mechanics that you don't know very well you're really in a bad situation. i work on cars all the time for friends and family, i have plenty of horror stories about honda, Ford, toyota and subaru. if i used similar logic i wouldn't have a car manufacturer left to buy from.

i just see you're asking specifically about how to do the oil pump. it is easy to do, the hard part is removing the timing belt to get to it. if you've never done a timing belt before then you might not do this job. the timing belt isn't all that hard though. crank pulley is typically tight and hard to remove and the cam sprocket bolts are very tricky to get off too. remove valve covers and use a wrench on the cam to hold it in place while removing the cam bolt so the cam doesn't just spin. your engine is non-interference so no worries on damaging anything if you line up the timing belt wrong when reinstalling.

is this an EA82 or an EJ18? the oil pump reseal is straight forward, involves new seals and o-rings. unbolt the oil pump, replace the seals/gasket and bolt it back on with some appropriately placed sealant (i recommend anaerobic). i think yours is an EJ18 but i'm not sure, some early 90's subaru's have EA82. totally different oil pumps. can you post a picture of the spring? those of us that have torn these motors apart might be able to pinpoint it if we see it. oil pump is the only likely candidate i can think of. i can't recall the EJ18 having a spring in the oil pump, but i've never looked closely. i think you're already on the right track though, this is an oil seal spring. if it is a spring from a seal the seal would still be in place and might not necessarily leak all that much. it should be a cam seal, rear main seal or front crank seal. you have to pull the timing belts to replace the cam seals and crank seal. good time to replace all three and reseal the oil pump...and water pump and new timing belt too depending how old they are. any way, the crank and cam seals are all fairly accessible with the timing belt off. just hope it's not the rear main seal, i think chances are good that it won't be. good luck and have fun. there's some good EJ information on the board here about timing belts, oil pump work if you've never done it before. endwrench.com, subaru's site is helpful as well. good luck and have fun, gary maryland

tighten the belt, that's about all i can give you. don't know details off the top of my head.

i tried making it work. i can't see how to make the sharp cuts from the drivers side PCV fitting thingy to the intake. not much room, was wondering how the stock set-up does it so i don't have 3 feet of hoses to make it work. also - can anyone clarify if there is an adapter between the smaller AAV hose and the larger diameter of the intake port? wondering how that reduction happens in stock form?

awesome miles. that intake only has 2 hoses connecting to the intake. mine has 3 openings on the intake and three available things to attach. p/s valve vent cover d/s valve vent that goes to the F-shaped hard plastic fitting - one of those is not connected to anything and the AAV - auxiliary air valve. so i guess my real question is what kind of adapters/fittings are used? i have 3 intake opening and 3 available so that all lines up - but two of them appear to need some interesting shaped fittings to reach and the AAV hose is smaller than PCV so there must be some kind of adapter that i don't have? as soon as i get this intake fixed up i'm ready to crank the motor, thanks! maybe i should post the picture...

double post

TROGDOR, ever get pic's of this setup - i'd like to see the intake routing and possibly the vaccuum lines. i got the motor in and can't figure out the intake PCV routing. all i have is an NA EA82 inatke tube (not sure what it's from), but no accessories to go with it (like associated bits and hoses). and - i have no idea what to do with the vacuum lines.