idosubaru

that's what i got too reading through info - i don't have the hill holder installled, so maybe (hopeful but doubtful) that's the issue. is the clutch disk install really that simple....use the tool to hold it centered, but otherwise it's just "laying in there" so to speak as you bolt the pressure plate on? uh-oh...i wonder if i jacked this up - i used an EA82T flywheel and XT6 clutch and pressure plate. is that a problem?

i cleaned all the old gunked up dirty grease off the clutch fork and greased up the pivot really well. followed the FSM as best as i could except i didn't use the special "molybdemunmbidamumm grease" it suggested, i just used regular grease at the suggestion of others. i'll check the pedal/cable. (mucho hopeful this is the case....) thanks!

subarian..... thanks for the input. fork is on the pivot for sure. now i'm wondering if i installed the clutch disc properly. it seemed to just "sit in place", seemed very easy to do. i knew i should have verified ahead of time. i used the clutch tool to hold the disc centered in place while i bolted the flywheel up. is this tricky or could i have messed it up? it seemed way to easy, like the clutch disk was just sitting in there and the tool did little more than hold it centered? i think i'm about to hate 5 speeds more than i already did. automatics rule. ha ha, thanks for the feedback. i'm hoping the cable is mal-adjusted.

shouldn't be doing that. sounds like torque bind - search on that and you'll get alot of info from the board here. check fluid, change fluid are first things. also - do all the tires match? a mismatched tire (one worn down more than the rest for example) can cause this as well. but usually it'll come and go and not be constant from what i've seen. screws with the input to the computer i think.

i noticed the eye for a spring...i'll look into getting a spring for that. when i let off the pedal it just stays on the floor, it doesn't come back up. i can't feel anything engaging, nothing about it feels right. press down and it falls to the floor and doesn't come back up. i'll check adjustment too. being my first clutch install let me verify this: first the flywheel bolts to the motor? then the clutch basically sits inside the flywheel...use the alignment tool and it sits inside there right? i hope i didn't screw that up. then the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel. what holds the clutch disk in place? i bet i'm pulling the engine again....

it will not bolt up to any EA or ER series motor without an adapter plate and also some wiring issues. you'd need wiring loom or make one yourself, ECu and all the appropriate sensors. it's all different and room available for the swap into an EA engine bay might be tricky as well. probably have to pull the engine to replace a valve cover.

if the radiator is in question at all i'd get a new one. new two row radiators can be had for 85-120 depending on source. i've taken side tanks off and it's an annoying job to me and not worth it, but most of my radiators are in bad shape. i've mailed side tanks to people in far off countries that can't get parts (for the XT6), that's the only reason i've taken them off. there are a number of people on the boards that have mentioned rodding out the radiators, might want to search some more if you're interested in that method i've seen it mentioned a number of times by board members. a radiator shop can also do this for you. if you do want to flush it out i'd buy a number of gallons of distilled water. drain the entire cooling system and refill with distilled water. repeat this a number of times and finish by adding half and half of coolant/distilled water or whatever mixture you like. then refill your batteries with the left overs, if they are the miantenance type, they should take distilled water only as well. or buy the chemical kits and follow the directions.

that is only for OBD generation vehicles. not sure what years this is applicable to, but his 1990 legacy won't have OBD plugs so they can't help him out. normally this is an excellent method for diagnosing the Check Engine light. i'm not familar with 90's legacies but if it has the LED read out of the codes, follow those directions posted and you'll be golden. easy to do and you can do it yourself if you can count blinking lights.

i helped him with the windshield replacement and hub bearings. then in my mastery of all things vehicular i told him painting it himself was a bad idea. he kept asking me about painting and i couldn't believe he was even considering using cans. glad he proved me wrong, i learned alot that day about what i "know". http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5307&highlight=xt+turbo here's a picture of my 87.5 XT Turbo engine bay. i'm at work and can't zoom in or i'd try to narrow down the two connectors on top the drivers side strut tower. sounds like this is not even close to the 86 set up so it doesn't matter based on what you found. but these connectors must be for something?

you're right. to be more accurate it's above the crank shaft more than above the pulley. it's "behind" the pulley. it's attached by one 10mm bolt and the electrical harness connector i believe. very easy. not sure if the crank pulley or power steering pump are in the way. at most - you'd have to remove the belt and crank pulley to replace it. make sure the connector and sensor are all clean before installing the new one. corrossion/dirt will render a new or used sensor useless in no time. sometimes cleaning up the old connector/sensor will fix it. for this one though, replacement is probably a better option.

you shouldn't have a problem getting stuff to work, just didn't know if you were looking for bolt and drop in parts. power seat might have a comuter with it, give it power and it may work as well if you get the entire track and don't mind messing with wiring.

you're in the right forum. nothing will swap for you easily. the radio has a different plug on it as well, nothing that can't be rewired of course. wheels won't swap, not much will without modification. the front seats may, seats are usually interchangeable with a little work but i've never heard of it being done with SVX internals. 46,000 miles, that's insane. probably a toasted transmission. have fun, another gary

i installed the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate while using the clutch alignment tool. i attached the throwout bearing to the clutch fork with new spring clips. i hope i'm not pulling this motor out again, i'll use my rationed number of 4 letter words for the month. i do not have any return spring - what is that? i know what it is, but don't recall seeing one. does the "hill holder" cable provide that function? i've heard of people removing those, i was plannign on the same. maybe i should install it for now to get the return spring function back.

i installed an engine in an 87.5 XT with all new clutch stuff. bolted new flywheel and clutch to the motor. new throwout bearing and clips. slid motor onto transmission. i installed the clutch cable and the pedal just goes to the floor and doesn't return? this was the first time i've reinstalled an engine in a manual transmission. is there any trick or just slide it onto the output shaft of the trans? somethign doesn't feel right i hope i'm not pulling the motor back out!

yetiman, you are resilient to say the least. hope you get it figured out. i'm having mad issues with mine as well.... it's 20 years old and i did a turbo to non-turbo conversion.

175 won't cause any issues. that light-load/heavy-load stuff is way overkill. you won't notice a difference assuming the 175's are decent tires, speed ratings, and all.

dylan, don't know if you're already seen it but here's a friend of mine that painted his car with wal-mart paint: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=paint+job EDIT - you were posting when i was. crack on the 87.5. good job figuring that out, where'd you get those diagrams?

now that's rediculous. the dealers don't discriminate, they try to ho$e EVERYONE! i'm not familiar with this part either, but the above statement about cleaning sounds fair to me. there are a number of sensors in older subaru's that are remedied by cleaning, i wouldn't be surprised if this one can suffer the same issues. that being said - the dealer will never clean something for you. that would take 7 minutes and not have enough labor and expense room to pad the charges. they'll replace it for $200. i bought a subaru that the owner took to the dealer and was quoted a $1,200 repair for the power steering pump at Annapolis Subaru in maryland. i offered to fix the car for the lady but she was so disgusted with it, she sold the car to me very cheap. i fixed the power steering for about $20 in parts. that's how the dealers work, they don't fix anything, they replace expensive parts!

i asked this same question within the past year and don't recall getting any feedback from anyone who's used Topline.

that someone else (me) agrees with what he said. sounds plausible. although i've found diagnosis and mechanical suggestions from "sellers" to be less than reliable. not always bad, they just don't know or transfer info well from the source (their mechanic). autozone or advanced auto parts (and others) will read the codes for free. if there's one close to the place you're picking it up from you could probalby have the codes pulled. they can check the codes in memory to verify. and yes, crank sensors are a dime a dozen. i picked one up for a couple dollars just in case. bought two subarus last year that both came 'pre-diagnosed'. both were wrong. one was a "small coolant leak, probably a hose". wrong - it was the head gasket which i fixed. the other was a major oil leak - a 4 dollar seal. i like those kinds better.

dylan - there are green and black connectors in the trunk by the ECU. i can post pictures. these are for read memory mode and diagnostic mode and clearing the memory - are those the same functions the connectors you posted serve? there are also two other harness plugs in the engine bay that i believe to be diagnostic but they are completely different. one is brown, forgot to take a picture of them last night. and HEY get to work, that still looks like an automatic pedal assembly!!! ha ha.

i believe the ECU is bad. it won't provide fuel (i have the fuel pump wired to a switch). it'll start that way, but runs bad. i disconnected the purge solenoid and AAV and the car runs the same (barely) and the ECu spits out no codes, i think it's bad. i don't have a vaccuum leak but things could be hooked up wrong. i only have the 4WD solenoid hooked up right now. i'm trying to figure out the routing of all the vacuum lines but it's not in the FSM. there's limited info, for once it's not complete on what i need!

i've used ultra grey stuff in the past with no problem. like svxpert said, use the right amount in the right places and you're fine. now i always use the anaerobic stuff, it's expensive but it is nice and is the "proper" stuff to use, no worries about using too much or getting in some passage you don't want.

the later models like you have typically get the stop leak treament from subaru. dealer says $2,400 - that's is BS. standard prices on this board are $1,200. they're trying to rip you off. the original mechanic is not to fault really...he's probably not familiar with the quirky head gaskets of the 2.5. on any other car just about i'd assume water pump, timing belt replacement as well just like he did. new tensioners...he treated you right. might want to let him know about the nasty 2.5 headgasket issues, maybe he'll offer you a deal since he missed it the first time? at least mention it to him, he'll know for the next 2.5 he sees and you'll save someone else from having the same thing happen.

got the XT running. it's an XT Turbo but i swapped a non turbo EA82 in it. now i finally got it started but it won't idle or run right. have to keep pressing the gas pedal down/up to keep it going or it sputters out. maybe the idle needs adjusted since i went from turbo to non-turbo intake and motor? could the turbo waste gate thingy or the turbo pressure thingy cause this, i don't believe so? pretty sure the vaccuum lines and air intake are all solid. car cuts out before i can play with the idle adjust screw though. any tricks to get this thing running at least? the AAV - auxiliary air valve - how does that thing work?