NoahDL88

Cutting a coil will make it more stiff Physics is hard. I did this mod on my 88 DL wagon, didn't cut the coils. Yes they are stiff, but if you're looking more for load capacity they do work rather well. Some flex is lost however.

I'll shoot you a pm Cool, I owe you some money anyway We might be on that side of the mountains again this weekend, or next depending on when Austin's driveshaft is done.

I already have a long laundry list of stuff I want/need for it Hood Drivers side fender Standard exhaust, the side pipes are too loud 5 speed swap driveshaft (If anyone has one made up I'm interested) cargo cover 80/81 chrome bumpers front mudflaps and a ton of other stuff that's mundane Did these things come in any other interior color other than tan and blue?

SJR lifts makes a kit for your OBW, depending on what year it is.

If they are in parallel it would be 8 ga wire

I'd still put a fuse in there. The size of the load would determine how much wire you'll want, but at some point the alternator won't be able to keep up anyway.

You have what in the US would call a DL. I swapped the DL dash for a GL one on a car I had. Would I do it again? nope, no way, I'd just install an aftermarket tach, its much easier and you don't have to deal with slightly different connectors, vacuum lines and other fun issues.

yes, it will be easier that way

The two bolts that hold the starter on are 14mm on top, and a 17mm nut on bottom. +1 disconnect the battery, grounding out the starter on the frame/engine will ruin your day, and your shorts, DAMHIK

what's the fun in spoiling the surprise?

Just picked up an 86 Hatchback, It needs a bath like a two dollar... Um anyway, it will look great once its cleaned up, it was parked under a bird poop tree. I have big plans, and if all the stars align it might get done by the Subaru Show, but that's a big if, and a most likely probably not. Pics should be up tomorrow, its nothing fancy or out of the ordinary.

lets not be too hard on him, I'm sure he had the best intentions, Just commenting on him to add to your post count?

pull apart any connection you can find under the hood and spray with wd-40 as well, or put in dielectric grease if you have some.

Spray the inside of your disty with WD-40, really the only reason to keep it around, the WD-40 that is. Helps it dry out much faster and removes condensation. Swap in a new air filter asap, you don't want the crud and junk that got your original air filter wet to dry out and get sucked into the engine.

Zombie thread, Aim for the brain, kill it This thread is died 6 years ago.

I'm in Seattle and have the special tool if anyone wants/needs to borrow it.

I really wouldn't worry about it, unless there are bulges or other obvious signs of tread separation.

Yes, there will most likely be food vendors, and it will be near a small town, so there will be plenty of grocery stores and restaurants. And farmers markets

West Coast Subaru Show Its usually in Northern Oregon or Washington state, so West coast is kinda a misnomer, but the PNW does have the largest concentration of Subie nuts, so it works out

If the bag tears when it explodes the fireball can be pretty cool. The neat test was when we tensile tested the seatbelt webbing, good for around 15-20k newtons (just over 2 tons) the entire machine pulling it apart would jump off the ground, and were talking a machine that weights as much as a car. No, I wasn't a crash test dummy, a joke I get slightly less than the "where's your ark" quip.

They are pretty common, depending on where you are. I'm in WA so they are everywhere, someone in say Kansas may not be so lucky. Unless they are in super nice condition I'd pass on them

I was, spent 2 years testing airbags and seatbelts in Michigan

Where in SW Wa are you? I'd recommend not taking apart the retractor unless you know what you're doing. Honestly the best choice is to replace it. If you don't do it just right you won't find out until you need it. I used to be a seat-belt engineer, trust me, you don't want to take it apart.

Both are easy, be careful when you open the brake lines, they like to round off, use the special open-box end wrenches and you should be ok. Wheels will fit no problem. Don't do the brakes unless you have a buddy to help bleed them, Oh, you might need to swap the proportioning valve, located near the gas tank, follow the brake lines forward. I didn't swap on my 88 wagon, but its worth doing and improves braking and keeps the rears from locking up as easily.

disconnect the batter first But you knew that They are straight forward, 14mm on top 17mm on bottom