idosubaru

i've ran without an O2 sensor a number of times (car runs fine) and experienced no noticeable loss in gas mileage. in an XT6 and almost entirely highway miles. those weren't in top notch running condition and were already getting below average gas mileage for the XT6, but still no change with or without the O2.

sounds like a fair deal to me assuming the body damage isn't too bad. if the body damage is significant (won't pass inspection, not safe, not driveable) she'd have a hard time getting that much for it.

best to wait until you can see it yourself. the leak could be anywhere based on info so far. head gaskets? intake manifold gasket? etc. heads need to be removed and checked. no way to tell without looking at them, but i've had plenty of heads repaired. they charge me $50 to repair a crack between valve seats. they do a great job using stitch pins (mentioned above) and welding/grinding the top. they gaurantee it'll fail somewhere else first. if you're concerned about down time, buy a set of known good or fixable used heads to have ready to go. that's what i do (but i have extra motors lying around), get a set of heads machined, valve job and pressure tested and ready to go on the car when i do the job. makes for an easy job and you're done in one day.

don't be too surprised, this is an open and easily accessible forum and will tend to funnel issues. the thousands of owners without issues won't ever search for info/sites like this. you'll see concentrations of people with issues, that's to be expected on any forum. but "alot" is relative, percentages are still small and isolated to one motor, not "subaru". the 2.5 only (and not all of them, only certain years). even if there was a FAQ, i think this issue would get pounded on about 14 times a week, noone wants to deal with this and i don't blame them. be sure to check thermostat, coolant levels and water pump before assuming the worst. i figure you already have, but just making sure. lots of info here to make the best decision you can given the situation.

Use stitch pins to repair them. Lock N Stitch 1800 736 8261 209-632-2345 These are the part numbers and sizes used for XT6 heads (which are the same as EA82 and probably close enough to EA81 heads): L4A Aluminum Stitch Pins 1/4" Threads. they sell a kit that comes with a special tap and stitch pins. i'm sure there are other methods, this is the one the local aluminum head specialist uses that does my heads. maybe you could call some local machine shops/head specialists and see if they carry them, mine does. might not be very common though.

Japanese Domestic Motor

you were hurt in the accident? that's all you need and an attorney will not charge you a penny until the case settles then take a percentage of the final settlement. the final settlements are sickening but that's how the game is played. my best friend...rear ended, totalled car, to the hospital. nothing payed to the attorney, 10,000 in his pocket once it was all said and done. that's how it works, best to play the game even if you disagree with it. is there any reason you can't take this route? i've gotten free advice from attorneys when i had questions because i didn't know jack about jack, around here they have a free "advisement", meet with them or even talk on the phone and they give you a quick run down free of charge. that being said, at least threaten lawsuit for them to cooperate fully on your terms. tell them you're trying to play nice here and not get crazy but you have spoken to a lawyer since they are not cooperating. give them his name, address, whatever. the ball is in your court, you need to act like it or they'll keep yanking you around. yo'ure giving the impression you have something to prove, but i'm sure it's confusing becuse they're feeding you all the BS. best bet is to ignore what they ask for, it most likely won't do any good. don't take advice from someone who could potentially owe you mad loot. get everything from them in writing, phone calls are too easy for them to lie.

okay i read the thread. your attorney isn't doing his job, get a new one if you haven't signed a contract with them yet. the insurance company will fix your car, you don't need to prove jack. get to the doctors, get checked out and get a good attorney. you're putting way too much time into this. a good attorney would already have the money to fix your car by now. you are not liable for ANYTHING if this accident wasn't your fault. you get what you want. a competent attorney will have no problem doing this for you, doing it alone will be tedious in my oppinion unless you're good or lucky. there is no need to prove anything, their client wrecked YOUR car and you want YOUR car back. end of story. in court they don't stand a chance and the lawyer should know this. demand better service from the lawyer or go get a new one.

i vote for 2nd and 3rd oppinions too unless you're very confident of the honesty/reliability/knowledge of the person doing the diagnosis. if it is faulty in anyway, replace it. overheating is bad and also if the pulley/bearings went out it could affect the timing belt and this being an interference engine could cause major internal engine damage. that being said, you might want to post symptoms here for advice. what makes them think the water pump is bad? do you see any signs? have the head gaskets ever been replaced? has the car overheated at all? this is exactly why most people replace the water pump when they do a timing belt, to avoid "paying for it twice" like you're doing right now.

change your brake fluid. have you done that yet?

exhaust stud threads strip all the time. heli-coil time. stock headers have to be removed to do this, after that it's really easy to helicoil as there's no access issues. removing the header is annoying.

i tried sifting through all of this but see no response to who was at fault in this accident. you or the other person? details of the accident make a difference. the insurance company will always stall and have nothing to loose to sit on their rump and ignore you. if you had an attorney you'd be considered a possible liability to them and they would move much faster. know any lawyers? can you provide details of the accident? someone on here may be a lawyer or know one that can provide a simple letter to the insurance company. certified mail, all that jazz. you are best served to choose you own courses as well, trying every angle you can. whatever leads they give you would not be my highest priority. they may require some statements of value and i would persue those courses like you are now...but i also feel they are well versed in this area and can recount much of what you come up with. basically you are playing into their hand, by their rules. i'd persue other angles as well. look forward to seeing your hatch back (ha ha).

for these redrive systems, maybe there are other vendors or fabricators that could design what you guys are looking for that isn't intended for flying ($$$$). there are industrial, farm and other gear driven applications that might be more economical. has to be someone out there that can make something like this for the trail. on to more boring and off topicing stuff air isn't "deflected" by the curvature of the blade. it locally speeds up across the blade (or wing - cross section of a wing and propellor are similar) creating a pressure difference between the front and back (or top and bottom of a wing) which creates the thrust (or lift). if it were only displaced or redirected so to speak it wouldn't do anything. this is cool ....imagine squeezing your garden hose to make it come out faster (air and water are both fluids to engineers). picture the "humps" in the wing of an airplace (similar design to a propellor) as your finger on the garden hose. at the very tip of the wing you're not really pressing the hose much. then towards the middle "the hump" is where you're pressing hard and the water is coming out much faster. picture an imaginary wall 1 foot above the wing, the air is confined between the wing and this wall as it travels front to back speeding up just like your garden hose as you squeeze it. as velocity increases pressure must decrease (physics, etc). so the velocity increases and pressure decreases on the top. but the bottom of the wing is flat so the pressure remains about the same....so the pressure decrease on the top means the bottom is at a higher pressure and that creates lift. that simple (well, not really) principle is what lifts airplanes weighing in at 100's of thousands of pounds. crazy huh? in terms of compressing the air into a smaller area yes, but in terms of compressing the density i don't think that has much impact in terms of drag on these applications. in this instance drag is typically regarded as a function of the boundary layer seperation which does increase with increasing density (compressibility so to speak), but that is one of a number of factors in the Reynolds number which is the value of interest in most aerodynamic analysis. i would guess props are designed for limited boundary layer separation and any that did occur would be isolated to the tip (highest localized speeds).

can you take a picture of that ER27 and post it here? that is crazy.

alot depends on the accident. if the other person is at fault then the insurance company is trying to low ball you. a guy i worked with (my manager) had his old VW wrecked bad, but it was the other persons fault. he grappled with them and said he'd settle for nothing less than what he had before this person totalled his car. he wasn't looking for anything more, but wanted what he had, the accident wasn't his fault. they fixed it...and it was alot of money, considering how old the car was (80's). if the accident wasn't your fault it'll be more a much more annoying process. try ebay/autotrader, some areas will allow ebay sales to dictate taxes on used/wrecked vehicles instead of the "value" they use.

i've heard of some board members getting help from Subaru on fixing these issues past warranty mileage. 1999 seems older and i doubt it, but i'd plug around here and see if that's an option.

haa ha, more fun posts about this for me to get called 'incompetent' and other childish names. here's the bottom line ms dickens: coolant in the exhaust does not mean cracked block period. it can, but doesn't exclude other more common things. i've replaced with my own hands 6 blown headgaskets. drove to work today in one with 150,000 miles on it.

if you wanted OEM, order from one of the online subaru places. XT6 radiators run 600 or more from dealers. i've gotten new OEM XT6 radiators for $300 (shipping included). the subaru power steering systems seem robust and reliable, i wouldn't mess with it. is the additional possibility of failure associated with that worth the possible benefits? exposed lines and clamps don't sound appealing on the oil lines, but i'm being a bit idealistic i admit. i would want to know if there is a loss of volume/pressure available to the motor associated with a cooler? if the NA and turbo oil pumps are identical then i would assume they are designed for that and it's not an issue. if not identical i'd look to swap if possible. if it's a turbo i would be looking for an engine oil cooler somewhere.

up to 95 had dual port exhaust. after that 2.2's have single port exhaust. 95 has EGR compatible stuff that 94 and earlier doesn't have, making it a little easier compared to other years. anyone know what years have 2 and 3 connectors? 97,98,99 2.2's all have 2 or 3 connectors?

the newer head gaskets were installed in post 2001 or 2002 subaru's so for the years you're looking at you should be fine. i've worked on a few of these later year subaru's and none have seen issue.

the 1.8 liter pulleys can be found for reasonable prices (http://www.thepartsbin.com i've ordered from before). the XT6 2.7 liter pulleys are HIGH. follow the directions above and you won't have any problems. i can do it in a matter of minutes, took about one time to "get it down". now i've done a few cars already and have some extra sets lying around for next time. very easy. on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the hardest i'd rate this a 1. the only tricky part is getting the nail in and the plate up enough to get the needle in but not too far to deface the bearing, but not that hard at all. less is more for that part.

how about leave the 99 intake manifold and bolt it to the 98 2.2? are the engine harnesses different between 98 and 99's? i can't recall how many connectors were on the 97 i pulled. thanks again!

said the 99 was a 2 connector engine harness and the earlier ones were 3. im' at work or i'd go look at one. forgot to mention that...... i'm sure someone knows/recalls which ones have 2 or 3 connectors? i thought they were plug and play after 1994? thanks!

crawl under the car to check for two things: one - grab the driveshaft (going from transmission to rear differential) and shake it around. excessive play will point to a bad ujoint. the ujoints can get bad and seize and still pass this test though occassionally so that doesn't necessarily rule it out, but a bad one typically will show by the grab and shake test. while yo'ure there (under the car) grab the rear diff and shake it as well, use the axles if you'd like. if it wobbles excessively the bearing above it is bad and the diff will clunk around while driving, shifting, etc. above the diff is a 17 mm bolt with a 22mm nut on the other side. this passes right trhough the rear diff carrier and bushing. these bushings go bad....most are 20 years old by now. clank clank is the result. with a flashlight and careful inspection you can see cracks in it or completely missing.

EGADS HOTDOG!!!! i thought for sure that since i didn't hear from you on the way back you made it okay. sorry about that! hope you at least made it close to home? i thought about calling....bad gary....then i figured you would have called if you had any problems. sorry to hear that hotdog. glad we didn't try pulling my car with yours...that might have done it in quick and dirty!! did you make it home or what?