idosubaru

the green stuff doesn't look to promising but hard to tell where it's coming from. be sure you're not running low on oil or coolant. leaking isn't that big of a deal usually. the only real issue is running out or low. watch the TEMP gauge and make sure it doesn't creep up and make sure you don't run out of oil. doubtful you're leaking enough oil to run out. but check level. i'd guess your oil pump seals should be replaced for the oil leak. i think i'd try to clean everything up really good, replace the radiator hose, thermostat and check if it leaks after that. are you sure someone didn't spill antifreeze recently on the motor and that's just runoff? the coolant leak is the most concern unless you're really loosing significant amounts of oil. oil leaks typically don't blow up into catastrophic fluid loss, they can but coolant leaks are more likely to do that. keep it simple - replace the Thermostat and radiator hose and clamps first and monitor the leakages.

yes very easy to do. drop in, bolt in.

i wouldn't be surprised if replacing an o-ring and snugging up the fitting would sovle the leak. 50 cents for an oring and bleed the system and you're golden.

can you post a picture of where it's leaking and someone may be able to help you. sometimes leaks are very simple fixes....a fitting, connection or o-ring and you're done in 30 minutes...

must turn the caliper piston in, not push it. there's a $3 tool at any autoparts store, just a little block with nobs on each side. or there's a better tool at harborfreight.com for $40 that was on sale for $20 a few weeks ago. it will turn, hold in place and push the caliper back in easier than the socket tool. if you're desperate you can get it to work with pliers/needle nose but it'll take awhile.

I removed the EA82 steering pump and associated lines. The line fittings are identical, so after removing the pumps the only additional work needed is to swap the lines from the pumps to the bracket at the passengers side of the motor mount. Since the XT6 power steering pump requires the special "liquid gold" steering fluid i'm going to be swapping an XT6 steering rack. i'm ordering new impreza steering rack bushings for it. I imagine you could drain the EA82 steering rack and run the special fluid in it, but while i'm this far i want new steering rack bushings anyway, so the rack almost has to come out anyway. might as well throw an XT6 rack in there. I'll have the XT6 Pump, XT6 Steering Rack, New Impreza Steering rack bushings XT6 steering lines. We'll see how the electronics part of the swap goes, the power controller and computer for the P/S system.

you definitely do not have to. but you can. personal preference. i'd say depends on tools, what you're doing, etc. i pulled an EA82T yesterday, it's not that bad but i can have a lot done to the motor by the time it takes to pull it out. some people like working on the motor out of the car, and that is understandable. it is easier to work on out of the car. but the motors are so small and easy to work on that it is quicker to do it in the car. no doubt everything is easier with the engine out, i won't deny that. only trick to doing it in the car is having high quality, thick grease to hold the rocker arms in place while reinstalling the cams. maybe you can do one head with the engine in the car.....then pull the motor and do the other head. see which way you like best! ha ha....

i'm not ABS expert as mine hasn't posed and problems yet, but pretty sure you should be able to replace the part and do basic brake bleeding. agree that all that explanation was more jargon than anything. replace and bleed. someone offered the part for $75, install and bleed and this job should be less than $300 from an honest person in my oppinion.

doubt you need to tighten your crank pulley. if it's loose it'll come all the way off in no time. crank pulley is either on tight or will spin off in a matter of seconds when driving . no in between really. but the bellhousing access hole is under the intake hose. look right where the engine and transmission housing meet on top and you'll see the rubber plug. sometimes the rubber plug is missing and you'll see just the hole.

10w30 is fine, no reason to go heavier.

i agree, the EA82 is so easy to work on with the engine in the car that unless i was replacing the clutch i would do the head gaskets and everything else with the motor in the car. by the time you pull the engine out, i could probably already have the timing belts, cams and heads off. if you decide to pull the motor, you can unbolt the intake manifold and hold it up and out of the way and just pull the long block out without disconnecting the engine wiring harness, hoses and throttle cables. the A/C and power steering can both swing out of the way (p/s to the left and a/c to the right) without disconnecting anything. if you had to unbolt the lines for the a/c you could bolt it back on and recharge it yourself. not ideal but it does work, i've done it for friends that are too cheap or lazy to do it right. you can also buy a vacuum puller from harbor freight for 10 bucks and pull a vacuum on it first. but, no need for all of that since you can swing it out of the way. whatever you do, be sure to spray liquid wrench or PB blaster (do not use WD40) on every timing cover bolt, exhaust bolt/nut, and intake bolt, and the radiator and fan bolts if they're rusty. hit all of these a couple of times a few days before the job and you'll make your job easier, these bolts/nuts like to take as much time as the actual job if they're seized. the hardest part of this job is proper clean up. clean up the heads, clean up the block and cleaning the head bolt holes. very important and very time consuming. are the headgaskets bad? 120,000 is low mileage for an EA82 to blow a head gasket. now if it was a turbo i would'nt be as surprised.

compelte tune up would be a great idea for a car sitting that long. sounds like you're on your way. check the turbo for any leaks of the coolant/oil lines.

if it never gets hot there is no need for the fan to come on, the temp will never get hot enough to trigger the sensor.

i don't know anything about new cars because i don't buy them but i don't know that everyone's experience with saturn is as good as yours was. or if every dealer/regional rep would be as responsive. i've seen people on here get their engines replaced and have good response/service but he's not getting the same treatment. experiences aren't necessarily nationwide. i'm impressed at the letters and contact as well, that's craziness.

bryan, no worries then, you're probably right. not that hard to loose a bolt or even crack the timing covers. the older/more brittle they get the worse that tends to be, yours being so new i wouldn't expect it but definitely not uncommon still.

the engine could run okay after replacing pistons and rings, but there is risk involved and you don't by a new car to "take chances", that's what used cars are fo. you are certainly right to demand a new engine. too much money and expectation of quality and reliability at stake to open it up and replace it. if you wanted a car that needed work, money and time put into it you could have bought one of those. you paid for quality, service and warranty and it's about time they stood up to that. i've seen other posts on this board where members have had their engines replaced. might want to see what kind of problems they had to get to that point. i'd hate to see the engine experience severe damage to the point it is certainly ruined and they have to replace the engine....before the pistons arrived. i think that's what would happen to mine if i had to drive it while waiting for the pistons to arrive, i just know my "luck". it would probably happen on a backroad, by myself with noone around. bottom line, i've seen others have engines replaced, i'd look to have it replaced as well.

looks like the timing cover bolts. there are alot of them and most older subaru's are missing at least one. a fair number of people on the older generation forum (including myself) are running without ANY timing covers, so i'd say you don't have anything to worry about by missing a bolt or two. if you don't like it, source a known good used part and have it replaced next time you have the timing belts, water pump or oil pump seals addressed (if that ever comes to pass that is...). the zip tie should work great actually. or if the threads are still in it and good get a bolt for it. the only issue is anything loose that has enough play to run into the belts or radiator fans, but that's ALOT of play so you won't have that problem. good luck and have fun, gary

DUDE !!!! send some of those officers to the east coast. these guys do NOTHING, but act like their doing something. crime, what's that? revenue generation, that's what they do. not to fault them, it's dictated by the higher ups, gov, $, etc. but the system definitely doesn't work like the average citizen would like...or most expect. AWESOME you got the car back. that rocks. sucks on the clutch, but probably easier to fix than bad body damage. did they hack the steering column up in wiring it?

yes advance or others will pull the codes for free. being ignition related wouldn't surprise me and a tune up like you're doing is a good start. very straight forward and easy job. be sure you're getting NGK plugs and they are properly gapped for your car before you install. if they are from the dealer they will be NGK's, but you can get the same NGK plugs at any autoparts store as well. use OEM wires only (which you are). take care in seating the wires on the spark plugs, make sure they are fully seated, feel for the "click" when they seat, that's the definitive sound/feel that makes you sleep better. use anti-seize on the spark plug threads (available at any auto parts store) and there's also a grease for using on the spark plug wires so they aren't ruined next time you have to pull them out (if ever again!) good luck and have fun, gg

i think money/time well spent would be on an aftermarket trans cooler. at 110,000 miles i think you have a very good chance of not having any issue leaving the old seal in place. and the car isn't that old either, another bonus. still good to make sure the torque converter is seated properly, it can come out some when you pull the engine. probably didn't, but on older cars they stick right to the flexplate sometimes. just make sure you don't use the engine to trans bolts to push the torque converter in and you're fine. good luck and have fun.

i think it's just a matter of things expanding and seizing internally. let it cool down and it'll free up. i had the same thing happen to my first subaru a 1988 Subaru XT 4 cylinder. didn't know anything about cars, it overheated and i kept driving it....had to down shift from 5th to 4th as it lost power, then to 3rd, then 2nd then eventually it just stopped and wouldn't turn over. came back the next day and it fired right up and i drove it for another 2 years after that without issue, after i replaced the water pump of course. ended it's life with coolant loss issues...probably head gaskets but who knows. now that i work on all my own stuff i probably wouldn't believe that story if someone told me.

you could get the part numbers off of that website. if you know someone in the states, have them buy the parts and mail them to you. i've done it to new zealand and norway.

these guys have EA82 front rebuild kits for $3 and $8. can't beat that. https://www.rockauto.com/ no XT6 kits though, not that anyone else cares!!!!

there are rebuild kits out there, i found one for less than $10 a couple years ago for my XT6 front calipers but have not been able to find another set. well worth it and easy to do. i can't recall where i picked that kit up. wish i would have bought a few sets. for brake fluid, i find it a good idea to buy more than i think i need. for how cheap it is, i'd hate to spill a bottle or need more than i think and not finish the job.

it's not terribly difficult to replace, at least inspect for any leakage if you don't want to replace it. how many miles on the car? if you're up around 200,000 then i'd think about replacing it. thing is, if it did start leaking you'd be pulling the motor again to replace it. probably more likely for an old seal to leak than a new one. i've always replaced them but also can say that leaking torque converter seals aren't very common. installing the torque converter can be tricky, do a search here and you'll see plenty of threads about people not being able to get them to seat. the last 1/4" is difficult to seat and if you don't do it or don't notice, you'll break internal parts of the transmission when you bolt the engine back up. so be prepared to pay close attention if you pull the torque converter out. on the older 4EAT's the torque converter has a ring seal on the shaft, might end up needing one of those as well if you pull it out. shaft has a groove that the ring seal fits into. this is a dealer only part for sure. good luck.