idosubaru

what he said is the way to go. a few slaps with a hammer on the head of the bolt may help as well. but liquid wrench or PB Blaster is the way to go for sure.

these guys sell new (rebuilt) units for $130 to $175. i'd go with them: http://jtwebtech.com/roobuilders/ or get a used one for $25 from someone. post in the parts wanted section of this website, someone probably has one lying around. make sure you get the right one, i think there are variations across year, model, etc.

there's pictures of an XT with this same motor (don't know if it's turbo or not) over at http://www.xt6.net somewhere. looks more like a backyard swap than the huge project listed earlier.

if the plugs match i believe it should work but i have no experience with that swap. i would be surprised if the plugs matched but are not compatible.

yes possible. i posted links to http://www.xt6.net where someone has already done this to an XT6. i posted the links in another thread here on usmb.net. it is some work, but doesn't seem too terrible. use the search function and you should get some good information, enough people have done it.

i wouldn't worry about that small idle difference until after you complete the tune up. a basic tune up may help. while you're doing the tune up keep an eye on the air hoses, vacuum lines and such. introduced air (at cracks and such) will play with the idle.

i thought the title of this thread was someone getting their first subaru XT.

i know the earlier versions have a subtle shifting issue between 2nd and 3rd that's normal, they all do it. 2nd to 3rd kind of takes awhile, that's the best way i can describe it. hard to put in words, it's "soft" so to speak and takes longer than it should. i always disconnect the shift resistor on the passenger side strut tower (could be located differently depending on model) to help it shift a little firmer. the trans shifts all around better that way, a little harder than most are used to but i say it's better. still has the same lag or whatever you want to call it, but it's better. if it's that, then it's normal for the 4EAT. it's bad enough that someone on this board had the transmission valve bodies modified to try and alleviate it and it STILL did it, better but was still there. if it's something else then pardon my rambling.

no problem. definitely good news. i should have it installed by saturday and car running by the end of the weekend. pulled the motor this week and should have another going in it this weekend. i'll post results/details.

shows how good the subaru guys are, he goes to them for answers!

3.3 liter, i don't know anything about corvairs. but it's an all custom job, so i don't think it matters. get the engine, engine cross member, wiring and ECU and go to town on it.

the green stuff doesn't look to promising but hard to tell where it's coming from. be sure you're not running low on oil or coolant. leaking isn't that big of a deal usually. the only real issue is running out or low. watch the TEMP gauge and make sure it doesn't creep up and make sure you don't run out of oil. doubtful you're leaking enough oil to run out. but check level. i'd guess your oil pump seals should be replaced for the oil leak. i think i'd try to clean everything up really good, replace the radiator hose, thermostat and check if it leaks after that. are you sure someone didn't spill antifreeze recently on the motor and that's just runoff? the coolant leak is the most concern unless you're really loosing significant amounts of oil. oil leaks typically don't blow up into catastrophic fluid loss, they can but coolant leaks are more likely to do that. keep it simple - replace the Thermostat and radiator hose and clamps first and monitor the leakages.

yes very easy to do. drop in, bolt in.

i wouldn't be surprised if replacing an o-ring and snugging up the fitting would sovle the leak. 50 cents for an oring and bleed the system and you're golden.

can you post a picture of where it's leaking and someone may be able to help you. sometimes leaks are very simple fixes....a fitting, connection or o-ring and you're done in 30 minutes...

must turn the caliper piston in, not push it. there's a $3 tool at any autoparts store, just a little block with nobs on each side. or there's a better tool at harborfreight.com for $40 that was on sale for $20 a few weeks ago. it will turn, hold in place and push the caliper back in easier than the socket tool. if you're desperate you can get it to work with pliers/needle nose but it'll take awhile.

I removed the EA82 steering pump and associated lines. The line fittings are identical, so after removing the pumps the only additional work needed is to swap the lines from the pumps to the bracket at the passengers side of the motor mount. Since the XT6 power steering pump requires the special "liquid gold" steering fluid i'm going to be swapping an XT6 steering rack. i'm ordering new impreza steering rack bushings for it. I imagine you could drain the EA82 steering rack and run the special fluid in it, but while i'm this far i want new steering rack bushings anyway, so the rack almost has to come out anyway. might as well throw an XT6 rack in there. I'll have the XT6 Pump, XT6 Steering Rack, New Impreza Steering rack bushings XT6 steering lines. We'll see how the electronics part of the swap goes, the power controller and computer for the P/S system.

you definitely do not have to. but you can. personal preference. i'd say depends on tools, what you're doing, etc. i pulled an EA82T yesterday, it's not that bad but i can have a lot done to the motor by the time it takes to pull it out. some people like working on the motor out of the car, and that is understandable. it is easier to work on out of the car. but the motors are so small and easy to work on that it is quicker to do it in the car. no doubt everything is easier with the engine out, i won't deny that. only trick to doing it in the car is having high quality, thick grease to hold the rocker arms in place while reinstalling the cams. maybe you can do one head with the engine in the car.....then pull the motor and do the other head. see which way you like best! ha ha....

i'm not ABS expert as mine hasn't posed and problems yet, but pretty sure you should be able to replace the part and do basic brake bleeding. agree that all that explanation was more jargon than anything. replace and bleed. someone offered the part for $75, install and bleed and this job should be less than $300 from an honest person in my oppinion.

doubt you need to tighten your crank pulley. if it's loose it'll come all the way off in no time. crank pulley is either on tight or will spin off in a matter of seconds when driving . no in between really. but the bellhousing access hole is under the intake hose. look right where the engine and transmission housing meet on top and you'll see the rubber plug. sometimes the rubber plug is missing and you'll see just the hole.

10w30 is fine, no reason to go heavier.

i agree, the EA82 is so easy to work on with the engine in the car that unless i was replacing the clutch i would do the head gaskets and everything else with the motor in the car. by the time you pull the engine out, i could probably already have the timing belts, cams and heads off. if you decide to pull the motor, you can unbolt the intake manifold and hold it up and out of the way and just pull the long block out without disconnecting the engine wiring harness, hoses and throttle cables. the A/C and power steering can both swing out of the way (p/s to the left and a/c to the right) without disconnecting anything. if you had to unbolt the lines for the a/c you could bolt it back on and recharge it yourself. not ideal but it does work, i've done it for friends that are too cheap or lazy to do it right. you can also buy a vacuum puller from harbor freight for 10 bucks and pull a vacuum on it first. but, no need for all of that since you can swing it out of the way. whatever you do, be sure to spray liquid wrench or PB blaster (do not use WD40) on every timing cover bolt, exhaust bolt/nut, and intake bolt, and the radiator and fan bolts if they're rusty. hit all of these a couple of times a few days before the job and you'll make your job easier, these bolts/nuts like to take as much time as the actual job if they're seized. the hardest part of this job is proper clean up. clean up the heads, clean up the block and cleaning the head bolt holes. very important and very time consuming. are the headgaskets bad? 120,000 is low mileage for an EA82 to blow a head gasket. now if it was a turbo i would'nt be as surprised.

compelte tune up would be a great idea for a car sitting that long. sounds like you're on your way. check the turbo for any leaks of the coolant/oil lines.

if it never gets hot there is no need for the fan to come on, the temp will never get hot enough to trigger the sensor.

i don't know anything about new cars because i don't buy them but i don't know that everyone's experience with saturn is as good as yours was. or if every dealer/regional rep would be as responsive. i've seen people on here get their engines replaced and have good response/service but he's not getting the same treatment. experiences aren't necessarily nationwide. i'm impressed at the letters and contact as well, that's craziness.