NoahDL88

the dealership or the junk yard may be a good place to start :cool:

I've taken the last few saturdays off, and i need to take another one for the MSF class, so the boss is getting a little short with my continuous saturdays off. Maybe we can set up a November HP weekend at Evan's Creek, i should have the 5 lug swap done, along with a skid plate.

The GL one bolts right on, and you get a thicker wheel, real nice, the wiring you have to get a bit creative on, but its quite simple really.

Teach those kids early that illegal drag racing is fun

auto and stick starters are different

Subaru's have crazy low wheel torque, i think the EA-82's were close to 52 foot pounds. if you over torque them, they tend to warp the rotors.

can we make it the 8th? i'd love to go, but i can't keep asking for saturdays off

I'm coming down again tonight, i need the pass side front caliper off the legacy I've said it before, and i'll say it again, i came for the Subies, and i stayed for the friends. how many car message board buddies go to each others weddings for goodness sake?

Have you checked voltage to the coil? and spark from the coil?

I've been using coat hangar with good results, i just throw a few in the back of the car before i hit the trails. They also work pretty good holding up exhaust when you're pulling out a toyota

If you go with the 5 bolt, you're limited to the XT-6 rear caliper, but in the front you can go big with the impreza knuckle, which will let you run the WRX front calipers, i believe, but that may be more than you want to spend. Cross drilling and slotted rotors are for real racers, you'll never need them on the street, and besides, pads don't gas as much as they did anyway. Unless you are going for bling, then by all means, bling away.

An all season is a mediocre tire at best, what i'd reccomend is to get a second set of tires/wheels that are a dedicated winter tire, you'll be much happier with them in the winter, and you can switch back to your regular tire in the summer. Probably not the answer you were going for Others could probably help you more, i'm running super swampers, an offroad tire, so my tire needs are much different than yours. Welcome to the board.

I'm a seasoned mechanic, and i say if shifting your auto makes you happy, then do it. Gosh, i wish i was 18 and knew everything

I've been driving with mine locked for about 10 months, i'll never look back, offroad it can't be beat, and on long trips, or in months where there isn't an offroad event, i'll just pull the axle in about 10 minutes. 100% better than an open diff

Even with the big motor, you're still gonna want a "real" low range. My plan, if i can get the time/money/parts, is to get the RX center diff lock, 1.59 low range, 4.11 final drive all in one nice package

Sorry to hijack, but its a quick ride over to spokane on the bike, i could come try and help with your conversion, although, you may ask Tex if i'm worth it, his 3 week swap took me 6 months.

www.perfectpower.com Its a piggyback chip, Zap's running one in his imp, better tuneability of the fuel map which gives him better power and fuel econ.

Hope you don't really want low end torque, cause with exhaust that big your gonna loose it.

There was no EZ22

The differnce between your F250 and the subaru is also about 4 liters of displacement. Lifting a rig will affect MPG, as the frontal area is increased as the vehicle is raised, because there is more drag underneath the car, not everyone has the SMT6

the headers are worth about 20 bucks, tops, Borla can't seem to make a subaru header that won't crack to save its life. and their million mile warranty isn't transfered to you, so when it brakes in the middle of winter with the snow all around, you'll be up a creek without a paddle. Avoid borla headers like the plague, mine cracked within 3 months, they completely seperated into two pieces. Borla if you're listening, make better parts, cause a million mile warranty means wongleflute if i have to replace the part every oil change.

The pully will only save you maybe .25 pounds, so that would be a whopping .5 hp, at the crank, which would be nothing at the wheels. I hate to be the bad guy here, but you're starting with a car that has 72 horsepower, there is nothing that you can do to it, short of ponying up real money, to make it perform decent. Do a tune up, get good NGK plugs, the 1.49 dollar ones, there the best, gap em to .045 inch, which is a little bit more than the stock specs, get new wires, rotor and disty cap, and advance your timing to around 12 degrees BTDC, add a aftermarket ignition coil and you should have a more peppy feeling rig. When you're ready to spend real money, you can throw on a weber, which when tuned right will make your low end responce feel a lot better than stock. Good free flowing exhaust will help also, but a complete set from head to tail will be pricey, the aircraft guys go with 1 5/8ths from the head, and once they merge they go with 1 7/8ths, it maintains good driveability off idle but helps with top end. After all that, which will cost somewhere between 800-1200 bucks, you might top out at 90-100 horse power, and that is if the carb is tuned real well. The lightened pulley is the least of your problems.

If it has 2 exhaust ports per head, its an early 95 or older, if its got the single ports it is newer, and is an interferance valve design.

the 4spd seems to have enough problems with big tires and a stock EA-81, the 5 speed is essentially the same as the later legacy stuff as far as strength goes, at least thats what i've been lead to believe, if you're pushing 200 hp, and if you are, i would assume you're gonna be using an EJ, i'd reccomend just using the dual range EJ tranny you have over there, or at the very least the 5mt dual range in the EA-82's if you need a true 4wd.

Whoa, step back, put the 36 mm nut back on, unless you are changing rotors, which i assume you aren't. There is a 14mm bolt on the rear of the caliper, and after you pull that one the caliper will rotate up out of the way of the brake pads. Very Important Don't just push the piston back into the caliper, it must be spun clockwise, either with the proper tool, or with pliers. be sure to relieve the pressure in the system by pulling the master cylinder cap off. If you don't finish it all in one night, don't leave the cap off overnight, water will get in and you won't stop as well. Now, if the "back right side" is the rear caliper on the back axles, there are two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper on, once they've been removed you can just pull off the pads, or if necessary pry them out with a prybar/screwdriver.