idosubaru

you can always drive it until the DR blows then upgrade to an EJ trans that was built for the EJ engine. WJM showed the LSD front center diff of the newer generation EJ's will swap into the EA series trans. not sure if it's worth the work if the trans won't hold though. and this has been done before...check the retrofitting forum for suberdave, super nice ride.

if your current car is an EJ series then the dual range EA series trans will not bolt up without a custom adapter. i believe your car is an EJ, but i'm not real familiar what year they changed either. at least you're not going auto to manual, that's even more annoying, the pedal assembly and shifter to mess with. having a donor vehicle with trans and associated parts is nice.

i'm confused how it flipped looking at the photo's, the road appears flat? you said "going down a slope trying to avoid a big rut"......i think "trying to avoid the big flat snow covered road 10 feet away" is more accurate. admit it, you were playing around! no better way to learn than testing the limits, glad all is well and even the subaru has a chance of making it through all of this.

now that i think about it, sometimes i think the diff number could be "up higher" on the rear foil stamp and covered by the bar that the diff hangs from. you can turn the driveshaft and count how many times the wheel turns. or turn the wheel and count how many times the driveshaft turns...you get the point. 39 for every 10 would be a 3.9 ratio 41 for every 10 would be a 4.11 ratio etc.... from what i'm seeing on that chart, the impreza in the yard should match up to your 95 legacy, but you are wise to double check!

awesome. that's craziness.

you'll also need the driveshaft and the cross member the diff bolts too (rear mustache bar?).

it will definitely bolt up and work if you grab the rear diff. not sure what other parts exactly that you'd need though. the rear differential has a metal foil plate on it that has the diff ratio stamped/printed on it. read the diff ratio and make sure they are the same or grab the one from the donor parts car if you're not sure, then you'll know it will work.

i would re-evaluate the throttle reponse after the engine racing/temperature sensor problem is resolved. temp sensors can cause driveability issues like you mentioned.

now that the car is driving properly, other problems might be more noticeable if that makes sense. i'd have the transmission fluid changed and install an ATF cooler if you'd like to keep that same transmission in good shape. it's nearing 15 years old, has the ATF ever been changed?

if you can post a pic the experts here might get a better idea.

cost i'd definitely pay for one for an EA82 or ER27 depending on final cost and if it's plug and play/has directions, etc. if it's much cheaper to figure it out then i'll do that. there is a market, it may not be on this group, but there is one out there.

the parts stores i go to won't have a "direct match" and won't be able to look up what studs you need. but if you take in an old stud, they will have one that is nearly and identical match. the ones i always buy are nearly the same, but only work if installed one way. they have a small midsection where there are no threads, so you have to install the stud such that the "unthreaded" portion is buried in the heads/header so that you can torque the nut all the way to the head. in other words, install the "short" threaded side up into the head. that's alot of words, but it's really simple. just take in an old one to match up what you need.

head gasket, your situation isn't as weird as you think. there are numerous threads about "undetectable" overheating....which always ends up being head gaskets on these motors....okay, almost always! you can pick up a 2.2 liter motor for a couple hundred and swap it in, it's nearly a direct swap and 2.2 motors are easy to find. and they don't have the head gasket issues the 2.5 has. if you choose to fix it, the newer head gasket is an updated version and solves the leaky head gasket issues assuming the block isn't toasted. many have successfully replaced the head gaskets in 2.5's.

how well do you trust the mechanic/dealer that's doing the work? they can often be traced to lying, misdiagnosis, saying something was fixed when it wasn't....etc. the more jobs the mechanics get to the more money they make, don't expect quality or accuracy when that's the driving factor. not saying that's the case, but that is possible anywhere not just subaru. haven't seen many brake caliper failures so i wouldn't consider this normal.

the original belts were 60,000 mile change interval. if you buy a newer belt it has a different part number, like the last letter or something, very close, but it's an "updated" version, and has a change interval of 105,000. there is debate over whether the belt is really any different or they just used the same california specification belt across all models....that is unknown but it is true that there are two part numbers and two different change intervals. a good parts guy can look up both part numbers if you're interested. be sure you're getting a newer version belt and not "new old stock" which could be the older 60,000 mile belt.

i don't know your area. but i've seen 3 2.5's in the past month (talking to a lady now with a fantastic 99 legacy) all under $1000 with blown head gaskets. $500, $750 and $900.

Six cylinder Subaru's: 1988-1991 Subaru XT6 145 hp 1992-1997 Subaru SVX 230 hp Not sure which models come with the newer 6 cylinder engines. Haven't heard of anyone swapping in the newer 6 cylinder motors. The SVX and XT6 engines have been put in various other things...though most of the examples i can think of are non-subaru. but some have the XT6 engine in their 4 cylinder subaru's. you can swap anything you want, depends on time and money and how good you are. if the newer gen's are like the old, then it's probably not a ton of custom work to swap in a 6 cylinder. probably bolts right up to 4 cyilnder transmissions. probably easier and much cheaper to turbo an existing 4 for more power though.

replace the tie rod ends and also the steering rack bushings. both are safety items for sure and i plan on getting new tie rod ends as well for a same reason. guy at work had a tie rod break on him, very unsafe predicament for sure. never seen it happen in a subaru though. if the steering is "sloppy" at all, new bushings will fix that. i just did it last night on a subaru. required removing four 14mm bolts to replace the steering rack bushings, very easy to do. bad bushing will make the steering feel "sloppy" by drifting and "taking too long" to adjust to the input at the steering wheel. like you turn left and it takes a second or two before it goes that way. or while driving straight it could pull left or right a little. that is a sign of bad bushings, not the steering rack. though an unscrupulous mechanic could surely make a lot of money by mis-diagnosing that as a bad rack. the bushings just wrap around the steering rack, very simple. when they are old and warn, their is too much play between the rack and the two mounting brackets which causes the drift and issues mentioned earlier. i picked up high performance impreza bushings made out of some super stellar moon cheese material...i don't know, they are supposed to be stiffer and feel better so i got 'em! they fit perfectly on an older generation XT Turbo.

might be as simple as frozen internals. any reason why water may have gotten down in there recently? if so, pull it in the sunlight for awhile. or blast the heat inside. i don't think the interior panel will come off with the door closed, though it may. the hand up will be the edges, i believe most are lipped and seal around the body when the door is shut. but give it a try, they come off easy enough to make it worth a shot. otherwise there are plastic clips and gadgets in there, not sure which could fail. someone that's had this happen before will hopefully speak up.

the subaru XT6 (ER27) has been mounted in porshce 911's though not with a subaru transmission so i guess that does you no good. eric tischer is the guys name if you want to look him up on the internet, i've spoke with him in the past. he has pictures of his set up, rear engine.

i didn't look into it thoroughly so it is very possible that the wires were the same if they were'nt divided the same between the two connectors. you're information is more thorough than mine if you went into it that far.

completed installing the XT6 steering rack into my XT Turbo. This is very easy and i am glad not to have a belt driven power steering pump anymore. I used: XT6 Steering rack. New Impreza Steering Bushings. The original XT Turbo tie rod ends (i'll upgrade to XT6 when i do the 5 lug swap) The original XT Turbo Lines with fittings that screw into the steering rack. The XT6 power steering lines from the pump (these attach to the XT Turbo lines mentioned one line above this) All went well, very easy to do (i had the motor out though) and everything bolts right up. Look forward to giving it a spin once i drop this JDM motor back in it. Then the computer/wiring fun stuff begins!

pre-2000 2.5 liter engines are more of a risk than any other subaru motor. that doesn't mean anything happens at any time. it could last a week...the person might be selling it because it's already starting to show symptoms (which do not show themselves with normal testing), or it could never give you issues. the "new" headgasket design fixes the problem, so if a head gasket is replaced or the motor is newer than 2000 then you're golden.

i don't know that the EA82 can see any benefits from an oil cooler. i think i asked in one of the threads awhile ago and was told it is essentially pointless to put it on the non turbo EA82. the EA82T heats the oil up substantially more due to the turbo and in that case it could be very beneficial.

that's odd, i saw no similarities between the two. wire colors appeared to be completely different, maybe i need to look again. it's all done now so hopefully it'll run. gary