NoahDL88

How 'bout those Pistons!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25565 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29246&highlight=ej22+swap There is plenty of info out there already, but a lot of it is stuff that you will need to find out for yourself. Good luck, i have a EJ22 GL 1600 and i'm gonna try my first conversion of my own in July, just don't be supprized if no one has the answers you are looking for. Manuals for both the engine donor vehicle and receiving car are mandatory, unless you can tell by the color of the wire where it goes. It is a completey do-able swap, but its not easy or straighforward either.

MPFI only came on "premium" cars, all turbo, and some XT's all XT-6's I don't know about RX's but a good rule of thumb is that if its not carby, its probably a SPFI.

Right now its up in the air, i need to make sure i can get rid of the car's shell once i got the stuff off it i need, roomate/houseowner dosn't want a shell sitting too long.

IIRC the direct quote from every owners manual is "your Subaru is designed as an all road vehicle, not an off road vehicle."

If you're running spfi you can rotate the rubber tube, maf and filter back into the spare tire area, its not the best, but its much better than stock.

Its not too late to stay in Seattle

I'm suprized that no one in this thread is from Seattle, but if you are from seattle, or anywhere else for that matter, Boeing has a surplus store on the south end, they got plenty of stuff to choose from for skid plates, if you keep trying and come back often, like the PaP you could score yourself a nice piece of titanium for a plate, but i caution you, its very pricy, but its cheaper than running without oil i guess. I'm sure they have steel and ally too.

Does the harness have room for 4 plugs? cause if it dosn't it could be the MPFI NA harness, as i believe the computer to be.

seeing as how you've already used a screw driver, you've probably ruined the paint already, try Goof off, or goo begone, i'm not 100% if its safe on paint, but it should take the glue off.

clean up the battery cables, it sounds like a loose or corroded connection, either coke or baking soda+ water, (the arm and hammer stuff) on your battery towers.

what engine, what vehicle? what years of the parts, what specifically is it not doing, spark fuel or crank?

the hanger, not the diff. Good to see you on the board again anyway.

the stock headers fit under a 80 wagon no problem, so the 86 should be no problem. the exhaust is where the most power can be made from subie engines, it seems that way at least. so if you have the opportunity, i'd make the headers yourself.

k, nm, i'll convert one myself. but get those ebay suckers for all there worth.

How much were you looking to get for the 4.11 LSD?

The wiring as you have said, is for the back light, i do most of my mudding at night, so an inclinometer that dosn't light up is about as useful as a civic in the mountains

I got one for my car, i'm not giving it up, I havn't wired it in yet so i don't have any pictures, but i got it from Mcbrat, i don't know if he has any more, but if he does, he'd be the one to ask.

If anyone in Detroit is good with a wrench, or just wants to shoot the $&(% I'm thinking that some time saturday or sunday i will be pulling the drivetrain out from underneath a 91 legacy for two swaps, a AT>MT swap and an EA to EJ swap. If your game let me know. food and beverages will be provided, but feel free to bring your own.

Huzzah, i'm back in the EJ-22 swap camp again, i got a new car, so i don't need the legacy, and if i sold it i couldn't get enough for the tranny swap for the OBS and the engine swap for the 88. So, hopefully the 88 will be running with EJ-22 power by the end of the summer, just waiting on a few parts and she will be good to go. Anyone in SE Michigan that wants to join a wrenching party, beer and pizza, root beer if ya be a miner, or a minor.

I'm thinking after all your kind comments, that black may be the color to go with.

As much as i would like old school coverage, i realize that the market is not there, and no market no money, no money no new issues, no new issues no more subiesport, so i will accept it being new car/wrx based. Would it be possible to submit articles about the old school stuff? its win-win, 1 maybe 2 pages are done and ready to go, besides final editing its an easy page, and we get the coverage we desire. Just a thought. my .02

metal bits made for ally won't clog nearly as easily as those for steel, they will have bigger spaces between the flutes. having my engine machining certificate, I should warn you that you need to be extra careflul when poring by hand without a flow bench. if you take off too much in any one area you can severly reduce velocity and loose a dramatic amount of power, my .02 would tell you that you should just smooth up the ports with a sand paper type cylinder or cone. just try to smooth out the transitions and don't get too carried away, bigger isn't always better, especially on these motors. If you're gonna port and polish, you should get a 3 angle valve job with some bigger valves, that would be your biggest restriction. As far as the turbo, i'd leave it alone and get a bigger one, ask WJM which one he's using, that would be a good start.

That neighborhood is good old DEtroiT, the emphasis goes on the capital letters.

Ok, just making sure. but good logic using the stickers as a guide, of course the licence plates would be a problem, the front is a WA the back is a Mi