idosubaru

pedals come out as an assembly (PITA to remove on XT6's). in my oppinion anyway. get steering column and anything else out of the way if possible. sounds cool!

what vehicle, engine, transmission, year,

post in the "Older Generation Forums" youll get alot more response there then in this forum "Subaru Retrofitting". test the battery, try another battery. check battery terminals connections - good, tight and clean are a must.

what?? no dodge neons on the list? they blow almost at a predicatble rate! i'm not even a mechanic and i've replaced them (don't make friends with neon owners)

it's not "common" on these engines so much as it is common "here" because people come here with problems. few people have a couple year old car and think "hey let's find an internet forum to post how we've driven the car without any problems". people come looking for answers/solutions when things go bad. high percentage of problems here doesn't mean high percentage of problems with the engine. the 2.5 (certain early years) does have more issue than other subaru motors, but still not a high percentage of overall motors. the new headgasket is not prone to the same leakages and will fix the problem for good given proper installation. i can't recall anyone blowing a replaced headgasket, though im' sure it's happened once. the turbo guys probably blow them all the time, but you're not looking to race.

bump anyone know the 2.2 liter differences from 98 to 99? blocks are swappable? EGR on 98 but not in 99? other than EGR it seems the blocks should swap just fine right? (minus the possible bellhousing bolt differences 4 to 8 bolt change)

someone on another thread just posted that they swapped a 1997 2.2 (single port) into a 1997 2.5 (double port). he exchanged exhaust manifolds and it bolted right up. so you should be golden. *******EDIT****** here's the link to that thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40563&page=3&pp=10

do a search on "headgasket" in this new generation forum and you'll see this is a very common problem for 2.5's on the boards (i think i've replied to two or three posts about it already this morning). still a small percentage of vehicles, but those problems often end up visiting this board for help so there's a high number on here. that being said, the "new" head gaskets solve the issue and are not known to have issue and make a great motor if the heads and block were'nt damaged when it was first overheated. i would thoroughly test it out and test drive it as much as possible and keep your eye on the temperature gauge, looking for any fluctuations and pop the hood after the car is warmed up and hot. look for any air bubbles in the overflow tank. also look for coolant coming out the exhaust at start up. if done properly, you've got yourself a great car. if i were looking for a 2.5 i would certainly be most interested in one with the newer headgaskets as they are great motors. i personally say much much better to have had the head gaskets replaced if it's a 2.5 then buying one sight unseen. i like the sounds of it personally.

i think after 2001 the headgasket issues were corrected from the factory so if you're looking at 2.5's look for later models. it's 2001 or 2002, i'm not sure the date. later is better. it's not a catastrophic failure and certainly only a small percentage. it'll very slowly creep up on you, so i'd say keep driving the car until you experience issues as you'll still have time to look for another car if issues ever come to pass.

probably best to test drive a few to see what you like and don't like. i personally wouldn't buy any 2.5 liter motors unless they are newer (2001 and up i believe) as the old ones are prone to head gasket failure. not a huge percentage but search for "headgasket" here on this newer generation forum and you'll see what i mean, plenty of posts on the subject. otherwise the 2.5 is a great motor. i'd rather have the 2.2 (and i do own one) than the 2.5. the 2.2 is a great motor and they run forever, but you might not like the lower power of the 2.2. the H6 is a very new motor and not much is known about it in terms of reliability and such. i wouldn't get it, but that's because i put 200,000+ miles on cars and do all the work myself, i want more info on reliability and maintenance. if you don't keep cars that long, drive that many miles or do your own maintenance then my mental hang ups mean nothing to you. some years auto trans have Torque Bind (do a search here on the forums for what years/makes as i do not know). it's not a huge deal, but be a good thing to look out for while test driving. it's fixable and won't leave you sitting, just something easy to pay attention to while looking around.

will they at least help you find the part number for it? are you talking about "bushings"? the rubber bushings on the rear cross bar? can you post a picture? there are a couple Subaru dealership parts department people on this board that might be willing to ship you the parts if you can figure out the part number. part number would be best as cars in other countries can have different parts/options on the same models.

thanks a ton nate, that's a big help! i was wondering if the y pipe would mate up, figured it won't take much exhaust work if it didn't. awesome, been dying to find that out. now anyone know the diferrences in connectors - 97,98,99 2.2 liters? maybe i should start another thread.

this has nothing to do with understanding. this is about making money. the less they pay out, the more they stall, the more they burden you, the more money they make. here's an analogy of sorts. at this point there is no benefit to paying you, no benefit to the company. the only recourse you have might be to say it's a law they have to give you fair market value. you've already told them (through action) you don't want to involve lawyers and the court. the only way to enforce this law is to take them to court which brings you right back to where we started. the very thing you're trying to avoid (the system of law) is also the thing you're trying to use to sway them in your favor. that being said.....friday's rental deadline might be a good leverage point for you in terms of forcing them to make a final offer or decision on fair market value or.....whatever it is you plan to do if they don't cooperate. good luck man and we all look forward to seeing you come out on top of these pigs.

it is good for you to work this out yourself if you can, the benefit is that you'll get $$ much quicker if you can solve it on your own. do not trust anything the insurance company says, they are trained in this where you are not. you are their little pawn at this point. anything they say likely has ulterior motives. i would suggest you need to creatively word some statements about hiring a lawyer and taking this to court. no threats, no emotion, but put it on the table that it is still an option if they won't cooperate. be advised too if they do offer more money, they may want you to sign papers that absolve them of any further responsibility. that being said, make sure your medical bills are still covered or they are still liable for any future medical bills you may have. another good reason to have an attorney, they are familiar with that. in cases like this, attorneys do not charge fees in the typical sense, they take a percentage. you will get alot more $ if you have an attorney, but it will take longer in some cases (depends on the attorney/accident). in my oppinion it's best to let the snakes of the world duke it out (lawyers and insurance companies) and just give me the $ when they're done. you're looking for what, a grand or two? an attorney will leave you with $5,000-$15,000. they'll get about 20,000 and take roughly %50, but you're still left with alot more than you'll get on your own. they don't charge $10,000, they charge a percentage of the total...IF THEY WIN. (which they always do in easy cases like this). if they get nothing, you pay nothing. that's why i'm surprised you've alreayd payed "a small fee", most lawyers don't charge in cases like this. actually none do that i've ever heard of in accident cases. they have a quick assessment of the accident, if they think they'll win they take the case and percentage. if they think there's not a chance they won't take the case and no cost to you.

i've ran without an O2 sensor a number of times (car runs fine) and experienced no noticeable loss in gas mileage. in an XT6 and almost entirely highway miles. those weren't in top notch running condition and were already getting below average gas mileage for the XT6, but still no change with or without the O2.

sounds like a fair deal to me assuming the body damage isn't too bad. if the body damage is significant (won't pass inspection, not safe, not driveable) she'd have a hard time getting that much for it.

best to wait until you can see it yourself. the leak could be anywhere based on info so far. head gaskets? intake manifold gasket? etc. heads need to be removed and checked. no way to tell without looking at them, but i've had plenty of heads repaired. they charge me $50 to repair a crack between valve seats. they do a great job using stitch pins (mentioned above) and welding/grinding the top. they gaurantee it'll fail somewhere else first. if you're concerned about down time, buy a set of known good or fixable used heads to have ready to go. that's what i do (but i have extra motors lying around), get a set of heads machined, valve job and pressure tested and ready to go on the car when i do the job. makes for an easy job and you're done in one day.

don't be too surprised, this is an open and easily accessible forum and will tend to funnel issues. the thousands of owners without issues won't ever search for info/sites like this. you'll see concentrations of people with issues, that's to be expected on any forum. but "alot" is relative, percentages are still small and isolated to one motor, not "subaru". the 2.5 only (and not all of them, only certain years). even if there was a FAQ, i think this issue would get pounded on about 14 times a week, noone wants to deal with this and i don't blame them. be sure to check thermostat, coolant levels and water pump before assuming the worst. i figure you already have, but just making sure. lots of info here to make the best decision you can given the situation.

Use stitch pins to repair them. Lock N Stitch 1800 736 8261 209-632-2345 These are the part numbers and sizes used for XT6 heads (which are the same as EA82 and probably close enough to EA81 heads): L4A Aluminum Stitch Pins 1/4" Threads. they sell a kit that comes with a special tap and stitch pins. i'm sure there are other methods, this is the one the local aluminum head specialist uses that does my heads. maybe you could call some local machine shops/head specialists and see if they carry them, mine does. might not be very common though.

Japanese Domestic Motor

you were hurt in the accident? that's all you need and an attorney will not charge you a penny until the case settles then take a percentage of the final settlement. the final settlements are sickening but that's how the game is played. my best friend...rear ended, totalled car, to the hospital. nothing payed to the attorney, 10,000 in his pocket once it was all said and done. that's how it works, best to play the game even if you disagree with it. is there any reason you can't take this route? i've gotten free advice from attorneys when i had questions because i didn't know jack about jack, around here they have a free "advisement", meet with them or even talk on the phone and they give you a quick run down free of charge. that being said, at least threaten lawsuit for them to cooperate fully on your terms. tell them you're trying to play nice here and not get crazy but you have spoken to a lawyer since they are not cooperating. give them his name, address, whatever. the ball is in your court, you need to act like it or they'll keep yanking you around. yo'ure giving the impression you have something to prove, but i'm sure it's confusing becuse they're feeding you all the BS. best bet is to ignore what they ask for, it most likely won't do any good. don't take advice from someone who could potentially owe you mad loot. get everything from them in writing, phone calls are too easy for them to lie.

okay i read the thread. your attorney isn't doing his job, get a new one if you haven't signed a contract with them yet. the insurance company will fix your car, you don't need to prove jack. get to the doctors, get checked out and get a good attorney. you're putting way too much time into this. a good attorney would already have the money to fix your car by now. you are not liable for ANYTHING if this accident wasn't your fault. you get what you want. a competent attorney will have no problem doing this for you, doing it alone will be tedious in my oppinion unless you're good or lucky. there is no need to prove anything, their client wrecked YOUR car and you want YOUR car back. end of story. in court they don't stand a chance and the lawyer should know this. demand better service from the lawyer or go get a new one.

i vote for 2nd and 3rd oppinions too unless you're very confident of the honesty/reliability/knowledge of the person doing the diagnosis. if it is faulty in anyway, replace it. overheating is bad and also if the pulley/bearings went out it could affect the timing belt and this being an interference engine could cause major internal engine damage. that being said, you might want to post symptoms here for advice. what makes them think the water pump is bad? do you see any signs? have the head gaskets ever been replaced? has the car overheated at all? this is exactly why most people replace the water pump when they do a timing belt, to avoid "paying for it twice" like you're doing right now.

change your brake fluid. have you done that yet?

exhaust stud threads strip all the time. heli-coil time. stock headers have to be removed to do this, after that it's really easy to helicoil as there's no access issues. removing the header is annoying.