idosubaru

when it's not on the A/C compressor is free wheeling. assuming the bearings are good, an A/C pulley spins wildly with minimal effort....give one a try if you never have. it won't make any difference (again, assuming the a/c pulley bearings are good). removing the a/c is sometimes just a matter of the a/c not working and the pulley bearings being hosed. this will eat your belt up quick, i've had to remove the a/c belt for that reason. the power steering pump causes more load on the belt system (though i'm not saying a huge amount, but more than a/c), so i removed the power steering. it added about 23 hp (ha ha!!!). i just did it for kicks really, swapped in an entire XT6 pump, rack, lines, etc. the XT6 rack is a quicker rack as well. i did NOT remove the a/c so i'm mistaken in thinking that MorganM's setup was exactly like mine. i already PM'ed him with a link to this thread and his set up is different than mine, so don't bug him! but thanks Numbchux! i removed the power steering pump. so i'm left with alternator, water pump and a/c. no power steering. i'll just have to guess, thanks for all the help. when i did this on an XT6 i did the "pull a string around the pulleys and measure" method and it didn't work. i measured, bought a belt and it was way too short?? maybe i can't measure?

you need to find out what code it's throwing. check the memory, it stores the codes. this is sounding more and more like CTS related. it takes 2 minutes to pull that connector off. actually a good test of the CTS connection is while the car is running to grab the connector and jiggle it on the CTS, if the connection is bad the engine will show it by changing pitch, idling, shut off, run good, etc...do something different as you're moving it around. CTS - have you pulled the connector off to have a look? the sensor itself is not the issue (they never fail), the corrossion and bad contacts at the connector are the issue. and it causes very intermittent issues at first....and CEL from time to time. replacing the sensor temporarily fixes the issue because a new one has clean contact points, but it returns if you don't address the dirty contacts in the connector as well, they will corrode the new sensor contacts. pull the connector off and let me know if it's clean or dirty. once the connector is corroded bad it's nearly impossible to get it all cleaned out as the corrossion gradually goes up further and even into the wiring and will always return. my permanent fix is here and comes highly recommended by me as i've seen this on a few occassions: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=coolant+temperature+sensor Distributor - the main failure point of the distributor you're looking for is the sensor....well, is this an MPFI EA82? if it is the distributor has the crank angle sensor built into the base of it, that's what the wiring is for associated with the distry. this sensor will fail...unfortunately testing for this is very complicated and i don't even want to start this discussion all over again as it resulted in about 5 pages worth of banter last time. but - easiest to swap in a good distributor as testing them can be ineffective in my experience. while we're talking about the disty, check the cap and rotor and make sure they haven't started coming apart internally. i've seen them torn apart inside with stuff hanging around, but somehow still create spark.

NO WAY!!!! AWESOME!!! pressurize the tank and it'll run? for how long? a mile, 10 miles, 50 miles? that's nuts!

no bearing goes in the crankshaft side. nice hit on getting it out.

could you argue smaller motor, better mpg, lower emissions? long process i doubt you'd want to start. how about getting the emissions tested before you put the motor in? and WATCH what they do, if they don't pop the hood then they aren't looking for the engine code. or just go to one (that you're not going to use!) and watch and see if they are actually popping hoods and scouring around for engine codes. cut and weld the EJ25 boss onto the EJ22.....WOO HOO!!!! i think i'd do that just for the coolness...DANG I'M GOOD FACTOR!!!!! almost makes me want to do it for you.

exact motor my F150 has, what kind of gas mileage you get? mine SUCKS. 15 mpg highway whether i'm towing a car or not?!!?!?

Check fluid level. Check the transmission filter and make sure it's not dented or smashed, i think around 1998 some (if not all) subaru transmissions went to an external screw on filter (like an engine oil filter). Check the transmission pan and make sure it's not dented. Make sure the transmission is actually going into the gear the shifter says it's in. Sounds like the shifter could be mal-adjusted? Try jiggling it back and forth alot when it won't go and see if that helps. Does the POWER light blink when you first start the car?

what couldn't it be? there's alot of things in a car that will keep it from going places. try to narrow it down to motor or trans related.

good point wayne. no need to make anything harder than necessary. new gasket does solve the issue and there is lots of info here and elsewhere on doing 2.5 head gaskets.

gotta be careful for sure. cars with signs of issues often end up on the market. sorry to hear yours has issues. no warranty, return options, etc?

agreed, you can buy a good running 2.2 for a few more dollars. if you lived out east you could buy mine for $250 that's running with 103,000 miles. but...if supply is low out that way it might be worth it to you. $150 isn't really that much. compression test it and see how it does. take a battery and compression tester and see what you get.

crazy freaks, you guys rock. thanks for sharing. i hate carbs, but am totally jealous that i can't do that with EFI.

i'm assuming this is a direct swap?

sounds like it's going good - at least you don't have the 98 and up issues. 95 and 96 drop right in with only P/S questions. and i bet that is minimal if not non-existant.

Morgan, hope you're subscribed to this thread! i just removed the power steering pump from my XT Turbo and will only be driving the alt and water pump as well. do you have any info on the exact belt you're using? length, part number, where you got it? i had a terrible time getting the right belt for my non stock XT6, ended up with a 4 ribbed belt instead of the stock 6 cause they couldn't get the size i needed. looks like the EA82 might not be as tricky.

i believe he only had starter bolt issues because he has a '99 car, if you notice i mentioned that in my last post. so - your starter bolt issue is solved - because there won't be an issue. only issue i can see is power steering line related. i think this could be related to the 1999 model year as well. i'm almost certain that if you grab a 2.2 with the power steering pump and the lines connecting to the pump those will bolt right in your vehicle. but i'm not positive on that one.

everything is relative, compared to pulling a motor lots of things are minor. you are correct that 97 started the 2.2 inteference engine. if you have a 95 engine (dual port exhaust) or a 96 engine (single port) with the exhaust header - everything will bolt right up to your 2.5 liter set up. nothing out of the ordinary or custom needed. i'm not positive of this, but i thought the starter bolt issues were only on 1998 and up as the motor and auto trans changed some that year. only one of the two starter bolts would line up. in which case your options are to drill out the other hole and tap (the location is already there, it's just not tapped) or only use one bolt. both of which has been done with no issues.

start reading. if you're starting out like i did with no mechanical knowledge, friends or family that do anything like this then your best bet is to hit these boards and the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your vehicle. make a list of things you want to do and get familiar with the *search* function, i've learned alot from that thing. lots of awesome subaru specific or model specific information, tricks and tips here that go well beyond what even a mechanic or FSM could tell you. good luck and have fun.

you aren't confined to the 95. newer model 2.2's work as well. if you use a 96/97 2.2 then you'll need the exhaust header as well, that's all. it bolts right in place. get the exhaust header and power steering pump w/ lines connected to it and the newer model 2.2's will swap as well.

i don't know anything about the 3 speed, but there's more information on this board. there's a search function that might help.

check the MAF - if it's the hot wire type, pull it off and look at the wires inside of it, they are very hard to see because they are so thin. but it's really easy to look in there. if any are broken that will cause the issues you're having and the ECU will not throw any codes. more guesses: are the timing belts set dead on and tensioned properly? bad distributor. you say the CTS isn't plugged in, else i'd guess that to be at fault as well. maybe injector #3 has issues?

can you give a better description of where it's leaking from? a photo of the leak would be awesome. a leak on top the transmission sounds really weird, so that's why i'm asking for more details. i'd expect a leak at the rear output shaft, the axle stubs or the drain plug. those are the main leak points. the manual doesn't say much because transmission leaks aren't common and typically are very easy to figure out. if it's leaking out the rear, it's the rear output shaft seal. same for the front two diff/axle stub seals. if it is coming from between the engine and trans that's not a good thing as i just worked on a transmission last night and there's definitely no external seal there that would be easy to get to. and if there was i don't think it would be worth the effort to replace it. the transmission may be fine, but it also might be toast. running without oil ruins things quickly.

if the motor is moving too much, try getting a longer hose (if possible?) or at least adjusting the existing one, moving the hose on the engine side a little if you've got room. i wouldn't move the radiator side as the radiator is plastic and you need as much grip on there as possible and keep it from the end where it's possible to crack. love your neighbor! ever think about confronting them? ask them to start over, forget the BS, appologize (even if you didn't do anything) and try to go from there. sorry...maybe we can start a "fix your neighbor forum".. good luck with the hose.

that sucks. i've probably ordered a dozen or more times from them and no issue yet. at least they did the right thing, that's good to know for future reference even though it required persistence. the price we pay for cheap parts! i've gotten the wrong part (2WD for 4WD actually) ordering from subaru before....you think if anyone would know they would. good luck, hopefully it didn't set you back to bad. that had to suck opening up that box, ready to go at it. complimentary overnight shipping would have been sweet.

they have to be available from somewhere as the place on ccr's website rebuilt them.