NoahDL88

Stickers, and I pulled out the Yota:banana: Should cover everything.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation. I'm with the clutch croud as well, check for fluid levels in both the engine and the tranny, and if they are within the lines and you are not still making smoke, i wouldn't worry too much

Age has nothing to do with it, height somewhat, but the big determining factor is weight, the airbags are tested to work within preset parameters of a 95th percentile man, 300 lbs and a 5th percentile female, 110 lbs anything higher, and you might check out 24 hour fitness after you see your doctor, anything less, you should sit in the back.

Umm, you might shoot him an email, or call him, you'll get the most accurate answer, and i won't charge you a 15% middle man fee

There will not be tables at each site, but there is an area IIRC that has tables for us to use.

<=== airbag expert I'd put her in back.

Huzzah, i'm glad i bought a car from a company with progressive ideas. There's a lot worse groups to be targeting for advertisements, Hezbollah, NRA, NAMBLA

John, let me know when you get all settled in, then i'm coming up to visit.

be sure to clean the IAC, idle air control real good, when it gets sticky it will stall the motor, symptoms include a searching idle from around 400 up to 1200 ish.

IIRC, the rods and pistons are forged stock, so i wouldn't worry too much. Its the head gaskets that you'll have to worry about

Incorrect Even if your state does not test, if the cop that pulls you over wants to be a wongleflute, he can inspect your emissions systems and make sure you have all applicable bits. In Michigan, which will probably be the last state to ever have emissions, you are still required to have all emissions equipment on the car, at least for 10 years from manufacture, i believe. Just cause they don't test, dosen't mean you can legally take the bits off. could you get away with it, probably.

We should have a few with a CB, i have to mount mine, but i got the radio ready, just the antenna needs to go up. Ch 5 or 2 depending. I'll probably be on 5 unless others want 2 instead.

Whats really funny about all this, is that my materials book, when describing stainless steel, says specifically not to use it in areas where extreme temperature variations are common.

I left em, cause its no harder to leave them on then it is to take them off.

Yeah, i hear that, mine split where the two pipes come together. I'd caution welding, its stainless steel, and that seems to be harder to weld, and when you do weld it, its prone to stress fracture, hmm, sounds like its not a good metal to make exhausts out of. If i ever meet a borla employee, i'm gonna sucker punch him.

there really is no way to make the EA-81 you have MPFI unless you swap heads and manifolds, with all the assorted wiring and stuff. At that point, it would be just as easy to drop in the EJ22 and with that you get an additional 45 horsepower, so it should be a no brainer.

If you rebuild the motor, make sure your cam pullys are on the right side, if there not you won't get any spark. go through the pinpoint tests in the manual, that should help you track down bad components if there are any.

Depends on the location, but there were a few that i was able to punch through the sheet metal behind the captive nut, and run a smaller bolt with its own nut on the inside of the car, not the best, or the safest, but it got the job done.

you're gonna need an axle and a hub, along with bearings probably on the side thats affected. shouldn't be too bad, although when you're done make sure that the 36mm nut on the end of the axle is good and tight, which could have been one of the causes of a stripped hub. You can probably go junkyard on the hub, for all the parts actually, but it wouldn't hurt to have a "new" axle for the peace of mind.

No compression, sounds like a head gasket issue, if you're running on 3 cylinders that would certainly make it run rough. Did you try a wet compression check? could one of your valves be sticking? I'll assume that this is your MPFI GL-10 turbo yeah? the more info you give us, the more help we can be.

Don't really care too much what kind, and enough to share with you, i'm not an alcoholic, i think. or Mt Dew would do fine too, that seems to be the international subie libation of choice.

I can only offer the two options that i can see as an issue, which are the two issues i had when i installed my lift. 1, there are blocks that fit where you put them, but were supposed to be in the places where the blocks you have don't fit. 2, you need to lower the suspension as a whole, by swapping each short bolt with each long bolt, without the blocks, and once the entire end of the car is lowered, then you can install the blocks, and tighten everything up.

As far as the leak, if its not leaving a puddle, i'd just monitor the oil level, and make sure its in the ok range. as far as a lack of high end power, be sure to check your fuel filter, cheap insurance, and when clogged could certainly cause issues at high RPM high load times. also, if your air filter is clogged that would cause issues too. don't waste the money on a K&N though, they actually let more junk into your motor, and don't improve power any more than a sugar pill.

If you provide the parts, we could probably do the job at the WCSS8 (provided the powers that be don't mind wrenching at the fair grounds) in a couple of hours, and i'd do it for some beer, if we do it "right" and have to open the brake lines, it'll take a bit longer, and it'll have to be good beer, but certainly do-able. Dibs on the old front shocks/struts, i need some to finish the 5 lug swap, and blown out shocks aren't a concern for me.

last post was over a year ago, i think he's got it figured out by now