Cougar

I would guess something has happened to the switch contacts in the steering column.

I suggest you purchase a test light probe at an auto parts store. Check for power at the fuses that power that section. There are small holes in the top of the fuses that you can place the probe tip on both sides of the fuse to check for power. There may be a bad connection at the fuse panel. If there is, the proble will tell the story.

I agree TC, it would seem that more things would be effected if it was a link. Perhaps there is a breaker for these items and it is bad.

That is a pretty tough way to find the problem but it worked for that guy. Your problem is different Ken. Your circuit is open, not shorted.

Yes they are. I would look for a small box near the battery. I'm not real familiar with the Legacys unfortunately.

I would check the fusible links.

There are ways to open the door locks without having a key. You should take the car into the dealer and have them give you an estimate of repair or your insurance company will direct you where they want the estimate done. There is a lot stereo gear to choose from on the market and I would check out some places that sell the gear so you can listen for yourself what you would like to put in the car. You may also want to think about adding an alarm system since you will be making it more attractive for another breakin.

Gunslinger, Did you try to do the coil function test I gave you? If so, how did it turn out? Going by your other posts it does seem the problem is with the distributor end of the circuit connection for some reason. You stated that the power was getting to the minus side of the coil and another coil also did the same thing (no spark). If you used the body of the coil for your ground reference when making the voltage test then the test I gave to you may not be necessary but I would try it just to double check the coil function. Check all your fuses, especially #5. I believe the horn works off of that one also, so if it isn't good, replace it.

It sounds like you may have a bad pick up loop in the distributor or a bad coil. You should see power on the minus side of the coil also. To prove out the coil circuit place a plug wire, with a plug in one end, into the coil high voltage output point. Place the plug body on a good ground point. Place a clip lead on the minus side of the coil and hold the other end of the lead near a ground point with the ignition on (don't touch the bare wire, hold the insulation ), and then touch and release the wire to ground. You should get a spark at the plug if the coil is ok. You will then need to see what is wrong with the pick up loop. If there is a transistor switch on the base of the distributor it may be bad.

I would check for voltage getting to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to the 'on' position. If you have voltage then the starter is at fault. If you don't have voltage then the safety switch may be at fault.

Hi Ken, Checking for voltage is easier than you may think. I suggest you invest in a test light probe that can be purchased at an auto parts store for less than $10 dollars. You simply clip the wire lead of the probe to a good ground point and place the probe tip on the connection you want to check for voltage. If the light turns on then there is voltage at that point. Your problem appears to be due to an open connection rather than a short, which are opposite conditions. The connection may have been shorted at one time though if you found a blown fuse for this. I'm not sure where the fusible links are in the Legacy models but in the older models they were in a small plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir.

The other fan will turn on with the AC or if the temperature gets above 210 degrees F. I believe.

I would check for voltage getting to the coils. There may be severed wire that got shorted out somewhere. There may also be a fusible link that is blown.

From what you describe it does sound like a fuel problem.

You will need a regulator for the 6 volts required for the camera. Don't try to plug it in without it or you may ruin your camera. There are ways to make a cheap one using a zener diode and some resistors. You may be able find a unit designed for automobiles to fit your camera. They aren't too expensive. Hopefully you haven't hurt the engine with the low coolant situation. I would not drive it again until this is fixed.

Sounds like you ought to get him a little gift as a thank you.

You should be able able to hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key to the on position. The fuel system may be charged up already so turn the key to start first and chrank the engine for a second. Then turn the key off and back to on and see if you hear the pump turn on for about a second. Normally you should place a plug into the wire you pull to check for spark but your way should work ok. When you say ground the lead I hope you mean there is a small gap between the wire and ground. for the arc. If you don't have spark getting to the plugs then the fuel pump will not run. If there is no spark, then the first thing to look for is voltage getting to the plus side of the coil with the key on. Then check for voltage also on the minus side. You should be able to see pulsing voltage on the minus side when you crank the engine over if the pickup loop is ok.

A partially plugged radiator may be another possibility or the thermostat is not opening as much as it should be, allowing the water to circulate like it should.

I also would stongly suspect the CV joint causing this problem. If that isn't it then I would guess the problem is between it and the wheel. I don't think you will have much trouble finding it as I think it will be pretty obvious once you jack up the wheel. Don't forget to block the vehicle up so you are not depending on the jack to hold the vehicle up. I'm sure your dad would love a visit from you but going that far to make repairs and taking so much of your time to go back-n-forth seems like a lot to me. With a car having that many miles it seems problems like this will pop up now and then. I guess you really need to decide how much you want to put into the car and if you want to make payments for something that won't be much trouble for awhile. The timing belts may be due for a change at 180k miles.

I think you are correct about the code. After reading your posts a thought went through my mind but I didn't really want to say something you REALLY didn't want to hear. I hope I am wrong about this, but I think your idea of checking the timing again may be what needs to be done. It sounds to me that one or both of the cams may be a tooth off. Ok, I said it. Like I said, I hope I'm wrong.

My momma always told me, "If life gives you lemons, then make lemonaid". You are correct in your logic about not just one cylinder having a problem. Some things that can be done to pin this problem down are: 1. Swap the spark plug lead with another one and see if that changes things. 2. Swap the coils. 3. Swap the fuel injector. 4. Check the compression. 5. Check for carbon buildup in the cylinder. Here is a link that shows basic engine operation. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine3.htm

That's what I thought the number was, thanks for confiming that. As far as the clock problem goes, I guess you are right about a loose connection between the fuse and the clock power. Edit: I wonder if the clock not working and the fuse blowing mysteriously are related somehow?

Russ, I am curious to find out what the fuse number was you replaced to get the horn going again. I think it is number 5, is that correct?

Russ, I have been through the same problem with another poster some time back. Was the fuse for the horn number 5 that you replaced? The horn fuse also powers the clock I think. I also asked this question in your other write up so if you answer here don't bother with the other one.

Russ, I have been through this before with another poster a while back. Was the fuse for the horn number 5? I think the same fuse supplies power to the clock also.