idosubaru

these things are finnicky with vaccum leaks, i'd check for that if you're not getting any engine codes. i resealed an EA82 a couple years ago (head gaskets and up) and it wouldn't start. finally got it started (very rough and wouldn't stay running very long) and it actually idled long enough for me to run to the motor and start playing with stuff and i noticed one time while leaning over the motor that it idled fine when i leaned on the oil cap???? i replaced the oil cap rubber seal, which was in the reseal kit i just didn't know what it was. the XT6 doesn't have this and runs fine with the oil cap removed, no effect at all. i'm used to the XT6 so i never had a clue why the EA82 ran so terrible with the oil cap off. also be sure the engine wiring harness plugs are seated all the way. i recall an instance of someone not getting it started and turned out one of the plugs didn't push all the way together, those two large plugs can be very tight. also recall another instance of someone bending a pin in one of the connectors so it didn't make contact. i did an XT6 a couple months ago and it wouldn't start. couldn't figure it out and ignored checking the cap/rotor because they were brand new, just installed and i was still getting spark. removed the cap and saw bits and pieces everywhere? i assume the rotor or cap were defective because they were torn to bits inside. the store gave me new replacements for free and the car started. do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to acc? or at least know for sure you're getting fuel? is the timing waaaaay off? spark plugs on the right cylinders? i'd have a look at timing or just do a compression test, that doesn't take long. compression, spark, gas and it should start.

the more details you can give the better. what happened to the old motor, details on the new and what you did during the swap? if the old motor had any leakage then there could be coolant/oil in the exhaust still blowing out. can take awhile to get it all out. some initial smoke isn't all that odd if you coated the cylinder walls with assembly lube or excessive oil either. engines can run rough on first start. you put 5 quarts of fresh oil in the motor? distributor is lined up correctly? timing belts aren't off by a tooth (or more). check the timing (if you moved the disty). is the gas bad? how long did the car sit during the swap? days, weeks, months? throttle cables could be sticking (high idle). check for spark at all the plugs. oh - edit/add on - everything is compatible for this swap - sensors, right type of MAF or MAP, ECU and Disty....there are minor differences across year and turbo/non-turbo that could have some affect on a swap. in which case knowing what was in it and exactly where the donor motor came from might help. i'm not up on all the differences but others are. good luck, hope to hear good news when i come back in the morning.

i have a few friends that would call you four letter words for being that lucky with your jeep trans.....but i see your explanation.

consensus is to not buy remanne'd axles. they fail at an alarming rate. go with MWE (find them here on this site) or Subaru OEM axles. rebuilds break, i'm a victim talking from experience. about a week and 50 miles on a "new" axle, though not from the guys you posted. but still, blew to pieces while i was leaving work. if cheap is a must, the best bet (and it's a good idea actually) is to get a used axle at about $25. the subaru axles last forever. for that matter....don't even replace the rears, it's not necessary. i've put 100,000+ miles on broken rear (original) CV axles. got the car at 105,000 with a broken boot, now at 220,000 on the same axles. i wouldn't worry about the rears. i don't worry much about the fronts either, but they start getting noisey. post in the parts wanted section of this forum that you want some used axles with good boots. some soobs break the drivers side boot fairly regularly (like EVERY XT6 i own) because the exhaust/muffler is right there heating up the rubber boot and causing it to fail earlier than the other side.

if you want a cheap paint job you have got to check out this thread: this is a MUST read. http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=dollar i think i posted it here too somewhere. i know this guy, saw the car, helped him fix it and was stunned at how it turned out. the $64 paint can paint job. it's amazing. i will say the pictures turned out very well. to my discredit it i told him not to try it and it was a waste of time. i stand corrected. he still has it, this is about two years ago. still holding up fine. that's with no clear coat as well.

i thought they had a center diff, but i've been wrong before. the XT6's definitely have a center diff and i've seen mention of swapping in WRX LSD center diffs on EA82 manual trans so i would think there's a chance it does. can't imagine how else they'd make it work. and the center diff is what gets fried if you tow an AWD soob. if you have the PT4WD trans then maybe that's different, i'm not sure, but if it's FT4WD then i think it has to have a center diff.

hopped up firebirds (don't know years/motor, but it's the high end motor early 2000's) run in the $500-$600 range due to severe access issues. i told my friend BS and bring it over for me to do. i called another friend, he said yeah it's like a 6 hour job. i passed. knowing nothing of the 3.0 subaru flat six i can't say anything except that access can be a serious issue.

it'll work so long as the center diff stays locked. did you try a search? i know others have done it, but not sure if i heard that here or on another forum? would be here or xt6.net at least.

i know, disappointing as it may sound i'm castrating this bugger of it's turbo. i tried, put together the block this weekend and it irritated me. if i'm going to mess with a turbo it's going on my XT6. so NA motor it is. promise you won't come and take it back!!!!!! promise!!! it is getting an XT6 power steering, 5 lug suspension, impreza wheels, and keeping the air suspension.

picked up a JDM EA82 to install in my XT Turbo (i'm removing all the turbo stuff). will i have to swap engine harnesses with mine? are the harnesses or sensors different? if it's a spider intake then it must be a GEN III and it has to be 87 or later model right? did anything other than XT's have the spider?

Picked up a non-turbo JDM EA82 today for my XT Turbo. yes i'm doing the opposite of what everyone else does, converting my 1987.5 XT Turbo FT4WD to non turbo. don't get confused, this is all backwards. will i need a non-turbo crossmember or will the EA82 fit in the EA82T crossmember? i know i'll need: non turbo exhaust non turbo fuel injectors. am i missing anything?

the axle nut can be 32 or 36, they vary. i've seen both.

correct. thanks to miles for this list of parts you need: (my comments in parentheses) DR Transmission (out of the car, sitting in the engine bay) Crossmember and long bolts (attached to the trans, have no idea where the bolts are, probably lying on the ground?) Front half of drive shaft (under the car, attached to the rear half of driveshaft, bolts stubborn) Clutch cable, pedal box, solenoids (all still in car, solenoids by drivers side strut tower if i forget to pull them) Flywheel (still attached to motor, i'll have to remove it) Shifter, linkage and console (attached to trans or lying on passengers seat) Front axles - according to Miles full time is 25 spline, AT is 23 spline (bolted to hub, free from trans, unbolt from hub and they'll slide right out) other items: instrument cluster is yours if you want it, take it. is you want the hill holder to work you'll need the brake master cylinder. let me know if you want that, i think i cut through the cable for that, but can send you one off my XT6.

these are hydraulic valve lash adjuster equipped motors, no valve adjustment is necessary or even possible. usually start with some MMO added to the oil and frequent oil changes. dirty oil makes the HLA's (hydraulic valve lash adjusters) finnicky. that could quiet them immediately or could take along time. if it doesnt' work soon, reseal the oil pump. 10 dollars in seals/gasket and an oring. requires removing the timing belt (not that hard of a job, easy on the EA82 in my oppinion). 230,000, it probably is the original transmission and engine, that's fairly typical on these motors trans. i've had them over 200,000 and my current daily driver is at 150 or 160,000 and i'm figuring it'll last to 200+ no problems. that's the norm for the motors. oil leaks and valve noise are the issues, but the non-turbo motors tend to last quite a long time. you have to overheat, run it out of oil and generally abuse them for any significant internal failure.

assuming nothing is wrong, the stub will slide back in. i would assume the bad cv axle worked the stub loose, that's no big deal. there is definitely no need to do a transmission swap, installing a stub takes about 8 seconds. i've pulled stubs out before, they are held in place by a circlip at the base on the trans side of the stub...i think. it's been awhile. post a picture of it if you can, that will jog my memory. if the circlip is still dangling from the stub, then just press it back in. might take some leverage or gentle tapping with a mallet to pop it in. if you yank on a CV still connected to the trans the stubs pull out relatively easily, that's not a big deal at all. do not bother thinking about replacing the seal there either, big PITA. if your stub doesn't have that circlip then maybe my memory is failing. either way, i've pulled them out and reinstalled them before and it's really easy, that's the bottom line. used Subaru CV joints are excellent candidates for replacement. the boot may break but the axles never do. i've had a couple 200,000+ mile XT6's that i've driven off road and lots of miles with broken boots and the only axle i've ever had break was a new (remane'd) with about 50 miles or less on it. i've driven the subaru axles 50,000 miles front and 100,000 miles on the rear with broken boots and clicking...but they never break (for me).

or find a used 2.2 liter motor that doesn't blow headgaskets and be done with the 2.5's! then you'd be done for under $500. plenty on the board have done it. the 2.2 is a great motor (and i have one for sale by the way, shameless plug). it's cheaper, no head gasket issues, less time than a head gasket job...not a bad option. but a little less power. if you have the time/money/tools then go wtih the all out rebuild. drop the block off for a rebuild. if the block is okay, reuse it. any shop will rebuild the heads. i just had a set of 6 cylinder subaru heads done for $175 for a complete valve job, pressure test and machining. and that shop is not the cheapest around, but they do specialize in aluminum heads and have worked on subaru heads before. and i like them. do you know your block is toast for sure? block rebuilds are the real expense. you could look for a used block that doesnt' need rebuilt, and install your heads with new gaskets.

how does exhaust gas reduce temps? the exhaust is post-combustion hot stuff right? will blocking a working EGR valve (not leaking) affect mileage at all?

i like that philosophy!

what does this affect? i'd like to do the same. don't you need to plug the hole in the head as well? does it affect gas mileage? always seemed weird that's it's only on one side of the exhaust?

sorry jake, i was wondering if piston slap ever occurs with the 2.2 liter motor.

are you positive of the year of your car? maybe check the date of manufacture to be sure of the month and year? your close enough that maybe you still have the cable?

i don't think you have to worry about a fire. unless i'm not understanding you, the possibility of an exhaust leak won't cause any increased risk in fire. those exhaust studs and threads are annoying, i feel your pain on that one. good job with the quick fix though, that's hardcore. i like it. can you try welding over it again? i've patched exhaust before and nothing short of welding has proved long-term. if the patch holds up, let us know and post exactly what stuff you used.

for safety make sure immediatley that the axle nut isn't coming loose like just mentioned. i don't bother with torque spec's on them, i tighten them as far as i can with my 3 foot pipe on the end of a 3/4" ratchet. there have been lots of problems with reman axles. go with subaru OEM axles or MWE. even used axles with good boots are a good option and inexpensive. the stock OEM axles are excellent and i've never seen one break. i am the victim of reman'ed axles breaking. it's crazy....the Subaru OEM 20 year old axles never break, but remann'ed axles do? i would inspect the cv's next and probably replace them if you can't figure anything else out. with vibrating, steering drift and noises, it could be alot of things, cv axles seem the best bet for causing all of them. check those, replace and post results.

is this 2.5 or can it also be in a 2.2 liter motor?

they have drawbacks as far as high output is concerned. subarubrat looked into turbo options and decided against the ER27T due to block design, cooling ability, oil supply, oil galleys, etc. for reliable high power, the EJ is probably the way to go. the EJ series mounts line up fine with EA series cars so i don't think the EJ would be that far off in the XT6. might have to take a drill to the existing motor mount holes, but that's no big deal. probably better off getting an EJ trans, but you could just get an adapter plate for your XT6 transmission so the engine bolts up. not sure if you'd have to move the trans forward to meet up with the trans, but if you did you'd have to have the driveshaft lengthened. if you stayed with the XT6 trans you wouldn't have to worry about the hubs, cv axle differences, drive shaft differences, swapping the rear diff and cv's, linkages. but the EJ is probably a better trans.