idosubaru

the parts stores i go to won't have a "direct match" and won't be able to look up what studs you need. but if you take in an old stud, they will have one that is nearly and identical match. the ones i always buy are nearly the same, but only work if installed one way. they have a small midsection where there are no threads, so you have to install the stud such that the "unthreaded" portion is buried in the heads/header so that you can torque the nut all the way to the head. in other words, install the "short" threaded side up into the head. that's alot of words, but it's really simple. just take in an old one to match up what you need.

head gasket, your situation isn't as weird as you think. there are numerous threads about "undetectable" overheating....which always ends up being head gaskets on these motors....okay, almost always! you can pick up a 2.2 liter motor for a couple hundred and swap it in, it's nearly a direct swap and 2.2 motors are easy to find. and they don't have the head gasket issues the 2.5 has. if you choose to fix it, the newer head gasket is an updated version and solves the leaky head gasket issues assuming the block isn't toasted. many have successfully replaced the head gaskets in 2.5's.

how well do you trust the mechanic/dealer that's doing the work? they can often be traced to lying, misdiagnosis, saying something was fixed when it wasn't....etc. the more jobs the mechanics get to the more money they make, don't expect quality or accuracy when that's the driving factor. not saying that's the case, but that is possible anywhere not just subaru. haven't seen many brake caliper failures so i wouldn't consider this normal.

the original belts were 60,000 mile change interval. if you buy a newer belt it has a different part number, like the last letter or something, very close, but it's an "updated" version, and has a change interval of 105,000. there is debate over whether the belt is really any different or they just used the same california specification belt across all models....that is unknown but it is true that there are two part numbers and two different change intervals. a good parts guy can look up both part numbers if you're interested. be sure you're getting a newer version belt and not "new old stock" which could be the older 60,000 mile belt.

i don't know your area. but i've seen 3 2.5's in the past month (talking to a lady now with a fantastic 99 legacy) all under $1000 with blown head gaskets. $500, $750 and $900.

Six cylinder Subaru's: 1988-1991 Subaru XT6 145 hp 1992-1997 Subaru SVX 230 hp Not sure which models come with the newer 6 cylinder engines. Haven't heard of anyone swapping in the newer 6 cylinder motors. The SVX and XT6 engines have been put in various other things...though most of the examples i can think of are non-subaru. but some have the XT6 engine in their 4 cylinder subaru's. you can swap anything you want, depends on time and money and how good you are. if the newer gen's are like the old, then it's probably not a ton of custom work to swap in a 6 cylinder. probably bolts right up to 4 cyilnder transmissions. probably easier and much cheaper to turbo an existing 4 for more power though.

replace the tie rod ends and also the steering rack bushings. both are safety items for sure and i plan on getting new tie rod ends as well for a same reason. guy at work had a tie rod break on him, very unsafe predicament for sure. never seen it happen in a subaru though. if the steering is "sloppy" at all, new bushings will fix that. i just did it last night on a subaru. required removing four 14mm bolts to replace the steering rack bushings, very easy to do. bad bushing will make the steering feel "sloppy" by drifting and "taking too long" to adjust to the input at the steering wheel. like you turn left and it takes a second or two before it goes that way. or while driving straight it could pull left or right a little. that is a sign of bad bushings, not the steering rack. though an unscrupulous mechanic could surely make a lot of money by mis-diagnosing that as a bad rack. the bushings just wrap around the steering rack, very simple. when they are old and warn, their is too much play between the rack and the two mounting brackets which causes the drift and issues mentioned earlier. i picked up high performance impreza bushings made out of some super stellar moon cheese material...i don't know, they are supposed to be stiffer and feel better so i got 'em! they fit perfectly on an older generation XT Turbo.

might be as simple as frozen internals. any reason why water may have gotten down in there recently? if so, pull it in the sunlight for awhile. or blast the heat inside. i don't think the interior panel will come off with the door closed, though it may. the hand up will be the edges, i believe most are lipped and seal around the body when the door is shut. but give it a try, they come off easy enough to make it worth a shot. otherwise there are plastic clips and gadgets in there, not sure which could fail. someone that's had this happen before will hopefully speak up.

the subaru XT6 (ER27) has been mounted in porshce 911's though not with a subaru transmission so i guess that does you no good. eric tischer is the guys name if you want to look him up on the internet, i've spoke with him in the past. he has pictures of his set up, rear engine.

i didn't look into it thoroughly so it is very possible that the wires were the same if they were'nt divided the same between the two connectors. you're information is more thorough than mine if you went into it that far.

completed installing the XT6 steering rack into my XT Turbo. This is very easy and i am glad not to have a belt driven power steering pump anymore. I used: XT6 Steering rack. New Impreza Steering Bushings. The original XT Turbo tie rod ends (i'll upgrade to XT6 when i do the 5 lug swap) The original XT Turbo Lines with fittings that screw into the steering rack. The XT6 power steering lines from the pump (these attach to the XT Turbo lines mentioned one line above this) All went well, very easy to do (i had the motor out though) and everything bolts right up. Look forward to giving it a spin once i drop this JDM motor back in it. Then the computer/wiring fun stuff begins!

pre-2000 2.5 liter engines are more of a risk than any other subaru motor. that doesn't mean anything happens at any time. it could last a week...the person might be selling it because it's already starting to show symptoms (which do not show themselves with normal testing), or it could never give you issues. the "new" headgasket design fixes the problem, so if a head gasket is replaced or the motor is newer than 2000 then you're golden.

i don't know that the EA82 can see any benefits from an oil cooler. i think i asked in one of the threads awhile ago and was told it is essentially pointless to put it on the non turbo EA82. the EA82T heats the oil up substantially more due to the turbo and in that case it could be very beneficial.

that's odd, i saw no similarities between the two. wire colors appeared to be completely different, maybe i need to look again. it's all done now so hopefully it'll run. gary

i'll find out if it works shortly. funny thing, i'm almost positive the EA82 JDM and EA82T US motor both had a 4 plug TPS. there is definitely one plug and solenoid looking device under the intake that is not on the EA82 JDM motor that is on the EA82T. i'm assuming it's a solenoid related to the EGR. or it could be a solenoid for the transmission since the JDM was likely a FWD. not sure if any trans solenoids are on the engine though, i'm used to them being mounted in the engine bay. other than that one plug, everything else plugged right in perfectly.

dang it, i'm dying to do this on my XT6 and XT. once i get them running i will, i already have impreza holders as well. nice job, definitely annoying not having anything.

sweet, nice. i'd like to do this to the XT Turbo once it's up and running. is this set-up reliable? or constant maintenance?

not a big deal. the CV boot at the end of the axle is just rubber, they break all the time. they only last so long and are replaced on nearly any subaru at some point. it's not a big deal. they run about $80 each, plus labor to install. be sure to replace with Subaru OEM axles, rebuilt axles are risky. very doubtful your wheel bearings are bad if it's just broken cv boots and axles clicking. you could drive this thing for thousands of miles without replacing them and you'd be fine. i've put 50,000 miles on a broken cv boot (bad axle) before with no issue. even when they start clicking it's not a big deal if you can tolerate the noise.

dylan, are you installing MS on your EA82T? you're going to have MS and EDIS? have you started yet?

thanks guys! i ended up being able to keep almost all of the lower mileage and nicer condition JDM intake stuff. strip the turbo wiring harness off the XT Turbo EA82T intake manifold and installed it on the JDM intake. this was fairly easy and everything worked out fine. i spliced in the JDM terminals/connectors though as they and their rubber boot covers were in much better condition. there is ONE "part" that is missing on the JDM. there is a solenoid just behind the thermostat housing and towards the center of the intake manifold, had to see as it's tucked way under there. i left it disconnected for now. i'm not sure what it's for but it reminds me of solenoids i've seen for locking the transmission center diff? anyone know what this is? since this was the only electrical connection left no used i assume it might be EGR related? but i can't imagine that having a solenoid? one weird side note that has nothing to do with anything. of the two connectors on the JDM motor, one was identical to the XT Turbo motor, the round one. the JDM did not have a square connector like the XT Turbo. the round ones that were identical had the same number of pins and the exact same connector so i assumed those were a dead match. i went to verify this. the wires were all different colors. so then i used a multi-meter to test continuity through various paths. the pins were not even close to the same. i test FI, oil sender, coolant temp, and TPS paths and they didn't match up at all eventhough the connector was the same. but it didn't really matter it was much easier to swap the entire harness then to try and only swap "one" connector or "half" of the harness anyway. the JDM harness connectors looked identical to my RX Turbo (non spider) wiring harness, but i didn't compare anything. two round connectors, one white and one black.

the 4EAT doesn't have a center diff. the clutch packs serve a similar function. 90/10 normal and 60/40 at most is the break down i've seen. amen, check out endwrench.com or whatever it is, it's Subaru's official documentation website or whatever you want to call it. excellent information on the details and workings of the 4EAT. for snow/rain and stuff it depends. in general the manual trans are better. the 4EAT doesn't add any traction until it detects slip, well who wants to wait until then to gain traction? that being said the 4EAT is nearly as good if not better than the manual transmission if you install a switch to control the clutch lock up. when it's snowing, you "lock" it and have your front and rear wheels "locked" together. in the models that offer 5 speeds without any differential lock, the 4EAT with this switch installed would be better in snow and off road driving.

there was just a post about this in the past month, i'd do a search and read through that thread. i can't recall the details but i think someone was quoted in the $500 range to replace plugs. not a ton of information/experience yet on the 6 cylinders. most are still under warranty and they're still relatively new so alot of us that work on subaru's haven't seen them yet.

i'm confused on the severity and talk of rebuilding, this is a really simple fix. this happens all the time on these motors. the exhaust studs strip out very easily. unless i'm missing something, it is hard to see anything with all that oil and stuff everywhere. the exhaust is leaking out, blowing on the timing belt covers. they melt when they get hot, just plastic. helicoil the threads and you're done in a hour. without doing any work but removing the exhaust header and putting it back on. the only annoying part is working from under the car. wear goggles so the aluminum, oil and rust doesn't get in your eyes.

My JDM motor has a different engine connector. JDM Motor - 88+ EA82 non turbo it's going in my 1987.5 XT Turbo. There are two connectors- one is identical to my USDM motor, the other is different. can i just splice the connector that's different? i plan on tracing the wiring either with a meter and/or the FSM wiring diagram. hopefully i can get it to work. My USDM engine is a Turbo and has more junk on it and it's dirty and isn't in as good condition as the JDM. i'd rather keep the JDM intake on there. the turbo motor has that drives side exhaust port tube that routes up to the intake with that big thing on it...don't know what it is but the JDM motor doesn't have it and i don't want it on there. less stuff is better. the JDM motor doesn't have the exhaust port tapped out anyway.

district of columbia as in washington DC? i work just north of DC, live in maryland.