idosubaru

i'll start a thread, this will be my first complete rebuild so i'll need help. have almost everything i need except time!

definitely, valve job, valve stem seals and new headgaskets can do wonders for the running of the motor. do a compression and leak down test if you can and let us know what the numbers are. the blocks are robust, the head work you speak of can do wonders for bringing them back to life. if you're worried about compression and suspect the bearings are good (since the motor runs fine right) you can re-ring the pistons as an option as well. i haven't done that, but will need to when i build my new EA82 shortly. some good information on here if you're interested in that option. for instance, the pistons are removable without splitting the block. there's some info on this site detailing how to do it. i have to split the block since it doesn't have a crank in it, so doesn't matter to me. price the main and rod bearings and piston rings and see if that cost/labor is something you want to do. if not, just do a head job. head job is really easy and super easy to do in the car. i've done a couple EA82's and a bunch of 6 cylinder XT6 head gaskets in the car, you can be done in a day if you have a set of heads ready to roll. since i'm building an EA82 i've priced parts for it, i can post them later if you're interested and maybe we can compile the best prices. haven't found a good source for rings yet, the main and rod bearings seem to run 30-50 bucks a set, not bad at all. doing the work is the frightening part!

if you have lots of chain, just wrap it around the bottom of the cam carriers/valve cover area. or around the intake manifold. or use the alternator bracket. the XT6 has two brackets on it that are perfect (and possible there for that reason??) for this. one is connected to the alternator mounting bolt, the other resides on top of the passengers side head. big eye brackets that you can pass a hook or other attachment through. they tend to bend easily but work fine for that. not sure on the EA82, have'nt messed with those as much.

welcome Ray, i remember you from the yahoo XT6 groups years ago. funny how we see each other again. glad it's still chugging along for you, that's awesome! we've moved on to bigger and better things than yahoo, we have www.xt6.net now so check over there if you have any ER27 specific questions. have fun, Gary Gross maryland

that was a joke. i was comparing that long, drawn out process to swapping the trunk, ignition and lock cylinders instead of just getting a new key cut. it's the looooong way around, but it will work. an analogy of sorts.

find another EA82 in good shape and swap. no worries about making sure you find the leaks and fix them and can't imagine it would be too hard to find one with fewer miles. or reseal the motor, new head gaskets, seals, etc. why was the motor out of the car to begin with?

paul, what exactly are you looking for? gary

personel preference only. it is not necessary to remove the radiator for timing belt or engine removal. for me, i feel there's as much chance of damaging it trying to remove, lay around and install as there is to do the timing belt and engine removal. but if i'm doing the belts, i'm doing the water pump and thermostat too so breaking the coolant system open isn't why i woudln't remove the radiator. it's a step that's not at all necessary. personal preference. some people like the room, i've never needed it or ruined a radiator. now if you're not familiar with pulling an engine or feel you're on the liberal side of being careful then you might want to remove it so you don't run the engine into it. otherwise, i use a lift just fine. remove engine, disengage from trans, pull it straight up until it clears everything and roll it out, and you're done.

this post is from 2004......ha ha. someone used the search function, woo hoo! your location says "international" so it's kind of hard to say what a good price would be. $200-$300 for both axles i'd say. low is good, high is well..high. $150 seems to be the going rate for axle replacement in the areas i've lived in (close to the city).

that's normal. if you have the owners manual, read it and it will tell you. might want to pick one up if you don't have one.

you can, but you can cut a key much quicker than swapping all those parts. i'd much rather make one phone call, one stop at the dealer or read 5 numbers than doing all that work. swapping ignition is a pain, requires a good deal of work and drilling out the bolt (right angle drill helps sometimes with this). if you do that, you won't have a key for the rear seat lock. you could drain the trans oil, measure how much is in there to see how much you need to replace. then have it analyzed at a chemistry lab to see what kind of oil is in there to determine what kind you should use. or you can ask someone who knows or look it up in a book, much easier that way.

read the keycode off one of the lock cylinders in the door (really easy to do) and they can cut you a new key from that. remove two screws, pop the interior door trim panel off and you can see the lock cylinder. takes like a screwdriver to get it out, that's about it as far as i can remember. was really easy to remove. if you try hard enough you might even be able to see the 4 or 5 digit code without removing it. either way, that code is all you need. in the states, the dealer usually enters the VIN and key code with the sale of every car (at least that's how they used to do it back then). unless the salesman was lazy and didn't enter that in, a phone call to the dealer can often get you the key code with just the VIN number. i've done that on a number of occassions. might be different since you're in another country, but i'd call that's the easiest solution.

wagon rears will work fine for sure. don't know about fronts, but i'd guess they would.

i'm out of state but pretty sure i have an EA82 air compressor lying around somewhere. almost positive their the same. remind me next week and i'll have a look to see if i can find the EA82 compressor.

if you're worried about snow, get snow tires they are excellent. i'd get them and go from there if you want "more". they should treat you quite well though. EA82T, good power (easy to modify for good gains), gas mileage and the 4WD yo'ure looking for. you can get a dual range if you'd like that option. the XT6 has 6 cylinders and 4 wheel drive. has the center diff lock button, excellent in the snow. 145 horsepower, alot more than the EA81 and EA82's, center diff lock (awesome offroad and in the snow), and gets 26-28 mpg on the highway! excellent stats for a 6 cylinder and the reliability of the EA82 since it's based on the same design (same pistons, rods, bearings, valves, etc). the automatic XT6 even gets 28 mpg (all highway). you want to be able to lock front to rear (center diff). you can install a switch on any automatic, so any automatic 4EAT could be installed with a switch to lock the rear transfer clutch, giving you a "locked" 4WD front to rear. i have that with rear LSD on my automatic XT6 and it rocks in the snow. add snow tires and you're golden. there's never a substitute for safe driving in the snow...except maybe tracks!

the same can be said of brakes, changing your own tires, and other car repairs. all are safety concerns. for windshields, most people shouldn't, i won't do it and it's great to have you around knowing the details and difficulty of this job. but there are skilled people out there that can do the job right. we need you to post the trickery of this task to sway those that shouldn't! i like reading through these discussions to learn the process and how people do it....BBQ grill and sand...awesome!!

any chance the tires don't match....like different size? very weird to keep going through that. i'd install an aftermarket transmission cooler. very easy and very cheap, i do it to all of my automatics. does the boat have a 8 inch thick cast iron hull?

Auto AWD XT6 6 (6 cylinder) 28mpg Manual AWD XT6 25/26 mpg those are highway numbers. 21-23 city driving. search the older generation forum for "mileage" and you'll get lots of old threads like this, check 'em out. i just did! if you want straight gas mileage you can't beat the late 80's/early 90's FWD EA82's. i had a 1988 or 89 XT FWD Manual Trans in the early 90's that would get 40+ mpg on all highway driving. i think justy's can work their way up to 45, saw a guy said he got 46 and change in his.

thanks! i'll call him and tell him not to guy another car until i get a chance to look at it.

a guy at work has a 1993 legacy and the door won't unlock. feels like it's stuck, so i'm guessing linkages and not the lock cylinder? ignition, trunk other doors work fine. anyone know what to look for? i've seen all the plastic fittings and arms in there on my subaru's and don't know what to look for. he's thinking of buying another car...so reply quick!

that's hysterical if it's true. those manuals are usually overboard, but so are recommendations i see here on the board (and have given!!!!), but doesn't make it all bad!

i was quoted $220 for a new windshield and i think others at http://www.xt6.net got it done for $177 from Safelite maybe? i don't know, they had a thread over there about pricing, was under 200.

5 spoke! if you wanted 10 spoke, don't meet me tonight!

subaru alternators are super easy. get a box of sockets/wrenches and go to town.

sometimes it's beneficial to unbolt the intake from the block, hold the intake up enough to pull block and drop another in and yo'ure done. two new intake manifolds later and you didn't have to disconnect the throttle cable, disconnect hoses, wires, grounds, sensors, etc. probably works out to about the same either way, i've done it both ways.