idosubaru

shawn, jeep guys do use XT6 pumps. i'm going to be installing one in my XT Turbo. the jeep guys run them continuously as far as i know. i'm sure some have elaborate set-ups but for the most part they slap them in and go with constant duty cycle. i plan on going with a complete XT6 swap - power steering rack into my XT Turbo. the two issues are the speed sensor and steering column sensor (if you're trying to get the XT6 stock power steering computer to work with it), which i am trying to do. i already tested the steering column sensor and the system works without having that. if you sit at zero miles per hour for more than a couple seconds the steering pump will not operate. normally it will kick in again if you turn the steering wheel (the sensor turns the pump on). but without the sensor you won't have power steering if you stay below a certain speed...like 5-15 mph for more than a few seconds. i can live with that. or...if the column is easy enough to swap maybe i'll go that route. haven't had time to research the speed sensor, but i'd like to get that to work. if there's a way to get a speed signal to the P/S system i think it will work perfectly. if not i don't think the computer will ever cycle the pump on because it thinks you're not "moving". i have a couple XT6 parts cars and plan on stripping the wiring out and seeing how terrible the computer wiring is for the complete power steering swap. if i can do it, fine. if not i'll look to alternate methods. with all the extra parts i have i may try continuous running of the pump and resort to the computer if i have significant failure of the brushes or pump. i may be able to devise my own simple control too... what was your plans on controlling it?

be sure the steering wheel isn't sticking in the lock possition. if the steering wheel is locked (can't turn it much), then this is most likely the issue. yank the steering wheel very hard while trying to turn the key. try it multiple times right and left.

i wouldn't use super glue for engine purposes. i'm not sure why the superglue was needed. if it was only to hold the reinforced o-ring in place, the best solution for that is small dabs of high quality grease or engine assembly lube. any o-ring should be lubed with oil or grease before installation anyway, so best to cover it in grease, install and then put a small dab on top of it to hold it in place. if the issue is the cam case sealant, the proper way to avoid this is to use anaerobic sealant. if you use anaerobic sealant on the cam cases, that would prevent any glob issues as it washes away and disolves in the oil which is why it is recommended in the first place.

just a suggestion and something to look out for if you have more issues. doubtful it's a problem, but i've seen it before.

whatever you do, don't use a freaking bolt extractor, easy-out, those things SUCK. they break all the time and are even harder to get out if they're in deep. intake bolts suck really bad, i've had a ton of these break off. soak them with liquid wrench of PB Blaster (WD40 is not a good alternative). tap them with a hammer (to help break down some of the corrosion internally) and liberally spray them down for a number of days before attempting to remove them. they can be a real bear if you try to get them out without any preparation (even after that they can suck). here is the sure fire way to get it out. the best option i've found is to partially thread a nut onto the stud or lay it ontop of the stud and weld it to the stud. then use your wrench (after lots of penetrating oil). a few minutes of prep with spraying penetrant mentioned above and a very simple weld can save hours of wrestling with these things in alternate ways. if you can't weld, have someone do it for you. if you don't know anyone, find someone. this takes literally like 3 minutes to do and has worked every time. even better is that this method is the quickest and easiest that i've tried. take it from me and don't do anything but the above method. i've done this dozens of times and multiple different ways. there are other methods that may work, but can make your day painfully long too.

the short answer is that a distributor can test fine but still cause the car not to start. there is no definitive way to test a distributor, usually you can, but there are times when you can't (i've had it happen twice). long answer follows: i've had a distributor generate spark but not work properly. less than a month ago there was a thread about this and we went through all this before so if you're interested in that discussion do a search. mostly about the problem i'm about to talk about being "impossible". but to be quick i've had two distributors fail in different subaru's that would generate spark, even pass the FSM tests but still the car didnt' start. couldn't resolve the problem until i finally swapped the distributors and it started. both times it didn't fail while i was driving, i had taken the car off the road for a couple weeks/months for repair or swaps and the previously fine running vehicle and distributor failed to start the car. my guess is the crank angle sensor gets corroded or out of alignment somehow. that being said, there was no proper (practical) way to diagnose mine. i'm sure with some crazy computer/oscilloscope set up it would have shown up, but who's going to go through all that?

awesome, good to hear. if you're having multiple sensor issues, it is a good idea to check the wiring connector that plugs into the sensor. remove it and look at the contacts in the harness and the contacts on the sensor. corrossion can easily cause the sensors to have issues, particularly intermittent issues depending on the connectivity of the corroded connection. this is similar to a short and can generate heat as well. most likely the sensors went bad, but good to check the above scenario because new sensors will only temporarily fix the problem unless the harness was cleaned prior to installing the new sensor. replacing the sensor, in a very rough way, removes "half" of the corrossion while the remaining half stays in the connector and contaminates the new sensor sometime down the road.

every year? most states don't pay taxes after the initial purchase that i'm aware of. or are you speaking of insurance. no matter really...what options does it have, if you can provide specifics that the SE has that your LE doesn't, maybe they have to give? at least the insurance company should be able to make an adjustment if you provide them with proof it doesn't have those options. you're insuring something that isn't present there has to be a process for resolving that. i'd present the dealer and the salesman the scenario and see what they say. and write a letter to SOA. someone from http://www.xt6.net (subaru XT6 website) just wrote a letter to SOA and received a quick response. that is crazy, good luck with it.

this requires having a timing belt installed. i wouldn't do it this way, but it could work if the timing belt holds. i've had them rip and/or slip over the teeth on the cam. not ideal for an interference engine, though it's doubtful it would hurt anything i'm not keen on all that stress on the timing components maybe that's just a personal issue. on a manual trans you can put the car in gear and that will keep the motor from turning over (hopefully). it'll start moving if the bolts don't give. i use a socket extension, i don't trust a screwdriver not to break, but i don't know the quality of my screwdrivers! but i only do this to loosen the crank pulley bolt not the cam bolts.

definitely not for water/oil pump. remove those for the cam seals only yes, but i would refrain from the strap method and others... works sometimes, not others. if you do try it and it's not coming, don't force it. the best method i know of - if you remove the valve covers (really easy) there's a square notch on the camshaft that you can get a wrench around to keep the camshaft from spinning. this is the least risky method in my oppinion. i've damaged cam sprockets, cap carrier caps and timing covers trying other methods before i knew about the cam having the notched area on it. for some reason those cam sprocket bolts can be very hard to get off, never had any problems with older subaru's (which i've done more of), only the 2.2 liter motors. yes, use it. i would definitely install the new one now, it will be fine. forget which type you have, but i would extend/retract it a couple times to free it up and get any internal grease spread around. others here will be more certain, but 69 is too light in my oppinion. you're in luck though because the crank is iron so crank away, you won't strip the threads like in the rest of the block that's aluminum. i use a 1/2" drive and a 3 foot breaker bar and put alot of stank on it. i don't use a torque wrench here, i just crank the doodads out of it. like i said, it's iron and it won't strip...at least the 50 or so times i've done it it hasn't stripped. you don't want the crank pulley coming loose, be sure it's tight and then check it again before you start the car.

you can run without a thermostat but that's a band aid and not a permanent fix. is there any coolant loss? if you drive the car for awhile (can you do that without it overheating), does it loose any coolant? if there's coolant in the system and the overflow tank is bubbling then it could easily be a headgasket. if it's just straight water in there, then it's possible it's boiling and not really air bubbling. i'd do a compression test as it only takes a couple minutes.

i looked for the link as i used to have it, but erased it once i found this: http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm they charge 4 bucks to clean and 5 bucks without any cores or something like that. super cheap. taking them apart is time consuming.

why not? i like them and am familiar from the dozen or so XT6's i've owned. i have spare parts and keeping the sruts clean and rust free i've never had one fail. thanks guys. i'll use XT6 control arms that way it's the same as my XT6's.

on the XT6 i unbolt the top 3 strut mounting bolts and that gives it enough room to get the axle out. it's tight, but that's the easiest for me as those 3 bolts are never rusted and a pain to get off like the suspension bolts can be.

awesome, that's what i wanted to hear!

with all the noise and "shaking" i think i'd stay away from that one myself. unless it was a smoking deal and i didn't mind throwing another engine in it if something did go wrong.

Is the highest gear ratio (5th gear) still the same between the two or is one geared different than the other? (i have a 1987.5 XT Turbo FT4WD trans and 1987 PT4WD trans) is the PT4WD a 3.7 diff ratio? can the PT4WD lock the center diff?

what do you mean by "shot". read through my multiple posts about CV's, i routinely drive thousands and thousands of miles with broken CV boots and clicking joints. no big deal. 50,000 miles on fronts and 100,000 miles on rear broken boots no problems. adding grease in there will quiet them down. i never bother doing a stricktly axle job, complete waste of my time. i'll wait until i have something else semi-axle related before i replace them. if they are actually broke, get some used ones from someone on the board with broken boots and install them and run them forever. stay out of the sand and if they start clicking while driving straight then squirt some grease in them and think about replacing them.

it's not like the 4WD won't come out of 4WD is it? (like a locked diff soob sort of, bucking and hoping?). had that happen to my friends explorer. ended up being the wiring harness under the vehicle. drivers side about midway back. it just hangs there well exposed and the insulation was worn through (on a 5 or so year old vehicle) and shorting out. wouldn't come out of 4WD. ball joint axle can probably figure it out by jacking it up and checking it. if yo'ure striking out, check the ujoints on the driveshaft. usually best to drop it, but sometimes you can tell by looking/yanking on it.

awesome thanks, none were in the pictures i saw so i was confused. if the parts are off the XT6 and ready to rock and roll can i get this done in a day? rear looks really simple, front looks fairly straight forward. forgot one question - will the XT6 axles work with a XT Turbo FT4WD trans? what about a PT4WD trans? thanks!

pat, i have XT6 parts cars that have everything you need. costs will be high. i've put together complete XT6 engine kits for two NZ residents. it wasn't easy and it wasn't cheap, but it is doable. these will not be light and shipping won't be cheap. fees everywhere (paypal fees, international fees, currency conversion charges, shipping, insurance, customs). if you're interested and aren't in an immediately hurry i can help. email or PM me and we'll talk. or i'll trade you everything straight up for plane tickets to NZ for the wife and i! last year was a toss up...Hawaii or NZ, we chose Hawaii but still want to visit NZ! i think these parts places should consider a plane ticket as commission for all the parts i've sent that way. here's a pic of the NZ'ers and their Subaru goodies i sent: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3736&highlight=gary (too big to post here) have fun and good luck gettin it on the road. gary

cool, the block parts are all interchangeable (rings and bearings) between EA82 and EA82T. like i said, the turbo bearings are wider which i determined from some old threads. either will work but it was said the wider ones would be better, which is why they were in the turbo's. good luck, gary

head gaskets are not issues on '02 and newer 2.5 soobs. you may see piston slap and torque bind, but that doesn't mean every subaru gets it. this forum is like the emergency room...people that need help come here, but that doesn't mean everyone in the world is in critical condition. for each technical expert here, there's plenty more transients that drop by for quick fixes and information. i have yet to work on or be in a 2.5 myself with any noises, they've all been smooth as silk and ran great. haven't been in many, but a good track record (for me, less work to do on my friends/relatives cars!!!) i have an OBS and it rocks. 2.2 all the way baby. no head gaskets, no piston slap.

okay i found the kit "out west" i was talking about: http://www.rpmrons.com/Subarukits1.html $280 for complete kit - rings, bearings, gasket set. not my choice but i put the info out there and let you decide what you want. some companies actually have OEM suppliers of parts, so while the box of bearings may say "Federal Mogul" (that's a random example, i don't recall the exact brand), the parts inside the box were actually ADC or whatever the OEM supplier was for the bearings. i recall someone in an earlier thread buying bearings and noticing the same name on the old bearings and the new ones out of the box with some other brand name on it. (which made me wonder, how can you see letters on old bearings, but i guess i'll find out when i take mine apart!)

for what an EA82? i recently priced some of this stuff for the EA82: check out www.1stsubaruparts.com and also Jamie (from the usmb here), she's a Subaru OEM dealer and has great prices too, forget her website though. typing in "EA82 rebuild" or something like that in Yahoo! gave some company out west that supplies "re-ring" kits that seemed okay in price, but i'm not going to buy from them so i didn't write down the info. www.thepartsbin.com main bearings $29, rod bearings $35, piston rings $105, gasket set $100 in an old thread i read this morning they mentioned that some of the partsbin parts were OEM, but i don't recall if it was the bearings or rings. www.rockauto.com main bearings $32, rod bearings $23, piston rings $47, gasket set $222 www.ramperformance.com i'm going to go with these guys. i've met them and seen their work, great guys and they know subaru's. mains and rods run about $38 a set from them, not sure what kind of deal they'd give for the entire set (rings, bearings, etc) but they do sell kits. pretty competitive and really nice guys...and they use all their parts in airplanes, so i'm not too worried about quality. be careful with rock auto, i've seen a number of incorrect parts listings there but i don't have enough experience with engine internals to tell if there are inconsistencies with those. also be advised, the turbo motors have different bearings (i think rod...but maybe it was main bearings). i read about it on this site, but left the links at work so you'll have to do a search. i think i typed "engine rebuild" or something like that on my search this morning. the turbo bearings are slightly wider and could be used for NA applications as well, i'll look into this more when i get closer to doing my full rebuild. hope this helps, sorry to be so long winded but looking into the same thing and thought some of this may help.