NoahDL88

Honestly i'd be more worried about if your winch is even capable of pulling your car out. If you get so stuck that you need a winch you'll be fighting more than double the weight of the car. At a very minimum I'd wager a 4500 would be as small as you really want to go, a 5000 or 6000 would be better. I'd also go 1/4 inch, If you don't have a welder that will penetrate 1/4" I'm sure there is someone else on this board near you with one that will. Now that I think about it, 3/8's might be better.

The wiring, if done by someone else and shipped to you isn't terribly bad, I would recommend pulling the harness, and having it cut down, and then with the engine still in the original car, try getting it running, after that its all pretty much easy.

+1 on the write up, if you can't do about 90% of the swap without supervision then its probably not the project for you. Wiring will be the hardest part, study that and be sure you want to tackle it before you start.

I can see that going over well, Dear Subaru, I'd like you to make a car that you just recently took out of production because it's sales volume was poor. Sincerely, My newest Subaru is already 15 years old and I won't be buying a new one ever. PS, every model should only come with a 6 speed dual range and a turbo.

The dirt/mud/oil mix acts as a secondary gasket to the ones on the car that are leaking. At least that seems to be the case on my car.

Red on black does venom lack, Red on yellow will kill a fellow. Nice driveshaft by the way

Where do you live? you should fill out your profile

For plugs, most here will recommend the OEM NGK plugs, you don't have to get them at the dealer, but don't fall for the gimmicks of super fancy Bosch plugs. For the wires, many will say that OEM are the only way to go, but if you get a good quality aftermarket set you should be OK.

Your Leggo is a 94 at best, the 95 was not offered with a turbo. I'd recommend against it, the non turbo has higher compression and will not run well with the turbo, and it doesn't have oil squirters to keep the pistons cool. Unless of course you want to make it a non turbo, in which case I'd suggest selling it to a Subaru enthusiast and getting a non turbo car instead. It would be a shame to loose another turbo.

I don't think the Vanagon ever had a horizontally opposed diesel engine. Edit, It came with an inline. I think your best bet would be a 1.9 diesel out of a rabbit, or other small VW cars. I won't bolt in and the fab would have to get creative, and I'm pretty sure the top of your engine will be sticking out of your hood.

Try PB Blaster and patience, works 100% of the time 60% of the time.

Not with a turbo they're not. I'd even worry with a 2.5 if you're using a 2.2 or a 1.8 harness

May not be your timing pulleys. Right before one of my pulleys let go half way between Seattle and Michigan it felt like I had adjustable timing, seemed like every 10 miles or so I lost 20 horsepower, and then gained it back after a few more miles. It was really weird.

Its not the belts, its the pulleys that get ruined by water.

In Michigan I had USMB

Bump, the info is good and it seems a lot of people are thinking about this right now.

What timing belt did you end up using?

Find the part that isn't venting and fix it? Probably the filler neck.

Search Red Devil? you'll find it to be more of a pain/issue than its worth, he's on engine 6 maybe 7, and he actually knows what he's doing.

Overheating, especially in these swaps can be common if you really flog your car and is a sign that the radiator isn't radiating enough heat fast enough to keep up with the engine. By putting in a lower temp, 10 degrees? you just delay the inevitable. Look at the stock radiator on a Legacy and you'll see that the entire thing is covered with 2 large fans. If the same amount of CFM is not used on your swap you will surely overheat.

Its normal, not to worry It was not without reason he was banned, nuttier than squirrel poop

I'm not 100% but there may be an anti siphon valve in the fill hose that is stuck shut, I've seen it happen on fords

If you have no heat you have no coolant. Put the front wheels up on jack stands and open the bleeder and the radiator cap and run the engine with the heater on. Add fluid until the coolant that bubbles out is warm. If the radiator never gets not the thermostat never opened and you only filled it half way. Could also be that it has a blown head gasket, clogged hose or muddy radiator.

An intake and air filter assembly will run you 150-250, and will probably net you 3hp, and that will mostly come from the fact you now have a clean air filter. Exhaust manifold, 300-500, will probably get you 5-10hp, and that's being optimistic. Reground cams will give you the most bang for your buck, around 300, and the increase in HP will be 10-20 depending on grind, add to it a good exhaust and you might be pushing 25 more horse over stock, and that is being very, very optimistic. A basic tune up and a seafoam treatment would be the best place to start, if your plugs, wires or filters are not performing at their best you're loosing HP. There is no magic bullet that will give you an extra 100hp for $20, a 20 year old engine design doesn't have much aftermarket support, unless happenstance allows you to use newer engine parts on the older engine, or is extremely popular (VW aircooled anyone?) Cheap, Fast, Reliable, pick any two, you'll never get all three at once.

The VW guys also had the bar set much lower from the factory, and have aftermarket support. Why reinvent the wheel when you can drop in an EJ, fuel injection runs circles around carbs any day of the week.