idosubaru

any shop should be able to do wheel bearings. get a price quote from them. this is a fairly standard job on any vehicle, it's not uncommon for bearings to be replaced on any type vehicle so any shop would be familiar with it. on some subaru's (all older AWD EA82 models) the rears are actually much more difficult as they are stamped in and require a goofy tool or some meticulous use of a punch. not sure if the newer EJ models are the same. another option is buying the bearings yourself and calling around to local machine shops and take them your hub and bearings and have them do it for $50-$75. this is what i do. they charge $50 a hub to install new bearings that i supply. another option is installing a used hub. i have subaru's with 200,000+ miles on the original hubs and bearings so i would consider this a decent option to save a few hundred dollars. a used hub can be found for under $50. buy hub, have a shop install it if you can't do it yourself.

installed the XT motor in my XT Turbo (so now it's a non-turbo). i can't figure out anyway to get the PCV hoses routed right for the intake. can anyone post a picture of the XT PCV hose set up? particularly where the two hoses fit into the intake by the throttle body. if anyone is willing to do that, a picture of the vaccuum hoses will be needed at some point as well. i see two vaccum ports on top the intake manifold, bother are plugged with square bolts. not sure if they are used or not.

no doubt, a newbie scouring for info. awesome!

$700 for a clutch is about normal. but it can vary alot depending on who you know, dealer, city, rural areas....that's the variance. first - have it adjusted if at all possible. i'm not sure if it's clutch or hydraulic either, but i just pulled a motor on the exact same car, a 1997 OBS and i thought for sure it's just cable driven, no hydraulic cylinder involved. practice shifting without using the clutch, works fine in the older subaru's. obviously does you no good from a stop. it's tricky and seems hard at first, but once you figure it out and learn how to match the rpm's just right it's a breeze and kind of funny. won't help you much in city driving, but i do it all the time on my mostly highway trip to work. eventually the car can lock up and leave you stranded if it wears out too bad. baby the clutch and it may last awhile, although smelling it doesn't sound good.

if it doesn't get any oil supply then it is almost certainly grease. the distributor gear does sit down in the cam and is lubricated by oil, so if it gets oil routed from there some how then maybe it's open and oil lubricated? you edited your post after i replied, no matter though. thanks for the link and bearing number/size information, i can use this for other items for sure. i've tried to look up bearings before.

excellent holmes, found it: 6661K101 Precision-Plus Steel Ball Bearing -- ABEC-1 Double Sealed Bearing No. 6200 for 10 mm Shaft Dia In stock at $7.97 Each thanks!

how about a tune up? at that low mileage the engine long block (case, heads,cam) should not have any issues. you should have great compression and near new performance ben. agree on the seafoam in the gas tank comment, get a couple cans of injector cleaner if you'd like. try new: plugs, wires, air filter, PCV valve, fuel filter, O2 sensor.... those are replacement items that can affect performance to varying degrees. normally not much, but more likely than internal engine issues on a low mileage block.

they carry ABEC bearings, how did you cross reference the part you needed? i like their inventory, now to cross reference which bearings are the same as our NTN bearings. great info.

everything looks normal in the engine bay? check for spark, the heat could have fried the ignition coil. check cap and rotor. check the fusible links under the hood (close the battery on most subaru's) the heat could have caused something to fail.

awesome, nice find and thanks for the info! thought it would be a bit lower priced, but for being the only source i've ever seen i can't complain. $67.

advanced auto parts, autozone and other parts stores will read your codes for free. right down the exact code and details it spits out. sometimes the guy might say "oh it's a vacuum line or gas cap". while he might be right, better to write down the exact code then have him tell you the wrong thing to replace and then you're left scratching your head.

i'm technically in MD but 20 minutes south of gettysburg so i live only a few minutes from PA, in "the south". and baltimore guy, there are a few maryland members but not many active ones. i have a blue 1997 OBS just like you. actually three but one's a 98.

yeah that sucks. if they misinformed you, talk to the manager and maybe they'll let you have the rear diff for free? that will fix the issue and save you $60.

my XT6 with 220,000 miles always did this as well. didn't do it when i got the car at 105,000, but started some time after that. i know for a fact the cooling system was always full and everything worked fine. interesting.

when it's not on the A/C compressor is free wheeling. assuming the bearings are good, an A/C pulley spins wildly with minimal effort....give one a try if you never have. it won't make any difference (again, assuming the a/c pulley bearings are good). removing the a/c is sometimes just a matter of the a/c not working and the pulley bearings being hosed. this will eat your belt up quick, i've had to remove the a/c belt for that reason. the power steering pump causes more load on the belt system (though i'm not saying a huge amount, but more than a/c), so i removed the power steering. it added about 23 hp (ha ha!!!). i just did it for kicks really, swapped in an entire XT6 pump, rack, lines, etc. the XT6 rack is a quicker rack as well. i did NOT remove the a/c so i'm mistaken in thinking that MorganM's setup was exactly like mine. i already PM'ed him with a link to this thread and his set up is different than mine, so don't bug him! but thanks Numbchux! i removed the power steering pump. so i'm left with alternator, water pump and a/c. no power steering. i'll just have to guess, thanks for all the help. when i did this on an XT6 i did the "pull a string around the pulleys and measure" method and it didn't work. i measured, bought a belt and it was way too short?? maybe i can't measure?

you need to find out what code it's throwing. check the memory, it stores the codes. this is sounding more and more like CTS related. it takes 2 minutes to pull that connector off. actually a good test of the CTS connection is while the car is running to grab the connector and jiggle it on the CTS, if the connection is bad the engine will show it by changing pitch, idling, shut off, run good, etc...do something different as you're moving it around. CTS - have you pulled the connector off to have a look? the sensor itself is not the issue (they never fail), the corrossion and bad contacts at the connector are the issue. and it causes very intermittent issues at first....and CEL from time to time. replacing the sensor temporarily fixes the issue because a new one has clean contact points, but it returns if you don't address the dirty contacts in the connector as well, they will corrode the new sensor contacts. pull the connector off and let me know if it's clean or dirty. once the connector is corroded bad it's nearly impossible to get it all cleaned out as the corrossion gradually goes up further and even into the wiring and will always return. my permanent fix is here and comes highly recommended by me as i've seen this on a few occassions: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=coolant+temperature+sensor Distributor - the main failure point of the distributor you're looking for is the sensor....well, is this an MPFI EA82? if it is the distributor has the crank angle sensor built into the base of it, that's what the wiring is for associated with the distry. this sensor will fail...unfortunately testing for this is very complicated and i don't even want to start this discussion all over again as it resulted in about 5 pages worth of banter last time. but - easiest to swap in a good distributor as testing them can be ineffective in my experience. while we're talking about the disty, check the cap and rotor and make sure they haven't started coming apart internally. i've seen them torn apart inside with stuff hanging around, but somehow still create spark.

NO WAY!!!! AWESOME!!! pressurize the tank and it'll run? for how long? a mile, 10 miles, 50 miles? that's nuts!

no bearing goes in the crankshaft side. nice hit on getting it out.

could you argue smaller motor, better mpg, lower emissions? long process i doubt you'd want to start. how about getting the emissions tested before you put the motor in? and WATCH what they do, if they don't pop the hood then they aren't looking for the engine code. or just go to one (that you're not going to use!) and watch and see if they are actually popping hoods and scouring around for engine codes. cut and weld the EJ25 boss onto the EJ22.....WOO HOO!!!! i think i'd do that just for the coolness...DANG I'M GOOD FACTOR!!!!! almost makes me want to do it for you.

exact motor my F150 has, what kind of gas mileage you get? mine SUCKS. 15 mpg highway whether i'm towing a car or not?!!?!?

Check fluid level. Check the transmission filter and make sure it's not dented or smashed, i think around 1998 some (if not all) subaru transmissions went to an external screw on filter (like an engine oil filter). Check the transmission pan and make sure it's not dented. Make sure the transmission is actually going into the gear the shifter says it's in. Sounds like the shifter could be mal-adjusted? Try jiggling it back and forth alot when it won't go and see if that helps. Does the POWER light blink when you first start the car?

what couldn't it be? there's alot of things in a car that will keep it from going places. try to narrow it down to motor or trans related.

good point wayne. no need to make anything harder than necessary. new gasket does solve the issue and there is lots of info here and elsewhere on doing 2.5 head gaskets.

gotta be careful for sure. cars with signs of issues often end up on the market. sorry to hear yours has issues. no warranty, return options, etc?

agreed, you can buy a good running 2.2 for a few more dollars. if you lived out east you could buy mine for $250 that's running with 103,000 miles. but...if supply is low out that way it might be worth it to you. $150 isn't really that much. compression test it and see how it does. take a battery and compression tester and see what you get.