idosubaru

your record isn't the driving factor for insurance companies. insurance companies don't care about how many points are on your record. they assign their own point value for any violation that occurs and also can retain those any amount of time that they want (within the law, if there is one for that), possibly even beyond when the points may be on your official state driving record. so even if you have a "clean" driving record because your past tickets are finally not on it, the insurance company can still make their own assessment of risk based on other information.

Xt

definitley not the case. done it on a number of subaru's, no change. doing it right now actually. no difference at all, not even a teeny bit. no, i already explained this earlier in the thread. again - done it before.

when you installed the head gasket were the proper reinforced o-rings installed on the cam carriers? there's one small o-ring at the base of the cam carrier that must be replaced with a reinforced type oring that is hard to find. Subaru and http://www.thepartsbin.com are the only places i've ever seen carry. never seen any autoparts store carry this oring. a regular oring will cause issue, similar to what you're having, but would probably also cause a small amount (or large?) of seapage at the corner of the cam carrier as well. your oil pressure sounds great, that's well above normal for most soobs of this vintage on the road today. reseal the oil pump. here are a few tips i typed up for the XT6, yours will be slightly different but very similar: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5243 is the ticking all over the engine or localized to one cyilnder/one side?

are you talking about the front pads? if it's like the XT6 (emergency brake on the front) you'll need the special brake piston socket. attaches to your socket wrench, it's a small tool that costs about 5 bucks. it's a little square with different knobs on each face, one side will slide into the subaru pistons. the piston needs to be "turned" while pushing in, so a C-clamp won't work. here's a picture of the tool: http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?1145 they also make a special kit that was on sale at harbor freight for 19.99, well worth the 20 bucks. the tool mentioned earlier is testing at times, this kit is much nicer. this tool is part number 40732-0VGA from www.harborfreight.com they are normally 39 or 49.99, but it's on sale and was 19.99 when i got it a week or two ago. no ads or anything priced 39 at the store, but rang up 19.99. great deal. if you're talking about the rears then none of this is relevant!!!

pretty straight forward, like he said. remove crank pulley, timing belts and necessary covers. remove oil pump. great tip on the XT6 - use a 32mm socket on the oil pump impellor, perfect fit to loosen the nut on the face of the oil pump and replace the seal. the XT oil pump is a little different, so i'm not sure if the impeller is the same size, been awhile since i've done one of those. but my guess is there's a socke that will work if it is different. use a dab of anaerobic sealant at noon and 6 oclock on the oil pump housing to help seal where the two halves of the block come together behind the oil pump. install gaskets/seals and you're done. if i recall right, the FSM isn't very clear on the torque specs for the oil pump. here's a link to the oil pump write-up i did for the XT6. EA82 is a tad different, but this may help if you run into any issues: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5243

someone tried installing a larger MAF on an XT6 and it did not like it at all. i believe he is right about the ECU. it is very simplistic i would guess in terms of air flow. ideally the sensor would send information "this is how much air you're getting", but after those failed tests which i helped out with some i believe the ECU gets info from the sensor and internally calculates "how much air i'm getting" based on a predetermined cross sectional area of the MAF sensor. increasing the MAF sensor will effectively make any calculation the ECu makes incorrect since it still uses the "old" size. just a guess, but it didn't work that's for sure. BUT - i say try it, it may have only been an issue with the particular MAF he was attempting to use. they are cheap and easy enough to work with, give it a try and let us know!

95 is the first year of EGR on the 2.2's but the last year of dual port. if you use 95+ then swap the exhaust header as well and you're fine. don't know about the EGR issue on older ones.

i'd call around yards and ask, they may have one with a bad block they're willing to take parts off of. also the pull it yourself yards around here have zillions of EJ22's all over the place, never see any old subaru's. they'd be like 5 bucks there, i'd check a local pull it yourself yard. i've gone to pick up alternators, a/c compressors, ignitor coils, etc, they always have EJ stuff.

there's no possibility of rear diff issues from just removing the driveshaft, if anything it'll make it last longer, less power (none from the trans) going through it so less wear theoretically though that would never show itself in practical terms.

that's not the only reason to do it - failing transmission, broken axle shaft, bad drive shaft ujoints and failing rear differential are other possibilities.....except for failing transmission i've been presented with all of those issues in subaru's and used the driveshaft removal method for anywhere from a day to a year and a half with no issues. i've done it enough to know you are exactly right too, no gas mileage difference!

none, i've done it before. drive away. definitley zero effect on your rear diff, it won't be seeing any power so that's not an issue. if you're constantly powering on the duty solenoid C you may cause issue, but mine never failed and i've done this before. i have a switch in place to control my duty solenoid C so it's gets lots of use. no issue to date, this is on the first gen of 4EAT transmissions, the newer ones do seem to have more issues than the older ones, but i would expect no ill effect based on my experience. i've done this to auto and manual trans and driven lots of miles, highway miles, 1600 miles round trip back and forth between maryland and georgia....no problems. first - the driveshaft slides into the transmission so yo'ull definitely need to keep the end of the driveshaft in there to prevent fluid from pouring out the rear extension housing. the driveshaft slides through a seal in the rear of the transmission. so you have to remove the rear half of the driveshaft (they are typically in two "pieces"). if you remove the driveshaft and try to drive, the rear output shaft of the trans will spin....but it's not connected to anything and fronts won't get any power. it's because of the way the trans works. try it, but you won't go anywhere.

you need to start simple for going into less common failure areas. i would not suspect the fuel pump to be a failure point this early on, anything is possible but fuel pumps very rarely fail on subaru's so it's a bit of a gamble to start looking there in my oppinion. most people on the old gen forum are running their 200,000 mile 20 year old fuel pumps still. test the battery. make sure the connections to the battery are clean and tight. when was the last time a tune up was done? spark plugs and wires? use NGK plugs and OEM Subaru wires or magnecor only, don't use anything from the parts store counter for plugs or wires. how many miles are on the vehicle?

i would look for the cable and verify if it is or is not there first. out of the top of the trans (just behind the motor) and also check behind the instrument cluster....get all twisted lying on the floor and have a flash light handy.

depends. what kind of driving are you doing? if it's not many miles because you don't drive the car much, then you're probably fine waiting. although personally i'd change it every 4 months since it's cheap and that's only 3 times a year, that's pennies. if you have low mileage due to short trips i would change it now for sure. if this is the case you may see residue/condensation under the oil cap. think it comes from the engine not sustaining operating temperatures long enough..something like that, due to short trips. if that's the case i would definitely change it instead of wait.

i didn't know that. good to know. they are nice, but when abused annoying. if turned off there would be questions that others would assume should be easily answerable. no perfect solution except tolerance.

signatures are nice. signatures are a pain. i like them. but, the foundational goal of this board is probably something related to building a resource for subaru enthusiasts. when i'm researching and find a good post about some procedure but have to scroll through 10 pages of information because one users signature takes up a large portion of the posts, it's annoying. not everyone has smoking internet speeds and likes waiting for the next page of information to load. or if we're scrolling through pages trying to help somene, also annoying trying to find the details of the situation. in defense of the "offenders", many probably assumed it didn't apply to them, or never read those posts. i like the idea of deleting the violators, but realize that's not a good option in dealing with communities this large. i don't mind not having signatures now that they're gone, brings the forum back to practicality. the added functionality is worth the price to me. we'll always be needing to tell what vehicle we have. lots of people are new users, passing through, have more than one subaru, work on other peoples subaru's, on other forums, and should get into the habit of providing that information. if that starts to hog up time i'm sure the mods could add that info to the info under our name....like state we're from.

inexpensive, easy to work on, i'm familiar with them, have the FSM's and tools for mine, have lots of spare parts if needed. non-interference engines (i know pre-1997 2.2's are as well though). air suspension, better gas mileage and i like the XT model.

your best bet is to just disconnect the driveshaft to the rear differential (very easy to do) and drive with the FWD fuse in that way. no further worries with the trans.

this is not the case. the 1995 is only advantageous because of the dual port exhaust that the later 2.2's don't have. which isn't an issue if you have the y-pipe (or a welder). sensors won't be an issue.

yes the dealer can pull the code and charge $75 just for that. advanced auto parts, autozone and other chains will pull the code for free. most likely will be cyilnder mis-fire. replace your spark plugs and wires. use only NGK plugs (factory OEM plugs, but you can get them anywhere) and OEM or Magnecor wires (only aftermarket brand i'd trust on these goofy motors). you'll find a large contingent of members here will suggest OEM plugs and wires and that's for a reason. if they've recently been replaced, make sure they were OEM Subaru spark plug wires, not some off brand. any previous engine work done?

i have a set of WRX wheels in excellent condtion with snow tires if you're interested and i'm headed up the PA Turnpike this weekend. NA stands for Normally Aspirated (non-turbo) engine.

i've seen NA EA82's do this as well. i've replaced the oil cap o-ring, on an EA82 that wouldn't idle unless i pressed really hard on the oil cap?? weird, but i'm an XT6 owner and they don't do that. always wondered why.

no but i've helicoiled plenty of other bolts holes. works great and not hard at all. might need a right angle drill to get to some holes. if you have easy access, definitely go this route as it's not difficult at all.

well yes, except they are a pain to remove and as tight/pressed in that they are i believe them not to be a cause for concern. the motor was fine i was replacing the oil pan gasket and figured i'd replace that oring while i was in there.