idosubaru

i tried sifting through all of this but see no response to who was at fault in this accident. you or the other person? details of the accident make a difference. the insurance company will always stall and have nothing to loose to sit on their rump and ignore you. if you had an attorney you'd be considered a possible liability to them and they would move much faster. know any lawyers? can you provide details of the accident? someone on here may be a lawyer or know one that can provide a simple letter to the insurance company. certified mail, all that jazz. you are best served to choose you own courses as well, trying every angle you can. whatever leads they give you would not be my highest priority. they may require some statements of value and i would persue those courses like you are now...but i also feel they are well versed in this area and can recount much of what you come up with. basically you are playing into their hand, by their rules. i'd persue other angles as well. look forward to seeing your hatch back (ha ha).

for these redrive systems, maybe there are other vendors or fabricators that could design what you guys are looking for that isn't intended for flying ($$$$). there are industrial, farm and other gear driven applications that might be more economical. has to be someone out there that can make something like this for the trail. on to more boring and off topicing stuff air isn't "deflected" by the curvature of the blade. it locally speeds up across the blade (or wing - cross section of a wing and propellor are similar) creating a pressure difference between the front and back (or top and bottom of a wing) which creates the thrust (or lift). if it were only displaced or redirected so to speak it wouldn't do anything. this is cool ....imagine squeezing your garden hose to make it come out faster (air and water are both fluids to engineers). picture the "humps" in the wing of an airplace (similar design to a propellor) as your finger on the garden hose. at the very tip of the wing you're not really pressing the hose much. then towards the middle "the hump" is where you're pressing hard and the water is coming out much faster. picture an imaginary wall 1 foot above the wing, the air is confined between the wing and this wall as it travels front to back speeding up just like your garden hose as you squeeze it. as velocity increases pressure must decrease (physics, etc). so the velocity increases and pressure decreases on the top. but the bottom of the wing is flat so the pressure remains about the same....so the pressure decrease on the top means the bottom is at a higher pressure and that creates lift. that simple (well, not really) principle is what lifts airplanes weighing in at 100's of thousands of pounds. crazy huh? in terms of compressing the air into a smaller area yes, but in terms of compressing the density i don't think that has much impact in terms of drag on these applications. in this instance drag is typically regarded as a function of the boundary layer seperation which does increase with increasing density (compressibility so to speak), but that is one of a number of factors in the Reynolds number which is the value of interest in most aerodynamic analysis. i would guess props are designed for limited boundary layer separation and any that did occur would be isolated to the tip (highest localized speeds).

can you take a picture of that ER27 and post it here? that is crazy.

alot depends on the accident. if the other person is at fault then the insurance company is trying to low ball you. a guy i worked with (my manager) had his old VW wrecked bad, but it was the other persons fault. he grappled with them and said he'd settle for nothing less than what he had before this person totalled his car. he wasn't looking for anything more, but wanted what he had, the accident wasn't his fault. they fixed it...and it was alot of money, considering how old the car was (80's). if the accident wasn't your fault it'll be more a much more annoying process. try ebay/autotrader, some areas will allow ebay sales to dictate taxes on used/wrecked vehicles instead of the "value" they use.

i've heard of some board members getting help from Subaru on fixing these issues past warranty mileage. 1999 seems older and i doubt it, but i'd plug around here and see if that's an option.

haa ha, more fun posts about this for me to get called 'incompetent' and other childish names. here's the bottom line ms dickens: coolant in the exhaust does not mean cracked block period. it can, but doesn't exclude other more common things. i've replaced with my own hands 6 blown headgaskets. drove to work today in one with 150,000 miles on it.

if you wanted OEM, order from one of the online subaru places. XT6 radiators run 600 or more from dealers. i've gotten new OEM XT6 radiators for $300 (shipping included). the subaru power steering systems seem robust and reliable, i wouldn't mess with it. is the additional possibility of failure associated with that worth the possible benefits? exposed lines and clamps don't sound appealing on the oil lines, but i'm being a bit idealistic i admit. i would want to know if there is a loss of volume/pressure available to the motor associated with a cooler? if the NA and turbo oil pumps are identical then i would assume they are designed for that and it's not an issue. if not identical i'd look to swap if possible. if it's a turbo i would be looking for an engine oil cooler somewhere.

up to 95 had dual port exhaust. after that 2.2's have single port exhaust. 95 has EGR compatible stuff that 94 and earlier doesn't have, making it a little easier compared to other years. anyone know what years have 2 and 3 connectors? 97,98,99 2.2's all have 2 or 3 connectors?

the newer head gaskets were installed in post 2001 or 2002 subaru's so for the years you're looking at you should be fine. i've worked on a few of these later year subaru's and none have seen issue.

the 1.8 liter pulleys can be found for reasonable prices (http://www.thepartsbin.com i've ordered from before). the XT6 2.7 liter pulleys are HIGH. follow the directions above and you won't have any problems. i can do it in a matter of minutes, took about one time to "get it down". now i've done a few cars already and have some extra sets lying around for next time. very easy. on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the hardest i'd rate this a 1. the only tricky part is getting the nail in and the plate up enough to get the needle in but not too far to deface the bearing, but not that hard at all. less is more for that part.

how about leave the 99 intake manifold and bolt it to the 98 2.2? are the engine harnesses different between 98 and 99's? i can't recall how many connectors were on the 97 i pulled. thanks again!

said the 99 was a 2 connector engine harness and the earlier ones were 3. im' at work or i'd go look at one. forgot to mention that...... i'm sure someone knows/recalls which ones have 2 or 3 connectors? i thought they were plug and play after 1994? thanks!

crawl under the car to check for two things: one - grab the driveshaft (going from transmission to rear differential) and shake it around. excessive play will point to a bad ujoint. the ujoints can get bad and seize and still pass this test though occassionally so that doesn't necessarily rule it out, but a bad one typically will show by the grab and shake test. while yo'ure there (under the car) grab the rear diff and shake it as well, use the axles if you'd like. if it wobbles excessively the bearing above it is bad and the diff will clunk around while driving, shifting, etc. above the diff is a 17 mm bolt with a 22mm nut on the other side. this passes right trhough the rear diff carrier and bushing. these bushings go bad....most are 20 years old by now. clank clank is the result. with a flashlight and careful inspection you can see cracks in it or completely missing.

EGADS HOTDOG!!!! i thought for sure that since i didn't hear from you on the way back you made it okay. sorry about that! hope you at least made it close to home? i thought about calling....bad gary....then i figured you would have called if you had any problems. sorry to hear that hotdog. glad we didn't try pulling my car with yours...that might have done it in quick and dirty!! did you make it home or what?

will a 97 or 98 2.2 (i have each) swap into a 99? did they remove the EGR system on the later models? a mechanic is telling me this is impossible. i did some searches but can't find specifics except on this issue.

new bushings typically stiffen the steering up and help alot. there have been a couple threads in the past year/few months at xt6.net about that issue. impreza steering bushings fit the XT6 steering rack, that's why kevin and others are using in theirs. steering pump should be cake to find. no EA82's around here that i know of, but get someone that knows a yard with EA82's and order one from them. they'll ship 'em.

yup. doubt that's the cause, but still a good idea to replace. be sure to verify the gap is correct, was that done last time the plugs were changed?

there are thousands of used cars across the country at yards that will mail this part to you. find a PA, CO, WV, NY yard that has a zillion subaru's and they'll mail it to you for a couple dollars. they're more than willing to mail parts, done it plenty of times. or splice like mentioned earlier. if you're still having issues, posting a picture sometimes helps if you can do that. a picture is worth a thousand words and noone feels like typing or reading that much!

make sure your battery cables/connections are tight (you should not be able to move/twist it by hand) and clean. this can shorten battery life significantly.

O2 sensors don't typically cause driveability issues that early, more info later. are the spark plugs NGK and the ignition wires OEM Subaru wires? if not, they should be and i'd start there. particularly the wires. most aftermarket wires won't work well with the newer Subaru's (2.2 and 2.5 liter engines). the O2 isn't hard to replace, just hard to get to sometimes. best to crawl under and have a look. i saw the one on the 2.2 liter i just pulled last week, didn't look hard at all. hopefully someone will post a wrench size for you. hit it good with penetrating oil (use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, not WD40 as they are better products for this). spray it down good where it threads into the exhaust a day before and the day of to help it break loose. these are the three wire type O2 sensors. the plug is in the engine bay, follow the wire UP until you see the connector. pop the hood and disconnect it. then remove the O2 and install the new one and connect it. that's it, it just unscrews from the exhaust. access is the only issue, but it's usually not too bad, just annoying getting on the ground and under the car. i typically pop one side of the car or one front tire up high by driving up on a curb or something else elevated. approach any curb nearly head on with the tires, you want the tread to ride up on the curb (slooowly), not the side wall. side walls of tires are weak. i've done it a zillion times. this is much easier than getting out a jack and feels alot better too when you crawl under there. on a scale of 1 (easy) to 10 (hard) this job is a 1. you could try swapping out the coil pack as well. pick up a used one for a couple bucks and give it a try to see if your problem goes away.

that should be fine, i was thinking she might be running that really light stuff.

try a little heavier weight oil if she's using the really thin snyth's now. if it's is an HLA engine change the oil often (relatively speaking of course).

i knew (know??) nothing about welding and did it myself a couple days after buying a welder too. it is possible. but it is also a pain. i think the cheapest alternative would be to buy a good used exhaust (post a in the Wanted to Buy Forum here on this site). You can probably get one for $100 or less. i've sold exhaust parts before, that's the cheapest and easiest route in my oppinion. treat/paint the rust with high heat rust proof quality paint to at least mitigate any existing rust. you should also be able to get this job done for $200 or less at an honest local muffler shop for a generic off the shelf muffler and new pipe from the cat back. $50 in parts and $150 in labor should be easily possible (if not cheaper). i threw a muffler i bought in my trunk and kept it in there for awhile and stopped at a few shops and finally found a place that said they'd do it for $35. they ran new pipe almost from the cat all the way back to the muffler and hung it for only $35. shop around and look for a place that'll weld/replace the pipe and muffler with non-OEM parts. if they're buying direct fit bolt on replacements you're going to pay high dollar. not cost effective in my oppinion. if you still want to do this yourself....i bought a ton of flanges and gaskets and pipe. i took the old muffler and pipe (the one i had welded for $35 years earlier) to a shop and had them bend me new pipe where the two bends were in the exhaust. i welded one directly to the muffler and the other had flanges. i would not mess with that flex-pipe it is terrible quality. not bad for a mock-up maybe but i'd just take in the old stuff. they can bend close to that. mine is bolted to the motor and i have one hanger at the muffler, that's it. use the stock locations, i only have one hanger on my muffler and that's it. i don't use the mid-hanger because i didn't feel like welding it on, didn't seem necessary. worked fine for me. the front is held in place by the engine/exhaust manifold. get verything held up and lined up as best as you can. tack it in place and remove and fully weld all the parts. i did one piece at a time and worked my way front to back. bolted the first flange to the existing exhaust manifold flange. set the pipe about where i wanted it, then tacked it to the flange. removed the flange with pipe now spot welded to it and fully welded the flange. reattach and repeat until you're finished. tips: buy extra pipe and extra flanges and take back what you don't need. make sure the pipe, muffler and flanges (mostly the muffler will be the issue since pipe/flanges are usually not stainless), make sure they are not stainless unless you want to be welding stainless yourself. stainless steel can't be welded by all types of welding machines. practice welding the pipe on some junky pipe or practice pieces and a flange, pipe is thin and you need to practice a little for yourself and to get the welder settings adjusted right for the thin pipe. pipe will melt through easily. look for flanges that have good clearance between the bolt holes and the exhaust flow where the pipe will be. reason is that if it's your first time welding you don't want to be confined to making a perfect, tiny weld next to the bolt holes. what will happen is you'll make a large weld. around the pipe, then when you insert the bolt, the head of the bolt will catch on the large welds around the pipe. more clearance there will give you more flexibility, be more forgiving and less time consuming. good luck and have fun!

if it has HLA's, then yup they can make noise. sometimes a grade thicker or thinner oil will help, though i consider that a band-aid more or less. or try some sea foam added to the oil. this can clean the HLA if it's build up related. oil pump would have been a good maintenance item with all that timing belt, water pump stuff too. it has seals and screws on the backing plate that come loose. not saying that's the cause but good to take care of "while you're in there". and the guy saying engine knock is probably wrong. is it me or does every diagnosis from people that know nothing about cars involve either "the catalytic converter is clogged" or "it's like it's not getting any fuel so it's the fuel pump".

they are designed to be replaceable, but they are with a little work. and once you do it, you have replaceable and regreasable joints. i did it a couple years go and posted a picture of the process/instructions included with the ujoint. the file is too large to post here, so check it out at this link: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5179&highlight=joint resize it and post here if you'd like, these nasa computers won't allow it. next time i do this i'm having a shop build a one piece driveshaft so it uses only 2 ujoints instead of 4. prices are kind of steep, i think they were 30 or 40 a piece off the top of my head. if you find better prices, let me know. use a sawz-all to get the old ujoint out. anything else can be time consuming.