idosubaru

nice job, busting that O2 sensor out, i recall my trouble with it the first time as well. not familiar with a 2WD loyale, but most soobs i've worked on can be done with an open ended wrench. no need to drop the exhaust down. for some reason exhaust header gaskets are quite robust on subaru's. they last forever. i've pulled off exhausts many times and reused gaskets with no problems. i've replaced bad ones before too, but they are reusable much more so than most gaskets. what kind of highway mileage you getting out of the 2WD trans?

not at the moment, but i'd like to keep it for awhile in case i re-turbo the thing. i have another turbo block and a brand new EA82 block to put the turbo goodies in...so i'd like to hang onto it until i'm confident with the XT project.

sounds okay, but there are much better deals to be had. i don't know your area though. if you need one now, test drive it and check it out. an average or okay deal now is better than finding only terrible deals when you need a car. if you can wait, hold off. in the states if you're willing to travel (fly and drive back) you expand your area and options and can get great deals. i've gotten most (almost all of my daily drivers) from other states. any service records? if not you may want to check into having the tbelts changed, that will be an additional cost.

awesome thanks for that link steve. i appreciate and printed it! what is an "L" series that you refer to? you mentioned you got an engine code after the swap, recall what that was? my donor motor doesn't have the a/c or alt on it, but appears to have the brackets. both being XT models (where yours was an XT to RX swap), maybe the alt and a/c will bolt in place? i'm converting it to XT6 electric power steering so no issue there. it has the crank pulley on it. i don't have the dogbone, i'll have to fabricate something for now. thanks for that heads up, i'll put an order in the parts wanted section. see how the throttle cable goes as well, that should be interesting. that might be my biggest concern at the moment. thanks again steve! here's a pic of the donor motor.

are you sure the valves need adjusted? valve cover gasket replacement would be well under $350. i would not replace the head gaskets now if there is absolutely no sign of failure. they could very well last much longer. but i would check your coolant level frequently and keep a gallon or two of coolant in the car or at least at home. keep an eye out for any amount of coolant loss. another reason i wouldn't replace them is that they don't necessarily BLOW all at once to the point you'll be stranded. annoying, yes and it might take some time letting the car cool off, not driving it while it's hot but you shouldn't get stranded if you keep an eye on the coolant level and temp gauge from time to time. if it does happen down the road, $1,100 is the going rate for head gasket replacement at a dealership as quoted by members on the board here. if you have the $ and plan on keeping the car awhile and want sure reliability then replacement is not a bad idea though (the new head gasket solves the problem and won't leak like the original). if you have the car another 5 years and 100,000 miles that averages out to $30 a month or less. big deal, beats another car payment! personally if the gaskets started to show signs of failure, i'd get a 2.2 liter motor install new timing belt and water pump and be done with it for $500. you'd be a happy subaru owner 150,000 miles later.

miles is right, don't get anxious about the calls to swap your trans. the axle should pop right back in. this same exact question was posted yesterday? weird.

Awesome! thanks guys, sounds good. The car and donor motor are both MPFI and 1987+. Original Car 1987.5 Turbo XT Donor is a complete MPFI XT 87.5 NON turbo one vote for a 2 wires disty that won't match and another vote says they will. guess i'll find out, that has to be resolvable. sounds like the swap should be fairly straight forward. no turbo stuff. i have the NA intake, still looking for an NA exhaust. hope you can snag another, i needed one. didn't have a motor for it at all. i was wondering if anyone here was considering it.

installing a 87.5 spider intake EA82 (nonturbo) MPFI engine in the next couple days. looking to clean it up as much as possible in terms of hoses and lines and such. ASV - do MPFI nonturbo motors have this? is that what that stupid metal fitting is that screws in by the head? it's only on one side, drivers side? i thought THAT was the EGR....XT6's are so much simpler when it comes to vacuum, hoses and lines.

depending on diff custom axles shouldn't be necessary. some nissan and subaru differentials are interchangeable, just have to swap the stub axles for the bolt on nissan stubs. those are interchangeable on the diff side so the axle stays with the vehicles. nissan guys call our (EA series) 3.7 and 3.9 rear diffs R160 and R180, same differentials used in 80's nissans. only the stub axles differ and they are interchangeable. so really you have whatever you want with no axle change. if you want 3.7 or 3.9 get the subaru (or R160/R180 nissan designation of the same box) or the newer soob diffs of higher ratio if you wanted that for some reason. 4.11...4.44...

if anyone mentions removable lines that are MPFI related too, mention that as well as i'm installing an MPFI EA82 within the next few days.

subaru_styles says there's a minor wiring difference, anyone else know what that might be? another member says the NA exhaust should clear the turbo cross member no problem.

these things are finnicky with vaccum leaks, i'd check for that if you're not getting any engine codes. i resealed an EA82 a couple years ago (head gaskets and up) and it wouldn't start. finally got it started (very rough and wouldn't stay running very long) and it actually idled long enough for me to run to the motor and start playing with stuff and i noticed one time while leaning over the motor that it idled fine when i leaned on the oil cap???? i replaced the oil cap rubber seal, which was in the reseal kit i just didn't know what it was. the XT6 doesn't have this and runs fine with the oil cap removed, no effect at all. i'm used to the XT6 so i never had a clue why the EA82 ran so terrible with the oil cap off. also be sure the engine wiring harness plugs are seated all the way. i recall an instance of someone not getting it started and turned out one of the plugs didn't push all the way together, those two large plugs can be very tight. also recall another instance of someone bending a pin in one of the connectors so it didn't make contact. i did an XT6 a couple months ago and it wouldn't start. couldn't figure it out and ignored checking the cap/rotor because they were brand new, just installed and i was still getting spark. removed the cap and saw bits and pieces everywhere? i assume the rotor or cap were defective because they were torn to bits inside. the store gave me new replacements for free and the car started. do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to acc? or at least know for sure you're getting fuel? is the timing waaaaay off? spark plugs on the right cylinders? i'd have a look at timing or just do a compression test, that doesn't take long. compression, spark, gas and it should start.

the more details you can give the better. what happened to the old motor, details on the new and what you did during the swap? if the old motor had any leakage then there could be coolant/oil in the exhaust still blowing out. can take awhile to get it all out. some initial smoke isn't all that odd if you coated the cylinder walls with assembly lube or excessive oil either. engines can run rough on first start. you put 5 quarts of fresh oil in the motor? distributor is lined up correctly? timing belts aren't off by a tooth (or more). check the timing (if you moved the disty). is the gas bad? how long did the car sit during the swap? days, weeks, months? throttle cables could be sticking (high idle). check for spark at all the plugs. oh - edit/add on - everything is compatible for this swap - sensors, right type of MAF or MAP, ECU and Disty....there are minor differences across year and turbo/non-turbo that could have some affect on a swap. in which case knowing what was in it and exactly where the donor motor came from might help. i'm not up on all the differences but others are. good luck, hope to hear good news when i come back in the morning.

i have a few friends that would call you four letter words for being that lucky with your jeep trans.....but i see your explanation.

consensus is to not buy remanne'd axles. they fail at an alarming rate. go with MWE (find them here on this site) or Subaru OEM axles. rebuilds break, i'm a victim talking from experience. about a week and 50 miles on a "new" axle, though not from the guys you posted. but still, blew to pieces while i was leaving work. if cheap is a must, the best bet (and it's a good idea actually) is to get a used axle at about $25. the subaru axles last forever. for that matter....don't even replace the rears, it's not necessary. i've put 100,000+ miles on broken rear (original) CV axles. got the car at 105,000 with a broken boot, now at 220,000 on the same axles. i wouldn't worry about the rears. i don't worry much about the fronts either, but they start getting noisey. post in the parts wanted section of this forum that you want some used axles with good boots. some soobs break the drivers side boot fairly regularly (like EVERY XT6 i own) because the exhaust/muffler is right there heating up the rubber boot and causing it to fail earlier than the other side.

if you want a cheap paint job you have got to check out this thread: this is a MUST read. http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=dollar i think i posted it here too somewhere. i know this guy, saw the car, helped him fix it and was stunned at how it turned out. the $64 paint can paint job. it's amazing. i will say the pictures turned out very well. to my discredit it i told him not to try it and it was a waste of time. i stand corrected. he still has it, this is about two years ago. still holding up fine. that's with no clear coat as well.

i thought they had a center diff, but i've been wrong before. the XT6's definitely have a center diff and i've seen mention of swapping in WRX LSD center diffs on EA82 manual trans so i would think there's a chance it does. can't imagine how else they'd make it work. and the center diff is what gets fried if you tow an AWD soob. if you have the PT4WD trans then maybe that's different, i'm not sure, but if it's FT4WD then i think it has to have a center diff.

hopped up firebirds (don't know years/motor, but it's the high end motor early 2000's) run in the $500-$600 range due to severe access issues. i told my friend BS and bring it over for me to do. i called another friend, he said yeah it's like a 6 hour job. i passed. knowing nothing of the 3.0 subaru flat six i can't say anything except that access can be a serious issue.

it'll work so long as the center diff stays locked. did you try a search? i know others have done it, but not sure if i heard that here or on another forum? would be here or xt6.net at least.

i know, disappointing as it may sound i'm castrating this bugger of it's turbo. i tried, put together the block this weekend and it irritated me. if i'm going to mess with a turbo it's going on my XT6. so NA motor it is. promise you won't come and take it back!!!!!! promise!!! it is getting an XT6 power steering, 5 lug suspension, impreza wheels, and keeping the air suspension.

picked up a JDM EA82 to install in my XT Turbo (i'm removing all the turbo stuff). will i have to swap engine harnesses with mine? are the harnesses or sensors different? if it's a spider intake then it must be a GEN III and it has to be 87 or later model right? did anything other than XT's have the spider?

Picked up a non-turbo JDM EA82 today for my XT Turbo. yes i'm doing the opposite of what everyone else does, converting my 1987.5 XT Turbo FT4WD to non turbo. don't get confused, this is all backwards. will i need a non-turbo crossmember or will the EA82 fit in the EA82T crossmember? i know i'll need: non turbo exhaust non turbo fuel injectors. am i missing anything?

the axle nut can be 32 or 36, they vary. i've seen both.

correct. thanks to miles for this list of parts you need: (my comments in parentheses) DR Transmission (out of the car, sitting in the engine bay) Crossmember and long bolts (attached to the trans, have no idea where the bolts are, probably lying on the ground?) Front half of drive shaft (under the car, attached to the rear half of driveshaft, bolts stubborn) Clutch cable, pedal box, solenoids (all still in car, solenoids by drivers side strut tower if i forget to pull them) Flywheel (still attached to motor, i'll have to remove it) Shifter, linkage and console (attached to trans or lying on passengers seat) Front axles - according to Miles full time is 25 spline, AT is 23 spline (bolted to hub, free from trans, unbolt from hub and they'll slide right out) other items: instrument cluster is yours if you want it, take it. is you want the hill holder to work you'll need the brake master cylinder. let me know if you want that, i think i cut through the cable for that, but can send you one off my XT6.

these are hydraulic valve lash adjuster equipped motors, no valve adjustment is necessary or even possible. usually start with some MMO added to the oil and frequent oil changes. dirty oil makes the HLA's (hydraulic valve lash adjusters) finnicky. that could quiet them immediately or could take along time. if it doesnt' work soon, reseal the oil pump. 10 dollars in seals/gasket and an oring. requires removing the timing belt (not that hard of a job, easy on the EA82 in my oppinion). 230,000, it probably is the original transmission and engine, that's fairly typical on these motors trans. i've had them over 200,000 and my current daily driver is at 150 or 160,000 and i'm figuring it'll last to 200+ no problems. that's the norm for the motors. oil leaks and valve noise are the issues, but the non-turbo motors tend to last quite a long time. you have to overheat, run it out of oil and generally abuse them for any significant internal failure.